International Cuisine Michael F. Nenes, CEC, CCE Photography by Joe Robbins J O H N W I L E Y & S O N S , I N C . This book is printed on acid-free paper.⃝∞ Copyright ⃝C 2009 by Education Management Corporation. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. 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TX725.A1N46 2009 641.59–dc22 2008009580 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents Foreword iv Acknowledgments v Introduction vi Mexico 1 South America 49 The Caribbean 106 Japan 148 China 198 Korea 271 Southeast Asia 313 Spain 371 The Middle East 410 Turkey, Greece, and Crete 454 Africa 501 India 543 The British Isles 599 France 640 Italy 690 Germany, Austria, Switzerland 742 Scandinavia and Russia 785 References 827 Index 828 Foreword Despite my training in classical French cooking techniques, I have long valued the cuisines of countries from all over the world and found great inspiration in them. As a young apprentice, I was fortunate to have trained in France’s most famous kitchens including those of Paul Bocuse, Roger Verge´ , and Paul Haeberlin, and then spent a number of years on cruise ships that exposed me to the excitement of world cuisines. Later, after a two-year stint in Brazil, I settled in San Francisco, a city with a food community that has always deeply appreciated a wide variety of international cuisines. At Fleur de Lys and more recently at our Burger Bar restaurants, I have created dishes which are sometimes directly—sometimes subtly—enhancedwith flavors and cooking techniques found outside my original French classical training, and I have seen how these international influences have drawn enthusiasm from my diners. I am delighted that The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institutes have put together this comprehensive book of world cuisines that is certain to become a treasured resource for anyone who cooks, both professionally and at home. It has everything needed to truly understand and master a wide array of international cuisines, especially Asian cuisines, which are now such an important part of the American dining landscape. The detailed and vivid descriptions of the history of the food culture for each cuisine are not only fascinating, but also give the reader an understanding of how each cuisine evolved. The comprehensive ingredient lists are a tremendous resource for anyone wishing to recreate the recipes. It is also extremely interesting to read about the cooking utensils from each cuisine along with the detailed descriptions of the cooking techniques. Finally, the book contains a treasure of authentic recipes that not only look delicious, but truly and accurately reflect the featured cuisine. I know that International Cuisine is certain to have a prominent place in my culinary library and I hope yours as well. Hubert Keller Chef-Owner Fleur de Lys, San Francisco and Las Vegas Burger Bar, Las Vegas, San Francisco, and St. Louis SLeeK Steakhouse, St. Louis Acknowledgments The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institutes wish to thank the following contributors for their efforts on behalf of International Cuisine: Author Michael F. Nenes, MBA, CEC, CCE. This first edition of International Cuisine is the result of intensive cooperative and collaborative effort by many individ- uals. Thanks to Lois Nenes, M.Ed., for her tremendous amount of research, writing, editing, and support. Every effort was made to find information that could be supported by at least two documented sources. Lois was a supportive colleague and we both enjoyed the tremendous amount of exploring and learning needed to complete this project. Photographer Joe Robbins of Joe Robbins Photography, Houston, Texas. Joe taught at The Art Institute of Houston for over 15 years, helping to shape the careers of stu- dents in the visual arts. His collaboration and outstanding photography contribute to the effectiveness of this book. Certified Master Chef Klaus Friedenreich, Chef Hugh Chang, and Chef Scott Fer- nandez worked with culinary students at The Art Institute of Houston, testing recipes to prepare and plate the food photographed for the book. This was a tremendous task made possible by hard work, organization, and culinary passion. Thank you to the following Art Institutes’ instructors, staff, and students for their ef- forts on behalf of International Cuisine: Staff members Jose Ferreira and Waldemar “Wally” Marbach; Instructors Soren Fakstrop; Joseph Bonaparte, CCE, CCC, MHM;MarkMatin, MBA; Michael Edrington, CCC, MHM; Nathan Hashmonay; Shannon Hayashi, CEC, M.Ed; Anita Bouffard, MBA, CWA, CWS; Jeff Kennedy, CHE; Scott Maxwell, M.Ed; Stephan Kleinman, CEC, CCE, AAC; Matthew J. Bennett, M.Ed, CEC, CCE, CWPC, CFBE; Ricardo Castro; Simon Vaz, MBA, Ed.S. CHE; Eyad Joseph, CEC, CCE, CCA; MarkMattern,MBA, CEC;HughChang; and Scott Fernandez; and students Claudia Tur- cios; Bryce Smith; Ian Caughey; Camilla Guerrero; Amber Bush; and Elizabeth Sanchez. Introduction The idea for International Cuisine seemed natural and obvious in light of the importance of increased globalization. At the same time, The International Culinary School at The Art Institutes went through an extensive review process that emphasizes an international focus. The most compelling concept, explored with industry professionals, current stu- dents, our faculty, and