Japanese Tourism and Travel Culture This book examines Japanese tourism and travel, both today and in the past, showing how over hundreds of years a distinct culture of travel developed, and exploring how this has permeated the perceptions and traditions of Japanese society. It considers the diverse dimensions of modern tourism including appropriation and consumption of history, nostalgia, identity, domesticated foreignness, and the search for authen- ticity and invention of tradition. Japanese people are one of the most widely travelling peoples in the world both historically and in contemporary times. What may be understood as incipient mass tourism started around the seventeenth century in vari- ous forms (including religious pilgrimages) long before it became a prevalent cultural phenomenon in the West. Within Asia, Japan has been the main tourist-sending society since the beginning of the twentieth century, when it started colonizing Asian countries. In 2005, some 17.8 million Japanese travelled overseas across Europe, Asia, the South Pacific and America. In recent times, however, tourist demands are fast growing in other Asian countries such as Korea and China. Japan is not only consuming other Asian societies and cultures, it is also being consumed by them in tourist contexts. This book considers the patterns of travelling of the Japanese, examining travel inside and outside the Japanese archipelago and how tourist demands inside influence and shape patterns of travel outside the country. Overall, this book offers important insights for understanding the phenomenon of tourism on the one hand and the nature of Japanese society and culture on the other. Sylvie Guichard-Anguis is a researcher at the French National Centre of Scientific Research (CNRS) and works as a member of the research group ‘Spaces, Nature and Culture’ in the Department of Geography, Paris-Sorbonne (Paris IV). She is co-editor of Globalizing Japan (Routledge, 2001); Crossed Gazes at Cultural Heritage in the World (in French and English, 2003) with the collaboration of UNESCO; and co-author of Grand Hotels in Asia, Modernity, Urban Dynamic and Sociability (in French 2003, Korean translation 2007). Okpyo Moon is Professor of Anthropology at the Academy of Korean Studies, Korea. She is the author of From Paddy Field to Ski Slope: Revitalisation of Tradition in Japanese Village Life (Manchester University Press, 1989) and the editor of Consump- tion and Leisure Life in Contemporary Korea (1997); New Women: Images of Modern Women in Japan and Korea (2003); and Understanding Japanese Culture through Travel and Tourism (2006). Japan Anthropology Workshop Series Series editor: Joy Hendry, Oxford Brookes University Editorial Board: Pamela Asquith, University of Alberta Eyal Ben Ari, Hebrew University of Jerusalem Hirochika Nakamaki, National Museum of Ethnology, Osaka Kirsten Refsing, University of Copenhagen Wendy Smith, Monash University Founder Member of the Editorial Board: Jan van Bremen, University of Leiden A Japanese View of Nature Dismantling the East-West Dichotomy The World of Living Things by Kinji Essays in Honour of Jan van Bremen Imanishi. Translated by Pamela J. Edited by Joy Hendry and Heung Wah Asquith, Heita Kawakatsu, Shusuke Wong Yagi and Hiroyuki Takasaki. Edited and introduced by Pamela J. Asquith Pilgrimages and Spiritual Quests in Japan Edited by Maria Rodriguez del Alisal, Japan’s Changing Generations Peter Ackermann and Dolores Martinez Are Young People Creating a New Society? The Culture of Copying in Japan Edited by Gordon Mathews and Critical and Historical Perspectives Bruce White Edited by Rupert Cox The Care of the Elderly in Japan Primary School in Japan Yongmei Wu Self, Individuality and Learning in Elementary Education Community Volunteers in Japan Peter Cave Everyday Stories of Social Change Lynne Y. Nakano Globalisation and Japanese Organisational Culture Nature, Ritual and Society in Japan’s An Ethnography of a Japanese Ryukyu Islands Corporation in France Arne Røkkum Mitchell W. Sedgwick Psychotherapy and Religion in Japan Japanese Tourism and Travel Culture The Japanese Introspection Practice of Edited by Sylvie Guichard-Anguis and Naikan Okpyo Moon Chikako Ozawa-de Silva Japanese Tourism and Travel Culture Edited by Sylvie Guichard-Anguis and Okpyo Moon First published 2009 by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN Simultaneously published in the USA and Canada by Routledge 270 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business This edition published in the Taylor & Francis e-Library, 2008. “To purchase your own copy of this or any of Taylor & Francis or Routledge’s collection of thousands of eBooks please go to www.eBookstore.tandf.co.uk.” © 2009 Editorial selection and matter, Sylvie Guichard-Anguis and Okpyo Moon; individual chapters, the contributors All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilized in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Japanese tourism and travel culture / edited by Sylvie Guichard-Anguis and Okpyo Moon. p. cm.