EYEWITNESS TRAVEL LONDON EYEWITNESS TRAVEL LONDON Main Contributor Michael Leapman Contents How to Use This Guide 6 Project Editor Jane Shaw Art Editor Sally Ann Hibbard Editor Tom Fraser Designers Pippa Hurst, Robyn Tomlinson Design Assistant Clare Sullivan Contributors Christopher Pick, Lindsay Hunt Photographers Max Alexander, Philip Enticknap, John Heseltine, Stephen Oliver Illustrators Brian Delf, Trevor Hill, Robbie Polley Portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh (1585) This book was produced with the assistance of Websters International Publishers. Introducing Printed and bound in China London First American Edition, 1993 15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Great Days Published in the United States by in London 10 DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Putting London Reprinted with revisions 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2000 (twice), 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, on the Map 14 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 Copyright © 1993, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London The History of London 18 A Penguin Random House Company All Rights Reserved. London Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no at a Glance 38 part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior London Through written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited. the Year 58 A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 A River View ISBN 978-1-46542-864-6 of London 62 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage, i.e. the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Front cover main image: The Houses of Parliament and Lambeth Bridge Bedford Square doorway (1775) View of St. Paul’s Cathedral from One New Change London Area by Area Whitehall and Westminster 70 Piccadilly and St. James’s 88 Soho and Trafalgar Square 100 The Broadwalk at Hampton Court (c.1720) Covent Garden and the Strand 112 Shops and Markets 312 Entertainment in London 334 Children’s London 348 Beefeater at the Tower of London Regent’s Park and Marylebone 222 Hampstead 230 Bandstand in St. James’s Park Greenwich and Blackheath 238 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia 122 Farther Afield 246 Holborn and Six Guided the Inns of Court 134 Walks 264 Houses of Parliament The City 144 Survival Guide Smithfield and Practical Spitalfields 162 Information 354 Southwark and Getting to Bankside 174 London 364 South Bank 186 Getting Around St. Paul’s Church: Covent Garden London 370 Chelsea 194 Travelers’ Needs London South Kensington and Street Finder 378 Knightsbridge 200 Where to Stay 280 General Index 416 Kensington and Where to Eat and Drink Holland Park 216 288 Acknowledgments 438 6 (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get main sights with maps, phot ographs, and the most from your stay in London with the detailed illustrations. In addition, six planned minimum of practical difficulty. The opening walking routes take you to parts of London section, Introducing London, locates the city you might otherwise miss. geographically, sets modern London in its Well-researched tips on where to stay, eat, historical context, and describes the regular shop, and be entertained are in Travelers’ highlights of the London year. London at a Needs. Children’s London lists highlights for Glance is an overview of the city’s specialties. young visitors, and Survival Guide tells you London Area by Area takes you around the how to do