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See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to use this book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 5 Sights Eating r 6 Beaches Drinking 2 3 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Entertainment C 7 Courses Shopping Your planning tool kit T Photos & suggestions to help Tours 8 Information you create the perfect trip. & Transport z Festivals & Events All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd The Italian Lakes Lake Maggiore & Around p86 Lake Como & Around p116 Bergamo, Brescia & Cremona Milan p150 p52 Lake Garda ^# & Around p176 Paula Hardy, Marc Di Duca, Regis St Louis P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to MILAN . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 LAKE MAGGIORE the Italian Lakes . . . . . . . . 4 Neighbourhoods & AROUND . . . . . . . . . 86 The Italian Lakes Map . . . 6 at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Lake Maggiore The Italian Lakes’ Top 14 . . 8 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 West Bank . . . . . . . . . . . .87 Need to Know . . . . . . . . .16 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Stresa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 First Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Arona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . .20 Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 65 Borromean Islands . . . . . . 93 If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Verbania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Month by Month . . . . . . . 23 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 76 Cannobio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Road Trip: Accommodation . . . . . . . 32 Lakes & Mountains . . . .98 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Getting Around . . . . . . . . 34 Lake Maggiore Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Eat & Drink Like a Local . . .37 East Bank . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Day Trips from Milan . . . . . 82 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Laveno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Getting There & Away . . . . 84 Travel with Children . . . . 46 Casalzuigno . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . 85 Regions at a Glance . . . . 49 Santa Caterina del Sasso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Ranco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Angera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 SUSAN WRIGHT / LONELY PLANET © JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET © VVSdCCaeaaaarlnrss eeMtttseiasgeol eslM .ni eo .Rta pne .e r .r . eig .ia . o .iO .o . .ln .o . . . n . . .a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111100003663 & Torba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Lake Orta . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Orta San Giulio . . . . . . . . . 108 PANETTONE, PASTICCERIA VARENNA P139 Locarno MARCHESI, MILAN P71 (Switzerland) . . . . . . . . . 111 Ascona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 MARINADA / SHUTTERSTOCK © ARGALIS / GETTY IMAGES © &CTBTLoreoA irAlamnlKanRoogEgO . io o . .CUl . . . oO . . .N L . . .MD . .a . . . .r .O . .i . .a . . . . n . . . . . .o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111222165857 Lake Como West Bank . . . . . . . . . . .128 Cernobbio . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Moltrasio & Laglio . . . . . . 129 PALAZZO BORROMEO, CAPPELLA COLLEONI, ISOLA BELLA P93 BERGAMO P155 Contents UNDERSTAND Road Trip: Val Cavallina . . . . . . . . . . . 162 The Italian Lakes High into the Hills . . . .130 Lake Iseo & Around . . .163 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212 Argegno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Monte Isola . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Ossuccio & Iseo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Isola Comacina . . . . . . . . . 132 The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Lovere & Bossico . . . . . . . 165 Lenno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Villas & Gardens . . . . . . 233 Valle Camonica . . . . . . . . . 165 Tremezzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Franciacorta . . . . . . . . . . . 166 The Lakes Kitchen . . . .239 Menaggio & Val Menaggio . . . . . . . . . 137 Brescia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 On the Wine Trail . . . . .246 Rezzonico . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Cremona . