Mechanisms of fl at weaving technology © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organization in textiles, clothing and foot- wear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognize achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, the Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with the Textile Institute. 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To enquire about contributing to our Textiles series, please send your name, contact address and details of the topic/s you are interested in to [email protected]. We look forward to hearing from you. The team responsible for publishing this book: Commissioning Editor: Kathryn Picking Project Editor: Francis Dodds Editorial and Production Manager: Mary Campbell Production Editor: Adam Hooper Project Manager: Newgen Knowledge Works Pvt Ltd Copyeditor: Newgen Knowledge Works Pvt Ltd Proofreader: Newgen Knowledge Works Pvt Ltd Cover Designer: Terry Callanan © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles: Number 144 Mechanisms of fl at weaving technology Valeriy V. Choogin, Palitha Bandara and Elena V. Chepelyuk Oxford Cambridge Philadelphia New Delhi © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with the Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, 80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com www.woodheadpublishingonline.com Woodhead Publishing, 1518 Walnut Street, Suite 1100, Philadelphia, PA 19102–3406, USA Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, 303 Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India www.woodheadpublishingindia.com First published 2013, Woodhead Publishing Limited © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013. The publishers have made every effort to ensure that permission for copyright material has been obtained by authors wishing to use such material. The authors and the publishers will be glad to hear from any copyright holder it has not been possible to contact. The authors have asserted their moral rights. 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Typeset by Newgen Knowledge Works Pvt Ltd, Chennai, India Printed by MPG Printgroup, UK © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 Contents Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles ix Preface xv Note for students using this book xix 1 Introduction: classifi cation and mechanisms of weaving machines 1 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Classifi cation of weaving machines 2 1.3 Basic mechanisms of the weaving machine 4 1.4 Elastic system of fabric formation (ESFF) 5 1.5 Advantages and disadvantages of different weaving machines 15 1.6 Questions for self-assessment 15 1.7 References 16 2 Mechanisms of the weaving machine for warp release and warp tension control 17 2.1 Introduction: mechanisms of the weaving machine for warp release and warp tension control 17 2.2 Warp brakes 20 2.3 Warp regulators 24 2.4 Condition of the equilibrium of the mechanism of a moving back-rest 34 2.5 Stabilization of the mode of release and the tensioning of warp threads 35 2.6 Comparative analysis of brakes and regulators 36 2.7 Questions for self-assessment 37 2.8 References 39 3 Warp shedding in weaving: parameters and devices 40 3.1 Introduction: parameters of the shed 40 3.2 Elongation of warp threads in shedding 44 v © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 vi Contents 3.3 The classifi cation of shedding devices 49 3.4 Tappet shedding 49 3.5 Dobbies 54 3.6 The Jacquard machine 58 3.7 Comparative analysis of shedding devices 61 3.8 Questions for self-assessment 62 3.9 References 63 4 The supply of weft on the weaving machine 64 4.1 Introduction: the supply of weft on the weaving machine 64 4.2 Gauges for detecting the presence of weft on shuttle weaving machines 65 4.3 Battery type weft supply 67 4.4 Mechanisms for changing pirns 69 4.5 Safety devices of automatic pirn change 71 4.6 Change of hollow pirns 71 4.7 Change of shuttles 72 4.8 Multishuttle mechanisms 72 4.9 Weft supply on shuttleless weaving machines 76 4.10 Devices for measuring and control of weft tension 78 4.11 Questions for self-assessment 81 4.12 References 82 5 Weft insertion 83 5.1 Introduction: methods of weft insertion 83 5.2 Continuous insertion of weft by shuttle 88 5.3 Weft insertion by microshuttle 89 5.4 Weft insertion by projectile 92 5.5 Weft insertion by rapiers 95 5.6 Weft insertion by air and water jets 100 5.7 Pneumatic-rapier weft insertion 103 5.8 Weft insertion by an electromagnetic drive 106 5.9 Weft insertion by the inertial method 106 5.10 Comparative analysis of different methods of weft insertion 106 5.11 Questions for self-assessment 107 5.12 References 108 6 Woven fabric formation: principles and methods 1 09 6.1 Introduction: woven fabric formation 109 6.2 Fabric-forming mechanisms 112 6.3 Formation of the woven fabric cell 114 6.4 Parameters of woven fabric formation 116 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 Contents vii 6.5 Ring temples 121 6.6 Methods of easing of fabric formation 122 6.7 Comparative analysis of the methods of fabric forming 123 6.8 Questions for self-assessment 123 6.9 References 124 7 Mechanisms for woven fabric take-up 125 7.1 Introduction: mechanisms for woven fabric take-up 125 7.2 Winding woven fabric on the cloth beam 131 7.3 Comparative analysis of methods of woven fabric take-up 132 7.4 Questions for self-assessment 133 7.5 References 134 8 Safety devices on weaving machines 135 8.1 Introduction: safety devices on weaving machines 135 8.2 Weft controllers 137 8.3 Devices for prevention of warp thread breakage 142 8.4 