J.WG.O ETHE ITALIJAONU RNEY TRANSLATED BY W. H. AUDEN AND ELIZABETH MAYER NORTHP OINPTR ESS SANF RANCISCO 1982 Copyrig©h 1t96b2yP antheBoono ks, aD ivisioofnR andomH ouseI,n c. North Poeidnitt iboyna rrangemweintthP antheBoono ks Origintailt Ilet: aliReeniissec he LibraorfyC ongreCsast alogCuaer dN umber8: 1-86248 ISBNo-: 86547-076-6 Theq uotatifornosmG oethel'est teinrt sh eI ntroducatrieo n reprinbtyep de rmissoifot nh eE dinburUgnhi versPirteys fsr om LetftreoGrmos e ttrhaens,l abtyeD dr .M . vonH erzfealndd C.A .M. Sym andp ublishetdh eui .ns .Ab.y T homasN elson andS onsN,e w York. Printiendt heU niteSdt atoefsA merica CONTENTS INTRODUCTIbONy W .H .Au deann d Eli"{_Maabyeetrl z VII ITA LlAJNO URNEY PART ONE FR0!\1C ARLSBATDO THE BRENNERS,e ptemb1e7r8 6 5 FROMT HEB RENNETRo VERONAS,e ptemb1e7r8 6 I9 FR0!\V1E RONAT O VENICES,e ptemb1e7r8 6 35 VENICEO,c tob1e7r 86 65 FROMF ERRARAT O RoME,O ctob1e7r 86 9I RoME,F isrtR omanV isiOtc,t ob1e7r8 -6Fe brua1r7y8 7 I I5 PART TWO NAPLESF,e bruarMya-rci1l7 87 I69 SICILMYa,r c-iMla y 1787 2I5 NAPLESM,a y-june1 787 304 PART THREE RoME,S econRdo manV isijtu,n 1e7 8-7Ap ri1l7 88 339 jun1e7 87 341 jul1y7 87 355 Augus1t7 87 370 Septemb1e7r8 7 38I Octob1e7r 87 395 Novemb1er7 87 4I3 Decemb1e r7 8 7 423 janua1r7y8 8 439 Februa1r7y8 8 470 Marci1l7 88 477 Apri1l7 88 486 NOTES 499 INDEXO F NAMES 503 v INTRODUCTION EvERYkBnOowDtsYh a tth e thrones oLfi teEruartoupreea n aroec cupbiyte hdte r iumvrieerfrarteteod Fiingn anne\sV ake asD auntGyo,u tayn dS hopkeebpuettr o,m ostE nglish­ speakrienagd etrhses ecoinsdm ereal yn ameG.e rmains a mored ifficullagtnu agteol eatronr ead Itthaa,lna i nadn whereSahask espaepapraer,e ntly,v etrwryea linlns tGloea rt­es man, Goiespt ehceu lrieasrilsytt ota rnatn slianttEiono gnl; i sh HoldearnldRi inl kforee ,x ampcloem,te h roumguhc hb etter. Froamt ransloafFt aiuoasnntr y,e a dcearsn e e Gtoheattmh ues t havbee eenx traordiinntlaeirlgieblnuytht ,e w ilplr obagbelty thiem prestshiahotewn a tso ion tellteoclota ucakilinp,n a gs sion, becanuost er anslcaagtnii vaope nr opiedreo afG oethaem'asz ing commaonfde vesrtyy olfpe o etfrorym,t hceo artsote h wei tty tot hley ritcota hlse u blime. Ther eadoentr h,oe t hhearn wdh,o d oeksn oswo mGee rman andb eigsi ntnoit nagk ei tnaenr est icno mGeuospea tghaei nst ac ultbuarrarlti heer ,h umourlesosfG oiedtobhlyeGi ezra­tion manp rofeassncodrr siw thioct sr eeavte wroyr hde e veurte tred asH olWyr iEtv.e inif wt e rieno ucru ltturraadli ttori eovne re ougrr ewarti tientr hsi s iwwtao yul,d mbuec mho rdei ffiuclfto r us itdoo lSihzaek estphemeaa rnbe e cawuesk en onwo thaib nogtu himw,h erGeaose twhaees s senatni ataloulbyi ogrwarpihtiecra,l whosleeii fst hmeo sdto cumenotfae ndy ownheoe velri v;e d comparweidt h GoeevteDhnre J.,o hnsiosn s haa dofiwgyu re. Fort howsheo sieg noraonfGc eer macnu ttsh eomff f orm Goethpeo'esta rnydw hoh avaen i nstinpcrjteduiivcee against preosfsisoangahelis Is,t aJloiuarmnna eywy e lble tbheesb