The Project Gutenberg eBook, Journeys and Experiences in Argentina, Paraguay, and Chile, by Henry Stephens This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: Journeys and Experiences in Argentina, Paraguay, and Chile Including a Side Trip to the Source of the Paraguay River in the State of Matto Grosso, Brazil, and a Journey Across the Andes to the Rio Tambo in Peru Author: Henry Stephens Release Date: January 18, 2014 [eBook #44692] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOURNEYS AND EXPERIENCES IN ARGENTINA, PARAGUAY, AND CHILE*** E-text prepared by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) Note: Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/journeysexperien00step Henry Stephens, Ph.D. Locust Pest in Argentina Estancia, Santa Isabel, Province Buenos Aires Snow in the Tropics Plaza Pringlés, San Luis, July, 1913 Reflection of Aconcagua Volcano in the Clouds above Valparaiso This rare phenomenon is occasionally seen in April and September at dawn. The mountain itself is invisible from Valparaiso. Journeys and Experiences in Argentina, Paraguay, and Chile Including a side trip to the source of the Paraguay River in the State of Matto Grosso, Brazil, and a journey across the Andes to the Rio Tambo in Peru By Henry Stephens Harvard, A.B., Vienna, Ph.D. FIRST EDITION The Knickerbocker Press New York 1920 Copyright BY HENRY STEPHENS 1920 TO MR. H. L. MENCKEN, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND WHO IS CONSIDERED TO BE AMERICA'S FOREMOST CRITIC OF LITERATURE I GLADLY DEDICATE THIS BOOK OF TRAVELS CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE Montevideo 1 Experience in landing. Population of the city. Conservativeness of the inhabitants. Gambling establishment at Playa Ramirez. Train ride to Colonia. CHAPTER II Buenos Aires 21 Population of the city. Streets and architecture. High cost of living. Hotels. Beverages. Street beggars and vagabonds. Mariano Moreno College. Habit of not bathing. Jews. La Plata. CHAPTER III San Luis 62 Appearance of the city. Capitol. Plazas. Hotels. Neighboring country. Character of the natives. Train ride to Mendoza. CHAPTER IV Mendoza 78 Viticulture. Fruit growing. Wheat. Population and appearance of the city. Earthquake of 1861. Cerrito de la Gloria. Hotels. Aconcagua. Cacheuta. Across the Andes. Arrival in town of Los Andes. CHAPTER V Salta and Tucumán 101 Train ride to Salta. Lerma Valley. Province of Salta. Chuchu fever. Population of the city of Salta. 20th of February Club. Churches and San Francisco Monastery. Population of the city of Tucumán. Capitol. Governor Padilla. Heat of the city. Hotel Savoy. Kirwin the photographer. Villa Nougués. CHAPTER VI Córdoba 130 Province of Córdoba. Description of the city of Córdoba. Great number of consumptives. Breweries. Streets, religious edifices, and hotels. Sierra de Córdoba. Cosquin. Locust pest. Rosario; its hotels. Pergamino. Mercedes. CHAPTER VII Asuncion 155 Train ride from Buenos Aires. Population of Paraguayan districts and towns. Don Eduardo Schaerer. Currency. Colonnades. Pavement of Asuncion's streets. Oratory of Lopez. Climate, rains, and reptiles. Madame Lynch. Hotels. Mangrullo Cemetery. Market-place. Cigars. Low cost of living. Asuncene womanhood. Unmorality. Ypacara-i. CHAPTER VIII To the Source of the Paraguay River 195 River scenery. Villa Concepcion. San Salvador. State of Matto Grosso. Corumbá. Lawlessness. By water to Cuyabá. City of Cuyabá. Huber. Detour to source of river. Bog and pool. Huber becomes ill; his death. Diamantino. Return to Buenos Aires by river. Yerba maté. CHAPTER IX Santiago 226 Republic of Chile. Central Valley. Longitudinal railways. Paucity of factories. Breweries. The Chileno. Illegitimacy. Fiesta of the Angelito. Reception in Santiago. Compactness of the city; its streets. Installation of the president. Military parade. American ambassador. Hotels. High death rate. General Cemetery. Apoquindo. CHAPTER X Baths of Cauquenes. Chiloé Island. Lake Nahuel. Huapi 263 Rancagua. Baths of Cauquenes. Hostelry. Horseback ride to Los Lirios. Linares. Panimávida. Araucania and its native inhabitants. Temuco. Valdivia. Osorno. Fire at Osorno. Ancud. Castro. Lake Llanquihue. El Tronador Puella. Puerto Blest. Lake Nahuel Huapi. San Carlos de Bariloche. CHAPTER XI Chillán. Ascent of the Volcano Chillán 312 [vi] [vii] Description of the city. Hotel de France. Earthquake. Chillán Viejo. Birthplace of O'Higgins. Journey to Las Termas de Chillán. Establishment of Las Termas. Gambling. Episode of the administrator's brother. Snowfields and glaciers. Eruption of volcano. Don Vicente Mendez U. Curicó. CHAPTER XII Northward to Antofagasta by Rail. Copiapó, Antofagasta, and Iquique 347 Greenberg's adventure. San Felipe. Jahuel. Palm groves. Choapa Valley. Illapel. La Serena. Vallenar. Oasis of Copiapó. Retrogressant provincial capital. Professor Platner. Desert. Prosperity of Antofagasta. Strict prohibition laws. Bubonic plague. Pestilential Tocopilla. Description of Iquique. CHAPTER XIII Arica to Ilo Overland, via Tacna, Tarata, and Moquegua. Mollendo 387 Dr. Petit. Morro of Arica. Dispute between Chile and Peru over Tacna and Arica. Architect Pitaud. Description of Tacna. Peculiar architecture. Hotel Raiteri. Don Santiago Carmona. Caplina Valley. Ascending the Andes, Tarata. Parish priest. Tales of buried treasure. Hacienda Carmona. Ticalco and Sama Valleys. Stupidity of Peruvian jefe politico. Ilabaya. Dishonest cholo and Prat's spree. Don José Vergara. Moquegua. Ilo. Stinking Mollendo. Arrival at Callao. CHAPTER XIV Lima 434 Architecture of Callao. Mixed population of Lima and its seaport. Origin of Lima. Rimac River. Interesting city. Its population. Confusion of street names. Concepcion Market. Religious edifices and procession of El Milagro. Hotels and cafés. Difficulty in getting money changed. Crookedness of post office officials. General Cemetery. Viceroys of Peru. CHAPTER XV Across the Cordillera to the Rio Tambo 470 Departure from Oroya. Across the Cumbre. Tarma. Valley of the Rio Palca. Huacapistana. Tropical vegetation. Swinging bridges. San Ramon. La Merced and the Chanchamayo River. Chuncho, Campas, and Cashibo Indians. Perené Colony. Down the Ucayali. Iquitos. Head hunting Indians. CHAPTER XVI Business Prospects in Argentina, Paraguay, and Chile 496 Knowledge of Spanish and of the Latin character a necessity. Companies should be fully capitalized. Wheat belt of Argentina. Argentina poor in fuel and in minerals. Zona del Riego. Flour mills and beef canning factories. Stock raising and great ranches. Tannic acid factories. Grafting politicians. Breweries and sugar mills. Yerba maté industry in Paraguay. Bright outlook for Chile. Topography of the country. Nitrate, minerals, and viticulture. Breweries. Enamel works. Railroads of Chile. Great need of good hotels. ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Henry Stephens, Ph.D. Locust Pest in Argentina Snow in the Tropics Reflection of Aconcagua in the Clouds above Valparaiso Frontispieces [viii] [ix] Colonia, Uruguay 19 Congress Building, Buenos Aires 23 Buenos Aires Types 25 Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires 27 Mr. Oliver H. Lane 29 Calle Bartolome Mitré, Buenos Aires 31 Fireman and Policeman, Buenos Aires 33 Zoölogical Garden, Buenos Aires 35 Scene on the River at Tigre 53 Station of the Southern Railway, La Plata 55 Old Railway Station, La Plata 56 Bank of the Argentine Nation, La Plata 57 Bank of the Province of Buenos Aires, La Plata 58 Allegorical Statue of La Plata 59 Unfinished Cathedral, La Plata 60 Plaza San Martin, Mercedes 63 Street in San Luis 65 Bank of the Argentine Nation, San Luis 66 Capitol, San Luis 68 Matriz Church, San Luis 70 Estancia near San Luis 73 Statue of San Martin, Mendoza 84 [x] Avenida San Martin, Mendoza 85 Monument to the Army of the Andes, Mendoza 89 Waiting for the Train at Cacheuta 94 On the Terrace at Cacheuta 95 Thermal Establishment at Cacheuta 97 One of the Diversions at Cacheuta that is neither Bathing nor Gambling 98 Steps at Cacheuta Leading from the Railroad Station to the Hotel 99 Güemes 107 Cathedral and Bishop's Palace, Salta 109 Tomb in Cemetery, Salta 113 Calle Mitre, Salta 116 Capitol, Tucumán 121 Calle Laprida, Tucumán 123 Residence of Dr. Juan C. Nougués, San Pablo 127 Country House at Villa Nougués 128 Northern Market, Córdoba 133 Cathedral of Córdoba 137 Residence of Martin Ferreyra, Córdoba 138 Church of Santa Teresa, Córdoba 139 Zoölogical Garden, Córdoba 141 Corner of Plaza San Martin, Córdoba 142 Bridge on Road to Dique San Roque 144 [xi] Courthouse, Rosario 147 Street Scene, Rosario 148 Plaza 25 de Mayo, Rosario 149 Street Scene, Rosario 