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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 20, September, 1877., by Various This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 20, September, 1877. Author: Various Release Date: April 11, 2010 [EBook #31946] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE, SEPT 1877 *** Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Josephine Paolucci and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. LIPPINCOTT'S MAGAZINE OF POPULAR LITERATURE AND SCIENCE. SEPTEMBER, 1877. ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS, IN THE YEAR 1877, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT & CO., IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF Congress, at Washington. TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES: MINOR TYPOS HAVE BEEN CORRECTED. TABLE OF CONTENTS HAS BEEN GENERATED for HTML version. Contents AMONG THE KABYLES. A PADUAN HOLIDAY. A LAW UNTO HERSELF. A WISH. MADAME PATTERSON-BONAPARTE. A SUMMER EVENING'S DREAM. BRANDYWINE, 1777. A GREAT DAY. A VENETIAN OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. HEINE. THE MARQUIS OF LOSSIE. OUR BLACKBIRDS. OUR MONTHLY GOSSIP. LITERATURE OF THE DAY. BOOKS RECEIVED. AMONG THE KABYLES. [Pg 265] TWO PAPERS.—I. MOSQUE AND DWELLING OF MARABOUTS, KOUKOU. MOSQUE AND DWELLING OF MARABOUTS, KOUKOU. REMAINS OF OLD NATIONALITIES ARE SCATTERED IN ODD CORNERS ALL OVER THE EARTH. EVERY LAND, ALMOST, POSSESSES A RELIC OF THE KIND MARKEDLY DIFFERENT FROM THE SPECIMENS PRESERVED ELSEWHERE, AND PECULIAR ENOUGH TO GIVE COLOR TO THE OLD THEORY OF ITS HAVING SPRUNG FROM THE SOIL. THESE TORN AND BATTERED SHREDS OF HUMANITY ARE USUALLY FOUND LODGED AMONG THE ROCKS, THE BLAST OF FOREIGN INVASION HAVING DRIVEN THEM THITHER FROM THE PLAINS. THE MOUNTAINS NOT ONLY GIVE THEM SHELTER, BUT SEEM TO REINFUSE NEW VIGOR, AND THUS IN MANY CASES ENABLE THEM TO EXERT MORE OR LESS OF A REFLEX INFLUENCE ON THEIR CONQUERORS. THIS INFLUENCE VARIES WITH THE CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RESPECTIVE RACES. THE INVADERS, IF ACTUATED BY CIVILIZING IMPULSES AND NOT MERE MILITARY AMBITION, WILL MAKE THEMSELVES USEFUL AND NECESSARY TO THE NATIVES, DEVELOP WHAT CAPACITY THEY HAVE, AND ABSORB THEM POLITICALLY. IN THE OPPOSITE CASE FUSION IS NOT EFFECTED, AND A DEGREE OF ANTAGONISM IS MAINTAINED WHICH BREAKS OUT ON OCCASION INTO ACTUAL HOSTILITIES. BETWEEN THESE TWO EXTREME CASES WE MAY trace an infinity of examples, modified by endless combinations of circumstances and conditions. IN GREAT BRITAIN WE SEE THE GAEL WHIRLED UP BY SUCCESSIVE GUSTS FROM ITALY, THE ELBE AND NORMANDY INTO THE CLEFTS OF THE WELSH AND SCOTTISH MOUNTAINS. FRANCE HAS DRIVEN HER ABORIGINES INTO THE PENINSULA OF BRITTANY AND THE GORGES OF THE EASTERN PYRENEES. THE FINNS FIND REFUGE AMONG THE FROZEN SWAMPS NORTH-EAST OF ST. PETERSBURG. THE ETHNIC MUSEUM OF MOUNTAINOUS SPAIN IS MORE RICH AND VARIED THAN THAT OF HER NORTHERN NEIGHBORS, AND ITALY HAS REMNANTS DATING BACK INTO THE NIGHT OF HISTORIC TIME IN SARDINIA AND THE ABRUZZI. JAPAN, ANCIENT AS SHE IS, HAS HER AINOS OF UNRECORDED ANTIQUITY, AND THE RANGES OF CENTRAL INDIA ARE HAUNTED BY RACES STILL MORE PRIMITIVE AND UNPREPOSSESSING IN MANNERS AND PHYSIOGNOMY. OVER THE PLAINS OF BOTH CONTINENTS SO MANY SUCCESSIVE WAVES OF POPULATION HAVE SWEPT THAT NO RACE CAN CLAIM MORE THAN A COMPARATIVE ANTIQUITY. THE TRACEABLE PEDIGREE OF ANY GIVEN COMMUNITY BECOMES VERY SHORT INDEED, AND THE INQUIRER CONTENTS HIMSELF WITH CONCEDING THAT THE THIBETAN SEPT WHICH ARROGATES DESCENT FROM ALEXANDER'S GREEKS MAY DO SO WITH TRUTH—SAY AS MUCH TRUTH AS THERE WAS IN THE DESCENT OF CERTAIN STRAW-COLORED CREEKS AND CHOCTAWS FROM the followers of De Soto. UNLIKE THE THIBETANS, THE KABYLES REPUDIATE CLASSIC ORIGIN. THEY ARE THE ONLY PEOPLE WHO HAVE MADE "BARBARIAN" A TITLE OF HONOR, AND CALL THEMSELVES BERBERS, THE MODERN NAME HAVING BEEN GIVEN THEM BY THE ARABS. THE DWELLERS ON THE DANUBE, THE SEINE AND THE THAMES, WHO ONCE SHARED WITH THEM THE DESIGNATION OF "BARBARIAN," WERE QUICK TO SHAKE IT OFF. EUROPEAN BARBARY EXISTS NO LONGER. ITS MODERN INHABITANTS AMUSE THEMSELVES WITH EXPLORING THE SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN, AND IN ASCERTAINING WHETHER THEIR WHILOM FELLOW-PROVINCIALS OF THAT COAST ARE STILL DETERMINED TO BE BARBAROUS IN FACT AS IN NAME. THE GERMANS TOOK THEIR TURN AT AN ATTEMPT OF THIS CHARACTER IN THE DAYS OF GENSERIC, THE VANDAL NAME AND NATION HAVING WOUND UP ITS CAREER IN AFRICA, SINKING INTO THE SANDS OF THAT INHOSPITABLE CONTINENT IRRECOVERABLY, UNLESS WE ACCEPT THE KABYLES AS THE REPRESENTATIVES OF THEIR BLOOD. FORTY YEARS AGO ANOTHER NORTHERN RACE ENTERED UPON THE TASK, THE MISRULE OF THE ARAB AND THE TURK HAVING APPARENTLY PREPARED THE WAY FOR A NEW INVASION. THE FRENCH PINED FOR AN OPPORTUNITY OF TESTING ONCE MORE THEIR GENIUS FOR COLONIZATION, AND THEY SELECTED THIS TIME, IN PLACE OF A WILD TRACT IN AMERICA OR OCEANICA, A REGION OPPOSITE THEIR OWN SHORES CULTIVATED AND DENSELY PEOPLED WHEN GAUL WAS SAVAGE, AND STILL OCCUPIED BY INHABITANTS AS PROUD AND TURBULENT AS THOSE WHO PROPOSED TO RECLAIM AND RECONSTRUCT THEM. KABYLIA PROPER IS A PART OF THE ALGERINE TERRITORY BUT A FEW HOURS DISTANT FROM THE WALLS OF ALGIERS, OF THE SIZE OF AN AVERAGE FRENCH DEPARTMENT, AND HAVING A POPULATION OF ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FIVE TO THE SQUARE MILE —A RATIO IDENTICAL WITH THAT OF FRANCE. BUT THE NEW PROVINCE, LIKE ITS NEW MOTHER—OR STEP-MOTHER—COUNTRY, HAD ALSO ITS OUTLIERS OF TERRITORY AND PEOPLE. THE KABYLES OVERFLOW EAST, WEST AND SOUTH. THEY NEARLY EQUAL THE ARABS OF ALGERIA IN NUMBERS, THE MOUNTAIN KABYLES BEING ESTIMATED AT FIVE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY THOUSAND, AND THOSE OF THE PLAIN AT THREE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-NINE THOUSAND, WHILE THE ARABS COUNT IN ALL ONE MILLION THREE HUNDRED AND EIGHTY-FIVE THOUSAND. THESE FIGURES MEASURE THE EXTENT TO WHICH THE ORIENTAL IMMIGRATION HAS SUPPLANTED THE NATIVES OF ROMANO-GOTHIC [Pg 266] [Pg 267] NUMIDIAN ORIGIN. ITS EFFECT IN OTHER RESPECTS HAS HARDLY BEEN IN A LIKE PROPORTION. IT HAS IMPOSED THE MOHAMMEDAN RELIGION IN A MODIFIED FORM, STRANGELY MIXED WITH RELICS OF OLDER