The Project Gutenberg eBook, Mission Furniture, by H. H. Windsor This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Mission Furniture How to Make It, Part 2 Author: H. H. Windsor Release Date: December 25, 2007 [eBook #23991] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION FURNITURE*** E-text prepared by K. Nordquist, Ross Wilburn, and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) MISSION FURNITURE HOW TO MAKE IT PART TWO POPULAR MECHANICS HANDBOOKS CHICAGO POPULAR MECHANICS COMPANY Copyrighted, 1910 By H. H. WINDSOR This book is one of the series of handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Co. Like the magazine, these books are "written so you can understand it," and are intended to furnish information on mechanical subjects at a price within the reach of all. The texts and illustrations have been prepared expressly for this Handbook Series, by experts; are up-to-date, and have been revised by the editor of Popular Mechanics. The dimensions given in the stock list contained in the description of each piece of furniture illustrated in this book call for material mill-planed, sanded and cut to length. If the workman desires to have a complete home-made article, allowance must be made in the dimensions for planing and squaring the pieces. S-4-S and S-2-S are abbreviations for surface four sides and surface two sides. Contents List of Illustrations AN OAK BUFFET, 5 OAK STAIN, 9 A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK, 10 A ROCKING CHAIR, 14 A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR, 18 A PLATE RACK, 21 TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES, 23 A MAGAZINE TABLE, 24 A WASTE PAPER BASKET, 27 AN OAK WRITING DESK, 29 AN OAK COUCH WITH CUSHIONS, 33 ELECTRIC SHADE FOR THE DINING ROOM, 37 HOW TO BEND WOOD, 40 A SMOKING STAND, 43 A CHINA CLOSET, 47 A LEATHER-COVERED FOOTSTOOL, 50 ARTS-CRAFTS MANTEL CLOCK, 52 A MUSIC STAND, 55 MAKING SCREWS HOLD IN THE END, 58 A WALL CASE WITH A MIRROR DOOR, 59 A SIDE CHAIR, 62 AN ARM CHAIR, 66 A BOOKCASE, 70 A LAMP STAND, 73 AN EXTENSION DINING TABLE, 77 AN OAK-BOUND CEDAR CHEST, 79 A TOOL FOR MAKING MORTISES, 84 A DRESSER FOR CHILD'S PLAYROOM, 85 CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW, 90 ARTS AND CRAFTS OIL LAMP, 91 ANOTHER CHINA CLOSET, 94 AN OAK BEDSTEAD, 99 AN OAK FOOTSTOOL, 101 A LIBRARY SET IN PYRO-CARVING, 105 A GRILLE WITH PEDESTALS TO MATCH, 107 A LADY'S WRITING DESK, 108 A TELEPHONE STAND AND STOOL, 112 HOW TO MAKE A DOWEL-CUTTING TOOL, 115 A MEDICINE CABINET, 1216 List of Illustrations Finished Buffet, 5 Details of Buffet, 5 Hall Clock Complete, 11 Details of Hall Clock, 11 Rocking Chair Complete, 15 Details of Rocking Chair, 15 Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back, 19 Details of Curved Back Arm Chair, 19 Parts Held Together by Keys, 22 Details of Plate Rack, 23 Marking Bore Holes for Dowels, 24 Table Complete, 25 Details of Magazine Table, 27 Waste Paper Basket, 27 Details of Waste Paper Basket, 29 Detail of Writing Desk, 29 Writing Desk Complete, 31 Couch Complete, 34 Details of Mission Couch, 35 Details of Shade, 38 Electric Shade Complete, 39 STEAMING BOX, 41 HOSE ATTACHED TO TEAKETTLE, 41 FORM BLOCKS, 41 Smoking Stand Details, 43 Finished Smoking Stand, 43 Details of China Closet, 47 China Closet Complete, 49 Footstool Leather Covered, 51 Details of Footstool, 52 Mantel Clock with Wood and Copper Front, 53 Details of Mantel Clock, 54 Details of Music Stand, 55 Music Stand Complete, 55 Making Screws Hold, 58 Wall Case Details, 60 Case with Mirror Door, 61 Side Chair Complete, 63 Details of Side Chair, 64 Arm Chair Complete, 67 Details of Chair, 68 Completed Bookcase, 70 Details of Bookcase, 70 Details of Lamp Stand, 74 Electric Lamp Stand Complete, 75 Extension Dining Table Complete, 77 Details of Dining Table, 77 Details of Cedar Chest, 79 Cedar Chest Complete, 83 Boring Holes for Tenons, 84 Details of Dresser, 85 Dresser Complete, 88 DRAWER CONSTRUCTION, 89 Sawing Tenons, 91 Artistic Mission Style Oil Lamp, 91 Bronze Shade Holder, 91 China Closet with Latticework Doors and Sides, 96 Details of China Closet, 96 Oak Bedstead Complete, 99 Details of Oak Bedstead, 101 Details of Footstool, 103 Footstool Complete, 103 Table and Seat Decorated in Pyro-Carving, 105 Grille for an Arch, 107 Details of Writing Desk, 109 Desk Complete, 110 Stand and Stool Complete, 112 Details of Stand and Stool, 112 Easy Way to Make Dowels, 116 Medicine Cabinet Complete, 116 Details of Medicine Cabinet, 117 AN OAK BUFFET Finished Buffet Details of Buffet The accompanying sketch and detail drawing show a design of a buffet wherein refinement of outline and harmony of details are conspicuously