150 Calle San Nicolas, Pergamino 151 Plaza 25 de Mayo, Pergamino 152 Street in Mercedes 153 Scene from Railroad Station at Villa Rica 162 Casa de Gobierno, or Capitol, Asuncion 167 Drawing Showing Construction of Colonnades on a Paraguayan Building 170 Cabildo, or City Hall, Asuncion 171 Plazoleta del Puerto, Asuncion 172 Calle Palmas, Asuncion 173 Calle 15 de Agosto, Asuncion 174 Street Scene, Outskirts of Asuncion 175 Mangrullo Cemetery, Asuncion 184 Street Scene, Cuyabá 205 Street Scene, Outskirts of Cuyabá 206 Source of the Paraguay River 213 House in Diamantino where Huber Died 220 Diagram Showing Idea of Central Valley of Chile in Relationship to the Andes Mountains and the Coast Range, with Course of Streams 227 Scenery, Central Valley of Chile 229 [xii] Village Scene, Central Chile 230 The Valdivia Breweries Company, Valdivia 233 Santa Lucia Hill, Santiago 239 General View of Santiago from Santa Lucia Hill 241 Alameda, Santiago 242 Calle Huerfanos, Santiago 243 Modern Residence on the Alameda, Santiago 244 Calle Ejercito Liberador, Santiago 245 Fountain in Santiago 247 President Don Juan Luis Sanfuentes of Chile with Cabinet 248 Monument of Don Pedro Montt, Cementerio Jeneral, Santiago 249 View Looking West on Compañia Street from Estado at the Plaza de Armas, Santiago 251 Cathedral Street, Santiago 252 Mapocho River near Santiago 256 Street in Nuñoa, Chile 261 Plaza O'Higgins, Rancagua 264 Calle Bresil, Rancagua 265 Street in Rancagua 266 Gorge of the Cachapoal at Baños de Cauquenes 268 Main Street of Linares 277 Panimávida 278 Bridge over the Malleco River at Collipulli 283 [xiii] Street in Temuco 287 Plaza de la Republica, Valdivia 289 Calle-Calle River at Valdivia, Showing Flour Mills 291 Street in Valdivia 292 Riñihue Landscape, Southern Chile 293 Osorno 295 Scenery on the Railroad between Osorno and Puerto Montt 297 Indian Belles, Chiloé Island, Chile 301 Lake Todos Santos from Petrohué 304 Puella 306 El Tronador, Chile 308 San Carlos de Bariloche 311 Plaza O'Higgins, Chillán 314 Calle Roble, Chillán, Looking East from Calle Arauco 315 Street in Chillán 316 Market Place, Chillán 317 Scene at the Station at Pinto 322 Post Station at La Dehesa 323 Harvesting Scene at La Dehesa 324 Mountain in the Renegado Canyon, Chile 325 Corral of Las Trancas 326 Forest in the Province of Ñuble, Chile 327 [xiv] Scene on the Road to Termas de Chillán 328 Termas de Chillán 329 Casuchas at Termas de Chillán 330 Mr. Henry Stephens 333 Mr. Hugo Gumprecht 333 View towards the Argentine Frontier from the Slopes of Volcano Chillán 334 Glacier Covered with Fresh Snow on the Volcano 335 Rim of the Crater of Volcano Chillán During Eruption 337 Snow Fields of Volcano Chillán 337 From the Slopes of Volcano Chillán 339 Savedra, Gumprecht, and Prat on Lava Fields of Volcano Chillán 339 Mountain Scenery and Waterfall at Las Trancas 343 Church in San Felipe 348 City Hall, San Felipe 349 Street in San Felipe 352 Street in Almendraz 353 Jahuel 356 Ocoa 359 Street in Vallenar 362 Alameda in Copiapó 363 Monument Erected in Honor of Atacama's Illustrious Dead, Copiapó 364 Main Street of Copiapó 365 [xv] Main Street of Copiapó 366 Outskirts of Copiapó 367 Hovels on the Outskirts of Copiapó 368 Cemetery, Copiapó 369 Plaza Colon, Antofagasta 374 Provincial Capitol Building, Antofagasta 375 Street in Antofagasta 377 Street in Tocopilla 380 Cemeteries at Tocopilla 382 Street in Iquique 384 Street in Iquique 385 Cemetery, Iquique 386 Custom House, Arica 388 Street in Arica 389 Capitol Building at Tacna 392 Street in Tacna Showing Earthquake Proof Houses 393 Calle Bolivar, Tacna 394 Fountain in Tacna 395 Unfinished Cathedral in Tacna 396 Style of Tacna Architecture 397 Old Residence, Tacna 398 Street in Tacna 399 [xvi] Calle Miller, Tacna 400 Alameda, Tacna 401 Street in Tarata 406 Street in Ilabaya, Peru 423 Alameda, Moquegua 426 Street in Moquegua 428 Street in Moquegua 429 Callao Harbor 435 Puente Vieja, Lima, as Seen from the Bed of the Rimac 438 Calle Huallaga, Lima 440 Plaza Italia, Lima. Vendors of Bread 441 Plazuela de la Inquisicion, Lima 442 Boulevard in Lima 444 Façade of San Augustin Church, Lima 447 Procession of the Milagro, Lima 449 Cercado Church, Lima 460 Tomb of the Goyeneche Family, in the General Cemetery, Lima 461 Mr. Kurt Waldemar Linn of New York 462 Mr. Linn of New York Rising