SUPERSTITIONS. IN LANGUAGE IT HAS WROUGHT MUCH LESS OF A CHANGE, THOUGH MORE THAN CAN BE TRACED TO EITHER THE VANDALS OR THE ROMANS. IN PHYSIQUE AND MANNERS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ARAB AND KABYLE REMAINS SHARPLY DRAWN. THE ARABS ARE GAUNT AND INDOLENT DWELLERS IN TENTS, AS THEY WERE IN THE DAYS OF JOB, THE SPEAR THEIR ONLY IMPLEMENT; WHILE THE KABYLES HERD IN TOWNS, WEAVE, FORGE AND PLOUGH. RED BEARDS, LIGHT EYES, BROAD AND ROUND SKULLS AND MASSIVE FEATURES ARE NOT UNFREQUENT AMONG THE KABYLE MEN, AND IN MANY OF THE villages the children are all blondes, as are to a less degree the women. OIL-WORKS. OIL-WORKS. IN NOTHING, PERHAPS, IS THE LINE MORE STRONGLY DRAWN BETWEEN THE TWO RACES THAN IN THE TREATMENT OF THEIR FEMALES. THE ASIATIC SECLUSION OF WOMEN IS UNKNOWN AMONG THE KABYLES. THERE ARE NO HAREMS AND NO VEILS. IF, IN RETURN, THE KABYLE WOMEN ARE SUBJECTED TO MORE OF SUCH UNFEMININE EMPLOYMENTS AS HARVESTING AND TURNING THE WHEELS OF OLIVE-MILLS, THAT DOES NOT LESSEN THE ASSIMILATION TO WESTERN USAGE, BUT RATHER INCREASES THE RESEMBLANCE BETWEEN THE LIFE OF THE FAIR AFRICANS AND THAT OF THEIR SISTERS AMONG THE PEASANTRY OF EUROPE. CARRYING WATER, SO CHARACTERISTIC A FEMALE OFFICE IN THE EAST, AS THE ARTISTS ARE CONSTANTLY REMINDING US, IS NONE THE LESS SO AMONG THE KABYLES. BUT IT BECOMES A MORE SERIOUS MATTER WHEN THE WELLS OR STREAMS ARE THREE OR FOUR HUNDRED FEET LOWER THAN THE SITE OF THE DWELLING TO BE SUPPLIED. IN SUCH CASES DONKEYS COME TO THE AID OF THEIR MISTRESSES, AT SOME SACRIFICE OF THE PICTURESQUE, BUT WITH GREAT ADVANTAGE TO comfort. A WATER-SUPPLY THUS OBTAINED MUST BE, IT IS OBVIOUS, INADEQUATE TO THE DEMANDS OF SCRUPULOUS CLEANLINESS. ACCORDINGLY, THE DESERT WANDERER HAS THE ADVANTAGE IN THIS RESPECT OF THE KABYLES, CROWDED INTO A VILLAGE PERCHED ON THE SUMMIT OF A ROCK AND TRAVERSED ONLY BY PATHWAYS CUT, AS IT WERE, THROUGH SOLID BLOCKS OF HOUSES. THESE ABODES ARE OF BUT ONE STORY, AND GENERALLY OF ONE ROOM. BIPEDS AND QUADRUPEDS LIVE TOGETHER, EATING AND SLEEPING ON THE SAME EARTHEN FLOOR. THERE ARE NO CHIMNEYS AND NO WINDOWS. CUTANEOUS AND OPHTHALMIC AFFECTIONS ARE OF COURSE COMMON, AND TYPHUS FEVER NOW AND THEN REDRESSES THE BALANCE IN MALTHUSIAN FASHION BY REDUCING THE CROWD. DEATH IS THE GREAT SANITARY REGULATOR OR SUPERINTENDENT OF HYGIENE. HIS FUNCTIONS IN THIS REGARD ARE BUT SLIGHTLY, IF AT ALL, INTERFERED WITH BY THE AUTHORITIES OF THE village. THE HEAD OF THE MUNICIPALITY IS AN OFFICER CALLED AN amin: WE MIGHT STYLE HIM THE MAYOR. HE IS CHOSEN BY POPULAR SUFFRAGE FROM EACH OF THE FAMILY OR PATRIARCHAL GROUPS OR CLANS COMPOSING THE COMMUNITY IN TURN. HE IS GUIDED IN HIS ADMINISTRATION BY A CODE OF WRITTEN LAWS BEARING THE NAME OF khanoun OR CANON, ESTABLISHED FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL. HE IS CHECKED ALSO BY A CITY COUNCIL CHOSEN FROM AMONG THE NOTABLES, AND IS REQUIRED TO CONSULT IT BEFORE TAKING ANY EXECUTIVE OR JUDICIAL STEP. THE SECRETARY OF THE COUNCIL, ELECTED BY IT, BEARS THE TITLE OF chodja. HE IS GENERALLY AN OLD CODGER, FOR THE DOUBLE REASON THAT CLERKS USUALLY DO GROW OLD IN HARNESS, AND THAT WRITING IS NOT A UNIVERSAL ACCOMPLISHMENT AMONG THE KABYLES AND COMPETITION FOR THE OFFICE IS NOT GREAT. HE KEEPS THE JOURNAL OF THE MUNICIPALITY, AND CONDUCTS ALL ITS CORRESPONDENCE WITH OTHER TOWNS AND WITH THE FRENCH AUTHORITIES. HE ENJOYS A SALARY, PAID IN KIND WITH FIGS, OLIVES, ETC. IN THIS PLEASANT FEATURE OF HIS POST HE SEEMS TO BE DISTINGUISHED FROM HIS ASSOCIATE FUNCTIONARIES. WE DO NOT FIND THAT THEY RECEIVE ANY PAY, UNLESS IN THE INDIRECT SHAPE OF BRIBES AND PERQUISITES—A MODE OF compensation as well understood in the East as in the West. MOSLEM INFLUENCE SHOWS ITSELF IN THE CLOSE ASSOCIATION OF CHURCH AND STATE. THE MOSQUE OF EACH TOWN HAS ITS TREASURY, FED BY THE FINES IMPOSED ON TRANSGRESSORS BY THE MUNICIPAL COUNCIL AND BY DUES FROM THE REGISTRATION OF MARRIAGES, BIRTHS and deaths. The sacred building itself serves another purpose still more alien to its religious character. The hustings, even AMONG THIS SIMPLE AND PRIMITIVE PEOPLE, ARE NOT SCENES OF UNBROKEN TRANQUILLITY. THERE ARE ALWAYS TWO PARTIES IN THE VILLAGE, AS WITH US; BUT, AS FORTUNATELY IS NOT THE IN THE UNITED STATES, THESE PARTIES HAVE CASEHARDENED INTO HEREDITARY FACTIONS, ALWAYS READY TO AIR THEIR ANCESTRAL FEUDS AT THE POLLS. BULLETS COME TO THE AID OF BALLOTS. TO USE THE LOCAL [Pg 267] [Pg 268] [Pg 269] EXPRESSION, "THE SPEAKING IS DONE WITH POWDER." THE RUDE FIRE-LOCK OF THE COUNTRY, WITH ITS ABSURDLY LONG BARREL AND WHEEL-LOCK, ANSWERS WELL ENOUGH AT SHORT RANGE, AND PROVES HIGHLY INFLUENTIAL IN BRINGING ABOUT A SPEEDY DECISION WITHOUT THE ASSISTANCE OF RETURNING BOARDS AND ELECTORAL COMMISSIONS. THE VILLAGES HAVE RARELY MORE THAN TWO OR THREE THOUSAND SOULS, AND COVER BUT A FEW ACRES. THE DISPUTE CANNOT LAST LONG, AND CONTESTED ELECTIONS ARE SOON SETTLED. THE MOSQUE IS ONE STORY HIGHER THAN THE OTHER BUILDINGS, HAVING A SECOND FLOOR. IT IS ALSO ON MORE ELEVATED GROUND. THESE ATTRACTIONS CAUSE THE SANCTUARY TO FILL UP RAPIDLY IN TIME OF TROUBLE. THE FAITHFUL WHO GET FIRST TO CHURCH HAVE A MARKED advantage over their fellow-parishioners. A KABYLE WAKE. A KABYLE WAKE. THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE TRIBE COMES DIRECTLY UNDER FRENCH CONTROL. IT IS COMMITTED TO A CHIEF WHO IS NOT ALLOWED TO INTERFERE WITH THE LOCAL AFFAIRS OF THE VILLAGES COMPOSING THE TRIBE. BUT PRESSURE IN THE DIRECTION OF CENTRALIZATION IS GRADUALLY BEING EMPLOYED BY THE FRENCH, IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE POLITICAL NOTIONS AND GENIUS OF THAT NATION. IT NEEDS, HOWEVER, TO BE USED WITH EXTREME CAUTION, AS WARNING CATASTROPHES STILL OCCUR TO PROVE. THE SOLEMN ENGAGEMENT MADE WHEN THE KABYLES CAPITULATED IN 1857, TO RIGIDLY RESPECT THEIR PUBLIC CUSTOMS AND THEIR COMMUNAL ELECTIONS, WILL ENFORCE ITSELF UPON THE MORE OR LESS SINCERE ATTENTION OF THE INVADERS AS LONG AS THEY POSSESS THE COUNTRY. THE STORMY CLANHOOD that insists on the luxury of at least an annual fight among neighbors is often the last hold of national independence. THE POLLS: MODEL VOTERS. THE POLLS: MODEL VOTERS. FRANCE IS NOT THE FIRST SUZERAIN WHO HAS FOUND IT HARD TO RULE, AND INDISPENSABLE TO SEDULOUSLY HUMOR, THESE RESTLESS