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Fashion & Design . . . . .248 Gravedona, Lodi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Peglio & Domaso . . . . . . . 138 Lake Como LAKE GARDA & SURVIVAL East Bank . . . . . . . . . . . .138 AROUND . . . . . . . . . . 176 GUIDE Correno Plinio . . . . . . . . . . 138 Lake Garda South Bank . .177 Varenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Sirmione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Valtellina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Lake Garda West Bank . . 181 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .254 Lake Lugano . . . . . . . . . .141 Valtenesi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Lugano Lake Garda North Bank . .187 (Switzerland) . . . . . . . . . . 142 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Riva del Garda . . . . . . . . . 187 Bellinzona . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Lake Garda East Bank . .190 Malcesine . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 279 BERGAMO, BRESCIA Bardolino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 & CREMONA . . . . . . 150 Verona . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Bergamo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Verona’s Road Trip: Wine Country . . . . . . . .200 Castle Circuit . . . . . . . .158 Valpolicella . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Bergamo’s Valleys . . . . .161 Road Trip: Valle Brembana . . . . . . . . 161 Valpolicella Wine Tour . .202 San Pellegrino Terme . . . 161 Soave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Valle Seriana . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Mantua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 SPECIAL FEATURES RLRHRCRV aaooooaiglkaaaasphetddddol s eliTTTT in &crrrrCtiiiie oppppiMlrl ::::act o h uWueitn inH t .aei .l ilTn .so .s u . . r . . . . . . . . . . . . .21139050828 TVTOFahhinlseel aht AhLsio ear&nt kWs eG& . si .an D .Kre .dei Tt .escr .inahg .sine . .l n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222224432346983 246OAvTtSptrieoibnrhfmeog ioeycvtiaereh oerz srdOednaes la t tn(gricwpenomipl8oid aò3anp n)i Pntmera oesd vaseds rstic saenofh iiy uvoli olenhpnly cdr FDaLlwcDy,toaa c ahOh mOrdtlormk ahimCruoaCeteitetnaescG G ean stdIeten e ns ,hers( saerce1owa e pionr9aeolryiuweW-.dtn f r a (D mhaL gw itcecreOarrcho.aneheafrvoaCnrdnoo p ewkarots 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aw.ihigseda Opoy np p V dn t siin worN aVesdratoin l otc whòoeòda aCtdlsOeahtmter hnmeaaro Vfegoo rSe r oolg sennda eelelPPtbwDtl fn(e e( d ali otfrIt o e.ew msda fwm canadeitre mrteatn CehO l,cln w co roavvra eanoral wpcwawdfagatilhenitaieemClinpobsotcatia enennnhyreuddtwwaeesspee easlòasrGsssyhdd’gaayeeeeeeessssrsstt----il..,.,, OgIstyAtchbtsihtfpcpeihCnahflhoahorwheewpteooo aareotlgCieihoIvteitcecneyronnrfniodtimrr hhm cenomence toh ,caf, kwd g t, e ioieatrEtertc5 e atmFabslshlu saiwsaphoeyii slaeu Ltr 0r ,mnnii3e1icp rr rt’ at elantoiredsojrs10aiieeen gh le0reeurtsr onmepyuwsr. meer w go0gsre e3rsf,se Fri pdceawn0 esqisont1idd . ei.tF o nrboi e g o-llds m.j90 uriaTgeoaultrg cugre2na.ninn lwN oa9c inlo0 hrvdcpio2rssirc2eId4 oeegntloeoni0ocndoea’te-mt0lk ta0,s,5n eic rrr whw rf thyosrol1 l% et 0 s se ye .. , 5fn-a -t , On the Wine trail 2OLTrEpò pAvEsE47 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to the Italian Lakes Formed at the end of the last ice age, and a popular holiday spot since Roman times, the Italian Lakes have an enduring, beguiling beauty. Artful Landscapes Living by Design Travellers traversing the Alps wind down Though Italian design is distributed glob- from snowcapped mountains to be greeted ally, seeing it in its home context offers by a Mediterranean burst of colour: gardens a fresh appreciation. From Como’s silk filled with rose-red camellias, hot-pink weavers to Brianza’s furniture makers and oleanders, lemon trees and palms surround- the violin artisans of Cremona, this region ing cerulean blue lakes. It’s impossible not has an outstanding craft heritage. Today to be seduced. Fishing boats bob in tiny Milan is home to all the major design show- harbours, palaces float in the Borromean rooms and an endless round of trade fairs. Gulf and grand belle époque hotels line the But it’s not just insiders who have all the waterfronts in towns such as Stresa, Como, fun. Northern Italian design houses have Bellagio and Salò. No wonder European branched out into spas, bars, galleries and aristocrats, Arab princes and Hollywood restaurants. So