prospective students, centered on teaching students about a wide variety of countries and regions, cultures, and ingredients and the crucial role they play in a variety of cuisines. Industry professionals acknowledge that while fundamental skills are still most critical, it is important for culinary students to have exposure to a wide range of cultural, sociological, and geographical information because the marketplace is demanding it. Due to changing demographics and evolving tastes of consumers, restaura- teurs are under increasing pressure to offer more diverse and/or creative menus. Culinary students who have had a broader exposure to a variety of international cuisines will be more versatile and creative culinarians. We believe students who develop a good palate, expand their range of taste, and develop the techniques gain a better understanding of the culinary arts. The intent of International Cuisine is to serve as a window for students to explore the different cultures and cuisines of the world. Culinary programs have always taught some type of international cuisine course, but while there are numerous good books centered on a particular country (such as Italy) or region (such as Latin America), there has been no one book that adequately brings together the world’s regions. International Cuisine does just that, teaching the wide range of regions around the world and how history, geography, and religion—not to mention the ingredients—influence the different cuisines. International Cuisine is unique. Many of a cuisine’s culinary traits result from con- ditions that naturally exist in the region or country—factors such as geography, climate, agriculture, as well as historical, cultural and religious influences from settlers, invaders, and neighboring countries. Each chapter is divided into the geography of the area (in- cluding a map of the country or countries being discussed), the history, the people and their contributions, and the foods particular to the region. Some chapters are countries discussed individually, others include two or more countries, and several discuss an en- tire continent. The effort was to choose countries that are culinary representatives of the world. Following this introduction of each country or countries, each chapter contains a INTRODUCTION vii glossary of ingredients and dishes as well as a selection of menus and recipes characteristic of the cuisine and its heritage. Each menu and recipe in International Cuisine was selected and tested for its repre- sentation of the cuisine, to insure a variety of culinary techniques, a variety of ingredients, and availability of ingredients. However, many of the recipes have been influenced by local customs, ingredient availability, and the inspiration of international chefs, so they have been reformulated to conform to current practices. Methods of preparation are clearly broken down into straightforward steps, and follow a logical progression for completion of the recipe. Here are some important tips for using International Cuisine: r It is important to understand that to yield a superior dish, you must start with high-quality ingredients. Good results cannot be obtained with substandard ingredients. r Some ingredients are highly specific to a region and may be difficult to obtain elsewhere. The goal was to keep the unusual ingredients to a minimum so that the recipes can be prepared in areas that do not have large ethnic communities. These recipes are followed by Chef Tips, which indicate suitable substitutions. r All herbs called for in recipes should be fresh unless specified as dried. r All butter called for in recipes should be unsalted unless specified otherwise. r It is recommended that the olive oil produced by each country be used for that country’s recipes. For countries that do not produce olive oil but the ingredient is used in its recipes, use a good quality olive oil. r It is recommended that both white and black pepper be ground fresh to the level of coarseness called for in the recipes. Ground pepper loses strength over time, making it difficult to judge the quantity needed. r When citrus juice is called for in the recipes, it should be squeezed from fresh fruit rather than reconstituted from concentrate. r Many of the cooking times indicated in the recipes are approximations. The altitude, type of cookware used, and amount of heat applied are all variables that affect cooking time. Professional cooks use these times as a guide but determine doneness by appropriate means. viii INTRODUCTION One of the wonderful outcomes of our exploration turned out to be the discovery that most of these cuisines are based on sustainable food choices. Sustainable production enables the resources from which it was made to continue to be available for future generations. We support the positive shift in America and world-wide toward local, small- scale sustainable farming. An Instructor’s Manual (978-0-470-25406-6) is also available to qualified adopters of this book. It contains chapter objectives, the skills and techniques required to prepare the recipes, suggestions for mise en place demonstrations, additional information on each menu, expanded and detailed chef’s tips, and a chapter test. For an electronic version of this Instructor’s Manual, please visit www.wiley.com/college and click on Culinary Arts.