M O D E R N I S T C U I S I N E 5 · Plated-Dish Recipes M O D E R N I S T C U I S I N E The Art and Science of Cooking Nathan Myhrvold Chris Young with Maxime Bilet and Photography by Ryan Matthe\N Smith Nathan Myhrvold and Copyright © 20 II by The Cooking Lab, LLC All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any 1 means, or stored in a database or retrieval system without the prior written permission 1 of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective owners. The Cooking Lab 3150 !39th Ave SE Bellevue, WA 98005 \Vww.modernistcuisine.com ISBN: 978-0-9827610-0-7 First edition 2011 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request Printed in China Modernist Cuisine The Art and Science of Cooking Volume 5 P l a t e d - D i s h R e c i p e s The Cooking Lab FOREWORD BY FERRAN ADRIA viii FOREWORD BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL ix OUR CULINARY JOURNEYS VOLUME!: HISTORY AND FUNDAMENTALS CHAPTER 1: HISTORY 2 Origins of Cooking ...................................................... 6 Evolution and Revolution ......................................... 14 The Seeds of Modernism .......................................... 33 The Modernist Revolution ....................................... 52 The Story of this Book .............................................. 83 About the Recipes ..................................................... 93 CHAPTER 2: MICROBIOLOGY FOR COOKS 102 Microbes as Germs .................................................. 106 Foodborne lllness .................................................... 110 Parasitic Worms ....................................................... 120 Protists ..................................................................... 126 Bacteria .................................................................... 130 Bacterial Growth ..................................................... 142 Bacterial Death ........................................................ 148 Viruses ...................................................................... 152 Prions ....................................................................... 156 CHAPTER 3: FOOD SAFETY 162 The Complex Origins of Food Safety Rules .......... 166 Common Misconceptions ...................................... 174 Understanding the FDA Rule Book ....................... 182 Simplifying Food Safety with Science ................... 190 Hygiene .................................................................... 196 CHAPTER 4: FOOD AND HEALTH 208 Dietary Systems ....................................................... 214 Medical Dietary Systems ........................................ 222 Nonmedical Dietary Systems ................................. 240 Modernist Ingredients ............................................ 250 CHAPTER 5: HEAT AND ENERGY 260 The Nature of Heat and Temperature .................... 264 Energy, Power, and Efficiency ................................ 272 Heat in Motion ........................................................ 277 CHAPTER 6: THE PHYSICS OF FOOD AND WATER 292 Water is Strange Stuff.. ............................................ 296 The Energy of Changing States .............................. 300 Freezing and Melting .............................................. 304 Vaporization and Condensation ............................. 314 Sublimation and Deposition ................................... 326 Water as a Solvent.. .................................................. 330 Water Quality and Purity ........................................ 335 Page references of the form 4·381 refer to volume 4, page 381 VOLUME2: TECHNIQUES AND EQUIPMENT CHAPTER 7: TRADITIONAL COOKING 2 Grilling ......................................................................... 7 Broiling ...................................................................... 18 Roasting ..................................................................... 28 Panfrying a Ia Plallcha ............................................... 37 Sauteing ...................................................................... 44 Stir-Frying .................................................................. 48 Covered Sauteing ....................................................... 58 Boiling ........................................................................ 63 Steaming ..................................................................... 70 Canning ...................................................................... 75 Pot-Roasting and Stewing ......................................... 93 Baking ....................................................................... 101 Cooking in Oil ......................................................... 115 Smoking ................................................................... 132 CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 150 Cooking with Moist Air .......................................... 154 Cooking with Microwaves ...................................... 182 CHAPTER 9: COOKING SOUS VIDE 192 Why So us Vide' ...................................................... 198 Packaging Food for So us Vide ................................ 208 Sous Vide Equipment.. ............................................ 228 Strategies for Cooking So us Vide ........................... 242 Strategies for Chilling and Reheating .................... 252 Blanching and Searing for So us Vide ..................... 267 CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 280 Extracting Flavors ................................................... 288 Infusing Essences .................................................... 318 Juicing ...................................................................... 332 Filtering .................................................................... 351 Concentrate! ............................................................ 379 Cutting 'Em Down to Size ...................................... 398 Drying ...................................................................... 428 Cryogenic Freezing and Carbonating .................... 456 VOLUME3: ANIMALS AND PLANTS CHAPTER 11: MEAT AND SEAFOOD 2 How Muscle Works ..................................................... 6 Converting Muscle into Meat.. ................................. 32 Cutting ....................................................................... 44 Cooking Meat and Seafood ....................................... 70 Cooking Skin and Innards ...................................... 116 Salting and Drying .................................................. 152 Marinating ............................................................... 190 Smoking ................................................................... 208 Restructuring ........................................................... 220 CHAPTER 12: PLANT FOODS 258 Plants as Food .......................................................... 262 Cooking Sous Vide .................................................. 286 Pressure-Cooking .................................................... 298 Microwaving ............................................................ 310 Frying ....................................................................... 314 Preserving ................................................................ 344 Modifying Textures ................................................. 374 VOLUME4: INGREDIENTS AND PREPARATIONS CHAPTER 13: THICKENERS 2 How Thickening Works ............................................ 12 Strategies for Thickening .......................................... 14 Starches ...................................................................... 20 Hydrocolloids ............................................................ 38 CHAPTER 14: GELS 64 How Gelling Works ................................................... 70 Egg Gels ..................................................................... 74 Dairy and Tofu Gels ................................................ 102 Gelling with Hydrocolloids .................................... 124 Fluid Gels ................................................................. 176 Spherification .......................................................... 184 CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 196 How Emulsification Works ..................................... 200 Methods of Emulsifying ......................................... 206 Modernist Emulsions .............................................. 214 CHAPTER 16: FOAMS 240 How Foams Work .................................................... 244 Forming Foams ........................................................ 252 CHAPTER 17: WINE 316 What Makes a Great Wine ...................................... 322 Tasting Wine ............................................................ 334 CHAPTER 18: COFFEE 354 From Cherry to Bean .............................................. 358 Brewing .................................................................... 364 Espresso ................................................................... 372 The Art of Milk and Coffee .................................... 391 Achieving Consistency ............................................ 396 VOLUME 5: PLATED-DISH RECIPES ABOUT THE RECIPES viii CHAPTER 19: TENDER CUTS 2 Beef Rib Steak Mushroom Swiss Burger Autumn Harvest Pork Roast Rack of Lamb with Garlic Blanquette de Veau Choucroute Royale