INDIGENES. THEY WERE QUITE AS TROUBLESOME TO THE TURKS. THE DEY OF ALGIERS WAS BUT A NOMINAL BRANCH OF THE HOME HOUSE AT CONSTANTINOPLE. THANKS TO HIS KABYLE CONSTITUENTS, HE DID BUSINESS PRETTY MUCH ON HIS OWN ACCOUNT AND IN HIS OWN WAY. COULD THE SULTAN HAVE BEEN HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PIRACIES OF HIS NOMINAL VASSAL, THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN PUT AN END TO A CENTURY SOONER. HE COULD NOT CONTROL THE DEY BECAUSE THE DEY COULD NOT CONTROL THE KABYLES. AT THE VILLAGE OF TIZA-TERGA IS SHOWN—OR WAS A YEAR OR TWO AGO—A CURIOUS FIELD-PIECE OF HEXAGONAL FORM ABANDONED BY THE TURKS [Pg 269] [Pg 270] IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY AFTER AN UNSUCCESSFUL ATTACK ON THE KABYLE STRONGHOLD OF KOUKOU. WHEN THE DEY YIELDED TO THE FRENCH HE CONVEYED WHAT HE WAS UNABLE TO DELIVER, AND THE CONQUEST OF THE COUNTRY HAS BEEN GOING ON EVER SINCE. THIS PROCESS OF SUBJUGATION IS ANYTHING BUT STEADY. THE YEARS OF TRANQUILLITY OUTNUMBER THOSE OF DISTURBANCE, AND THAT DISPROPORTION, ALREADY VERY GREAT, MAY BE SAID TO BE INCREASING. IN THE LONG INTERVALS OF PEACE EVERYTHING GOES ON SMOOTHLY. THE NATIVES BUSY THEMSELVES IN THEIR FIELDS AND THEIR SIMPLE WORKSHOPS, CONTENT WITH THE OCCASIONAL EFFERVESCENCE OF A TOWN-QUARREL. THE EXPORTS OF THE PROVINCE MOUNT UP RAPIDLY. FRANCE FELICITATES HERSELF ON THE BRILLIANT SUCCESS OF HER EXPERIMENT, SENDS OVER SMALL GROUPS OF IMMIGRANTS AND OCCUPIES HERSELF WITH PROJECTS OF VAST PROSPECTIVE VALUE. PAPER RAILWAYS PERMEATE THE GORGES OF THE DJURJURA MOUNTAINS, AND PAPER CANALS LEAD THE WATERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN INTO THE DESERT BASIN BEYOND. SHE REPAIRS SOME OF THE ROMAN AQUEDUCTS, BUILDS WOODEN BRIDGES, KEEPS AT BAY THE PURELY PREDATORY TRIBES OF THE INTERIOR, AND PROTECTS INDUSTRY AS CERTAINLY IT NEVER WAS PROTECTED UNDER THE TURKS. SHE MANIFESTS A SINCERE WISH TO MAKE THE TRI-COLOR A BLESSING TO AFRICA, AND WITH TIME AND NO DISASTER AT HOME bids fair to succeed. KABYLE ARMORERS AT WORK. KABYLE ARMORERS AT WORK. WERE SHE TO BE DRIVEN OUT TO-DAY, THE TRACES OF HER BENEFICENT SWAY WOULD BE MORE MARKED THAN THOSE LEFT BY HER predecessors, or by their PREDECESSORS THE VANDALS. THEY COULD NOT POSSIBLY BE LESS SO. THE MISSION OF BOTH THESE WAS FRUITFUL CHIEFLY OF DISORDER AND DEVASTATION. COMPARED WITH THEM, THE NATIVES WHOM THEY RULED AGAINST INCESSANT PROTEST WERE THE REPRESENTATIVES OF CIVILIZATION. THE ARABS BUILT A FEW FORTS ON THE BEACH TO SHELTER PIRACY. WHAT THE VANDALS LEFT WERE BURNT AND OVERTHROWN WALLS, THE MEMORY OF SOME RELIGIOUS RIOTS, AND A SMALL LIBRARY OF PIOUS POLEMICS. BETWEEN THEM, THEY HELD THE COUNTRY FOR FIFTEEN CENTURIES: THE ROMANS HAD IT FOR FOUR. ALL THE MOLES AND ARTIFICIAL FORTS, NUMEROUS AND OFTEN MASSIVE; ALL THE AQUEDUCTS, SOME OF THEM SPANNING RAVINES THREE HUNDRED FEET DEEP, AND OTHERS STRETCHING FOR MANY LEAGUES; ALL THE CITIES, TOMBS AND TEMPLES, OF WHICH THE REMAINS ARE SCATTERED FROM THE SEA TO THE PEAKS,— EVERYTHING, IN FACT, WHICH SHOWS THAT THIS WAS ONCE A DOMAIN OF ART AND INTELLECT AND CULTURE, IS ROMAN. ROMAN SEPULCHRES LOOK DOWN UPON THE CENTRAL FRENCH CANTONMENT; ROMAN COINS AND GEMS ARE THROWN OUT BY THE ZOUAVE, WHO WORKS WITH THE PICK IN ONE HAND AND THE RIFLE IN THE OTHER; AND THE SQUARED STONES AND ROUND COLUMNS OF ROMAN TEMPLES are built into the huts of the people and the forts of their present rulers. THIS SUPERIORITY OF THE ANCIENT METHODS OF COLONIZATION, AS ATTESTED BY RESULTS, CANNOT BE EXPLAINED BY ANY ADVANTAGE IN THE ARTS OF WAR COMPARABLE TO THAT NOW ENJOYED BY THE INVADING NATION. GUNPOWDER DID NOT EXIST TO CAST THE BALANCE. THE SUCCESS ATTAINED MUST BE ASCRIBED TO A DEEPER KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS OF PEACE, AND ESPECIALLY THOSE OF GOVERNMENT. Surely the nineteenth century ought to be able to discover the secret. THEIR SUSPICIONS ONCE ALLAYED, AND APPREHENSIONS OF PURPOSES OF MERE MILITARY ENCROACHMENT AND NEW OPPRESSION REMOVED, THE KABYLES ARE VERY READY TO FORWARD THE CONSTRUCTION OF WORKS OF PUBLIC UTILITY, AND RESPOND WITH ALACRITY TO CALLS FOR LABOR. THE MOUNTAIN-STREAMS, NEARLY DRY FOR GREAT PART OF THE YEAR, ARE AT TIMES SWELLED BY DESTRUCTIVE FLOODS WHICH CARRY DOWN GREAT BOULDERS AND TRUNKS OF TREES. FOR WANT OF BRIDGES, ACCESS TO THE OPEN-AIR MARKETS WHICH ARE held at places and periods fixed by long usage is thus liable to be prevented. ONE OF THE MOST LARGELY ATTENDED OF THESE MARKETS IS HELD ON THE RIGHT BANK OF THE SMALL RIVER DJEMAA AT A POINT ABOUT MIDWAY BETWEEN FORT NATIONAL ON THE NORTH AND THE SUMMIT OF THE DJURJURA ON THE SOUTH, THREE OR FOUR LEAGUES FROM EITHER. THE CROWD OF BUYERS AND SELLERS, MOST OF THEM BELONGING TO BOTH CLASSES, REACHES AS MANY AS FOUR THOUSAND. THE FRESHETS OF THE DJEMAA BECOMING YEARLY MORE OF AN IMPEDIMENT TO TRAVEL, THE TRIBE OF THE BENI-MENGUELLET, UPON WHOSE TERRITORY THE FAIR IS HELD, BECAME FEARFUL OF THE LOSS OF ITS COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES, WHICH WERE LARGELY DEPENDENT ON THE VISITS OF THE TRIBES ON THE LEFT BANK. THEY CONSEQUENTLY PROPOSED THE BUILDING OF A BRIDGE, AND OFFERED TO FURNISH MEN AND MATERIALS TO BE USED UNDER FRENCH DIRECTION. A SECTION OF SAPPERS COMMANDED BY A LIEUTENANT SOON FINISHED THE WORK WITH THE AID PROMISED. THE KABYLES SHOWED GREAT SKILL IN THE HANDLING OF THEIR RUDE TOOLS. WITH THEIR SMALL AXES THEY [Pg 271] [Pg 272] FELLED LARGE TREES SO RAPIDLY AS TO ASTONISH THE FRENCH. THE FELLING, HOWEVER, WAS A MINOR PART OF THE TASK. THE HEAVY BEAMS HAD TO BE CARRIED FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE STEEP RAVINE UP GOAT-PATHS TO THE LEVEL OF THE BRIDGE. THIS WAS DONE IN THE OLD EGYPTIAN WAY, BY SHEER MULTIPLICATION OF HANDS, WITH NO AID FROM THE MECHANICAL FORCES. A NUMBER OF MEN TOOK HOLD OF EACH BEAM AND OF HAND-SPIKES PASSED UNDER IT WHERE THE TRACK WAS WIDE ENOUGH, AND OTHERS DREW BY ROPES. THE SLOW AND SOLEMN PROCESSION, ENLIVENING ITS WAY WITH EQUALLY SOLEMN CHANTS IN THE DEEPEST OF GUTTURALS, CLIMBED THE PRECIPICE ON THE SLOW BUT SURE PRINCIPLE. THE BRIDGE WAS A SUCCESS, THE THREATENED DIVERSION OF TRADE ESCAPED, AND BENI-MENGUELLET STOCK STOOD AT A HIGHER QUOTATION THAN EVER. A SQUAD OF SAPPERS, NOT A MOUTHFUL IN A MILITARY SENSE FOR