ANCIENT TEXTILES SERIES VOL. 13 MAKING TEXTILES IN PRE-ROMAN AND ROMAN TIMES PEOPLE, PLACES, IDENTITIES edited by Margarita Gleba and Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke Oxbow Books Oxford and Oakville Published by Oxbow Books, Oxford, UK © Oxbow Books and the individual authors 2013 Hardback ISBN: 978-1-84217-767-9 E-pub ISBN: 978-1-84217-900-0 Mobi ISBN: 978-1-84217-901-7 PDF ISBN: 978-1-84217-902-4 This book is available direct from Oxbow Books, Oxford UK and The David Brown Book Company PO Box 511, Oakville, CT 06779, USA (Phone: 860-945-9329; Fax: 860-945-9468) or via our website www.oxbowbooks.com A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Making textiles in pre-Roman and Roman times : people, places, identities / edited by Margarita Gleba and Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke. 1 online resource. -- (Ancient textiles series ; vol. 13) Includes bibliographical references and index. Description based on print version record and CIP data provided by publisher; resource not viewed. ISBN 978-1-84217-900-0 (epub) -- ISBN 978-1-84217-901-7 (prc) -- ISBN 978-1-84217-902-4 ( pdf) -- ISBN 978-1-84217-767-9 1. Textile fabrics, Prehistoric--Italy. 2. Textile fabrics, Roman. 3. Textile industry--Italy--History- -To 1500. 4. Textile industry--Rome--History. I. Gleba, Margarita, author, editor of compilation. II. P?szt?kai-Szeoke, Judit, editor of compmilation. GN799.T43 677.00937--dc23 2013039194 Front Cover: Pompeii, house VI 8, 20–21.2, a scene of fuller and clients, fresco now in the Naples Archaeological Museum Ancient Textiles Series Editorial Committee: Eva Andersson Strand, Ulla Mannering, Margarita Gleba and Marie-Louise Nosch, editors Contents Preface by Margarita Gleba ....................................................................................................................v Maps .......................................................................................................................................vii Introduction by John Peter Wild .................................................................................................................xiv 1. Transformations in Textile Production and Exchange in pre-Roman Italy by Margarita Gleba ..............................................................................................................1 2. Textile Making in Central Tyrrhenian Italy – Questions Related to Age, Rank and Status by Sanna Lipkin ..................................................................................................................19 3. Discovering the People behind the Textiles: Iron Age Textile Producers and their Products in Austria by Karina Grömer ...............................................................................................................30 4. Textile Production and Trade in Roman Noricum by Kordula Gostenčnik .......................................................................................................60 5. Craftspeople, Merchants or Clients? The Evidence of Personal Names on the Commercial Lead Tags from Siscia by Ivan Radman-Livaja .....................................................................................................87 6. Female Work and Identity in Roman Textile Production and Trade: A Methodological Discussion by Lena Larsson Lovén ....................................................................................................109 7. Trade, Traders and Guilds (?) in Textiles: the Case of Southern Gaul and Northern Italy (1st–3rd Centuries AD) by Jinyu Liu .....................................................................................................................126 iv Contents 8. Textile Trade in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea by Manuel Albaladejo Vivero ........................................................................................142 9. Textiles and their Merchants in Rome’s Eastern Trade by Kerstin Droß-Krüpe ..................................................................................................149 10. (In)visible Spinners in the Documentary Papyri from Roman Egypt by Sophie Gällnö ............................................................................................................161 11. Textile Production Centres, Products and Merchants in the Roman Province of Asia by Isabella Benda-Weber...............................................................................................171 12. Ulula, Quinquatrus and the Occupational Identity of Fullones in Early Imperial Italy by Miko Flohr ................................................................................................................192 13. A ‘Private’ Felter’s Workshop in the Casa dei Postumii in Pompeii by Jens-Arne Dickmann ................................................................................................208 Index ....................................................................................................................................229 Preface Textile production is an economic necessity that has confronted all societies in the past. Although different cultures have found different solutions to the problem, most have combined production and trade to varying degrees. While most textiles were manufactured at a household level, valued textiles in particular were traded over long distances and this was influenced by raw material supply and costs, labour skills and costs as well as tradition. In the Mediterranean regions, the evidence for textile trade is especially abundant for the Roman times, well documented by the archaeological finds and written sources. Documents such as Periplus Maris Erythraei or Diocletian’s Edict of Prices illustrate the typological and geographical diversity of textile commodities that circulated within and beyond the Roman Empire. They make it possible to identify regional products, to locate production centres and to obtain information on the organisation and infrastructure of production and trade. The present volume originates in a workshop “Work and Identity: The agents of textile production and exchange in the Roman period”, which took place on 7 June 2009 in Hallstatt, Austria. The workshop was organised by Study Group E (Production and Trade) of the international project Clothing and Identities in the Roman World (DressID). The aim of this study group during 2008–2010 was to approach the investigation of textile production and trade in the Roman Empire and beyond its borders by focusing in particular on the identity of the agents involved in these activities, i.e. textile producers, traders and consumers. Some of the questions explored were: who produced and distributed textiles and clothing; how was production organised; what was the social status of the agents involved and could it change during their working life; how did their profession affect personal identity. While most of the articles in this volume originated as papers during the workshop in Hallstatt, several contributions were added during the editing process in order to broaden the scope of the topic (Radman-Livaja, Larsson Lovèn, Gällnö, Dickmann). Furthermore, while the volume focuses on the Roman period, some articles address the issues connected to textile production and trade during the preceding period (Gleba, Lipkin, Grömer). Each essay is a separate chapter with footnotes and bibliography. We have attempted to be consistent, while keeping the individual authors’ styles, including their choice of American or British orthography and punctuation. Our thanks go vi Preface to non-native English speakers for writing in English or having their contributions translated into English. Latin and Greek sources are abbreviated according to The Oxford Classical Dictionary. Other common abbreviations include: AE L’Année épigraphique CIG Corpus Inscriptionum Graecarum CIL Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum ILLPRON Inscriptionum Lapidariarum Latinarum Provinciae Norici ILS H. Dessau, ed., Inscriptiones latinae selectae (1892–1916) IG Inscriptiones Graecae OLD Oxford Latin Dictionary PECS R. Stillwell et al., eds, Princeton Encyclopedia of Classical Sites (Princeton 1976) SEG Supplementum Epigraphicum Graecum TLL Thesaurus Linguae Latinae The workshop and the publication of the present volume were generously funded by the European Education, Audiovisual and Culture Executive Agency’s DressID project and the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research. We also wish to thank the organisers of the DressID meeting in Austria, Karina Grömer and Anton Kern (Natural History Museum in Vienna) for all the logistical support in Hallstatt; Cherine Munkholt (CTR) for her invaluable help with editing; John Peter Wild for writing the introduction to the volume; and Yevgeny Kokorin for creating the maps. Margarita Gleba 10 September 2012 MAPS viii Maps x). e i g a p n o y e k ( 3 1 d n a 2 1 6, 2, 1, s r e t p a h C n d i e n o ti n e m s e t Si y. al t I h t r o N a. I: p a M Maps ix ci ul V 7 3 m) u t n e r r u S Sorrento (TarantoTarquiniaTivoliVeiiVerucchio 1 2 3 4 5 6 333333 a rs 1, 2, 6, 12 and 13. 25 San Giovenale26 San Giuliano27 Sasso di Furbar28 Satricum29 Sibari30 Stabiae e t p a h a s mentioned in C 19 Osteria dell’Os20 Ostia21 Pithekoussai22 Pompeii23 Pontecagnano24 Rome e t y. Si glia nii) ap I: b. South Ital 13 Gabii14 Gravina di Pu15 Herculaneum16 Milan17 Murlo18 Orvieto (Volsi M re)m aeu Cerveteri (CCrustumeriEsteFicanaFiesoleFlorence 7 8 9 10 11 12 o g e r b u S o a hi ss acc AcquaroAquileiaBisenzioBolognaCaracupCastelve 1 2 3 4 5 6