Memories in Translation Memories in Translation A Life between the Lines of Arabic Literature Denys Johnson-Davies With a foreword by Naguib Mahfouz The American University in Cairo Press Cairo New York To Paola who, beside much else, has provided most of the photographs Copyright © 2006 by The American University in Cairo Press 113 Sharia Kasr el Aini, Cairo, Egypt 420 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10018 www.aucpress.com All rights reserved. Except for brief quotations in a review, this book, or any part thereof, may not be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Dar el Kutub No. 2841/05 ISBN 978 161 797 243 0 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 14 13 12 11 10 09 Printed in Egypt Foreword by Naguib Mahfouz It is really good to be translated and to be read both nationally and internationally … something great! Denys Johnson-Davies, whom I have known and admired since 1945, was the first person to translate my work—a short story—and he has since translated several books of mine, so I owe him a special debt of gratitude. In fact, he has done more than anybody to translate modern Arabic fiction into English and promote it. He has always sought out interesting new writers and worked hard not only to translate their novels, plays, short stories, and poetry but to find publishers for the translations too. We have both advanced a few years since Denys translated that first short story of mine, and now is a good time for him to look back over a long and distinguished career, and to tell the story of how he came to be the leading English translator of modern Arabic writing, and of some of the writers he came to know along the way. I am very pleased that Denys has written this most interesting book, and I wish the reader as much pleasure in reading the book as I have had in knowing its author for sixty years. 1 An unlikely set of circumstances set me on the path to studying Arabic. Having spent a childhood firstly in Cairo, then in Wadi Haifa in Sudan, and finally in Uganda and Kenya, I went back to England on doctor’s orders alone at the age of twelve, following a bout of amebic dysentery. Several months later my parents joined me, and after passing an entrance exam I soon experienced the unpleasant taste of boarding at a minor public school. It had been decided that I should study classics, and I was quickly twenty-third in a class of twenty-five. I had found that both Latin and Greek held few joys for me and that, furthermore, I found them extremely difficult—as well as basically uninteresting, because no one, it seemed, spoke them. Aged fourteen, I was expected to take my matriculation exams in the summer, though my reports had indicated that I was unlikely to pass and would have to spend the following year in the same class. School provided little pleasure and a certain amount of pain, caning being practiced freely. The thought of having a further four or so years of this heartless routine appalled me. Even sports provided no respite, rugby being played in icy conditions—I never got used to England’s climate—while cricket bored me except for the short periods when I was batting. Only two activities helped to rescue me from total tedium: the first was that palm-aching game known as fives, which I learned at the school and at which represented the under-sixteens. This meant that every now and again I would escape through the gates and be taken to play at some other school, which invariably meant having an excellent tea and cakes after the match had been played. The one snag about the game is that it is played between four walls, with one’s hands—inadequately clothed in special gloves—and a small, hard ball. My hands inevitably became bruised and could be protected only through placing slivers of raw beef inside the gloves. The other game at which I showed some prowess was squash. I had played it before going to the school, my mother having put out the money for me to have lessons from a professional. Thus, despite my age, I was suddenly the champion of the school. But this happy state of affairs ended when—because the two squash courts were continually booked, and a number of the older boys were unable to find an empty court—a rule was posted up that the courts were only to be available for boys over the age of sixteen. When I informed my parents of this I was surprised to find my father, who had no interest in sport, waxing indignant at the thought that his son should be prevented from playing the game at which he excelled. Taking me back to school the next term, he went to see the headmaster with the idea of having me made an exception to the new rule. The headmaster, however, declared himself unable to make any exceptions: a rule was a rule. My father, already disappointed at my poor showing in Latin and Greek and at the fact that I would be required to repeat the year, presented the headmaster with an ultimatum: either his son would be allowed to play squash or he would be taken away from school. The headmaster rather pertinently asked what my father proposed to do with me if I was withdrawn—but my father answered that that was his business. And so at the age of fourteen I found that something I hadn’t even dared dream about had occurred: I was to be removed from school. My father then asked me what would I now like to do. “I would like to study Arabic,” I was heard to reply immediately, as though the thought had been brewing in my mind for some time. In fact, no such thought had ever occurred to me—and little did I know at that time that the Arabic I would study was, like Latin and Greek, a classical language, with an even more developed grammar. Though as a child in Wadi Halfa, growing up with Sudanese children, I had spoken fluent Arabic, I had long forgotten every word—as a child one learns a language quickly but forgets it with equal ease. I suppose I had felt that my father would be pleased at such a suggestion, for he had himself started off at university studying Hebrew, Aramaic, and Syriac before the war intervened and he changed to law. In fact, my father—the son of an impecunious parson—had succeeded in getting to Cambridge only by learning while at school that a scholarship in Hebrew existed that would earn him a place at the university. With little more than a knowledge of the alphabet, he had been the only candidate for the scholarship, and was awarded it. But my situation was not that simple. My father had put himself in a difficult position, as it would not now be easy to find me a place in some other school. Before making any further decisions about my future, it was essential that I now got seriously down to work in order to pass the examination for which the school had predicted I needed another full year. The only solution was for me to work hard at a crammer’s in Birmingham (where we then lived) until the summer, when I could go up to Cambridge to take the examination known as Little-Go. Success in this exam would entitle me to go to a place at St. Catharine’s, my father’s old college. And so, aware of the risk my father had taken in removing me from school at such an early age. I devoted myself to preparing for the dreaded examination. When I went to Cambridge with my father to take the examination, we stayed at his old college. A boy still not fifteen, I found myself among young men three and