Indigenous Gardens Creating habitat for people and wildlife in Maroondah Acknowledgements This booklet is a collaboration between CRISP Nursery and Maroondah Council. Photography: Craig Allen (The Connies) Cameron Dean Doerte Drews Graeme Lorimer Annette O’Sullivan Mark Smith Text and Design: Doerte Drews Copyright 2012 The information in this booklet may be reproduced with acknowledgement to Maroondah Council and CRISP Nursery. Reproduction of any photos will require permission in writing. Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to ensure the content of this publication is accurate. The authors cannot be held responsible for any claim, loss, damage or liability arising out of the use of the information contained. This booklet is printed on 100% recycled paper, made carbon neutral. Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah Contents Why plant indigenous? 4 Sustainable 4 Biodiverse 5 Getting started 7 Garden design 7 Site analysis 8 Soil testing 10 Lifestyle requirements 11 Garden design 11 Garden styles 12 Bush garden 12 Cottage garden 14 Minimalist garden 15 Formal garden 16 Incorporating ponds into your design 17 Indigenous lawn alternatives 20 Planting preparation 22 Planting 24 Maintenance 25 Weed control 26 Maroondah Wildlife 28 Indigenous Plants of Maroondah 30 3 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah Why plant indigenous? Indigenous plants are plants that are local to a region and superbly adapted to local climate and soil conditions. This makes them a logical choice for low-maintenance, sustainable gardens. They also make the ideal habitat for local wildlife. Sustainable An indigenous garden, once established • will require minimal maintenance and watering, • can be designed to take on a variety of styles, such as bush garden, rain garden, cottage garden, or even formal garden while still being low maintenance (see examples in design section), • can complement existing ornamental gardens and thus reduce the overall maintenance and watering requirements of the garden, • can create micro-climate zones in the garden. Well designed micro-climate zones in a garden can be cooler than their surrounds. This is achieved by establishing canopy plants for shade, suitable undergrowth, water features for evaporative cooling effect and the use of non-reflective, permeable materials for paths and sitting areas. 4 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah Biodiverse Many of Maroondah’s bushland reserves are relatively small pockets of remnant vegetation, but do support diverse ecosystems and contain plants that are locally rare and significant. Often they depend on human intervention for their survival. The Maroondah Bushland Crew, with significant support Biodiversity is the degree from many volunteers, of life form variation in an maintains these reserves by ecosystem, both at flora and removing weed infestations and fauna level, and is considered regenerating or revegetating a measure of its health. depleted areas. The ‘Sites of Biological Significance in Maroondah’ study (Lorimer, G., Reid, J., Smith, L., & Moss, H., 1996) identifies 131 environmentally significant sites and found that remnant indigenous vegetation occupies 5% of the municipality. Maroondah is home to a number of rare and locally or King-Parrot and Running Postman regionally significant species, (Kennedia prostrata) and with only 5% cover of remnant indigenous vegetation cover remaining, those species are under tremendous pressure from weed infestation and vandalism. Where possible, revegetation is undertaken, however, many orchid species for example cannot be propagated. Careful management of sensitive areas is therefore essential. 5 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah One example of a precious and rare plant is the Kilsyth South Spider Orchid —Caladenia sp. Kilsyth South (G.S.Lorimer 1253) Vic. Herbarium. It only occurs in Bungalook Conservation Reserve in Kilsyth and nowhere else in the world. Weed infestation significantly impacts on its habitat and, as it cannot be propagated, it could be lost forever. (Image supplied by Graeme Lorimer) Indigenous gardens designed with this in mind • strengthen existing corridors and increase the number of habitat pockets within Maroondah, • can create new corridors that link to remnant flora and fauna ecosystems in Maroondah’s bushland reserves, • protect fragile local natural areas by reducing potential weed infestations caused by weedy plants escaping from gardens • create new habitats for wildlife, • significantly reduce ongoing maintenance, fertiliser and water use, • create inviting outdoor living areas, • raise awareness and appreciation of local indigenous vegetation and wildlife. 6 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah Getting started Whether you start your garden from scratch or want to gradually incorporate indigenous plants into your existing garden, this booklet will give you an overview of what can be achieved and how. A list of plants indigenous to Maroondah and particularly suited to garden situations is included at the end of this booklet, together with planting and care advice. However, there are many more than can be listed here, and the local indigenous Before: poor drainage, water collects in community nursery CRISP the bottom corner, soil is compacted. will be happy to advise you when selecting plants for your garden. Garden design Like with any other garden, the design of an indigenous garden begins with an inventory of existing plants, features and site conditions such as hard landscape features - paving, After: soil has been improved, dry- retaining walls, paths - slope, river bed collects water, any over- soil conditions, easements flow will run into garden bed and be and services and aspect (sun/ absorbed by wetland plants. The soil shade). dug out of the dry-river bed pan was used to top up the lower bank. This site analysis, combined with a list of lifestyle wants and needs, will be an invaluable guide when designing your garden and selecting plants. 7 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah Site analysis A thorough site analysis will help you plan your design and implementation, especially when you are landscaping larger areas or are planning work that requires large amounts of materials to be brought in. • Make a rough sketch of the site, measure the sides and main features and record your measurements (see image over). • Where is North? Draw it in your sketch. • Take note of any slopes and record them on your plan. Is erosion control required when you remove any existing vegetation and start preparing the soil? Will the top soil run off into neighbouring areas? • Record existing vegetation and buildings. Consider the impact existing vegetation and buildings in the vicinity will have on your site. Record them in your sketch, together with sun/shade conditions they could expect to cause. • Access – are there any restrictions to bringing in equipment and materials? Measure the width of paths and gates that restrict vehicle access, e.g. when you have soil or mulch delivered. • Services – know where your power, water, gas services and any easements are located. • In case of heavy rainfall or/and if you are planning to install irrigation, where is your water going to drain? • Test your soil. What is its texture, structure and pH? Soil test kits are available from garden centres or hardware stores. For more on soil testing see section “Soil testing” on page 10. 8 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah A site sketch should contain all pertinent information and measurements 9 Indigenous Gardens in Maroondah Soil testing Soil pH can be tested using simple pH testing kits available from nurseries and hardware stores. Take soil samples at 5 -10 cm depth, this is where the feeder roots are most active. Depending on the area size, more than one soil sample may be required. Soil texture refers to how coarse or fine a soil is, this is determined by its clay, sand and silt content. There is a simple test to give you a general idea of the composition of your soil sample: • Take a handful of soil and add water until you can make a ball. • Feel if the ball is gritty (sand), silky (silt) or sticky (clay). If the ball does not stick together at all and crumbles, your soil is very sandy. • If you can make a ribbon with your soil, it contains clay. The longer the ribbon you can make, the higher the clay content of your soil. Checking soil moisture content in various spots will give an indication of potential low-lying wet areas, or of drier areas - e.g. under large trees - that will require special consideration when designing, to either select wetland plants or install drainage. These simple tests will help you determine if any work is required to improve the soil prior to planting and how much time is required for any ameliorations to become effective. (For soil treatment see section “Planting preparation” on page 22). 10