anything from mailing a letter to city’s areas of interest. It describes all the using the Underground. London Area by Area The city has been divided into 16 the sights to be covered. Sights Finding your way around the area sightseeing areas, each with its are numbered and clearly section is made simple by the own section in the guide. Each located on an Area Map. After numbering system. This refers to section opens with a portrait of this comes a large-scale Street- the order in which sights are the area, summing up its char- by-Street Map focusing on the described on the pages that acter and history and listing all most interesting part of the area. complete the section. Color-coding on each page makes LONDON AREA BY AREA (cid:2) 71 the area easy to find in the book. 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E.atRidbssop e e erTphbames inplayeL1sna g4 mS B–aObA1nUeN5tTthKH takes in the most attractive and 2 Street-by-Street Map interesting streets in the area. This gives a bird’s-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing area. The numbering of the sights ties in with the area map and the fuller descriptions on the pages that follow. (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 London at a Glance 46 (cid:2) INTRODUCING LONDON LONDON AT A GLANCE (cid:2) 47 MPTmoEcthoahanuaecrne ksptmh chest; e oumeeaonmp :nt fatRho drsspeael i laGgm otrienn hawsasd tirtg rdsi ohnkG heaaniganstrb s elsastll ,e wee a ssCr rchLpioeeetooer ispdone,wc mCadneifngsoh ioc cenuon rserinicb.er hsste,h.e d se , LIguarbva1cpotehinb8fnoae lip loust Lcspmiainhl onkorwapgcg a rtncncteehboit oeemdisrc ynered n ohtpdbada,dh t nererietu f d eied was ynocrt-st r yohhgtCeio lot.awine ullhnephTisr dmaysrrerhe pIcfs nu i baaw’se Liaphiknsbtgrmuo nesmiheSfguoainea ost elo rnodB es JdtwbPriouooc spmieotannsfs ni ie o nlu enm itgoewoannnhnal’ssssr’oa es.h’te s ist “pf aiTkimsh tbCe nonChp.l ahtae oansgr leSegaaaer t tv :i nsocstsi enhyresfL. shi etm i saitt niAoC.ehntcecy e nMh4tnd ae ao, aEd m c8lGeav d nrhdasbcic–d netaooogcnehyey9 rdmalrna nouyua gds.eep ’ rntfetuseasc cx rhid dslpnhcnhtecrpote.aeche ,u ca lcylteaicu’ranasf scniec rlahidsc hlcad leliihieh oennf adweduesen too , r mos e,hilc ufn sidvratahboet eeanvtlees ynhrtedsprvii ena n y ahia elgignlneeRyw drdle de g M eanrty’sl ePbaorknATtR eohelmlgi sSe bpon liucanlqy sJ ucoehh ucnro cNmha esohsf ’sf1r 8o2mSTa4BSorn .aalqhod fuoao Fa lmagirtneazsdrbr o uvriya aGCSnoatdrrvad etnehndnet HtohlebC ooInurnnrs ta onfd SNJFmaetoma aMwdteue asor r isSnGnyomT g-Sialblih d peihtbter -iihesaStg Canffiithfnrloiie cfita wu1ly nedi7gsilndl 1hdaad4 nsnto–oddw1 , k 7tseh taeiosnp sad oh lruiiivpcte- htllihy ki neeB t ancerhoroiSTHctuiohqshhtarreau cue Mwd nehf rrjeck ae otdwshthwrmame yae(isel1 s oiWitolng 7-hbolugn1oierukt,6.’o s esisi–l tilt tsd in2 rwnmbee7otyea.)aet sthlar.l i poBpra eoroaf qrNsu ilceah rgoelars cEoalcohr- sciogdhetdse.eing area is SJ1tPhar7tomo 2Mtu2eeag ss–rht 6Gatti n iwn“btt-o baiwnsos ’o s-ogt rrchsaihghyeuii”-np frFoa.cilherl yl od fs aSnodu tKhn Kigehntssibnrgidtogne 00 mkiliolemsetres 0.51 anPdi cSct aJdamillyes’sWWeshtaimtneidhn astlle r RIVER THAMES cAatt hs1teheS1cSdet0Bo o r Padmanuenold tt imk(es h3l rat 6e’shr0 g oSei nef ftwt s WR)Pt o ohaarremiuflgtdnlehe’’’sssr., SBoaunathnkswdi daerk SWdcaautor rsSmevtnteinee rwdgep shami nsien toanecdtr l Wuiehodriarns e lo bb aHfel rt1eosa6tnor 7.wrk2yi –tMh7 o.t Ihotsirs e ’s WTceoahxf ettemhes Iretutimodaltlrriii acanclono’ssl-t noBreecuyrderz eCaa-adlansn tt