THE HUNDREDS OF KABYLES THEY SUPERVISED, HAD DONE MORE TO WIN THE LOYALTY OF THE NATIVES THAN A BRIGADE OF beaux sabreurs or cave-smokers could have accomplished. The hammer rather than the musket is the weapon of subjugation. FORT NATIONAL. FORT NATIONAL. ROMAN TOMB, NEAR FORT NATIONAL. ROMAN TOMB, NEAR FORT NATIONAL. AT THESE MARKETS KABYLIA SITS TO THE FOREIGNER FOR HER PICTURE. HOW SHE LIVES, WHAT SHE PRODUCES AND WHAT SHE WANTS IS PLAINLY AND PICTURESQUELY STATED. THE INEVITABLE JEW, IN BEARD AND GABERDINE, BRINGS FROM THE CITY HIS PACK OF TRINKETS AND GAY STUFF, WITH BALES OF HEAVIER TISSUES FOR THE EXCESSIVELY SIMPLE WORK-DAY ROBES OF THE KABYLE. THE RICH PLAIN OF OUED SAHEL SENDS ITS WHEAT AND BARLEY TO EXCHANGE FOR THE PRODUCTS OF THE HILL-LOVING OLIVE-ORCHARD AND FIG-PLANTATION. THE BENI-JANNI, CHIEFS OF THE METAL-WORKERS, SIT SURROUNDED BY ENTICING ROWS OF SWORDS, DAGGERS, GUNS, ARMLETS, LEGLETS, SILVER AND COPPER-GILT HEAD-DRESSES AND BROOCHES. VASES IN CLAY, ORNAMENTAL AND PLAIN IN EVERY GRADATION, ARE THE SPECIALTY OF THE BENI-AISSI. THE BENI-BOU-YOUSEF ARE THE WEAVERS, FAMOUS FOR MANY-COLORED HAÏKS AND BURNOUSES, LEAVING TO THE BENI-ABBES A REPUTE FOR SIMILAR GARMENTS OF A PARTICULAR STRIPED FABRIC. HORSES OF THE BARB TYPE, SMALL BUT ELEGANT IN FIGURE, COME FROM ALL QUARTERS; BUT MULES, WHICH ARE OFFERED IN CONSIDERABLE NUMBER, ARE SOMETHING OF A MONOPOLY WITH THE BENI-OUASSIF, THE KENTUCKIANS OF KABYLIA. WOMEN, INDIFFERENT AS TO TRIBE, AND INDIFFERENT ALSO, IT IS SAD TO STATE, IN APPEARANCE, BEING MOSTLY OVER AGE, SPREAD STORES OF BUTTER, HONEY, EGGS, FRUIT, LEAN POULTRY AND HERBS. THE YOUNG LADIES, THERE AS IN OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD, COME NOT TO SELL, BUT TO SHOP. THINGS OF PARIS ARE NOT WANTING TO ENCOURAGE THIS PROPENSITY, WHICH GROWS BY WHAT IT FEEDS ON, AND PROMOTES THE CIVILIZATION OF THE COUNTRY BY THE CREATION of artificial wants. [Pg 273] [Pg 274] [Pg 275] AN IMPROVISED GOBLET. AN IMPROVISED GOBLET. BRUSHING THROUGH DEWY THICKETS OF LENTISK AND ROSE-BAY, OR DRAWN SHARP AGAINST THE VIVID AFRICAN SKY ON THE SUMMIT OF A BARE SPUR, GROUPS OF MOUNTAINEERS WITH THEIR WARES AND THEIR FLOCKS WEND THEIR WAY AT DAWN TO THE MARKET. IT HAS THE AIR OF A UNANIMOUS TURN-OUT OF THE FAMILY, ALL WHO CAN WALK OR BE CARRIED, WITH DOGS, GOATS, SHEEP, ASSES AND CATTLE, YIELDING TO THE COMMON ATTRACTION. THE KABYLES, UNLIKE THE ARABS, DO NOT SMOKE, MAKING UP FOR THAT PRIVATION BY A MUCH GREATER CONSUMPTION OF MEAT. THE MARKETERS OF THE BENI-MENGUELLET WILL SWALLOW FOR BREAKFAST AND DINNER TWO SCORE OXEN AND TWICE AS MANY SHEEP AND GOATS. THE BUTCHERING IS DONE ON THE SPOT, OR RATHER HARD BY, USUALLY BY NEGROES WHO MAKE IT THEIR PROFESSION, AND JOURNEY FROM FAIR TO FAIR WITH THE OUTFIT OF KNIVES AND STEEL AND A REED FLUTE TO BEGUILE THE WAY WITH GENUINE AFRICAN MELODIES. THE KABYLES HAVE NO HIGHER USE FOR THE NEGRO, THE POST OF SERAGLIO-GUARD ASSIGNED HIM AMONG wealthier and more orthodox Moslems being a sinecure with them. When we remember that these large commercial reunions are held as often as each week, we are prepared to recognize A DEGREE OF MOVEMENT AND ENERGY SUFFICIENT OF ITSELF TO SEPARATE SHARPLY THE KABYLES FROM THEIR ASIATIC CORELIGIONISTS. REPOSE IS NOT THEIR CHIEF LUXURY. THE CHARMS OF kief ARE LESS IRRESISTIBLE THAN TO THE ARAB OR THE TURK. THE MERE LABOR, INDEED, OF REACHING THEIR ROCK-BUILT HOMES EXACTS CONSIDERABLE BODILY EXERTION. COMPARED WITH A DAILY CLIMB OF SOME HUNDREDS OF FEET WHEN THE PLOUGHMAN HOMEWARD TAKES HIS WEARY WAY, THE TOIL OF THE HARVEST-FIELD BELOW LOOKS LIKE RECREATION. A LIFE WHICH KEEPS THE BLOOD CIRCULATING SO RAPIDLY CANNOT FAIL TO DEVELOP A HARDY RACE FULL OF THE PRIDE BORN OF CONSCIOUS STRENGTH, AND NOT DISPOSED TO YIELD READILY TO LORDS WHO EXHAUST THEIR PHYSICAL POWERS IN SCALING THEIR EYRIES. LONG TRAINING HAS GIVEN THE NATIVES SOMETHING OF THE AGILITY OF THE MONKEYS WITH WHICH THEY SHARE THE CRAGS. KABYLE SHARPSHOOTERS OBSTRUCTED THE COMPLETION OF FRENCH HILL-FORTS BY ASCENDING THE PARAPET AT NIGHT AND WAKING THE GARRISON AND THE WORKMEN WITH A STORM OF BALLS. THE PURSUIT OF THEM, WHEN DRIVEN BACK, WAS UNAVAILING. THE SOLDIERS, ENCUMBERED WITH CLOTHING AND ACCOUTREMENTS AND SHOD WITH STIFF LEATHER, COULD HOLD NO HEADWAY WITH THE KABYLE CLAD ONLY IN A TUNIC AND GRASPING THE CLIFFS WITH FOUR HANDS LIKE THE MONKEYS. FINALLY, DOGS WERE IMPORTED, REGULARLY BRIGADED AND REGULARLY CREDITED AT THE COMMISSARIAT. DOGS ARE KEEN DISTINGUISHERS OF PERSONS AND ACUTE ETHNOLOGISTS. THESE TRAITS, HOWEVER, WERE POSSESSED ALIKE BY THE AFRICAN CURS, WHICH OUTNUMBERED THE QUADRUPED GAULS AND FULLY SYMPATHIZED WITH THE PREJUDICES OF THEIR DUSKY PROPRIETORS. THIS DIFFICULTY WAS FATAL TO THE CANINE CRUSADE. THE INFIDEL DOGS WERE TOO many for the Christians, and were soon able to redevote themselves to older enemies, the jackals and hyænas. A PREFERENCE FOR PEACEFUL INDUSTRY MAY BE SAID TO HAVE ALWAYS PREVAILED AMONG THE KABYLES WHEN LEFT TO THEMSELVES. THE CHRONIC PASSION FOR FIGHTING WAS RATHER LOCALIZED: PARTICULAR VILLAGES WERE AFFECTED BY IT. THAT OF TAKA, FOR INSTANCE, COMMANDINGLY POSTED ON A HEIGHT THIRTY-FIVE HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE SEA, HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE TERROR OF ITS NEIGHBORS. WHATEVER THE FLAG OR FAITH NOMINALLY IN THE ASCENDANT, TAKA TOOK HER PLACE IN THE OPPOSITION AND INVITED ALL ADULLAMITES TO MAKE THEIR HOME WITHIN HER GATES. MISDIRECTED ENERGY LIKE THIS WILL, UNDER A STRONG, PATIENT AND PROGRESSIVE GOVERNMENT, BE DIRECTED INTO MORE USEFUL CHANNELS. THE MOST TURBULENT WILL BECOME SENSIBLE OF THE NECESSITY OF EATING. THE LARDER OF CRAGS AND CAVES IS NECESSARILY MEAGRE AND PRECARIOUS. THE BRAVES MUST GO TO MARKET. FOR SUCCESS AT THAT PLACE OF POPULAR RESORT THEY MUST CARRY SOMETHING TO SELL IN ORDER TO BE ABLE TO BUY, AND THEY MUST BEHAVE THEMSELVES IN 'CHANGE HOURS. ON THE LATTER POINT THE FRENCH AND THE PEACEABLY DISPOSED NATIVES INSIST WITH INCREASING UNANIMITY. THEY WILL HAVE TO TAKE A LESSON FROM THE VULTURES WHICH STOOP WITH THEM FROM THE HILLS. THESE KNOW MARKET-DAY AS WELL AS THE ALMANAC OR THE NEGRO BUTCHER. PUNCTUAL TO A MINUTE, THEY PERCH AT A RESPECTFUL DISTANCE FROM THE CENTRE OF TRAFFIC, FRAME THE DUSKY CROWD WITH A CIRCLE