Contents Destination Peru Getting Started Itineraries History The Culture Food & Drink Environment Lima South Coast Arequipa & Canyon Country Lake Titicaca Cuzco & the Sacred Valley Central Highlands North Coast Huaraz & the Cordilleras Northern Highlands Amazon Basin Directory Transportation Health Language Glossary The Authors Behind the Scenes Map Legend Return to beginning of chapter Destination Peru FAST FACTS Population: 28.2 million Median age: 26 years Poverty rate: 54% Gross Domestic Product (GDP): US$131.4 billion Estimated hectares of coca production: 56,000 Rate of inflation: 5.8% Navigable tributaries in the Amazon Basin: 8600km Average daily visitors to Machu Picchu: 2500 Loss of forest area in 2005: 150,000 hectares Native varieties of potato: almost 4000 For a country born of a tumultuous history, Peru has its moments of incredible grace. There is the award-winning literature, the baroque-style architecture, the soulful music and, of course, the food – a sublime combination of ethnic and regional specialties that have spent the last 500 years on a slow simmer and are now ready to be served. Peru, in case you haven’t heard, is in the midst of a buzzing culinary renaissance. Led by a charismatic young chef named Gastón Acurio, the country’s native cuisine is the subject of write-ups in international food magazines. Once regarded as a charmless capital city, Lima is now a bastion of excellent dining. And Peruvian gastronomic festivals – once the purview of a few dedicated food- service types – attract tens of thousands of visitors. La Mistura, a culinary gathering organized by Acurio, drew more than 150,000 people from all over Peru and the world to its second annual convocation in Lima in September of 2009. Thousands more were unable to get in. The relentless focus on food – and it is relentless – has not only generated a great deal of pride among every layer of Peruvian society, it has had a ripple effect on other aspects of the culture. Young fashion designers produce avant- garde clothing lines with alpaca knits. Cutting-edge musical groups fuse elements of regional folk music into mainstream electronica. In the world of architecture, builders are starting to create contemporary structures that pay tribute to pre-Columbian design. In other words, Peru is experiencing a remarkable cultural boom. The country has also experienced a period of unparalleled economic expansion, linked to significant growth in the mining and agricultural sectors. Since 2004, Peru’s gross domestic product has grown steadily, year after year – even in 2008 and 2009, when the global economy was shrinking. The influx of wealth has helped alleviate some of the most extreme cases of poverty and has allowed the administration to improve infrastructure and expand social services. By 2011, the government expects to complete a US$1 billion electrification project, which will improve energy delivery to the southern part of Peru. This represents an incredible turnaround for a nation that was torn apart by a period of protracted internal conflict between the military and various guerrilla groups in the 1980s and ’90s – an episode that left thousands of civilians dead and countless others displaced. Peru has yet to completely emerge from the shadow of that era. For two years beginning in 2007, the nation was riveted by the legal trials of former President Alberto Fujimori. Elected in 1990, in the midst of the conflict, Fujimori, the Lima-born son of Japanese immigrants, cracked down on guerrilla groups, but also tightened his grip on power. Among other things, he staged a coup that filled the legislature with his cronies, reworked the constitution and ran all manner of shady financial and political operations while in office. His presidency ended in 2001, when his security chief was caught on camera bribing just about any official willing to accept a suitcase full of money. The disgraced former president is now serving almost three decades of prison terms for an array of convictions, ranging from embezzlement to bribery to wiretapping to the ordering of extrajudicial killings. But that isn’t the end of Fujimori. It is widely expected that his daughter, Keiko, a congresswomen, will run for the presidency in 2011. She has hinted that if she wins, she will pardon her father. Peru faces other challenges as well. A prolonged global recession could put a quick end to this period of growth. (Economic figures already indicated a slow- down in the export market by the end of 2009 and inflation tripled – to 6% – from 2008 to 2009.) Equally fragile is the political situation. President Alan García, who served a disastrous first term as president in the ’80s (Click here), has seen his approval rating steadily sink since he took office in 2006. In 2008, his entire cabinet was forced to resign due to allegations of corruption. And, in 2009, a clash between various indigenous tribes and the national police – over development rights to extensive tracts of rainforest lands – left almost three dozen dead in the remote northern region of Bagua. These events have left the president with a weakened mandate at a potentially fractious time. Members of the Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) guerrillas have shown renewed (if limited) signs of life in the central highlands around Ayacucho. In the Amazon, the imminent opening of the Interoceanic Highway, connecting Peru to Brazil and running straight through the southern Amazon, could have a negative impact on delicate rainforest ecosystems. And there is still plenty of poverty to contend with: despite the years of growth, one in five Peruvians still lives on less than US$2 a day. To some, the country’s problems might seem insurmountable. But living in Peru – and being Peruvian – has always required just a little bit of defiance. In the 1950s, Peruvian journalist Jorge Donayre Belaúnde penned a lengthy poem to his homeland called ‘Viva el Perú…¡Carajo!’ (Long Live Peru…Damn It!). The verse is an epic, warts-and-all tribute to Peru, depicting life in Andean villages as well as sprawling urban shantytowns. Peruvians, wrote Donayre, aren’t scared off by difficult circumstances – not by cataclysmic earthquakes, nor difficult geography, nor the bad habits of their wily politicians. In the face of adversity, there is an intractable optimism. In the 50-plus years since Donayre first wrote those words, that hasn’t changed one bit. Viva el Perú…¡Carajo! Return to beginning of chapter Getting Started WHEN TO GO COSTS & MONEY TRAVEL LITERATURE INTERNET RESOURCES Return to beginning of chapter Luminous archaeological sites? Check. Lush Amazon rainforest? Check. An arid coast lapped by a highly surfable Pacific swell? Check. Peru, it seems, has it all. Every cranny of this part of the Andes offers a unique glimpse into singular cultures, incredible foods and enough natural wonders to keep a National Geographic cameraman employed for decades. Visit for a week and you can take in a main site or two. Got two? Then join a trekking party, or add another destination to your itinerary. And if you have plenty of time on your hands, strap on a pack and hit the road for months – there’s that much to do. Best of all, transportation is plentiful and generally inexpensive, and accommodations are available to suit every budget, from cheap backpacker hostels to atmospheric colonial mansions. This chapter will help you figure out when to go, what to pack, how much to spend and which places you won’t want to miss. WHEN TO GO A Peruvian weather site (in Spanish) is www.senamhi.gob.pe. Peru’s climate has two main seasons – wet and dry – though the weather varies greatly depending on the region. Temperature is mostly influenced by elevation: the higher you climb, the cooler it becomes. The peak tourist season is from June to August, which coincides with the cooler dry season in the Andean highlands and summer vacation in North America and Europe. This is the best (and busiest) time to go trekking – on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, or anywhere else. It’s also the best time for climbing, hiking and mountain biking. People can and do visit the highlands year-round, though the wettest months of December to March make this a cold and muddy proposition. Plus, during February the Inca Trail is closed for cleanup. Many of the major fiestas (Click here), such as La Virgen de la Candelaria, Carnaval and Semana Santa, occur in the wettest months and continue undiminished even during heavy rainstorms. DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… A passport valid for six months beyond your trip and, if necessary, a visa (Click here). All recommended immunizations (Click here) – make sure any prior vaccinations are up-to-date before setting off. A copy of your travel insurance policy (Click here). An ATM or traveler’s-check card with a four-digit PIN (Click here). Reservations for trekking the Inca Trail (Click here) or, better yet, an alternative route (see boxed text, Click here). A lightweight, wind-resistant waterproof jacket to shield you from the sun and keep you dry. Earplugs – long-distance buses and many hotels enjoy ear-splitting entertainment at all hours. A Swiss Army–style knife – remember to place it in your checked luggage when flying or it will be confiscated. Duct tape – make a mini-roll around a pencil, then use it to repair backpacks, seal shut leaky bottles etc. Toilet paper – essential as public toilets (Click here) and most restaurants don’t supply it. Your sense of adventure. See Climate Charts (Click here) for more information. On the arid coast, Peruvians visit the beaches during summer, from December through March, when the Pacific’s chilly waters warm up. In central and southern Peru, the coast is cloaked in garúa (coastal fog) for much of the rest of the year and temperatures are cool. As a result, southern beaches tend to be deserted during this period. In the far north, the coast usually sees more sun (and the water is warmer), so beach lovers can be found there year-round. In the eastern rainforest, of course, it rains – a lot. The wettest months are December through May. And while it is still possible to travel through the Amazon at this time, it will be slow going, and wildlife-viewing opportunities will be reduced. The best times to go are the drier months of July and August, followed by September, October and November. Return to beginning of chapter COSTS & MONEY HOW MUCH? Local phone call S1.50 Internet café per hour S1-2 Short taxi ride (not in Lima)S3 Double room with bathroom and TV S100 Round-trip flight between most cities from US$150 See also the Lonely Planet Index, inside front cover. Shoestring travelers watching their céntimos – by sleeping in dormitory rooms, traveling on economy buses, eating set menus – can get by on a minimum of US$25 a day. Visitors who prefer private hot showers, à la carte meals in moderately priced restaurants, comfortable buses and occasional flights will find that at least US$60 to US$100 a day should meet their needs. Staying at luxury hotels and dining at top-end restaurants will cost several hundred dollars a day. Prices are always higher if you’re doing your trip by organized tour (Click here). The most expensive cities are Cuzco and Lima. You can stretch your budget by traveling with a partner as double rooms are usually less expensive than two singles (Click here). Hone your bargaining skills – taxi cabs don’t have meters, and drivers routinely overcharge gringos. Hotels often give discounts if you simply ask for their ‘best price’ (el mejor precio) or if you inquire about promotional rates. For top-end places, check the website for special offers. Many restaurants offer filling three-course set lunches for around S7; eating à la carte will triple your bill. Pay with cash rather than credit cards, in order to avoid hefty surcharges. Many Peruvian ATMs dispense local currency (nuevos soles) and US dollars. Above all, keep your money safely stashed – an economical trip can get expensive if you’re pickpocketed! For tips on avoiding theft, Click here. Note to adventurers on a tight budget: hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is expensive. Unguided trips are now illegal (this is strictly enforced) and the cheapest four-day trips start at around US$300 per person, not including equipment rental, tips for the guides and porters, or any incidental expenses, such as bottled water. Plan on spending US$400 if you’re going with a reputable outfitter, Click here. A day trip to Machu Picchu isn’t always cheap either (Click here). For exchange rates, see the inside front cover of this book. For more information on money issues, Click here. Return to beginning of chapter TRAVEL LITERATURE Inca Land: Explorations in the Highlands of Peru, by Hiram Bingham, is the classic traveler’s tale. The book was first published in 1922, a little more than a decade after the American author ‘discovered’ the ancient Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. The White Rock: An Exploration of the Inca Heartland, by Hugh Thomson, describes a filmmaker’s search for hidden archaeological sites throughout the Peruvian Andes and Bolivia. It includes a lot of background on earlier travelers