madihn -eraewirdc bChhrlaa ietitnlesh.t boerlriiicoc kr BTcwhhroouisrmrk cssuhp bm twyop aInttsau Odloiaerunacst o aoBrraratyitrsoetdqs. uwei th arTchhhemiit gfeoaWhcmsltyteu o gsiramuetlnom spid rnaiir o nebmLussbosostneie nvmydreu oheA mtnadob,sei meb antvnhebtadsyesl. TBfosoueufr rmti vlththi peviene lf e e Kti nhwnC eihE gc n1uhir2grctctsluah hTln aeadrmn .cdph 1lua3rrc,t hhthe cisse tinsot ounriee s STccfiahhnotuieuhs r tmeclhadhrewgr wdaealia elruyksv n 1 anCt3loi alct tht1h hd9-ocee0iersd5.ni.gr tIantul ahrytae spd ra ia o ry 76 (cid:2) LONDON AREA BY AREA WHITEHALL AND WESTMINSTER (cid:2) 77 Th92BBwtrP1hCBWgfdt7mmlfcicotEhhWnioiiohhhog:rohrla.4seifioeou1h5ieioge asru aihweedezrmh-ni5nBrn nur sit smnlwrtadt e Bgmsiiat ietBrtDjl1elutonhroahm btaadoonmfiesieesateen0r mt ngeuria mr ibB Ce- ta ec iab(eSlagsn,6iinufd ivgn 2 irntithetsonmo1ga a ero n’s-ie sh ihohs3oesen i1S nlmmt anam Bneshvl s mt.e au aoW : f a Tpetg 1eBfbt lsmeIt Hronvnifti oostnloQ nm.,5tnos(e 1li )e e8lslobw r3antdbauh twdeyal.otl nuuilh o ,ilmM 2ntlMe u dsbrafsl a vB4es ic ea,eJwino 0smtc t stneise efmfuiadakr.e rh &ni oo2 no-nw iHo ockgrpy,rnftbioi oc f erc5 u ma n2etaoneon ft i1uowao Ui)e1 r1n :mhrnEil nps1 rammtee8sneu2-3tpe K8 ghhle5ciamf aottr 5i et0,s et l5aopzC hp re .ei moc mh oewie8(ec w1twcaT9tYr5ceme1 e ressxeh.saf rke2bah..e eelderi4 o e a C radeW 1Tc t ocd faeMedss r t f oissrocaesoalhf naokyhefr tl woo t tosntco.cnd ufstheffmehrc )e i cnet hlttrnl trdr.dt oo oelsar kski Ioah–Teab m Id t trtscnoc, tFnhht n e io ihktkntnsdr Saaeteh ghi le lt.e i il yi rness,e t ; 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Practical information on opening 78 (cid:2) LONDON AREA BY AREA WHITEHALL AND WESTMINSTER (cid:2) 79 hours, telephone numbers, websites, 4 Westminster Abbey VISITORS’ CHECKLIST aakoTsevdnhhaymo eti wlth afiosanebs c ttilbahoeoda enhiecs esc kogly phfflmi vaeyaeraobpgcnuo.he slf ssmpo, ouraa tensj oieatdr d cq sfhu iagci cchaskiitnlg liiy tshb.i etes. 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KEY Saaanrrtctad hor istrth eeinecx dthmuiicbroaaistlt tesd ioetmhntape vi olmsier towoafsn ttinth i nsweit dobeerruke.islsd toiinnf gg , csmEtm“f1Ab12345aPhohd3ubmoooemtawi bhle TSTMTnnpdoteeat ohhhtuaeaiusuyr nrmEmeeeo’dln s csCsgcd f d hNSCelb teohositwh tsuo.nlhs1nuore.oe numat4e orrrit sceartt Ctshf.Ahhdh rrhtooey”eb , ’ cwsTnt T wrefbh errifsCigaeaeaenht,shh usynrnbtet su a’r Essrstuosee hrpeneifirsid lieepegp’mt nsce s lltmteosai, e shchshcltnhmiatohonora i ibneunmsknno er tsltetrt yaeea hih sa iadsiinreenln ensiei es nedttn vho g .ae l .tAiisth tic es 1To t0Whmh meeep sNh a(tr3ia gaE5vthn iefvedt e)sv tlwiy ei ninwd aEeern,rd togh fwlaero,n nbmdau.v te 100tbt10ihn0ebeg5ee C0uga1o onubN2fn nbb e4Hf eyetw5eoy s E nN sBctdorheehywrewnu oa erd rcfcd dehRhis c eui-g11yrcbnn32hsse70 g60i nHse rn1Csehr2tobyhr6niu enY9fi eeeln dBsv aiiseonnvold geetry h m eo ofA vEb1edbd4we 0tayo0r dn ethwe 1d5is4s1o07l vM4e15od6 nW01fHacr3e0osoottsmumhets r- teptycohe lweent etCeurhdsray ptitleTs.er eh ei sCin oh1gAca81b ctfp09boaoVc150tegrroi8oec3y ori3nt:t or oME8nsa nHrl taioiQ1aziaolotsa3’u sitnbso u tert enhieersntucn-he cet c hIneIt’estun rteu ri2ys0 wt0ilo0erst.h 4 London’s major sights These are given two or more full pages in the sightseeing Numbered circles point out major area in which they are found. Historic buildings are dissected features of the sight listed in a key. to reveal their interiors; museums and galleries have color- coded floor plans to help you find important exhibits.