OF FEATHERED SENTINELS IN UNIFORM OF LIGHT GRAY, AND CALMLY AWAIT THE DISTRIBUTION OF SUCH SHREDS OF EATABLES AS EVEN THE KABYLE CANNOT USE. IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FANCY A GENTLEMAN WHO RESTRICTS HIMSELF TO THE OCCUPATION OF FIGHTING, BUYING FROM THOSE AT WHOSE EXPENSE HE PURSUES IT HIS WEEKLY SUPPLY OF PROVISIONS, AND MARCHING HOME WITH HIS diss, OR STRINGS OF CHOPS AND CUTLETS, FESTOONED FROM HIS SPEAR OR GARLANDED around his gallant brow. SUCH IS THE DRIFT OF THE TIMES. MANKIND IS BANDED AGAINST BRIGANDAGE. NEVER WAS AN ANCIENT AND HONORABLE PROFESSION SO SADLY UNDER THE WEATHER EVERYWHERE. WHEN IT FLARES UP INTO MOMENTARY LIFE IN SICILY OR ATTICA THE NEWSPAPERS SEIZE HOLD [Pg 276] [Pg 277] OF THE EVENT, A REPORTER IS PROMPTLY ON THE SPOT, AND THE BANDIT-CHIEF IS INTERVIEWED AS COOLLY AS THOUGH HE HAD MERELY SHOT HIS WIFE, BOUGHT A LEGISLATURE OR EFFECTED A TRIUMPHANT CORNER IN MESS PORK. SUCH DEPRESSING INFLUENCES CANNOT BUT WEAR DOWN THE NOBLEST CALLING. SICILY IS TAMED, AND CIRCASSIA, THE ASIATIC KABYLIA, NEARLY SO. A RECENT FRENCH TOURIST IN ALGERIA WAS MUCH STRUCK WITH CERTAIN RESEMBLANCES BETWEEN THE TWO MOUNTAIN-RACES SEPARATED BY THE LENGTH OF THE MEDITERRANEAN AND THE EUXINE. AT THE KABYLE ROCK-VILLAGE OF TIGHIL-BOUKBAIR THE TOWN BAND TURNED OUT TO RECEIVE HIM. IT CONSISTED OF A FLUTE AND TWO TAMBOURINES. BOTH THE INSTRUMENTS AND THE AIRS APPEARED TO HIM IDENTICAL WITH THOSE TO WHICH HE HAD LISTENED IN THE GORGES OF FROSTY CAUCASUS. AT TIFLIS HE HAD "ASSISTED" AT A CONCERT ALMOST THE DUPLICATE OF THE AFRICAN ENTERTAINMENT. TO MAKE THE RESEMBLANCE PERFECT, IT WOULD HAVE SUFFICED, HE SAYS, TO STRIP THE CAUCASIANS TO a single undergarment. THE SAME SEEKER OF THE PICTURESQUE DESCRIBES A WAYSIDE SCENE CHARACTERISTIC ALIKE OF LANDSCAPE, DRESS AND MANNERS. WHAT CAN BE MORE SENSATIONAL THAN A DRAUGHT OF SPRING-WATER, UNDER THE SHADOW OF A GREAT ROCK IN A WEARY LAND, FROM THE HOLLOWED PALM OF A KABYLE GIRL SURROUNDED BY HER JUNIORS ARRAYED IN A COSTUME THAT CAN NEITHER BE DESCRIBED NOR EXPRESSED, FOR THE SIMPLE REASON THAT IT DOES NOT EXIST? A GROUP LIKE THIS CARRIES US BACK TO WITHIN EASY HAIL OF THE PRIMAL SIMPLICITY OF EDEN. AND A PERIOD LITTLE LATER THAN THAT OF ADAM AND EVE IS SUGGESTED BY THE EXPERIENCE OF THE SAME TRAVELLER AT HIS HALT A FEW HOURS LATER. AS ABRAHAM, ACCORDING TO THE CUSTOM OF HIS DAY, WAS READY FOR THE THREE ANGELS WITH A SUBSTANTIAL LUNCH, SO THE OFFICIAL FRENCHMAN IS THE BENEFICIARY OF A REGULATION WHICH ENTITLES HIM TO AN ABUNDANT diffa, OR PROVENDER FOR MAN, HORSE AND ATTENDANTS, SUPPLIED BY THE NEAREST VILLAGE. THE GAUL IS NOT ALWAYS AN ANGEL, BUT HIS APPETITE IS NONE THE WORSE FOR THAT. BUTTER DOES NOT USUALLY APPEAR IN THE BILL OF FARE, BUT ITS ABSENCE IS AMPLY ATONED FOR BY COUSCOUSSOU, OR AFRICAN VERMICELLI, MUTTON, BOILED FOWLS, HONEY AND SOUR MILK. THIS REPAST IS SERVED UPON FLAT SHALLOW DISHES OF WOOD OR EARTHENWARE A FOOT AND A HALF IN DIAMETER, THE UNIVERSAL PLATTER OF KABYLIA, AND MUST BE A HIGHLY ACCEPTABLE SURPRISE IN THE DESERT. WINE IS NOT A PART OF THE REQUIRED RATION, THE NATIVE GRAPES, THOUGH DELICIOUS WHEN EATEN, NOT PERFORMING WELL IN THE PRESS AND VAT. EFFORTS ARE IN PROGRESS TO REMEDY THIS DEFECT AND MAKE ALGERIA A WINE-EXPORTING COUNTRY, BUT THE SUMMER HEAT IS PROBABLY TOO GREAT, AND THE NORTHERN EDGE OF THE VINE-ZONE WILL DOUBTLESS MAINTAIN ITS SUPREMACY OVER THE SOUTHERN, AND MAKE THE LOIRE, THE RHINE AND THE MIDDLE DANUBE LORDS OF THE VINTAGE FOR ALL TIME. YET THERE IS NO MORE PACIFYING INDUSTRY THAN WINE-MAKING, WHATEVER MAY BE SAID OF WINE-DRINKING; and the French anxiety to turn the Kabylian caves into wine-vaults is sensible and laudable. EDWARD C. BRUCE. A PADUAN HOLIDAY. ON THE MORNING OF SANT' ANTONIO'S DAY WE STROLLED THROUGH THE STREETS OF PADUA, SIDE BY SIDE WITH THE COUNTRY-FOLK WHO HAD COME FROM MILES AROUND TO OFFER UP THEIR PRAYERS AT THE SHRINE OF THE SAINT. SOME RODE JADED MULES OR WERE PACKED CLOSE IN GREAT MARKET-WAGONS. OTHERS TRUDGED ON FOOT, WITH THEIR DINNERS TIED UP IN BLUE COTTON HANDKERCHIEFS. THERE WERE BRONZED MEN IN HOMESPUN, WHO PUSHED STEADILY ON, AIDING THEMSELVES WITH MIGHTY UMBRELLAS; DARK-EYED GIRLS, WITH BRIGHT KERCHIEFS KNOTTED ABOUT THEIR HEADS OR CARNATIONS IN THEIR GLOSSY BRAIDS; SMART YOUNG contadini, WITH THEIR HATS TIED AFRESH WITH RIBBONS AND THEIR LONG BLUE HOSE DARNED ANEW. THE MURMURS OF THE CROWD, LOUD AND MERRY AND FULL OF BURSTS OF LAUGHTER, SOFTENED INTO A SOLEMN WHISPER AS THE MULTITUDE PRESSED ONWARD TO THE BROAD PIAZZA WHERE THE sanctuary of Sant' Antonio stands. ONE BY ONE THE PEOPLE LIFTED THE LEATHERN CURTAIN OF THE CHURCH-DOOR. THE MEN DOFFED THEIR HATS, THE WOMEN TOLD THEIR BEADS. AN AWED HUSH FELL UPON THOSE SIMPLE PEASANTS AS THEY GAZED UP AT THE VASTNESS OF THE ARCHES. THE WORLD OF THE WINEPRESS AND THE SILK-WEAVING AND THE SOUP-POT VANISHED FROM THEIR HEARTS, AND IN ITS PLACE CAME THE ILLIMITABLE CALM WHICH HOLDS THEM BOWED FOR HOURS AGAINST THE ALTAR-STEPS. BUT NOW THEY PRESS ON TOWARD THE SHRINE OF THE SAINT. THE CHOIR BURSTS INTO A TRIUMPHANT SHOUT THAT SEEMS TO COME FROM THE THROATS OF THE BRONZE ANGELS ABOUT THE ALTAR. THE CHANCEL IS A BLAZE OF LIGHT, AGAINST WHICH STAND TWO GREAT DARK BRONZE CANDELABRA LIKE SENTINELS OF THE TABERNACLE. THE STEPS BEFORE SANT' ANTONIO'S SHRINE ARE HALF BURIED UNDER THE GREAT WHITE LILIES THAT BEAR HIS NAME, AND THE TALL DARK ANGELS THAT KEEP GUARD ABOUT HIS TOMB BEAR SCEPTRES OF FRESH LILIES. THERE IS NO NEED OF THE SWINGING SILVER CENSERS. MYRRH AND FRANKINCENSE RISE, SWEET AND STRONG, FROM THE DEPTHS OF THE SNOWY CHALICES. THE CHILDREN KNEELING ABOUT THE ALTAR BEAR STALKS OF THE LILIES LIKE TALL WAXEN TAPERS, THAT WAVE TO AND FRO OVER THE SURGING HEADS OF THE MULTITUDE. THERE ARE CARVED PILLARS AROUND THE SHRINE BROUGHT FROM BYZANTIUM, AND GREAT WHITE MARBLE HEADS OF SAINTS AND HOLY MEN STAND OUT IN RELIEF FROM THE WALLS. SILVER LAMPS, BEAUTIFUL WITH SHINING CHAINS AND THE WINGED HEADS OF CHERUBIM, HANG FROM THE LOW VAULT, warming all the pale figures into life with the crimson glow of the flame within. A LITTLE BELL TINKLES. THERE IS A MURMUR OF VOICES AND A RUSTLE OF GARMENTS THROUGHOUT THE CHURCH. THE GOLDEN LIGHTS OF THE ALTAR DIE AWAY, ONE BY ONE. THE PEOPLE RISE FROM THEIR PRAYERS WITH