Lobster A Global History Elisabeth Townsend the edible series  Edible Series Editor: Andrew F. Smith is a revolutionary new series of books dedicated to food and drink that explores the rich history of cuisine. Each book reveals the global history and culture of one type of food or beverage. Already published Cake Nicola Humble Milk Hannah Velten Caviar Nichola Fletcher Pancake Ken Albala Cheese Andrew Dalby Pie Janet Clarkson Chocolate Sarah Moss and Pizza Carol Helstosky Alexander Badenoch Potato Andrew F. Smith Curry Colleen Taylor Sen Sandwich Bee Wilson Dates Nawal Nasrallah Soup Janet Clarkson Hamburger Andrew F. Smith Spices Fred Czarra Hot Dog Bruce Kraig Tea Helen Saberi Ice Cream Laura B. Weiss Whiskey Kevin R. Kosar Lobster A Global History Elisabeth Townsend   To Jeff with love and gratitude Published by Reaktion Books Ltd Great Sutton Street London ,  www.reaktionbooks.co.uk First published  Copyright © Elisabeth Townsend All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. Printed and bound in China by C&C Offset Printing Co. Ltd British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Townsend, Elisabeth. Lobster: a global history.–(Edible) . Lobsters. . Lobster fisheries –History. . Cooking (Lobsters) . Cooking (Lobsters) –History. . Title . Series .(cid:0)- :     Contents Introduction: What is a Lobster? 7 1 From Fertilizer to the Dinner Table 24 2 From Main Course to Mass Market 36 3 Lobster Takes Centre Stage 52 4 Lobster Controversies 68 5 Killing and Cooking (Humanely) 82 6 The Future of Lobsters 99 Recipes 115 Select Bibliography 129 Websites and Associations 131 Acknowledgements 133 Photo Acknowledgements 135 Index 137 Introduction: What is a Lobster? The world’s love affair with lobster began out of necessity. It wasn’t a mutual affection though: it was as lopsided as un - requited love. Humans needed to eat and the crustacean was often within easy reach by hand, spear, long hook, baskets and later nets and traps. But the shellfish eventually became more than just grub – its status shifted from vital protein to pauper’s food to cultural icon. This relationship has always been complex. When lob- sters were abundant many coastal dwellers disdained them. But their popularity with wealthy urban diners drove innova- tions that nearly annihilated the stocks. It was through these innovations and mass marketing that lobster ended up on dinner plates in Tokyo, Japan and Dubuque, Iowa. Clearly, this affaire d’amour isn’t a tawdry fling. It’s a long-term rela- tionship. The worldwide lobster industry is still thriving because early regulations prevented overfishing. Yet worry about losing the species continues amid record catches and several perplexing scares, and today lobsters and their consumers are under another threat. As concern about the humane treatment of lobsters heats up, demand may decline as purveyors be- come reluctant to sell them. Compassion is building for all  No digital rights Salvador Dalí, Lobster Telephone, . The lobster is an icon that has appeared in many works of art, including this example by the famous Spanish surrealist. animals and that includes the lobster. Some countries are con - sidering broadening animal welfare laws to include these lively shellfish. Once again new technology is a significant fac tor – with new killing machines that use electrocution and water pressure. Divorced from the primal experience of kill ing our dinner, we are in danger of losing the connection between the food we ingest and its origin. The idyllic experi ence of eating a freshly boiled lobster on a coastal dock may become extinct. If that happens, will anyone recognize the feisty iconic shell - fish on Salvador Dalí’s Lobster Telephoneor on Maine’s licence plate? Will we even remember what lobsters symbolize – summertime leisure on the rockbound coast, eating exquisite seafood with friends provided by in de pen d ent fisherwomen and men braving the elements to bring in the catch? What happens to the experience of ‘eating a lobster’? 