ȷ ERUSALEM IS RAEL AND THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 001-003_EW_Jerusalem.indd 2 23/11/2018 12:56 EW HALF-TITLE / TITLE TEMPLATE V1.1 – 22ND MAY 2018 FONTS: POSTERAMA TEXT ȷ ERUSALEM IS RAEL AND THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 001-003_EW_Jerusalem.indd 2 23/11/2018 12:56 EW HALF-TITLE / TITLE TEMPLATE V1.1 – 22ND MAY 2018 FONTS: POSTERAMA TEXT EYEWITNESS ȷ ERUSALEM IS RAEL AND THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 001-003_EW_Jerusalem.indd 3 23/11/2018 12:56 CONTENTS 004-005_EW_Jerusalem.indd 4 23/11/2018 16:24 EW Contents template v1.2 – 4th July 2018 Fonts: Posterama Text DISCOVER JERUSALEM, ISRAEL AND THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 6 Welcome .............................................................8 Jerusalem, Israel and the Palestinian Territories Your Way ........28 Reasons to Love ..........................................10 A Year In ...........................................................46 Explore ................................................................14 A Brief History ..............................................48 Getting to Know ............................................16 Itineraries .........................................................20 EXPERIENCE JERUSALEM 62 Mount of Olives Muslim Quarter ....................................66 and City of David ...............................128 Jewish Quarter .....................................86 Jerusalem City Centre ....................138 Christian Quarter .............................104 Beyond the Centre ...........................154 Armenian Quarter and Mount Zion ..................................120 EXPERIENCE ISRAEL AND THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES 166 Tel Aviv.....................................................168 West Bank .............................................226 Mediterranean Coast and Galilee .............................................186 Petra and Western Jordan ..........240 Dead Sea and Negev Desert ......................................212 NEED TO KNOW 266 Before You Go ............................................268 Index ..................................................................277 Getting Around ..........................................270 Phrase Book .................................................285 Practical Information ............................. 274 Acknowledgments ...................................287 Left: Young Muslim women by the Dome of the Rock. Previous page: Sunset over Wadi Rum 004-005_EW_Jerusalem.indd 5 23/11/2018 16:24 DISCOVER y Cit d Ol m’s e al us er g J n ki o o erl v O 006-007_EW_Jerusalem.indd 6 23/11/2018 10:18 EW Section Openers template v1.1– 29th May 2018 Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro Welcome ...............................................................8 Reasons to Love ............................................10 Explore .................................................................14 Getting to Know .............................................16 Itineraries ...........................................................20 Jerusalem, Israel and the Palestinian Territories Your Way ...................................28 A Year In .............................................................46 A Brief History ................................................48 006-007_EW_Jerusalem.indd 7 23/11/2018 10:18 W ELCOME TO JERUSALEM, ISRAEL AND THE P ALESTINIAN TERRITORIES e m o Serene sacred sites and bustling Bauhaus boulevards. Glittering azure c el seas and dramatic desert outcrops. Magnificent ancient ruins and mouth- W R watering contemporary cuisine. A meeting place for travellers, traders VE and worshippers since the dawn of civilization, this land of contrasts is O C an unforgettable feast for the senses, mind and spirit. Whatever your S DI dream trip to this evocative region entails, this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is the perfect companion. 1 2 3 1 Floating in the salty waters of the Dead Sea. 2 A pile of freshly baked bagels for sale. 3 The striking façade of the Treasury at Petra. 4 Looking over Jerusalem’s historic Old City. 4 8 008-009_EW_Jerusalem.indd 8 06/12/2018 16:47 EW Welcome to… template v1.1– 5th June 2018 Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro, Soho Pro Deeply significant to the Jewish, Christian south: snorkel among colourful corals in the and Muslim faiths, this ancient land is imbued Red Sea, roam Negev oases populated by long- with a beguiling mix of cultural influences. horned ibexes or bathe in the salt-rich waters The fragrant alleyways of Jerusalem’s Old City of the Dead Sea. The welcoming cities of the throng with tourists and pilgrims winding their West Bank provide an insight into Palestinian way between holy sites, while the bustling, culture, while an excursion to neighbouring multicultural modern centre offers an array Jordan offers the chance to be immersed in an of eclectic architecture, world-class museums, ancient world at the breathtaking ruins of Petra. and hipster bars and cafés. Forward-facing Tel From the historic streets of Jerusalem to Aviv is Jerusalem’s dynamic coastal counterpart, Bedouin encampments in Wadi Rum, we’ve with buzzing beaches and a thriving nightlife. broken the region down into easily navigable Traces of civilizations past are evident chapters, with detailed itineraries, expert local throughout Israel, but they are at their most knowledge and colourful, comprehensive maps picturesque in the north of the country, where to help you plan the perfect visit. Whether balmy Mediterranean waters lap at Roman you’re staying for a weekend, a week or longer, and Crusader remains, and beautiful churches this Eyewitness guide will ensure that you see commemorate Jesus’s miracles around the Sea the very best the region has to offer. Enjoy the of Galilee. Natural wonders are the draw in the book, and enjoy this special part of the world. 9 008-009_EW_Jerusalem.indd 9 23/11/2018 12:56 R EASONS TO LOVE JERUSALEM, ISRAEL AND THE P ALESTINIAN TERRITORIES e v Lo Ancient ruins and sacred sites, modern museums and flavoursome food, o s t Mediterranean beaches and desert oases: there are so many reasons to on love this evocative region. Here, we pick some of our favourites. s a e R 1 R E THE VIA DOLOROSA V O There’s no better way to C S feel the passion of Christian DI pilgrimage to Jerusalem than by joining a procession of the faithful along Jesus’s “Way of Sorrow” (p76). 2 BATHING IN THE DEAD SEA Buoy your body and your soul in the salty, soothing waters of the Dead Sea (p218), the lowest point on earth at 431 m (1,414 ft) below sea level. 3 PETRA Truly one of the great wonders of the world, the Nabateans’ mysterious “rose-red city half as old as time” makes an awe-inspiring short excursion from Israel (p244). 10 010-013_EW_Jerusalem.indd 10 23/11/2018 12:56 EW Reasons to Love… template v1 – 26th March 2018 Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224