THE WIDE-EYED, UNSEEING GAZE OF THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN WANDERING IN A FAR LAND. THEY HAVE CROSSED THE SEA WITH THE BLESSED ANTONIO; THEY HAVE FOLLOWED HIM INTO THE PRESENCE OF THE TERRIBLE EZZELIN, THE FEUDAL ENEMY OF PADUA; THEY HAVE HEARD HIM COMMAND THE TYRANT TO SET HIS CAPTIVES FREE; THEY HAVE ACCOMPANIED THE SAINT TO HIS HERMITAGE AMONG THE PURPLE OLIVE-HILLS ABOUT THE CITY; THEY HAVE STRUGGLED AND SUFFERED AND DIED WITH HIM, AND HAVE REJOICED AT LAST IN HIS APOTHEOSIS AND CANONIZATION. AND THEN, THE WAR BEING OVER, THE RACE OF EZZELIN EXPELLED, AND THE LORDS OF THE SOIL, THE CARRARAS, STRONG IN POWER, THEY SEE HOW THE HOLY BODY IS BROUGHT INTO THE TOWN TO PROTECT IT FOR EVER, AND A FAIR TEMPLE IS BUILT ABOVE ITS RESTING-PLACE TO PROVE THE PEOPLE'S GRATITUDE TO THE POWER THAT SET THEM FREE. THEY PRESS ABOUT THE MARBLE SARCOPHAGUS THAT HOLDS HIS POOR SKELETON, AND [Pg 278] STOOP AND KISS THE CLAMMY SURFACE WITH REVERENT LOOKS, OR TAKE THE BENEDICTION FROM THE HAND OF SOME NEIGHBOR WHO stands nearer the shrine, and utter a petition for the coming year. SEE THAT HIGH-BRED YOUNG GIRL IN HER SIMPLE BLACK DRESS, WITH HER NURSE BY HER SIDE, AND HER DARK EYES BRIGHT AND SOFT UNDER THEIR LONG LASHES. IT IS SOME SWEET BIANCA, WHO HAS LEFT HER HOME TO ESCAPE SISTER KATHARINE'S TAUNTS AND MAKE HEAVEN KNOWS WHAT BLUSHING VOW AT THE SHRINE OF THE KIND SAINT. SEE HOW HER SOFT LIPS CARESS THE FEET OF THE BRONZE ANGEL WITH THE LILIES IN HIS HAND. DO YOU MARK THOSE BOLD, BLACK, HANDSOME EYES DEVOURING HER FACE FROM ACROSS THE CROWD OF LOW-STATURED PEASANTS? IT IS SOME WILD YOUTH FROM THE UNIVERSITY, YOU SAY? AY, ONE LUCENTIO OF PISA, A NOBLE GENTLEMAN, WHOSE FATHER HAS SENT HIM TO PADUA TO STUDY THOSE PARTS OF PHILOSOPHY THAT TREAT OF HAPPINESS. BIANCA KNOWS not how near her fate lies—knows not that to-morrow the new master of music and languages will present himself at her FATHER'S DOOR AND TRY HIS SKILL IN TRANSLATION, AND CARRY OFF THE SWEET PRIZE UNDER THE VERY BEARDS OF THE REVEREND WOOERS of Padua. CHURCH OF SANT' ANTONIO. CHURCH OF SANT' ANTONIO. OH HORROR! THERE COMES SISTER KATHARINE! BLESSED VIRGIN, HELP US TO ESCAPE BEFORE SHE SEES US, OR THERE WILL BE NO peace in the house for a week. Come, nurse! quick! And Bianca flutters off in affright, and is lost in the crowd. THERE SHE COMES, BONNY KATE—A SMALL, SLIGHT CONSEQUENTIAL PERSON, DRESSED IN A ROBE OF THAT BRILLIANT GREEN OF THE northern Italian painters. She wants no nurse—not she! She would go from Padua to the farthest country on Fra Paolo's MAP ON THE STRENGTH OF HER BITING TONGUE AND HER SNAPPING GREEN EYES. "MAKE WAY," SHE ORDERS, "YOU LOW, VILE BRUTES!" AND THE PEASANTS DRAW BACK AND LOOK ASKANCE AT HER, AND THE WOMEN MUTTER UNDER THEIR BREATH, AND THE GIRLS LAUGH A LOW LAUGH. SEE HER KISS HER HAND AND LAY IT ON THE MARBLE. SHE WILL NOT TOUCH HER LIPS TO IT FOR FEAR OF CONTAMINATION. SHE HURLS AN ANGRY OATH AT THE MARKET-WOMAN STANDING NEAR WITH HER HENS TIED UP IN HER KERCHIEF, BECAUSE SHE CROWDS SO CLOSE THAT THE HUNGRY BIRDS PECK AT THE SILVER GALLOON OF HER SLEEVE. AY, PRETTY KATE, YOU ARE ARROGANT NOW. BUT WAIT A little. Here comes Petruchio, a most unwholesome sight for a summer's day. Get thee gone in haste, fair Kate! SEE HOW HE STALKS ON THROUGH THE CROWD, WITH HIS RIDING-WHIP IN HIS HAND, NOW CUTTING GOOD-HUMOREDLY AT A SMALL BOY'S LEGS, NOW PLAYFULLY THROTTLING A RUDDY PEASANT-GIRL WITH THE LONG LASH. HIS CLOTHES ARE TORN AND MUDDY. HE WEARS A NEW hat and an old jerkin, and a pair of old breeches, thrice turned. He has ridden into town on the sorriest nag ever bred on THE PLAINS OF LOMBARDY. SEE HIM STRIDE UP TO THE SHRINE OF SANT' ANTONIO. DO YOU THINK HE WILL KISS THAT FILTHY STONE, WITH THE IMPRESS OF SO MANY FOUL MOUTHS UPON IT? HE CUTS AT IT WITH HIS WHIP UNTIL THE PEOPLE START BACK IN AFFRIGHT AND THE WIND BLOWS HALF THE LAMPS OUT, AND THE PRIEST WOULD GLADLY LAUNCH A MALEDICTION AT HIS HEAD, BUT THAT HE KNOWS HIS MAN, for Petruchio's pranks with the clergy are the talk of all Padua. HE IS THE DELIGHT OF THE UNIVERSITY LADS, THIS MAD FELLOW FROM VERONA. SEE HOW THEY CROWD ABOUT HIM AS HE STALKS DOWN THE NAVE, AND CRAVE A LOOK OR A SALUTE FROM THEIR BULLY HERO! THEY LAY BETS IN LECTURE-HOURS AS TO WHETHER HE WILL SUCCEED in taming that young shrew, Baptista's daughter. BE SURE THE MOORISH PRINCE AND HE OF ARRAGON STOPPED WITH THEIR TRAINS TO ASK THE SAINT'S PROTECTION WHEN THEY WENT TO [Pg 279] [Pg 280] WOO FAIR PORTIA. AND THE LADY HERSELF, AFTER THAT GOOD DEED DONE IN VENICE, WHEN SHE WENT PRAYING ABOUT AT HOLY CROSSES, CRAVED THE SAINT'S BLESSING ON HER LORD, BASSANIO. HE TOO, I WAGER, MEDITATED HERE ON HIS LADY AND HIS FRIEND. They crowd, a shadowy multitude, about the gleaming sepulchre under the crimson glow of the silver lamps. WE WANDERED ON, PAST THE CARVED CHAPEL-GATES, THE WROUGHT BRONZE LAMPS, THE INCENSE-CLOUDS AND THE SILVER-WHITE LILIES, OUT INTO THE TOMB-FILLED CLOISTERS. THERE THEY LIE, CHEEK BY JOWL—OLD PROFESSORS FROM THE UNIVERSITY IN CAP AND GOWN, HIGH UP UNDER THE ARCHES; OLD WARRIORS IN ARMOR, WITH THEIR GRIFFINS AND LIONS AT THEIR FEET, AND SLAVES BEARING SCROLLS WITH THEIR NAMES AND EXPLOITS REGISTERED THEREON. OLD COUNCILLORS AND SYNDICS IN ROBE AND RUFF, NOBLE WOMEN IN VEIL AND coif, lie side by side with some brave young heart that shed its life's blood for united Italy. PADUAN CAFFÉ. PADUAN CAFFÉ. OLD DRAGONS AND MONSTERS AND WIDE-MOUTHED CHERUBIM LEER DOWN FROM THE GRAY SEPULCHRES. FROM UNDER THE POINTED ARCHES, BLOSSOMING WITH PALM-LEAVES AND SWEET STONE CHILD-FACES, YOUNG PAINTED ANGELS, SOFT-EYED, LONG-HAIRED, IN PINK AND BLUE ROBES, SMILE DOWN FROM THE GOLD BACKGROUND, WITH EMBLEMS OF RESURRECTION IN THEIR HANDS, LIKE FLOWERS SPRINGING FROM THE DUST BENEATH. HERE AND THERE, HIGH UP UNDER THE CORNICE OF SOME OLD GOTHIC TOMB, IS A ROUND-EYED FRESCOED MADONNA WATCHING THE SLUMBERS OF AN OLD KNIGHT WHOSE BED-CURTAIN IS UPHELD BY LONG-ARMED SAINTS. POMPOUS AND GRIM AND FANTASTIC AND SULLEN BY TURNS, THESE TOMBS WOULD MAKE THE HEART OF THE STRANGER ACHE WITH THEIR MOCKERY, BUT THAT THE LIVING SUNLIGHT STREAMS ATHWART THE HARD STONE FACES AND THE MONSTER HEADS, AND IN THE QUADRANGLE OF THE CLOISTER THE LILIES ARE STANDING LIKE WHITE-ROBED HEAVENLY