regarded. Quarter-sawed oak is the most suitable wood for this handsome piece of mission furniture. The material should be ordered from the mill ready cut to length, squared and sanded. Following is a list of the stock needed: 2 back posts, 2 by 2 by 47-3/4 in. [Pg 7] 2 front posts, 2 by 2 by 45-1/2 in. 4 rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 50-1/2 in. 2 end rails, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in. 4 end rails, 3/4 by 4 by 18-1/2 in. 4 pieces for end panel, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21 in. 2 panels, 3/8 by 12 by 21 in. 1 top board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in. 1 back board, 3/4 by 11-1/2 by 47-1/4 in. 1 shelf board, 3/4 by 2 by 46 in. 2 brackets, 1 by 2 by 7-3/4 in. 4 pieces for doors, 3/4 by 4 by 11 in. 2 panels, 3/8 by 11 by 17-1/2 in. 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 8 by 22-1/2 in. 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7-1/2 by 22-1/2 in. 1 piece for drawer, 3/4 by 7 by 22-1/2 in. 2 pieces, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. 2 pieces, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. 2 pieces, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. 1 piece, 1/2 by 8 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. 1 piece, 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. 1 piece, 1/2 by 7 by 19-1/4 in.; soft wood. 1 bottom board, 3/4 by 17-1/2 by 47-1/4 in.; soft wood. 2 partitions (several pieces), 3/4 by 20 by 24-3/4 in. 2 front pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 23 in. 2 back pieces. 3/4 by 2 by 23 in.; soft wood. 2 side pieces, 3/4 by 2 by 21-1/2 in.; soft wood. 1 back (several pieces), 3/8 by 25 by 46 in. 1 mirror frame (to suit mirror). Start to work on the four posts by squaring them up to the proper length in pairs and beveling the tops as shown. Clamp all four pieces on a flat surface with the bottom ends even, then lay out the mortises for the rails and panels on all four pieces at once with a try-square. This insures getting the mortises all the same height. The back posts also have a mortise cut in them at the top for the back board as shown. Lay out the tenons on the ends of the front and back rails in the same manner. Cut them to fit the mortises in the posts, also rabbet the back rails for the backing. Cut tenons on the end rails and rabbet them and the side pieces for the panels. Lay out the top and bottom boards to the proper size and notch the corners to fit about the posts. These boards are fastened to the 1-1/2-in. square rails with dowels and glue. They can now be glued together and set away to dry. The top board is of oak, and be sure to get the best side up, while the bottom one can be made of soft wood if desired. The partitions are made of several boards glued together. Be careful to get an oak board on the outer edge. The drawer slides are set into the partitions as shown and are fastened in place with screws from the inside. The top back board has a tenon on each end that fits into the mortises in the back posts and is rounded at the top as shown. The shelf is also rounded at the ends and is fastened to the back with screws. A plate glass mirror should be provided for the back. This is fitted to the back board as shown, then the brackets put up at the ends of the mirror frame. The main parts are now ready to be assembled and glued together. Before applying any glue, see that all the joints fit together perfectly. The end rails and the panels are glued together first and allowed to dry. Be very careful to get the parts clamped together perfectly square and straight, else you will have trouble later on. When these ends are dry slip them on the tenons on the front and back rails which are already fastened to the top and bottom boards. The back board and the partitions must be in place when this is done. Pin and glue the joints and clamp the whole together square and leave to dry. The doors are now made by mortising the top and bottom pieces to take the 3/8-in. panel which is glued in place. The drawers are made as shown in the sketch. The front board should be oak, but the remainder can be made of soft wood. The joints are nailed and glued. Suitable hinges for the doors and handles for the drawers should be provided. Antique copper trimmings look very well with this style of furniture and can be secured at most any hardware store. The back is made of soft wood and is put on in the usual manner. Scrape all surplus glue from about the joints, as stain will not take where there is any glue. Finish smooth with fine sandpaper, then apply the stain you like best. This can be any one of the many mission stains supplied by