to ok ofh itsos taorntT. o b egwiint thh,e arrehe u ndraenddts h ou­ sanodfsE nglisahnmdAe nme ricwahnohs a vmea daen I talian journoefty h eoiwrn a ndt,om anyo f thtehme,ei nrc ounter witIht ailtlysa, n dsictapspe eo,pi ltaesr, ht a,bs e eni mapso rtant VII INTRODUCTION ane xperiaesin wtca est oG oetshoet ,h atths eu bject-omfa tter thbeo owki liln tetrheesmitr, r espoefic ttasiu vteha onrdt, h ey wileljn yo compartihnpego st-WWoarrlI dII tatlhyek yn ow with ptrhee- French-IRteavwlohyli ucGthoi eotsnha ew( .S peak­ infgor m yse,l afIm amazeadtt hesiirm ilaIrsti hteyar.ne y othceoru nitnEr uyr owphee rtehc eh araocftt hepere opsleee ms toh avbee en listot le bayffp eocltietadin cdta elc hnological change?) Goetdhiend o gto t oI taalsay j ournianls iesatro cfnh e ws­ wortshtyo rbiuesrso ,mo ef btehspeta sgseiasnI tajloiuyarno new e asm uctho j uornalgiosotldiu cca ks tdhoet yol iterary talent. Whilsek etcahr iunign feordti nM alcehseii nsne e aralryr es­ teads a nA ustrsipa;yV ne suvoibuglsei wsi tahm ajroe ruption durihnisgst ianyN apl;e ssabialcifkorn mgS ictihley ,bh oea hta s takieskn i nd entoogu egitht sneelafrs lhyi pwreocnCk aepd;r i eccenatnrcdi ocm cihca raccrtoehsrispss a tlhi,k eN etahpeo litan Princweistsh otuthrea getoounsg tuhece,h oleric Governor of MessionrMa i,sH sa rtth,fe ut urLea dHya miolnwt,h os ee­ms Godf orgihvere! t-oh avien ventthMeeod d eDrann c; ecah ance remaorvke rheartdoh ilmsee aedtswi intgth hh eu mbrleel atives ofC agliotshtmero os,ft ma ousi nternastwiionndoalflte hre timGeo.e tihsne o uts uatlhloyu gohfat sa f unnym an, but his descriopfst uiceohvn esn rtesv ear aelca olm giictaf nde,v emno re surpripseirnhgaltyph,ses ,yh ohwo wr eahdeyw atso s ee himself ina c omilci ght. Tow riats eu ccuelts rsafbvoeolok n,me u shta vaeno bservant eyaen adg iffortd escription. Goevtiheewa sbh oeultd definite howt hinsghso ubledd e scrwihbiecadhr,s e u mmeudp ail ne tter hew roitner8 2a6 boauy to unwgr itwehroh acdo nsuhlitme.d Upr inlolw h e hlaism itheidm setlofs ubjecmtoidvee rpno etry, sos elf-concaenrdns eedl f-absoHreb deode.s v erwye lwli th anythicnogn finetdo i nneerx periefneceel,i dnigs,p osiatnido n reflectointo hness aen;d h ew ildle aslu ccesswfiutlahln yyt heme wherteh eayr et reatBeudt.h eh asn ory etd evelopheipdso wers inc onnectwiiotnah n ythirnega lolbyj ectLiivkeae.l ylo unmge n, nowadayhse,r athfiegrh tssh yo fr ealiatlyt,h ouegvhe rything VIII INTRODUC TION imaginatmiuvsetb eb aseodn r ealijtuys,at s e veriyd eamlu st comeb actko i tT.h et hemIes etth iyso unmga nw ast od escribe Hamburags i fh eh adj usrte turnteoid t T.h et hreaodfi deahse followferdo mt hes tawrats t hes entimenotnaeol fh imso ther, hisfr ientdhse,il ro vep,a tienacnedh elpT.h eE lber emainae d streaomfs ilvtehrea, n choraangdet het ownc ountfeodnr o thing, hed idn ote venm entiotnh es warmicnrgo wdso-nem ighats easihlayY bee evni sitNianugm burogr M ersebuIrt go.lh di mt his quitcea ndidhleyc ;o ulddo s omethirnega