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Title: Island Trail at Walnut Canyon Walnut Canyon National Monument Author: Anonymous Release Date: June 30, 2019 [EBook #59840] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ISLAND TRAIL AT WALNUT CANYON *** Produced by Stephen Hutcheson, Lisa Corcoran and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net i Island Trail at Walnut Canyon Island Trail at WALNUT CANYON PRICE 10 CENTS IF YOU TAKE THIS BOOKLET HOME or you may use it free of charge, returning it to the register stand when you leave.... WALNUT CANYON NATIONAL MONUMENT 11 MILES EAST OF FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA. 1 Birdseye view of the “Island” Trail at Walnut Canyon National Monument The National Park System, of which Walnut Canyon National Monument is a unit, is dedicated to the conservation of America’s scenic, scientific, and historic heritage for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Conrad L. Wirth, Director A Guide to 2 THE “ISLAND” TRAIL The National Park Service sincerely welcomes you to Walnut Canyon National Monument. * * * * * * * * In order to insure your safety and to preserve the unspoiled beauty of your National Monument, as well as protect its valuable archeological and historic structures, we urgently request your cooperation in observing the following rules and regulations! * * * * * * * * Please do not roll or throw rocks, pick flowers, molest any wildlife, or collect specimens of any kind. * * * * * * * * U. S. Department of the Interior National Park Service Southwestern National Monuments * * * * * * * * At the observation point a self-guiding trail begins which will take you down and around the “Island” in the Canyon. There is a drop of 185 feet by ramp and stairway to the “Saddle.” From there the trail is comparatively flat, and completely encircles the “Island” at the level of the ruins. You will visit several, and be able to see more than 100 of the 400 small cliff dwellings of Walnut Canyon. Numbered markers along the trail refer to paragraphs in this booklet which explain features of interest at each marker. When you come to numbered markers please read the paragraph with the corresponding number. Please watch your step at all times. The total length of the trail is five-eighths of a mile and the average time consumed is 40 minutes. STAKE NO. 1. General view of canyon. From this point you will observe that the canyon makes a large “horse shoe” bend leaving an “Island” connected to this side by the narrow neck of land we call the “Saddle.” It is in this small section of the canyon that there is the heaviest concentration of prehistoric cliff-dwellings. From here you are able to discern the distinctly different types of vegetation growing on opposite sides of the canyon. On the north side (or southern exposure) we see many of the desert type plants native to southern Arizona. On the other side we have the types common in the higher and colder elevations. Walnut Creek, the stream which cut the canyon, was dammed in 1904 to form Lake Mary which supplies the city of Flagstaff; otherwise there would be a running stream in the canyon today. The early Pueblo Indians probably picked the canyon for their homes for this reason. They farmed the mesa tops. The natural caves formed by erosion furnished ideal roofs, as well as protection from enemies and comparatively easy access to domestic water supply. You will now take the trail, to your left, which will lead you to the next stake at the “Saddle.” The trail is steep and there are several flights of stone steps. It is quite safe, but we urge you to use care in your descent. STAKE NO. 2. Looking down canyon (to your left) is a graphic view of the geological formations exposed in Walnut Canyon. On the next page of this guide leaflet are sketches showing “How the Canyon was Formed.” No. 1. Millions of years ago this area was a vast flood plain near sea level. Shifting sands were formed into dunes by wind causing cross bedding or lamination. It is these sands that form the Toroweap Formation which is the oldest exposed in the canyon and is the whorled and cross-bedded sandstone which rises from the Canyon floor. No. 2. Later this flood plain was submerged, and for millions of years was at the floor of a large, shallow body of water called “The Permian Sea.” Calcium carbonate was precipitated to the floor of the sea. Small sea animals were trapped or covered by this ooze or mire which later compacted into stone and forms the Kaibab Limestone which forms the rim of the canyon, and rests directly on the Toroweap. Many marine fossils are found in this formation. No. 3. A gradual uplifting of the