HOSTS, AND A WELL UPHELD BY ANGELS RISES UP FROM THE RANK meadow-space. The purple clover runs riot among the grass. There is humming of bees about the golden lily-hearts, and a red butterfly loses its way now and then among the graves. THERE IS THE RUSTLE OF GHOSTLY GARMENTS IN THE SILENT AIR—THE FALL OF SHADOWY FEET UPON THE GRAVE-LINED PAVEMENTS. A WHITE-ROBED, SHINING MULTITUDE OF PHILOSOPHERS AND SAGES IS FOR EVER PACING UP AND DOWN THE SUNNY GALLERY DISCOURSING OF GREAT AND HIGH THINGS, LIKE THE BLESSED IN THE Paradise OF DANTE. A GOODLY COMPANY WERE THEY WHO WALKED THERE OF OLD. HERE CAME GIOTTO, PALE-BROWED AND THOUGHTFUL, DISCOURSING WITH HIS FRIEND, OLD PIETRO DI ABANO, WIZARD, ASTROLOGER AND LEARNED PHYSICIAN, OF THE DESIGNS HE WAS TO GIVE HIM FOR THE FRESCOING OF THE NEW PALACE OF REASON THAT THE CITY WAS ERECTING. WITH THEM, PERCHANCE, WALKED THE GREAT TUSCAN, FOR HE KNEW AND LOVED THEM BOTH, AND ALL THREE, THE SEER, THE POET AND THE PAINTER, BROODED OVER THE INNER FORCES OF NATURE AND BARED THEIR SOULS TO REVELATION. HITHER CAME PETRARCH, WORN WITH THE POMP OF COURTS, YET FLUSHED WITH MODEST PRIDE AT THE NEW CLERICAL DIGNITY CONFERRED UPON HIM BY HIS FRIEND THE CARRARA, LOOKING BACK UPON HIS PAST LIFE WITH PHILOSOPHIC CALM, BIDDING NO MAN JUDGE THE DAY TILL THE EVENING BE PAST, YET NOW AND AGAIN FEELING THE OLD WAVES OF PASSION SURGE THROUGH HIS HEART, BREATHING A PRAYER FOR THE REPOSE OF HIS DEAD LOVE AND A SIGH FOR THOSE SWEET, FAR-OFF DAYS OF HIS YOUTH. HERE TASSO, THE BEAUTIFUL YOUNG DREAMER, ESCAPING FROM THE DULL ROUND OF THE UNIVERSITY, THREW HIMSELF DOWN IN THE CLOVER BESIDE THE ANGELS OF THE WELL, AND SAW FAIR WHITE WOMEN WITH GOLDEN HAIR WREATHING THEIR ARMS ABOUT HIM, WHILE THE BEES AND THE BUTTERFLIES LAUGHED ALOUD AND CRIED, "POOR FOOL! HE DOES NOT KNOW THEY ARE ONLY LILIES." AND GALILEO, TEACHING THE WHILE THE DULL YOUTH OF THE SCHOOL, CAME TO GATHER STRENGTH IN THE THOUGHT OF THE GREAT FINALITY THAT WAS TO LAY HIM LOW BEYOND THE REACH OF THE INQUISITION, AND YET LIFT HIM FAR ABOVE ALL HUMAN GRANDEUR TO MATE WITH THE STARS THAT HAD BEEN HIS COMFORT THROUGH LONG YEARS OF PAIN. GREAT PAOLO SARPI, WHEN HE CAME DOWN FROM VENICE IN HIS MONK'S DRESS TO DISCOURSE WITH THE LEARNED MEN OF PADUA, WANDERED HERE WITH HIS MIND INTENT ON THE MIGHTY PROBLEMS OF THE UNIVERSE, ALL UNTHINKING OF THE ASSASSIN'S KNIFE THAT WAS TO EASE THE JEALOUSY OF THE ROMAN CARDINALS. HERE WANDERED THE APPRENTICE-BOY MANTEGNA, POOR AND HUMBLE, STEALING TIMIDLY IN BEHIND THE FURRED GOWNS AND THE GILDED CHAINS TO FEAST HIS POOR LITTLE ARTIST-SOUL UPON THE FRIGHTENED YOUNG MADONNAS AND WIDE-EYED ANGELS THAT LOOK OUT TIMIDLY FROM THE ARCHES OF THE SEPULCHRES. WHAT GRAND OLD PHANTOMS GLIDE ON BY THE SIDE OF THE LAUGHING STUDENT-LADS, AND THE OLD MARKET-WOMEN IN RED KERCHIEFS WHO TELL THEIR BEADS IN CORNERS, AND THE YOUNG GIRLS WHO GATHER THE LONG STALKS OF SEED-GRASS FROM THE QUADRANGLE AND WHISPER TO THEM TIMID QUESTIONS concerning their absent lovers! On the great square in front of the church were booths filled with bright flowers and early fruit and cheap sweetmeats, at WHICH THE PEASANTS WERE HAGGLING AND CHAFFERING AND FILLING THEIR BLUE HANDKERCHIEFS. THE SAINTS AND PROPHETS RAISED THEIR [Pg 281] [Pg 282] HANDS IN BLESSING FROM THE BLOSSOMING SPIRES. OVER THE WAY, IN THE INN OF THE "TWO WHITE CROSSES," THE FARMERS WERE DINING. THE LAUGHTER FLOATED OUT THROUGH THE OPEN WINDOWS, AND A MAN APPEARED AT THE DOOR AND SCATTERED CHERRIES TO THE CROWD. BY THE SIDE OF THE CHURCH WAS A GREAT SEPULCHRE, HORRIBLE WITH DEMON-HEADS AND PICTURES OF THE SINNERS IN PURGATORY. ABOVE THE HEADS OF THE CROWD, HIGH ON A PEDESTAL, SAT A BRONZE WARRIOR ON A FIERY CHARGER. IT IS OLD GATTAMELATA, THE condottiere OF THE VENETIAN FORCES IN THE LONG WARS WITH PADUA. HIS BODY LIES WITHIN THE CHURCH, AND his effigy is the work of one Donatello, famous in Tuscan art. WE FOLLOWED THE CROWD ALONG THE WHITE-WALLED STREET TO THE GREAT MARKET-SQUARE THE PEOPLE CALL THE PRATO DELLA VALLE. IN THE MIDDLE WAS A CIRCULAR SPACE OF MEADOW, WITH TREES ABOVE IT, SURROUNDED BY A MOAT, ABOVE WHICH STAND LIFE-SIZE STATUES OF WARRIORS AND POETS AND NOBLES AND PHILOSOPHERS, BLACKENED WITH THE DAMP AND MOULD OF CENTURIES, THE FOLDS OF THEIR GOWNS BATTERED AND GRASS-GROWN, THEIR NOSES MISSING, THEIR EYES PUT OUT BY STONES IN THE WELL-NERVED HANDS OF RIOTOUS YOUTH, THEIR SWORDS AND SCEPTRES BROKEN SHORT, THEIR POINTED BEARDS SNAPPED OFF INTO BLUNTNESS. ALL AROUND THE great piazza are arches with caffès and shops under them. Off at one end rises the massive front of Santa Giustina. THE BROAD PAVED SPACE BETWEEN THE ARCADES AND THE MOAT OF THE STATUES WAS THE SCENE OF A HORSE-FAIR. THE MOST MISERABLE ANIMALS THAT THE IMAGINATION CAN CONJURE UP, ALL THE GAUNT, GHOSTLY STEEDS THAT GRAZE IN THE PASTURES OF LEGEND AND FABLE, WERE GATHERED THERE, NEIGHING AND PAWING AS IMPATIENTLY AS THEIR HALF-STARVED SPIRITS WOULD ALLOW. BE SURE PETRUCHIO BOUGHT HIS FAMOUS STEED AT THE HORSE-FAIR OF PADUA, AND THAT HE TRIED THE BEAST'S SPEED, AS THESE PEASANTS DO, BY DRIVING HIM ROUND AND ROUND THE STATUES, RAISING A CLOUD OF WHITE DUST AND SCATTERING CROWDS OF GIRLS AND CHILDREN, who screamed with terror and prayed that the curse of Sant' Antonio might ever follow him. SUDDENLY, A SOUND AS OF KETTLEDRUMS AND CYMBALS AND SQUEAKING VIOLINS ROSE ABOVE THE NEIGHING AND BRAYING OF THE FAIR. IN FRONT OF SANTA GIUSTINA WERE A CIRCUS AND A WILD-BEAST SHOW AND A CROWD OF LESSER JUGGLERS AND CHARLATANS. OUTSIDE THE CIRCUS-BOOTH, HIGH UP ON A PLATFORM, STOOD THE CLOWNS IN THEIR DINGY FLESHINGS AND FADED SCARLET TRUNKS. THEY BLEW FURIOUSLY ON GREAT BRASS TRUMPETS UNTIL THEIR CHEEKS WERE PURPLE AND NIGH TO BURSTING UNDER ALL THE GHASTLY CHALK. THERE were ballerine IN DRAGGLED PINK TARLETAN PETTICOATS AND LOW WHITE BODICES THAT MADE THEIR BONY NECKS AND BRAWNY ARMS STILL BROWNER BY CONTRAST. THEY HAD HONEST, UNPAINTED FACES, AND WORE THEIR HAIR SCREWED UP TIGHTLY ON THE TOPS OF THEIR HEADS. THEY BORE TRACES OF EXPOSURE TO WIND AND RAIN. THEIR EYES HAD A KIND OF WISTFUL LOOK, AS THOUGH THEY WERE TIRED OF ALL THIS NOISE AND FOOLERY, AND WISHED THEMSELVES BACK AGAIN ON THE OLD OLIVE-FARMS WITH THEIR TOILING MOTHERS. THERE WAS SOMETHING IN THEIR DOGGED MOUTHS AND THE