lgloyo di,fh ec ould givaep anoraomfaa g reanto rthecrinta ysw elals h ifse elifnogrs hihso mea ndf amily. Goethoew'nps r acitpsie cceu alnirdae rm inmdes ais nt range wayo ft hae- liteorfsa otmucero en teormapFrrye nncohv elists. The tradmiettihooonfdda els critprtitieouos nn itthese e nsory percepotfoi beojcntw ist thh seu bjefceetliivtnehg esay r oubsye means soifm ioalr ae m etaoprhiciamla gTeh.iG so etvheer y raredloyeO sn.t hceo ntrhaerd ye,l ibekreaetpesls yet nhseo ry andt hee motionalH ema apkaerestn .o rmoeuffosr tpsi,l ing quayliinafgd jecotnqi uvaeyl iinafgd jecttosi aveyex ,a ctly what shaapne dc oloaunor bj cet ainsdp, r eciwsheelriyets tanidns spatrietalilaot noo thoebrj ebcutitsn,c, o nttroats htpir se cision, thaed jteicvheese mplotyoes x prheisessm otiorneaalc tions arael moasltw avyasg uaen db an-awlordlsi kbee auitmifu­l, portvaanltuo,ac bcoulvree a rn odv earg ain. Thed iffilcutayb outth ipsr ocediustr hea bty,i tnsa ture, languiastg oeao b starm aecdti uNmo.v erbdaels crihpotwi­on, evecra ruelcf,a dne scraiu bnei qoubjee ;ca ttb esittd, e scribes obejctosfa c ertcalianTs hseo. n lmye difaos rh owiannog bj cet ini tcso ncruentieq ueanretesh sve i suala nadpr htost ography. Goetohfec ,o urksnee,tw h iasn,ds aisdo . We oughttot allke sasn dd raw moIr,pe e.r sonaslhloyu,ll idk teo renounscpee eaclht ogetanhde,r olrigkae nniact urceo,m municate everythIih nagv et os ayi ns ketches. Hea lskon ewo,fc ourtsheat,th wiass eaxnag egratTihoenr.e arcee rtcahianr actoefrt ihsitnwighcsis ca hr eev ebriya ts" ob­ jectaisv et"vh iesiaurpa plre aanacnewd i twhh icohn llyna guage IX INTRODU CTION cadne aAl d.r awicnagsn h owwh asto methiisan tagm oment, butc aintn sohto uws h owi tca mteob et hawta y wohra wti ll happteoinn t e x;tt hoinsl lya unagge dcoWa.hn a gti vGeose the's descritphteivioarnl siu sne o hti "sw ord-ipnag-i"hnetc annot makeu s" seael "ad nscaoprae b uildaisDn .g LHa.w renforc e, exampclae-n,b ut phasissi oinnaettreei snht i stodreivceallo p­ mentm-orteh an wmroisstth e emr akeussa waorfew htyh ings havceo mteo b e tahse y Haear lew.a ryesf utsoes de partahtee beatuuiflfor mt hnee cesfsorah rewy a,cs o nvitnhcoaentdce a nnot reaalplpyr etcihaet bee oafau ntyyt hwiintgh uonudte rstanding whamta de it apnohdso swii ctba lmee bienitnTogo G. o etah e, man wlhooo aktsb eaa tuifcullo wuidt hkonuotw ionrwg i,s hing tok now, maentyeo olrogayta,l andswciatpheko nuotw ianngy geoloagtay p ,l awnitt hosuttu dyiitsnstg r ucatnudwr aeyo f growtahtt, h heu mabno dy wistthuoidunyatg n atoimsiy m,­ prisohniimnsgie nl fta heastt hseujtbeicct wihviithcyehd eplored ast hbee sientgt osfi ntw hrei toefhr iss time. Goetihsme o rseu ecscsafutdl e scriwboirnkogsfn ateut rhan hei sa td esicbriwnogr kosfa rItn.d e,te hdree adseorm etimes findhsi msweilsfh ihnehg a dm oreof tpenr actwihsaehtde preacwhheedn shae:i" dAtre xitsotb se seetno,b etn aoeltdk abouetx,c eppetr,h aipnis tp,sr esenOcneer. e"a sfoornt hiiss , ofc ourtsheaG,to