four years older, who were due to go up to the university the following September. My few days taking the exam were not without incident: on the very first morning, being in a highly nervous state, I found myself unable to unbolt the door on the lavatory, and eventually got out only by climbing through the narrow gap at the top of the door—I thus sat down several minutes late for the first paper! Though I passed the exam, the college told my father that I could not be admitted to go up at the age of fifteen. Exceptionally, however, I would be given a place at sixteen. Special arrangements were therefore made for me to spend a year at the School of Oriental Studies in London before going on to Cambridge. As for the summer, it was decided that I should go to Cairo, where it was thought I could at least learn the Arabic alphabet. Arrangements were made for me to stay with an Egyptian who had been a lecturer at the School of Oriental Studies. I suppose, having returned from East Africa to England on my own at the age of twelve, I wasn’t daunted by the prospect of going out to Egypt on my own. The person in whose flat I was to stay—his name was Abdul Raziq—lived in an area called Sakakini, not one of Cairo’s more elite districts. Little of it remains in my mind except the address at which I had stayed. During the intervening years between then and now I had been curious to go back and see the place, and only last year it suddenly occurred to me to suggest to my friend Said al-Kafrawi that we drive there. He happened to know the district, but assured me that no street by the name I mentioned existed. However, my memory of some sixty-five years proved to be right, and a house was found to be still intact at 12, Sharia Sa’id. Sakakini had little to attract me, so almost daily I would take the tram to central Cairo, where I would sit around in the cafés and watch the world pass by. One of my few memories of those times was my embarrassment at boarding a tram, witlessly seating myself in a compartment reserved for women, and being ignominiously escorted out by the ticket collector. One night in Sakakini I woke up to a sound of crepitation, and found that my bed was alive with cockroaches. Despite the protests of my host that my father had arranged for me to be there for the length of my stay in Cairo, I took myself off to the Pension Suisse in downtown Antikkhana, where I would at least be near Groppi’s and the other cafés I frequented. As it happened it was a good move, in that I made friends with a young Yorkshireman by the name of Wilf Smithson, who lived in the same pension and took pity on the lonely English boy who had suddenly appeared there. Some ten years older than myself, he was the Middle East representative of a pharmaceutical firm that produced Nivea cream. Wilf possessed a car and knew the city well. We went horse-riding several times out at the Pyramids, and would often spend the evening at one of the city’s open- air summer cinemas. After a successful life as a businessman in various parts of the world, he retired to Geneva, where he acquired Swiss nationality. In my many wanderings I would often pass through Geneva and stay with Wilf and his wife Frances, while they sometimes stayed with me at my seaside house in Salobrena, south of Granada. It was there, some fifty years later, that I first noticed a change in his behavior, as he became a victim to Alzheimer’s disease. One of my saddest memories is of seeing him in his flat in Geneva demanding angrily of Frances about me: “Who’s this person who’s sitting around the flat all the time?” Whereas my stay in Cairo was enjoyable enough, my copy of Thatcher’s Arabic Grammar remained scarcely opened. I had tried my hand rather unsuccessfully at the alphabet and had read with dread about the case endings, the unwritten short vowels, the dual number, the subjunctive and jussive moods, and the almost infinite variety of irregular noun plurals. Time enough for all that. I thought, when I got to university. The School of Oriental Studies at that time was housed in an old building in Vandon Street in Victoria. It required the Second World War to persuade the powers-that-be that eastern languages were worth encouraging, and a fine new building was later made available in Bloomsbury for what was renamed the School of Oriental and African Studies. Such fellow students as I had consisted for the most part of foreigners: among them was the Egyptian sheikh Abdul Aziz al-Maraghi; a professor from Valetta University called Joseph Aqualina, who wrote poetry and befriended me: America’s present leading Arabist Bernard Lewis, who is said to advise George W. Bush and his colleagues: an Iraqi called al-Douri; and several Indians. There were also other students studying Sanskrit, for instance, and Tibetan. Most of them seemed to be postgraduate students, and the total student population seemed to number no more than a few dozen. Being some ten years younger than anyone else, I was sadly out of things; also, there seemed to be no classes for beginners in Arabic, though eventually a certain Sheikh Mohamed Mahmoud Gomaa (who was later to be a colleague at the ) BBC introduced me to the intricacies of Arabic grammar, while somebody else showed me how much easier an Indo-European language like Persian was than Semitic Arabic. During most of my time in London I stayed in a small flat in Dolphin Square, a large block that had recently been erected in Pimlico on the Thames. There were several hundred flats in the block, and the main feature that interested me were the several squash courts, with their own professional and his assistant. I still recollect that the professional’s name was Tom Land; his young assistant was generally accompanied by a greyhound. Several times I went with him of an evening to one of the stadiums to see the dog race. He knew many of the other owners and trainers, and I would sometimes risk the odd few shillings on a race —watching dog races, which are over in a matter of seconds, is less boring when one is betting on one of the dogs. I remember once when my friend’s dog seemed to be winning, a man in the audience threw down a cushion in exasperation among the runners, and the race was declared null and void. I suffered from loneliness during my time in London, for my fellow students were all much older than myself, and I knew no one else; weekends were especially difficult. I would often go down to the courts and watch people play or would eagerly await a call from Tom Land to tell me that somebody wanted to have a game and was looking for someone to play with: was I free? Much of the time I spent reading, and I remember particularly the effect that a volume of the collected stories of D.H. Lawrence had on me—heady stuff for a fifteen- year-old. Sometimes my father would have to come down to London on business from Birmingham and would join me in the flat. We invariably went out to dinner at a steak house and then on to one of the music halls that were the vogue in those days and which my father enjoyed. On going up to Cambridge the following year, I was ill-equipped for reading such texts as the Kamil of al-Mubarrad and various extracts from the Qur’an. I was also horrified to learn that it had been decided that for my second language I should study Hebrew rather than Persian. Used to getting my own way in most