why not join them for a celebrities choose to call this home. touch of la vita moda (the stylish life). A Modern Legacy The Lake Lifestyle Since Leonardo da Vinci broke all the rules Home to many of Italy’s foremost musi- in his stunning Last Supper, the indefati- cal talents, writers and artists, Milan and gably inventive Lombards seem to have Verona are on the tour circuit of the best skipped straight from the Renaissance to international music acts, dance troupes, the 21st century. Not only is Milan a treas- opera and theatre. In summer, film, music ure trove of modern and contemporary art, and art festivals abound in city theatres, but art deco and rationalist architecture lakeside gardens and historic villas, while abound. Around the lakes, Michelin-starred at weekends, urbanites escape to the moun- restaurants push the boundaries of tradi- tains and lakes for morning markets, sail- tionalism, and vintners, oil producers and ing, hiking and long afternoon lunches. The textile houses experiment with sustainable key to it all is an unswerving dedication to technologies and techniques. Even now, life’s fine print. jackhammers are hard at work on Milan’s futuristic new skyline modelled by star architects Zaha Hadid, Daniel Libeskind, Arata Isozaki and César Pelli. 5 PHOTOINNOVATION / SHUTTERSTOCK © Why I Love the Italian Lakes By Paula Hardy, Writer From cutting-edge textiles to high-tech olive presses and a sidewalk scene that makes Fash- ion Week seem entirely redundant, Milan and the lakes are both thrilling and fun. Everyone here is fizzing with ideas, ambition and energy, and it’s catching. Unlike nonna’s Italy further south, Lombards, like New Yorkers, are refreshing modernists and natural entrepreneurs. A surprising number of people here care deeply about marrying the region’s craft heritage with modern, sustainable technology. As such, they’re pioneering an exciting and beautiful vision of the future that inspires me. For more about our writers, see p280 Above: Terrace dining in Varenna (p139), overlooking Lake Como Italian Lakes #\ Locarno Sip coffee on the lake’s prettiest promenade (p111) Bellinzona Ramble around Unesco World ValBedVraelttSoambauraco Heritage castles (p147) V z DBrirnèk a innd Lla Sakaken ev iSLeawulvsga aftrnoormoe (Mp1o4n1t)es TocealBavonaValleValLaviz laVSWITZERLAND ValleOnsernonMeaggia Verzasac #]Bellinzona MLezazkoela Centovalli #]Locarno Lake Domodossola#]ValleVigezzo Reserva Como NaPzaiorcnoale LaNgoa#÷tduirPailaeno bBAaordormqrouirmee peeaxaltnarc aIevssal ag(pann9d3ts) BVoarlrGo#÷rmaneadne ^#VMeaLrgbagkaieonriea#\LuinoLugano#]VLauLlgadak'InenotelvBiellagi#\o GVraignlesassina Islands #\ ParcoRegionale e Omegna#\ Str#]esaLavenoCam#÷podeiFiori#\Mendrisio ^#LVeaclTcaoleggio alVl OrtGaiSuLOalairon#\ktaeArIGosionulalai#\oSanComLaaVkLbaeabrikeosee ^#PaVrdaceorleR#÷Pseiengeiotan#\aCleh^#Ciao#\smsCoaonEt#\ùrba Add ValImagna diApiano a MaAlpirepnosrat#– #\Gallarate #\Saronno Dalmine#\ Explore noLrtahkeer nC Iotmalyo's grandest Bus#]to #\Legnano Ces#\ano #\Monza Arsizio Maderno villas and gardens (p116) #]Rho Treviglio#\ Milan ^#NovaraTicin #\Magenta ^# #–LAiinrpaotert o #]Vigevano #] ROAD DISTANCES (km) Lodi Note: Distances Brescia 59 are approximate Como 55 110 ^#Pavia Cremona 98 55 155 Mantua 140 95 225 67 Milan 52 99 52 101 186 Verona 118 73 204 113 45 166 Milan Bergamo Brescia Como Cremona Mantua Milan Gatheirn sapritrisattiico nan (dp 5c2r)eative e# 0 50km 0 25miles Bressanone#] ELEVATION 2500m 2000m 1500m 1000m 500m Franciacorta 200m Track down 100m Italy’s finest fizz (p166) 0 monia ChaLsea kweh Gitea-rcdapaped a C waves on a windsurf (p176) Sondrio^# Val Parco #÷dPeagrclioORreogbiioenale dell'A#÷damello Valtellinesi o alVleBremSabanna Vall#÷eSeraniaBRPaeerrgcgiooanmaalsechOlSleeaVcglailvoeValleCamonica LLeadkreoRGivaa#\rddaelo R#]ERonmojvoaeynrV e oAetproreoernnaaa a (tp t1h9e5) #\Pellegrino ald na ^#Be#–Tregrmameo ValCavallina LIsaekoe ValLvIdaerskLtoeainPkdoaeerlBcl'orAe#÷RlstcoeigGainoanordalae MonteBPRaerMgcoLio#÷onetNnsesaLaileznesiisodainnelaillae #\ SOeriroioal ê#wFriannecrieagcioornta Salò#\ Valle d #\ RdeePlgaS#÷iroecnroiaol ^#BrescDiadeeselGnzaarndoa#\ GL#\#\aaSrCkdioreamlomionbeare VeronaiSqanura ^# to #–Verona- Villafranca #]Crema Villafranca#\ Airport o #÷Parco nci Adda i Sud M r Lake eMezzo ^#Cremona viR ^#Mantua Oglio Cremona Indulge in Cremonese cooking Mantua and classical music (p170) Marvel at Mantegna’s frescoes (p205) Bergamo Admire medieval masterpieces (p151) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 The Italian Lakes’ Top 14