Comparative analysis of safety devices 144 8.5 Questions for self-assessment 144 8.6 References 144 9 Weaving machine drives: mechanisms and types 145 9.1 Introduction: the weaving machine drive 145 9.2 Mechanisms for driving the main shaft of a weaving machine 146 9.3 Weaving machine brakes 148 9.4 Combined start-up and braking mechanisms 149 9.5 Comparative analysis of different loom drives 149 9.6 Questions for self-assessment 150 9.7 References 150 10 Weaving machine parameters for specifi c woven fabric structures 151 10.1 Introduction: the normalization process for weaving operations 151 10.2 Estimating drawing-in parameters for a weaving machine 153 10.3 Setting up parameters for the machine–yarn–fabric path (MYFP) on weaving machines 155 10.4 Verifi cation of parameters for the elastic system of fabric formation (ESFF) and machine–yarn–fabric path (MYFP) on weaving machines 156 10.5 Evaluating warp thread tension by oscillogram analysis 157 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 viii Contents 10.6 Coordination of weaving cycles 165 10.7 Factors affecting the productivity of weaving machines 166 10.8 Comparing operating conditions for natural and synthetic fi bres 168 10.9 Questions for self-assessment 169 10.10 References 170 11 Control of woven fabric quality: defects and quality assurance of grey fabrics 171 11.1 Introduction: the quality control of woven fabric 171 11.2 Defects in grey fabric 172 11.3 Quality assurance of grey fabric 174 11.4 Equipment for the control of woven fabric quality 175 11.5 Questions for self-assessment 177 11.6 References 178 12 Movement of raw materials and fi nished fabrics in weaving manufacture 179 12.1 Introduction: product transportation in weaving manufacture 179 12.2 Transportation of raw materials and outputs 179 12.3 Questions for self-assessment 181 12.4 References 181 Appendix 1: Further reading on weaving technology 183 Appendix 2: Glossary of terms applied to weaving machines and weaving technology 185 Index 205 © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles 1 Watson’s textile design and colour (Seventh edition) Edited by Z. Grosicki 2 Watson’s advanced textile design Edited by Z. Grosicki 3 Weaving (Second edition) P. R. Lord and M. H. Mohamed 4 Handbook of textile fi bres. Volume 1: Natural fi bres J. Gordon Cook 5 Handbook of textile fi bres. Volume 2: Man-made fi bres J. Gordon Cook 6 Recycling textile and plastic waste Edited by A. R. Horrocks 7 New fi bers (Second edition) T. Hongu and G. O. Phillips 8 Atlas of fi bre fracture and damage to textiles (Second edition) J. W. S. Hearle, B. Lomas and W. D. Cooke 9 Ecotextile ‘98 Edited by A. R. Horrocks 10 Physical testing of textiles B. P. Saville 11 Geometric symmetry in patterns and tilings C. E. Horne 12 Handbook of technical textiles Edited by A. R. Horrocks and S. C. Anand 13 Textiles in automotive engineering W. Fung and J. M. Hardcastle 14 Handbook of textile design J. Wilson 15 High-performance fi bres Edited by J. W. S. Hearle 16 Knitting technology (Third edition) D. J. Spencer 17 Medical textiles Edited by S. C. Anand 18 Regenerated cellulose fi bres Edited by C. Woodings 19 Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fi bres Edited by R. R. Franck 20 Smart fi bres, fabrics and clothing Edited by X. M. Tao 21 Yarn texturing technology J. W. S. Hearle, L. Hollick and D. K. Wilson 22 Encyclopedia of textile fi nishing H-K. Rouette 23 Coated and laminated textiles W. Fung ix © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013 x Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles 24 Fancy yarns R. H. Gong and R. M. Wright 25 Wool: Science and technology Edited by W. S. Simpson and G. Crawshaw 26 Dictionary of textile fi nishing H-K. Rouette 27 Environmental impact of textiles K. Slater 28 Handbook of yarn production P. R. Lord 29 Textile processing with enzymes Edited by A. Cavaco-Paulo and G. Gübitz 30 The China and Hong Kong denim industry Y. Li, L. Yao and K. W. Yeung 31 The World Trade Organization and international denim trading Y. Li, Y. Shen, L. Yao and E. Newton 32 Chemical fi nishing of textiles W. D. Schindler and P. J. Hauser 33 Clothing appearance and fi t J. Fan, W. Yu and L. Hunter 34 Handbook of fi bre rope technology H. A. McKenna, J. W. S. Hearle and N. O’Hear 35 Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics J. Hu 36 Synthetic fi bres: Nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyolefi n Edited by J. E. McIntyre 37 Woollen and worsted woven fabric design E. G. Gilligan 38 Analytical electrochemistry in textiles P. Westbroek, G. Priniotakis and P. Kiekens 39 Bast and other plant fi bres R. R. Franck 40 Chemical testing of textiles Edited by Q. Fan 41 Design and manufacture of textile composites Edited by A. C. Long 42 Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand Edited by H. M. Behery 43 New millennium fi bers T. Hongu, M. Takigami and G. O. Phillips 44 Textiles for protection Edited by R. A. Scott 45 Textiles in sport Edited by R. Shishoo 46 Wearable electronics and photonics Edited by X. M. Tao 47 Biodegradable and sustainable fi bres Edited by R. S. Blackburn 48 Medical textiles and biomaterials for healthcare Edited by S. C. Anand, M. Miraftab, S. Rajendran and J. F. Kennedy 49 Total colour management in textiles Edited by J. Xin 50 Recycling in textiles Edited by Y. Wang 51 Clothing biosensory engineering Y. Li and A. S. W. Wong 52 Biomechanical engineering of textiles and clothing Edited by Y. Li and D. X-Q. Dai 53 Digital printing of textiles Edited by H. Ujiie © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2013