the trade for this purpose. [Pg 8] [Pg 9] OAK STAIN An easy and at the same time a good way to stain oak in imitation of the fumed effect, is to boil catechu in the proportion of 1/4 lb. to 6 lb. of water, after which cool and strain. Apply this to the wood, and when dry treat with a solution of bichromate of potash in the same proportion as with the catechu. Bichromate of potash alone in water will give a good stain. A solution of 2 oz. of pearl ash and 2 oz. of potash mixed in a quart of water makes a good stain. Potash solution darkens the wood, and when applied very strong will produce an almost ebon hue, due to what we might describe as the burning of the wood fiber. A PLAIN OAK HALL CLOCK The hall clock shown in the illustration should be made of plain oak. The following pieces will be needed to make it: 2 back posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 81 in., S-4-S. 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 21 in., S-4-S. 2 front posts, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 44 in., S-4-S. 10 front and back horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 15 in., S-4-S. 10 side horizontals, 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 by 11 in., S-4-S. 1 face, 3/8 by 14 by 14 in., S-4-S. FRONT DOORS 4 rails, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 18 in., S-4-S. 4 stiles, 3/4 by 1-1/2 by 12 in., S-4-S. 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 11 in., S-4-S. 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 11 in., S-4-S. 4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 15 in., S-4-S. 2 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 15 in., S-4-S. BACK 1 piece, 3/8 by 14 by 21 in., S-4-S. 2 pieces, 3/8 by 14 by 18 in., S-4-S. 4 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S. 4 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 20 in., S-4-S. TOP SIDE PANELS 2 pieces, 3/8 by 9-1/2 by 14 in., S-4-S. 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. 6 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 14 in., S-4-S. 2 middle side panels, 3/4 by 9-1/2 by 20 in., S-2-S. LOWER SIDE PANELS 8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 18 in., S-4-S. 8 vertical mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 18 in., S-4-S. 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 3/4 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. 8 horizontal mullions, 3/16 by 5/8 by 9-1/2 in., S-4-S. If the worker will take the trouble to combine the different lengths of pieces having like thicknesses and widths into pieces of standard lengths, he will be able to save himself some expense at the mill with no more work for himself. Begin work by shaping the ends of the posts as indicated in the drawing. Lay out and cut the mortises for the tenons of the horizontals or rails. These mortises need not be deep if the joints are to be reinforced later with lag screws as is the clock shown. They may be what are known as stub tenons and mortises. The tenons are not more than 1/2 in. long, just enough to keep the rail from turning about. Next lay out and cut the tenons on the rails. Bore the holes for the lag screws, being careful to bore on adjacent surfaces so that the holes will miss each other. Use a 3/8 by 3-in. lag screw, boring the hole in the tenon with a 1/4-in. bit the full depth the screw is to enter. The side panels should be fitted into grooves in the rails, and before the frame is put together these panels should be squared up and the grooves cut in the rails and posts at the proper places. [Pg 10] [Pg 11] Hall Clock Complete Details of Hall Clock [Pg 12] The mullions of the lower side panels, it will be noted, are specified 5/8 and 3/4 in. wide. The 5/8-in. pieces are for the central parts of the frame and the others for the outside. The frame is to be made 1/8 in. larger all around than the distance between the posts and between the rails so that it may be set in grooves cut in the posts and the rails to a similar depth, 1/8 in. This is true, also, of the mullions of the front doors. Square up the shelves so that they may be set into grooves in the adjacent rails. The middle shelf is to have an overhang and will rest upon the rails. The mullions of the top side panels are all of the same width, and it is not intended or necessary to set their frame into grooves in the posts. The wood panel back of them gives ample strength. It is a good plan not to groove the panel upon which the figures are placed, and which becomes the face of the clock. It is better to fit this piece in and fasten metal or wood buttons on the back side so that it can be readily taken off to get at the clock movement from the