etkhnee wl oaat b otnu atuhriaslt orvye rayn d litatbloeua trh ti stAonroyt.h meary be tthwaokt i ntodhfse histaorrey edrieffnNta.t urhiaslt loirkys,eo caianldp olitical histiocsro yn,t in;tu hoeuirsnseo momwehnetnn o thiihsna gp ­ peniBnugtt. h hei stoofr ya drits ciosn ttihnaeur ohtui ssi;ta onr casnh otwh ien flueannccdei sr cumswthaincche sm paodses iibtl e andl iktehlayat c ertpaaiinn stheoru pladi ntac eirnt waaiyn, iflctoheo stpeoas i bnuthte, caenxnpoltwa hiyn phaei anp tisc ture instoefna odpt ai ntionngeA . w orokf n autraen dag rewaotr k ofa rbto tghi vuesa ,sG oetshaeia sd e,n osfne e scseibtuywt,h ere­ ast hneec essoifnt ayt uirsaem ustth,ao tfa ritsa no ught. Whe,nt hiryteyal rtase rth,e pfirarstot fI tajloiuarwnna esy publisthheGede ,r maanri tstciocl oinnRy o mew aso uatgred. Thosweh omh eh adn ot mentwieoroneffee dn deadn,dt he X INTRODU CTION workhseh afdia lteods eaen tdh jeu gdmenhtesp assetdh oosne hed imda det hesma tyh ahtem ushta vgeo nteh rouIgtha ly withhi esy essh ut. Thiwsa usn afiLri.ke ev erybGoodeyt'hste,a' shsta eid t lsi mita­ tioonwsi,ni gnp arttoh itse mperaamneidn npt a rtto tahgee inw hichhe liIvtse ede.mt sh atth Gei otfetrsoc oiens Atrhee na Chapweelr neo otn v iewwh ehne w asi nP aduaan,wd e know thahtet riteod see,b uththe ed meliberreuafsteetdlov y i sit the TwoC hurcihneA ss siFsoirG. o etthhee wraesn op aintoirn g sculpbteutrweeC elna ssainictqaulia tnyMd a ntegna. Yetw,h eonn e conhsoiwld ietrtsl e pasicnutlipnatgnu dra en d architGeocettuhhraeeds eebnef oreh ec amteo I taolnyei, s astouanthdi eosdp en-minsdse.d TnhePoaulglhfa orde ixaa,m ple, is ihdiesma old eranr chihtees chto,wf sra m oraep preciation of Bartohqauonen ew ouldh aveex pecmtoerdie,n eddet han mosotf h issu ccesisnto hrens i neteceenntthuH reys .t arted ouwti tahs torng jpduriecaeg aiCnhsrti stthieamne ssu bajse cts forp aintainndog vse rcamTeh oiugtth.oh imt hAep ollo Bel­ vedewraest hfien eascth ieveimnGe rnetea kr hte,l eartnoe d admiwroer kosf the paerrcilhoiadPki aec e usmt,a nd though he profetsos esbshe o ckbeytd h ger otesviqluolefa tPhrei nocfe Pallagozneiwsait,t whth hiech hed escriibtbe eatsyrh si fssa cina­ tioAnn.d ,a niycn a sGeo,e tmhaed e cnloa tiomb ew ritai ng guitdoeI talair;ath net elulsws h ahte l ookaetd alnidk heed , makensoc latihmah tij su gdmenatrsae b solauntdte h,o uhgeh may,o uivrni ew, ohvaevrep rsaoimspeei dc tuIdr oen so,tt h ink thahtec ondemannewydh icshe etmou sr eagloldoy. Oner easwohnyw ee njroeya dtirnagv eli tsbh oaaojt kuo sr ney ios noef t haer chetsyypmabloI ltis s. impostsaikabet l rea itno ora na eropwliatnheho auvti anf gna taosfyo nesaesal Q fu est Hersoe ttoiffin ng scheo afr eannc hapnrtiendoc ret shWsea ters ofL ifAen.d t hesno,m jeuo reny-sG oethwea'sos n e-really arqeu ests. Ita]loiuarinnse oynn oltay d escripptliaocnpe esro,sf ao nnds thinbgusat,l asp os ycholdoogciucmaoelfn tfit rhseit m portance dealwiintaghl eic frisisi nw hviacdrhei,go ruoesfie nst enwsei ty, XI