out of the Tomb Erected in Honor of the Peruvian Heroes of the Pacific War, 1879-1882 463 Corpse Bearer, General Cemetery, Lima 464 Putting a Coffin into a Niche, General Cemetery, Lima 465 Llamas at Casapalca 474 [xvii] Tarma, Peru 477 Cemetery, Tarma 479 Argentine Plazas. Plate No. I 521 Argentine Plazas. Plate No. II 523 Chilean Plazas. Plate No. III 525 Map Showing Route Taken by Author At End Journeys and Experiences in Argentina, Paraguay, and Chile CHAPTER I MONTEVIDEO In my former book, South American Travels, I made a statement relative to the pronunciation of the word "Montevideo" as follows: "Many foreigners make the mistake of pronouncing the name of the city with the accent on its penultima 'e'. Each syllable should be pronounced alike, with no distinction made as onto which syllable the accent falls." I have since found out that I was wrong, and am convinced so by my losing a ten-dollar bet with a gentleman relative to the pronunciation of the Uruguayan metropolis. Montevideo has its accent on the penultima. The word is derived from the Latin "Montem video" the final m in montem having been dropped to facilitate pronunciation. Its site was first discovered by Magellan in 1520, and as the 493 feet high dun-colored cerro, which dominates the western side of the harbor on whose shores the city is now built, appeared on the occidental horizon, somebody at the bow of the ship yelled out, "Montem video" ("I see a mountain"), which words gave the city its present name. It can be safely assumed that the man at the bow who uttered the Latin exclamation was a priest or a friar because who amongst a crew of sailors and adventurers would have a knowledge of Latin unless it was a man who had taken Holy Orders? The Spaniards and Portuguese in those days never embarked on any expedition without taking some of these gentry along. Montevideo is sometimes called "Queen of La Plata" on account of its cleanliness, haughty reserve, and aristocratic appearance; more often has it been styled "Modern Troy" due to decades of internecine strife, anarchy, revolutions, and a Ten Years' War. Now that there has been quietude for several years, with prospects of continued peace, it is unfair to its inhabitants to liken it to the prehistoric city at the southeastern end of the Hellespont. Several times during the years 1915 and 1916, I visited Montevideo, having made occasional trips from Buenos Aires, but an episode connected with my last advent on Uruguayan shores will take an indefinitely long time to erase it from my memory. It was like this: On February 17, 1916, I had embarked on the Lamport & Holt steamship Vestris at La Plata for Montevideo to bid farewell to friends returning to the United States. The steamer was scheduled to sail from Montevideo at 2 P.M. the next day. When that time came I was in the dining room, and was so engrossed in a conversation that appealed to me that I never heard the ringing of bells and the blowing of whistles that denote that an ocean leviathan is about to get under way. Suddenly an acquaintance, Mr. Lynn B. Packer of Norwich, N. Y., ran into the dining room calling out: "The ship is in motion, Stephens, we are in for it!" We both ran up the stairs and onto the deck. True enough, the Vestris was sailing but at a snail's pace, and the anchor was being pulled up. The lighter containing the visitors had left and was now but a black speck behind the breakwater. Not even a fishing boat was in sight. We ran to the port side, and saw a few hundred feet away a rowboat in which were two men pulling away. We yelled to them and waved our handkerchiefs; they stopped. We took off our coats and waved them also; they swung their rowboat around and rowed back towards us. A steward and a couple of sailors got a rope-ladder which they hung over the railing of the deck, and down this Packer and myself clambered, and jumped into the rowboat which had now reached the sides of the Vestris. The two men of the rowboat now pulled out to let the ocean liner pass by, so as not to get caught in the vortex of water caused by the propellers. The sea was rough; a leaden sky cast a gloomy canopy over the leaden water; to the left rose the dun-colored cerro crowned by its prison and lighthouse. In the background nearly two miles away, seemed to rise in tiers, the somber [1] [2] [3]