—(Japan anthropology workshop series) Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Travelers—Japan. 2. Tourism—Japan. 3. National characteristics, Japanese. I. Guichard-Anguis, Sylvie, 1951– II. Moon, Okpyo, 1950– G330.J35 2008 306.4′819089956—dc22 2008023494 ISBN 0-203-88667-4 Master e-book ISBN ISBN13: 978–0–415–47001–8 (hbk) ISBN13: 978–0–203–88667–0 (ebk) ISBN10: 0–415–47001–3 (hbk) ISBN10: 0–203–88667–4 (ebk) Contents List of figures vii List of tables ix Notes on contributors x Preface xiv Introduction: The culture of travel (tabi no bunka) and Japanese tourism 1 SYLVIE GUICHARD-ANGUIS PART I Travelling history in the present 19 1 The past and the other in the present: Kokunai kokusaika kanko – domestic international tourism 21 NELSON GRABURN 2 The heroic Edo-ic: Travelling the History Highway in today’s Tokugawa Japan 37 MILLIE CREIGHTON 3 Japanese inns (ryokan) as producers of Japanese identity 76 SYLVIE GUICHARD-ANGUIS PART II Travel in tradition, time and fantasy 103 4 Meanings of tradition in contemporary Japanese domestic tourism 105 MARKUS OEDEWALD vi Contents 5 Fantasy travel in time and space: A new Japanese phenomenon? 129 JOY HENDRY PART III Travelling the familiar overseas 145 6 Japanese tourists in Korea: Colonial and post-colonial encounters 147 OKPYO MOON 7 The Japanese encounter with the South: Japanese tourists in Palau 172 SHINJI YAMASHITA 8 The search for the real thing: Japanese tourism to Britain 193 BRONWEN SURMAN 9 All roads lead to home: Japanese culinary tourism in Italy 203 MERRY I. WHITE Index 215 Figures I.1 The post town of Narai (Nagano prefecture) 9 I.2 Kumano Hongu¯ Taisha (Wakayama prefecture) 10 I.3 Kinosaki hot spring (Hyo¯go prefecture) 11 1.1 English-language tourist map of Miyama 24 1.2 Four hundred years of friendship memorial next to noborigama (climbing kiln) 26 1.3 Brochure of Western Shosoin and Kudara Palace Pavilion 27 1.4 The past is a foreign country: the ‘Road of Legend’ map showing Udo Jingu, Saitobaru, Nango Son and Takachiho 31 2.1 A Rekishi Kaido ‘stamp point’ in Kyoto shows the seal and logo of the Rekishi Kaido travel campaign. The stamp image depicts a child or youth in front of Nijo¯ Castle 49 2.2 In an Osaka shopping street, the Edo era castle theme is shown by the metalwork image of Osaka-jo¯ (Osaka Castle) on Osaka’s sewage covers 54 2.3 Although Hikone has more remaining Edo era buildings than any other part of Japan, it has also constructed a new city street area designated the ‘Old New Town’ of modern-made buildings intentionally designed to look like those from the Edo era 56 2.4 Some of the famous white walls and remaining samurai areas of Hagi 58 3.1 The post town of Unno juku (Nagano prefecture) 84 3.2 The honjin in Koriyama (Osaka prefecture) 86 3.3 Tokaikan in Ito (Shizuoka prefecture): details of the inside 90 3.4 Higashiya ryokan (Yamagata prefecture) 91 5.1 Anne of Green Gables and her friends Gilbert and Diana, portrayed at Canadian World in Hokkaido 133 5.2 A street in the Campo section of Spain Village on the Ise peninsula 134 5.3 One of the early depictions of a Japanese historical link at Holland Village in Kyushu 135 viii Figures 5.4 An imagined reproduction of the marital bed of William Shakespeare and his wife at the Shakespeare Park in Maruyama, Chiba prefecture 137 5.5 Entrance to the Sentosa Asian Village, Singapore 142 6.1 An advertisement for a Korean tour 150 6.2 A tourist poster of the 1970s 154 6.3 A magazine cover advertising shopping in Seoul 159 6.4 New trends in esute tours 161 6.5 A hallyu tour package poster 166 7.1 Palau, the paradise 178 7.2 Memorial tourism at Peleliu 179 7.3 Storyboard in the style of Baris 184 7.4 Palau on T-shirts 187 Tables 4.1 Size of groups during domestic trips 114 4.2 The aims of school excursions of senior high schools 117 4.3 The purposes of school excursions of junior high schools 118 4.4 The purposes of school excursions of elementary schools 119 6.1 The number of Japanese tourists to Korea by age group 157 7.1 Visitor arrivals in Palau, 1980–2006 173 7.2 Visitor arrivals in Palau, 1992–2006, by major countries of residence 174