front. Make the doors, tenoning the rails into the stiles and grooving both to receive the mullioned framework of 3/16-in. stuff. Put the whole frame together, using good hot glue for the joints. When the glue has dried sufficiently to allow the clamps to be taken off, fit the doors and hinge them. Butterfly surface hinges look well and are the easiest to apply. Thoroughly scrape all the surplus glue off and sandpaper the parts preparatory to applying the finish. To finish, apply one coat of mission oak water stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, using No. 00 paper. Apply a second coat, diluted with an equal amount of water. Sand this lightly and put on a very thin coat of shellac to keep the filler color, which follows, from discoloring the high lights. When the shellac has had time to harden, sand lightly and put on a coat of paste filler. Use light filler, colored with umber and Venetian red in the proportion of 12 oz, of umber, and 4 oz. of red to 20 lb. of filler. The directions for applying the filler will be found on the can labels. On the hardened filler apply a thin coat of shellac. Sand the shellac lightly and put on several coats of some good floor wax, polishing well according to the directions on the can. This is what is known as a mission oak finish and is quite popular for this type of furniture design. The metal figures for the dial come with the clock movement. Some of the movements come already set in boxes of wood so that all one needs to do is to shape the projecting ends of the wood containing boxes and fasten them to the frame with screws from the back. A clock with dial figures, eight-day movement, striking the hours and half hours, with cathedral gong can be bought for $4, possibly less. A ROCKING CHAIR In furniture construction such as this, nothing is gained by trying to plane up the stock out of the rough. This is mere drudgery and can be more cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by machinery. There will be plenty to do to cut and fit all the different parts. Order the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered to the sizes specified below. Plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely and is appropriate. Some people like quartered white oak better, however. The cost is about the same. The stock for the chair is as follows: Widths and thicknesses are specified exact except for the rear posts and the rockers; but to the lengths enough surplus stock has been added to allow for squaring the ends. 2 front posts, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 22-1/2 in., S-4-S. 2 back posts, 1-5/8 by 11 by 40 in., S-2-S. 1 front horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 22 in., S-4-S. 1 back horizontal, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. 2 back horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. 2 side horizontals, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. 2 back slats, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 20 in., S-4-S. 2 arms, 1 by 4-1/2 by 25 in., S-2-S. 1 rocker, 2-1/4 by 6 by 33 in., S-2-S. 5 bottom slats, 3/4 by 2-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. [Pg 13] [Pg 14] [Pg 15] Rocking Chair Complete Details of Rocking Chair Begin work on the posts first. The front posts should have one end of each squared, after which they can be cut to the exact length. The rear posts, according to the stock bill, are specified for the exact thickness. By exercising forethought, both may be got from the piece ordered. The tops and bottoms of the posts should have their edges slightly chamfered to prevent their slivering. The shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary, but the drawing indicates quite clearly how it is cut. The arm is fastened to the posts by means of dowels and glue after the other parts of the chair have been put together. Now prepare the curved parts of the back. These parts are worked to size, after which they are thoroughly steamed and bent in the forms described on another page. These forms should have a surface curve whose radius is 22 in. While the parts are drying out, go ahead with the cutting of the mortises and tenons of post and rail. Inasmuch as the width of the front of the chair exceeds that of the back by 2 in., allowance must be made for slant either in the tenons of the side rails or in the mortises. This will necessitate the use of the bevel in laying off the shoulders of the tenons. The slats for the bottom are made long enough so that their ends may be "let into" the front and back rails, a 3/4-in. [Pg 16] [Pg 17] groove being plowed to receive them. Assemble the back, then the front; and when the glue on them has