Stories and Recipes from an Uncommon Life in the Country by Suvir Saran with Raquel Pelzel and Charlie Burd Photographs by Ben Fink Dedication There are a number of beings—human and animal—to whom I dedicate this book. To Nana (my maternal grandfather, Chaman Lal Bhardwaj) and Michael Batter-berry, two grand men, who lived separated by seas and continents but who lived lives quite similar in the brilliance of their content, the richness of their thoughts, and the ideas and inspiration that they left behind for countless many. My most supportive and loving influencers, I wish you new chapters of your lives and souls that are just as rich, or richer still. How blessed I am to have been gifted by your presence. To Karun Deep Sagar, my nephew, who I hope will continue to enrich and better this grand world that Nana and Michael have left behind. Your destiny I shall never see, but I know it will be full of riches, some waiting to be discovered, others better because you have already found them. The farm is as much yours as ours. Enjoy it for what it is, a symbol of life everlasting. To Charlie, Seema, and Ajit—three pillars of strength that I have had on my side, always. Charlie, thanks for your constant and epic partnership. Thanks also for always having my life organized so that I can keep sharing and learning every day from my travels through this land and others. Seema and Ajit, thanks for being siblings and elders—all at once. I am blessed, what more can I say? To Kali, beloved cat of many memorable years, who never allowed a moment to pass without making her presence known, and to Simba, who deeply mourned Kali’s passing but consoled us with his acute desire to cuddle and hug. Kali, you were the ultimate gourmand who enjoyed Battenkill Valley Creamery milk every bit as much as we do. No other milk was ever good enough. To the blue heron that was here, picking a fish from the pond every time we came to see the house before we bought it—an early omen for me that this was the farm we wanted. We are lucky she comes back daily. And to all the other lives, big and small, that inhabit the farm today, and shall tomorrow: This farm is more yours than it is ours. Your presence makes us feel blessed. Your joy is ours doubled. Your safety our mission. May you always prosper and keep our home and lives enriched by your presence. Table of Contents Foreword INTRODUCTION: City Boys, Country Masala CHAPTER ONE: SPRING Anticipation, Patience, and Delicious Rewards Goat Cheese and Herb Frittata Cauliflower, Chèvre, And Onion Quiche Farm Yarn: Goat’s Milk Surprise Scratch Bean Salad with Basil and Roasted Peppers Pasta Primavera Asparagus And Green Pea Risotto With Fresh Herb Tarka Farmhouse Crispy-Creamy Potatoes Warm Egg Salad on Croissants with Country Bacon and Arugula Farm Yarn: Drop-Ins Welcome! Maryann’s Stuffed Grape Leaves Thin-Crust Pizza Margherita Charlie’s Herby Marinara Summerfield Farm’s Lamb Pastrami Farm Yarn: The Courthouse Community Garden Ginger-Soy Fresh Ham with Roasted Garlic Banana-Caramel Pudding Spiced Rhubarb Jam Rhubarb and Raspberry Cobbler with Crème Fraîche Almost-Flourless Caramel-Lacquered Chocolate-Peanut Torte CHAPTER TWO: SUMMER Sweet Corn, Snap Peas, and a Steady Stream of New Faces Deviled Eggs with Cilantro, Chiles, and Spices Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes, Onions, and Herbs Grandma Mae’s Biscuits Farm Yarn: Teaching Kids to Eat Well Country Salad with Five Vinaigrette Variations Ginger and Shoyu Vinaigrette North Country Balsamic Vinaigrette Summer Tisane Vinaigrette Tangy Buttermilk-Tarragon Dressing Southeast Asian Dressing Cabbage Slaw with Fresh Herbs and Peanuts Chunky Eggplant Dip Simple Marinated Peppers Summer Tomato Pie Farm Yarn: Trading County Fair for Country Fare Penne with Popped Tomatoes and Bacon Farm Yarn: A Proud Pantry Shrimp and Sweet Corn Curry Salt-Roasted Whole Trout Garam Masala Roast Chicken Juicy Turkey-Cheddar Burgers Strawberries-and-Cream Ice Cream Farm Yarn: Battenkill Valley Creamery Seasonal Jam Farm Yarn: u-pick, u-share CHAPTER THREE: FALL Embracing Autumnal Transitions and Traditions Chai Cider Arvest Apple-Craisin Chutney Bread Pakoras Farm Yarn: The Weed We Grew to Love French Onion Soup Peanut Chaat Chaat Fries “I Can’t Believe It’s Not Meat” Ragu Over Fettuccine Farro and Mushroom Burgers Peanut Fried Chicken Farm Yarn: The Battenkill Kitchen Herbed Pheasant Breasts with Spiced Pomegranate Reduction Braised Kid Shanks and Lentils Farm Yarn: Love is in the Air Spicy Pulled Pork Shirred Eggs with Pulled Pork Rabbit Stew with Porcini and Picholines Farm Yarn: Lock, Stock, and Two Smoking Barrels Autumn Pear and Cranberry Cobbler Apple Upside-Down Cake Farm Yarn: apples galore Rustic Double Apple Tart Cognac-Cured Fruitcake Upstate Apple Butter CHAPTER FOUR: WINTER A Rekindling of Community Old-Fashioned Eggnog Farm Yarn: eBay for Eggs Farmhouse Chai Butternut Squash Chaat Butternut Squash, Apple, and Cranberry Gratin Sweet and Sour Butternut Squash Roasted Manchurian Cauliflower Farm Yarn: Goose Number 1,263 Sally’s Veggie Dumplings with Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce Shortcut Potato and Pea Turnovers Country Rabbit Terrine with Pistachios and Pernod Rustic Rabbit Pâté with Juniper Berries New Year’s Black-Eyed Pea Curry Farm Yarn: The Three Faces Of Curry Birbal Kee Khitcheree Tamarind Chicken Wings Farm Yarn: The Birds of American Masala Farm Kerala Egg Roast Veal Chops with Mustard-Herb Sauce Masala Chateaubriand Candy Cane Kisses Cranberry and Dried Strawberry Free-Form Galette Chocolate-Nut Brittle Chocolate-Peanut Tart with Caramel and Chocolate Mousse Farmhouse Basics Farmhouse Resources Index About the Author Foreword Because I am a baker, most people assume that sweet things are my passion. In truth, though I love to bake, I’ve always favored the flavor of spice. I was captivated by Indian cuisine more than thirty years ago during a month-long visit to India. It was not in restaurants, however, where I found the best food; it was in the home of friends who had a gifted chef. Mealtime was the highlight of every day, and it was never the same twice. I learned that Indian food isn’t just about fire and spice; in the hands of a skilled cook, as well as being brilliantly vibrant, it can be a kaleidoscope of complexity, balance, and subtlety. By the end of my stay, it seemed that most other food was bland and uninteresting by comparison. I longed to return to India, not just for the food but also for the exquisite beauty of colors and crafts and the extraordinary warmth of the people. I never expected to encounter all of this right in my own hometown until I met Suvir Saran when I interviewed him for a Food Arts magazine story on sugar. Michael Batterberry, founding editor, suggested that since we are both contributing editors, I should speak to Suvir about the unrefined Indian sugar called jaggery. After our first conversation, we became fast friends; many years later, Michael