earth’s surface caused the sea to retreat. Streams draining the land began cutting channels to the sea. The 3 gradual uplift coupled with the cutting action of the stream facilitated canyon cutting. Erosion carried away later Cretaceous deposits from the rim and side erosion began widening the channels. Softer strata would erode more rapidly than the hard, forming the caves in which man later built his homes. No. 4. Volcanic activity and the forming of the San Francisco Peaks during the next period increased erosion. This activity has continued until fairly recent times. The latest eruption was that of Sunset Crater, occurring around 1066 A.D. Walnut Canyon was dammed to form Lake Mary in 1904. Otherwise there would be running water in the canyon most of the year. There are practically no records of poisonous snakes at Walnut Canyon. In summer the Coral King Snake with colorful black, white, and orange-red bands may be seen. This snake is harmless and should not be disturbed. STAKE NO. 3. Although not the best preserved of the ruins you will visit, this once was an extensive string of rooms. By tree ring dating we have been able to establish dates of occupancy—the earliest for these masonry dwellings being 1120 A.D. They were abandoned between 1200 and 1300 A.D. Near the center of the room is what remains of an ancient fireplace—almost obliterated—so please do not walk on it. From here numerous rooms may be seen on this side of the canyon and directly across. STAKE NO. 4. Ponderosa or western yellow pine (also known by 22 other common names) (Pinus ponderosa). The leaves or needles occur in groups of three and are 5 to 11 inches in length. These trees reach an age of from 350 to 500 years and are considered the most important lumber tree in the Rocky Mountain region. Pueblo Indians of today invariably use Ponderosa for their kiva ladders. Hopi Indians attach the needles to prayer plumes to bring cold. The needles are also smoked ceremonially. 4 How the Canyon Was Formed Kiva Ladder STAKE NO. 5. Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga taxifolia). This tree requires more moisture than is found on the south slopes of the canyon. The wood is harder, stronger, and more durable than Pine. Douglas Firs are the conspicuous trees on the slopes facing north, while Pinyon and Juniper are dominant on those facing south. The boughs of this tree are used by many Pueblo Indians today in their ceremonies and dances, particularly by the Hopi who travel long distances to collect the branches for their “Kachina” dances. They believe that the color of the needles in the early spring will foretell growing conditions for the coming year. It probably had similar uses among the cliff dwellers. 5 Hopi Kachina STAKE NO. 6. This fine overhanging ledge furnished what appears to be an ideal house site, although apparently it was never used as such. Perhaps the women would gather here in the shade on hot days to chat and grind their corn or make pottery. Undoubtedly, Indian children have played in its cool protection. The ledges of this type were used by prehistoric Indians because they afforded good watertight roofs for their homes which could be completed by construction of walls only in front and on the sides. The recesses were formed by a process called differential weathering or exfoliation. Moisture seeps into the cracks behind the surface of the softer layers of limestone. When the water freezes it expands, cracking off thin layers of rock. STAKE NO. 7. Elderberry (Sambucus corulea neomexicana). The blueblack berries of this plant are eagerly consumed as food by birds and small animals. Berries are put to present-day use in making jams, jellies and pie. STAKE NO. 8. This site once contained five rooms, of which only a few walls are left. You will notice that the vegetation here is different. You are on the northwest side of the “Island,” which receives little sun, is colder, and has vegetation found in the great forests of the northern United States. Woman Plastering STAKE NO. 9. These are the best preserved ruins on the trail. Some restoration has been done around the doorways, using a dark mud to distinguish it from the original. The black soot deposit on the ceilings is the result of using pitch Pine for fuel. If you look closely at the inside walls of this room you will see the handprints of the women who plastered it—prints placed here long before America was discovered. Since so many people wish to see them, we ask that you do not touch the wall; otherwise in a few years the handprints would be completely obliterated. 