dried, put the side rails in place, then the arms. The chair should now be scraped and sandpapered preparatory to applying the finish. The cushion shown in the picture is made of Spanish roan skin leather and is filled with elastic felt. Such cushions can be purchased at the upholsterer's or they can be made by the craftsman himself. Frequently the two parts of the cushion are laced together by means of leather thongs. A CURVED BACK ARM CHAIR The arm chair, the picture and drawing of which is given herewith is a companion piece to the rocker described on another page. With the exception of the back-legs the stock bill which follows gives the thicknesses and widths exact. To the length, however, enough has been added to allow squaring up the ends. Plain sawed white or red oak will be suitable for a design such as this. Front posts, 2 pieces, 1-5/8 by 2-1/4 by 26 in., S-4-S. Back posts, 1 piece, 1-5/8 by 8 by 45 in., S-2-S. Front horizontals, 2 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 21-1/2 in., S-4-S. Rear horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/4 in., S-4-S. Side horizontals, 4 pieces, 3/4 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. Back slats, 2 pieces, 5/16 by 3-1/2 by 19-1/2 in., S-4-S. Arms, 2 pieces, 1-1/8 by 4 by 24 in., S-4-S. Seat slats, 5 pieces, 1/2 by 2-1/4 by 20 in., S-4-S. Begin work by squaring up the ends of the front posts and shaping the rear ones Chamfer the ends of the tops and bottoms slightly so that they shall not splinter through usage. Next lay out the mortises and tenons. The curved horizontals for the back should now be prepared and steamed as described on another page. The curved form to which the steamed piece is to be clamped to give shape to it should be curved slightly more than is wanted in the piece, as the piece when released will tend to straighten a little. The arms of the chair may be shaped while these pieces are drying on the forms. The rails of the front and back may be tenoned, too. It should be noted that the front of the chair is wider than the back. This will necessitate care in mortising and tenoning the side rails so as to get good fits for the shoulders The bevel square will be needed in laying out the shoulders of the tenons. [Pg 18] [Pg 19] Arm Chair Having Bent-Wood Back Details of Curved Back Arm Chair Assemble the back, then the front. When the glue has hardened on these parts so that the clamps may be removed, put in the side rails or horizontals and again adjust the clamps. The arms are to be fastened to the posts with dowels and glue. The seat, it will be seen from the drawing, is to be a loose leather cushion to rest upon slats. These seat slats may be fastened to cleats which have been previously fastened to the inside of the front and back seat rails or they may be "let in" to these rails by grooving their inner surfaces before the rails have been put in place. The latter method is more workmanlike, but more difficult. A cushion such as is shown can be purchased ready made up, or it may be made by the amateur by lacing together two pieces of Spanish leather cut to size and punched along the edges so as to allow a lacing of leather thong. It may be filled with hair or elastic felt such as upholsterers use. [Pg 20] [Pg 21] Probably the simplest finish that can be used is weathered oak. Put on a coat of weather oak oil stain, sandpaper lightly when dry and then put on a very thin coat of shellac. Sand this lightly and follow with two or more coats of floor wax put on in very thin coatings and polished well. A PLATE RACK The plate rack shown in the accompanying illustration is designed for use in a room furnished in mission style. The dimensions may be changed to suit the wall space. The parts are held together entirely by keys. The bar across the front is for keeping the plates from falling out, but this may be left out if the plates are allowed to lean against the wall. The following list of material will be needed, and, if the builder does not care to do the rough work, the stock can be ordered planed, sanded and cut to the exact size of the dimensions given. 