RESOLUTE MANNER IN WHICH THEY THUMPED THE BIG DRUMS AND CLASHED THE GREAT BRASS CYMBALS THAT TOLD OF THE THRESHING OF GRAIN AND THE TREADING OF THE WINEPRESS. THERE WERE GORGEOUS MATRONS IN THREADBARE VELVET AND TATTERED LACE HEAD-DRESSES WHO CAST GLANCES OF SWEETNESS UPON THE UNRESPONSIVE CROWD, AND CHEERED ON THE PANTING CLOWNS TO CRY OUT AT THE TOP OF THEIR POOR STRAINED LUNGS, "AVANTI, SIGNORI! AVANTI!" SMALL LITHE CHILDREN CLOTHED IN PINK TIGHTS, WITH JEWELLED CROWNS ON THEIR HEADS, DARTED IN AND OUT AMONG THE CURTAINS OF THE TENT, AND GAZED WITH A ROYAL AIR UPON THE OPEN-EYED, WONDERING LITTLE PEASANTS, ROUGH-SHOD AND CLOTHED IN HOMESPUN, WHO STOOD and worshipped them. NOT FAR FROM THE CIRCUS, UNDER A WOODEN TENT, A HALF SCORE OF MONSTERS WERE WHIRLING ROUND AND ROUND IN MAD RIVALRY— FISHES WITH ENORMOUS MOUTHS AND MIGHTY FINS, LIKE THE TERRIBLE "ORCO" OF ARIOSTO; WILD STEEDS WHOSE LEGS BLOSSOMED OUT INTO ACANTHUS-LEAVES, LIKE THE OLD GROTESQUES THAT LURK UNDER THE FERNS ABOUT THE BASINS OF THE VILLAGE FOUNTAINS; GREAT MYSTERIOUS BIRDS, WITH BIG EYES, AND GOLDEN CHAINS ABOUT THEIR NECKS; BEASTS WITH THE HEADS OF CATS AND THE BODIES OF DOGS, AS MONSTROUS AND FANTASTIC A CREW, FULL OF HIGH-COLORED, CONFUSED IMAGES, AS EVER RIOTED IN THE HIGH-STRUNG BRAIN OF SOME OLD cinque-cento POET. EACH OF THESE TERRIBLE MONSTERS HAD ITS RIDER—SOME LITTLE GOLDEN-CURLED CHILD, WHO CLUNG ABOUT THE NECK OF A CAT-HEADED DOLPHIN AND SHRIEKED WITH DELIGHT AT THE DANGER. SOME PALE SEWING-GIRL, WITH A TURRET OF POWDERED HAIR ABOVE HER SOFT FACE AND HER BLACK SHAWL THROWN LIKE A HABIT AROUND HER, SAT ERECT ON HER WHITE PALFREY, AND FOR A MOMENT HELD HERSELF THE EQUAL OF THE GREAT LADIES OF OTHER TIMES WHOSE FACES LOOKED DOWN UPON HER FROM THE CORRIDORS OF THE PALACES TO WHICH SHE WENT TO CARRY HOME HER WORK, AND HAUNTED HER AS SHE SAT ALONE IN HER LITTLE CHAMBER HIGH UP AMONG THE RED ROOFS. SOME STRAIGHT-LIMBED PEASANT-BOY, WITH A CLEAR-CUT FACE AND A RED FLOWER IN HIS HAT, BESTRIDING THE BLACK CHARGER WITH FIERY NOSTRILS, FELT HIS HEART SWELL WITH NOBLE LONGING AT SOME DIM MEMORY OF THE GLORIOUS DEEDS OF THE OLD WARRIORS OF PADUA THAT HIS GRANDMOTHER HAD RELATED TO HIM MANY A WINTER'S NIGHT WHEN THE CHESTNUTS WERE ROASTING ON THE HEARTH AND THE RAIN WAS RUSTLING THROUGH THE DEAD VINE-STALKS. TO HIM EVERY NOTE OF THE cracked trumpet was full of intoxication: it meant war and love and glory and heroic deeds. THERE ARE BROWN-FACED WOMEN IN TARNISHED SPANGLES TUMBLING ON SQUARES OF CARPET, WITH THEIR CHILDREN CROUCHING PATIENTLY ON THE BLUE HANDKERCHIEFS THAT CONTAIN THE FAMILY WARDROBE, WAITING FOR THEIR DINNER TO BE EARNED. THEY ARE ASSISTED BY WHITE CURLY POODLES, WITH PINK SHAVEN LEGS, SOLEMN FACES AND LONG EARS, WHICH MAKE THEM LOOK LIKE OLD PADUAN marchesi IN POWDERED WIGS. THEY MAKE THE CIRCUIT OF THE CARPET ON THEIR HIND LEGS, AND JUMP THROUGH HOOPS, AND PASS THE HAT AMONG THE BYSTANDERS, AND WATCH THE SLEEPING BABIES, AND CARRY THE WEIGHT OF THE WHOLE FAMILY UPON their meditative shoulders. THERE ARE TAME MAGPIES THAT TELL THE PEASANT-GIRLS' FORTUNES BY CHOOSING PRINTED SLIPS OF PAPER FROM A BOX, AND OTHERS THAT PREDICT THE WINNING NUMBERS OF NEXT WEEK'S LOTTERY. NOW AND THEN AN OLD MAGICIAN PASSES WHO HAS HORSE-HAIR CURLS REACHING TO HIS WAIST, A GREEN SHADE OVER HIS EYES, AND CARRIES SLUNG ABOUT HIS NECK A BOARD ON WHICH SITS A DRUGGED COCK OR A GREAT BLACK CAT. HE CONSULTS HIS FAMILIAR FOR ANSWERS TO THE QUESTIONS THAT ARE PUT TO HIM. THE PEASANTS FORM GROUPS ABOUT THE CHARLATANS AND TUMBLERS AND RING-THROWERS, AND THE SUNLIGHT STREAMS OVER THE HAPPY, CARELESS CROWD WITH A BLESSING. HOW MANY OF THEM KNOW THAT WHERE THEY STAND THE EARLY CHRISTIANS MET THEIR DEATH WITH PSALMS UPON their lips and the palm of martyrdom in their hands? [Pg 283] [Pg 284] THERE WAS ONE AMONG THOSE EARLY MARTYRS, A BEAUTIFUL YOUNG MAIDEN, NAMED GIUSTINA, WHOSE LIFE AND DEATH WERE FULL OF SUCH HEROIC LOVELINESS THAT IN LATER TIMES A MIGHTY CHURCH WAS RAISED IN HER HONOR NEAR THE SPOT OF THE SACRIFICE. THE BONES OF ALL HER FELLOW-MARTYRS WERE COLLECTED AND BURIED IN A VAULT WITHIN THE EDIFICE. IT IS A GREAT GRAY PILE, COLD AND SOLEMN AND AUSTERE, THAT RISES DARK BEHIND THE BRILLIANT GROUPS OF THE FAIR. ON EITHER SIDE OF THE GREAT STAIRCASE CROUCHES A STONE MONSTER, SOME MYSTERIOUS SYMBOL OF THE EARLY FAITH. TRADITION GIVES THEM THE NAMES OF THE PALADINS ROLAND AND OLIVER. THE ONE CLASPS THE FIGURE OF A CRUSADER BETWEEN ITS MIGHTY PAWS—THE OTHER, SOME MYSTICAL FOUR-FOOTED CREATURE. THEY LOOK DOWN UPON THE MERRY CROWDS WITH SOLEMN UNWINKING GAZE, LARGE-EYED AND MYSTERIOUS. THEY SEEM TO PUT THE OLD RIDDLE OF THE SPHINX TO THE TRAVELLER WHO PAUSES BY THEIR SIDE TO WATCH THE SURGING WAVES OF HUMAN LIFE THAT BEAT AGAINST THE BROAD STAIRWAY OF THE CHURCH. THE SEAL OF THE CENTURIES IS ON THEIR BROAD BROWS. THEY HAVE LOOKED down upon battle and tournament, upon success and defeat, upon life and death. THE HISTORY OF THE PRATO IS A STIRRING ITALIAN EPIC, SOME HEROIC Orlando OR Gerusalemme, WITH UNDERTONES OF MIRTH AND SATIRE. THERE THE PADUANS HELD THEIR MASQUES AND HOLIDAY-SHOWS; THERE ROSE THE MIGHTY CASTLE THAT WAS STORMED ON A FEAST-DAY BY ARMED MEN WITH MISSILES OF ORANGES AND POMEGRANATES; THERE STALKED DONATELLO'S MIGHTY WOODEN HORSE, TOWERING HIGH ABOVE THE CROWD IN THE CARNIVAL CAVALCADES; THERE, AFTER EZZELIN THE TERRIBLE HAD FOR YEARS ENRICHED THE GROUND WITH PADUAN BLOOD AND HUNG THE PADUAN BODIES HIGH ON GIBBETS, THE FREED AND HAPPY PEOPLE CELEBRATED THE EXPULSION OF THE TYRANT BY INSTITUTING THE FAMOUS HORSE-RACES, IN WHICH THE PRIZES WERE SCARLET CLOTH AND GLOVES AND A SPARROW-HAWK. HITHER CAME CHARLEMAGNE AND BARBAROSSA TO WITNESS THE GAMES HELD IN THEIR HONOR. FAIRS AND SHOWS AND CARNIVAL RIOT HAVE BEEN THE LOT OF THE PRATO FROM THE DAYS WHEN THE NUNS OF SANTA GIUSTINA SOLD IT TO THE TOWN, UNTIL NOW WHEN THE PADUAN LADIES DRIVE AROUND THE WEATHERBEATEN STATUES OF A SUNDAY WITH MIGHTY TOWERS OF HAIR ON THEIR HEADS AND ENORMOUS FANS SCREENING THEIR FACES. BUT THERE WERE TIMES WHEN THE PRATO ECHOED WITH THE NOISE OF BATTLE. BLOOD FLOWED THROUGH THE MOAT ABOUT THE STATUES SWIFTER THAN THE SLUGGISH WATERS OF TO-DAY. WHAT STERN, MIGHTY FIGURES HAVE THAT PRATO...

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