6 Women Doing Masonry Note the smoke-blackened rocks inside the wall itself. They show that the stones were re-used from an earlier dwelling, probably constructed at the same site. STAKE NO. 10. Yucca (Yucca baccata). Also known as “Soapweed” or “Spanish Bayonet.” This plant was most important in the economy of the early cliff dwellers. It furnished all of the necessities of life, namely food, shelter, and clothing. The Yucca is pollinated by a small moth whose larvæ feed on the seeds. The Indians prized the fruit, buds, flowers, and stalks for food. Its fiber was used for baskets, mats, cloth, rope and sandals. Leaves were sometimes laid across rafters or vigas in buildings and covered with mud for roofs. The root makes good soap. YUCCA FOOD Flower Stalk Fruit Seeds Nets and Snares for catching Birds and Animals for Food SHELTER Cover and tie Roof Beams Floor Mats Tie Rungs in Ladders CEREMONIAL OBJECTS SOAP CLOTHING Sandals Robes made of Yucca fiber and wrapped with rabbit fur or feathers Loincloths UTILITARIAN OBJECTS Baskets, Bags Quivers 7 Burden Baskets Tump Strap STAKE NO. 11. In the construction of houses it is believed that women did much work, certainly the plastering, and possibly the laying of stones in mortar. Men must have helped with the heavier “hod-carrying,” timber-lifting, etc. Women also took care of household duties, made the pottery, and helped with the farming. The men did the hunting, weaving, and farming, and took care of the religious ceremonies and duties. As with their descendants, the historic and present day Pueblo Indians, they were probably matrilineal, that is, the children followed the mother’s clan. Fremont Barberry Please note the small opening above the door. The fireplace was built near the center of the room and the smoke escaped through this hole. The T-shaped doorway gave access to the room, and was easily covered during cold weather with a skin, mat, or slab of rock. Each room may have housed a family of four or five. They built terraces, in front of each set of rooms, which served as door steps. The rooms may seem small, but most of the every-day hours were spent outside, and they perhaps used the houses only for cooking and sleeping during inclement weather. 8 Ruin and Balanced Rock The hollowed-out stone you see against the wall is a metate (meh-TAH-tay) or corn grinding stone. STAKE NO. 12. Mormon Tea or Torrey Ephedra (Ephedra torreyana). This shrub with its green stems is able to withstand great drought. A pleasant, bitter tea may be brewed with the leaves, which contain tannin. Mormon Tea plant is used medicinally by practically all southwestern Indians. STAKE NO. 13. Little remains of these rooms but piles of rubble. Most of the damage was done by vandals. Portions of only two walls are standing, but directly across the canyon from this point you will see a dwelling in an excellent state of preservation. Originally the walls were covered with plaster so that none of the masonry was visible. Apparently the balanced rock on the rim above this room did not frighten the Indian builders. Rooms built on two separate levels of the cave to the left of this site gave it the appearance of a two-story dwelling. Woman Cracking Walnuts STAKE NO. 14. Juniper (Juniperus scopulorum). Sometimes erroneously called Cedar. Bark was used to pad cradles, make sandals and pot rests. Digging sticks and rakes for farming were also commonly made from this wood. For the Hopi Indians (among whom the nearest direct descendants of these people will be found) this plant has many interesting medicinal and ceremonial uses. The berries are also used as medicine and are eaten sparingly by almost all kinds of wildlife. The wood is good for fuel. THE TRAIL LEADS UPWARD FROM THIS POINT—PLEASE WATCH YOUR STEP STAKE NO. 15. Fremont Barberry or Hollygrape (Berberis fremonti). This plant is valued by the Hopi for tools of various kinds. Its wood is very strong and makes excellent arrow shafts, Spindles and battens. It is yellow in color and it makes a dye. Medicinally it is utilized for healing gums. It is also good winter browse for deer. STAKE NO. 16. Arizona Walnut (Juglans major). The species after which the Monument was named. The small, thick shelled nuts are eaten by Indians of New Mexico and probably Arizona. A fairly rare tree in the Southwest. This tree is directly below you and identified by the SILVER TAG tied to the branch. 9 Mountain Mahogany STAKE NO. 17. Mountain Mahogany (Cercocarpus eximus). The wood of this plant was utilized for various implements such as combs and battens for weaving. Its dry wood makes a very hot fire with little smoke. A decoction of the roots of this plant when mixed with Juniper ashes and powdered bark of Alder makes a red dye commonly used for dyeing leather; for example, moccasin uppers.