2 ends, 7/8 by 5 by 20 in. 1 top, 7/8 by 6 by 36 in. 1 shelf, 7/8 by 5 by 36 in. 1 bar, 7/8 in. square by 36 in. 4 keys. Scrap pieces will do. Lay out and cut the mortises on the end pieces for the tenons of the shelf, also the tenons on the top ends and the diamond shaped openings. In laying these out, work from the back edge of the pieces. Cut the tenons on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises in the end pieces, numbering each one so the parts can be put together with the tenons in the proper mortises. Mark out and cut the mortises in the top to receive the tenons on the end pieces. Parts Held Together by Keys In laying out the mortises for the keys allow a little extra on the side toward the shoulder so the ends and tops may be drawn up tightly when the keys are driven in the mortises. All the mortises and diamond shaped openings should be marked and cut with a chisel from both sides of the board. If the bar is used, it may be attached with a flat side or edge out as shown. [Pg 22] [Pg 23] Details of Plate Rack Finish the pieces separately with any weathered or fumed oak stain. When thoroughly dry, apply a very thin coat of shellac. Finish with two coats of wax. The rack can be attached to the wall by two mirror plates fastened on the back edges of the end pieces. TOOL FOR MARKING DOWEL HOLES On some work it is quite difficult to locate the exact point for a dowel, but with the tool illustrated placed between the joint to be made and the parts gently pressed together you have the exact point for the dowel in each piece. The tool is made from a piece of sheet steel about 1/2 in. square with a pin having a point on both ends driven in the center, as shown in Fig. 1. The tool is placed between the pieces that are to be joined, as shown in Fig. 2. The small pin will mark the point for the bit in both pieces exactly opposite. Marking Bore Holes for Dowels A MAGAZINE TABLE This little magazine table will be found a very useful piece of furniture for the den or library. Its small size permits it to be set anywhere in a room without being in the way. Quarter-sawed oak should be used in its construction, and the following pieces will be needed: 4 legs, 2 by 2 by 29 in., S-4-S. 4 end slats, 1/2 by 2 by 10 in., S-4-S. 1 shelf, 1 by 16 by 30 in., S- [Pg 24] 1-S. 1 top board, 1 by 18 by 36 in., S-1-S. If you are convenient to a planing mill you can secure these pieces ready cut to length, squared and sanded. This will save you considerable labor. The four legs are finished on all sides and chamfered at the bottom to prevent the corners from splitting. The mortises for the shelf should be cut 9 in. from the top of each leg, as shown in the sketch. Care should be taken to make these a perfect fit. Table Complete The shelf should be finished on the top side and the four edges, and the corners cut out to fit the mortises in the table legs. An enlarged view of this joint is shown in the sketch. The top board may have to be made of two 9-in. boards, dove-tailed and glued together. It should be finished on the top side and the edges. The edges can be beveled if desired. The board is fastened to the legs by means of screws through four small brass angles. These angles can be made or they can be purchased at any hardware store. Details of Magazine Table The top board and the shelf should be mortised at each end for the 1/2 by 2-in. slats. These slats should be finished on all sides. The table is now ready to be assembled and glued together. The glue should dry at least 24 hours before the clamps are removed. [Pg 25] [Pg 26] [Pg 27] After the glue is dry, carefully go over the entire table with fine sandpaper and remove all surplus glue and rough spots. It can now be finished in any one of the mission stains which are supplied by the trade for this purpose. A WASTE PAPER BASKET A waste paper basket of pleasing design, and very easy to construct, is shown in the accompanying sketch. Quarter- sawed oak is the best wood to use, and it is also the easiest to obtain. The following pieces will be needed: 1 bottom piece, 3/4 by 9 in. square. 4 corner pieces, 3/4 in. square by 15-1/2 in. 4 top rails, 3/4 in. square by 7-1/2 in. 12 slats, 1/4 by 3/4 by 16-1/4 in. 4 blocks, 1 in. square. 4 F.H. screws, 2-1/2 in. long. 24 R.H. screws, 3/4 in. long. A WASTE PAPER BASKET If the pieces are ordered from the mill cut to length, squared and sanded, much labor will be saved. First bevel the ends of the corner posts and the slats, as shown, and finish them with sandpaper. Bore the holes in the posts and the railing for the dowel pins. These pins should be about 3/8 in. in diameter and 3/4 in. long. When this is done the parts can be glued together and laid aside to dry. The four blocks 1 in. square are for the feet. Bore holes through these blocks and the corners of the bottom board for the large screws to go through. Fasten them together by running the screws through the blocks, and the board into the ends of the corner posts as shown in the sketch. The 1/4-in. slats can now be fastened on with the small round-headed screws. They should be evenly spaced on the four sides. This completes the basket except for the finish. This can be any one of the many finishes supplied by the trade for this purpose. [Pg 28]