© Lonely Planet Publications 13 Contents Highlights 4 Deeg 183 Alwar 183 Sariska Reserve & The Authors 18 National Park 184 Shekhawati 185 Destination India 22 Ajmer 189 Pushkar 192 Getting Started 23 Ranthambore National Park 197 SOUTHERN RAJASTHAN 199 Itineraries 28 Bundi 199 Kota 203 Snapshot 37 Around Kota 214 Chittorgarh 214 History 39 Around Chittorgarh 217 Udaipur 217 The Culture 56 Around Udaipur 228 Mt Abu 229 Environment 81 Around Mt Abu 234 WESTERN RAJASTHAN 234 Activities 90 Jodhpur 234 Around Jodhpur 242 Jaisalmer 243 Food & Drink 104 Around Jaisalmer 251 Bikaner 252 Delhi 119 Around Bikaner 257 History 122 Orientation 123 Punjab & Haryana 258 Information 123 Chandigarh 261 Dangers & Annoyances 125 Around Chandigarh 267 Sights 127 PUNJAB 267 Activities 138 Sirhind 267 Courses 138 Patiala 268 Tours 139 Northern Punjab 269 Sleeping 139 Amritsar 269 Eating 145 India–Pakistan Border at Drinking 149 Attari/Wagah 275 Entertainment 151 Pathankot 275 Shopping 152 Anandpur Sahib 276 Getting There & Away 154 HARYANA 277 Getting Around 157 Kurukshetra 277 GREATER DELHI 161 South & West of Delhi 277 Tughlaqabad 161 Qutb Minar 161 Himachal Pradesh 279 EASTERN HIMACHAL Rajasthan 163 PRADESH 282 EASTERN RAJASTHAN 165 Shimla 282 Jaipur 165 Around Shimla 291 Around Jaipur 178 Kinnaur Valley 292 Bharatpur 180 CENTRAL HIMACHAL Keoladeo Ghana PRADESH 297 National Park 182 Mandi 297 14 C O N T E N T S Rewalsar Lake 298 Around Allahabad 423 Getting There & Away 512 Mandi to Kullu 298 Faizabad & Ayodhya 424 Getting Around 513 Great Himalayan Varanasi 425 National Park 299 Sarnath 438 West Bengal 516 Bhuntar 299 Gorakhpur 439 Parvati Valley 299 Kushinagar 440 SOUTH OF KOLKATA 517 Naggar 305 Sunauli & the Nepal Border 441 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 517 Manali 306 Diamond Harbour 520 Around Manali 315 Sagar Island 520 WESTERN HIMACHAL Uttarakhand Bakkali 520 PRADESH 318 (Uttaranchal) 443 Digha 521 Dharamsala 318 Dehra Dun 446 NORTH OF KOLKATA 521 McLeod Ganj 319 Mussoorie 450 Up The Hooghly 521 McLeod Ganj to Around Mussoorie 454 Bishnupur 521 Bharmour Trek 328 Haridwar 454 Shantiniketan 522 Around McLeod Ganj 329 Rajaji National Park 459 Nabadwip & Mayapur 522 East of Dharamsala 330 Rishikesh 459 Murshidabad & Southwest of Dharamsala 331 Around Rishikesh 466 Berhampore 522 Chamba Valley 332 Uttarkashi 467 Malda 523 LAHAUL & SPITI 338 Garwhal Temple Treks 467 Gaur & Pandua 523 Lahaul 339 Joshimath 469 WEST BENGAL HILLS 523 Spiti 341 Around Joshimath 470 Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri 523 Valley of Flowers & Jaldhapara Wildlife Jammu & Kashmir 347 Hem Kund Trek 470 Sanctuary 527 JAMMU & Badrinath & Mana Vilage 471 Mirik 528 THE KASHMIR VALLEY 350 Kuari Pass Trek 471 Kurseong 529 Srinagar 353 Nanda Devi Sanctuary Trek 471 Darjeeling 530 Around Srinagar 360 Corbett Tiger Reserve 472 Trekking Around Darjeeling 542 Gulmarg 360 Nainital 474 Kalimpong 543 Pahalgam 361 Ranikhet 478 Around Kalimpong 548 Amarnath 362 Almora 480 Sonamarg 362 Around Almora 481 Bihar & Jharkhand 549 Sonamarg to Kargil 363 Kausani 482 BIHAR 552 Southern Kashmir 363 Around Kausani 483 Patna 552 LADAKH 365 Bageshwar 483 Sonepur 556 Leh 367 Pithoragarh 483 Vaishali 556 Trekking in Ladakh 379 Pindari Glacier Trek 483 Kesariya 557 Around Leh 380 Milam Glacier Trek 484 Raxaul 557 Chemrey Valey 383 Banbassa 484 Bodhgaya 557 Nubra Valley 383 Dungeshwari Cave Temples 562 Rupsu Valey 385 Kolkata (Calcutta) 485 Gaya 562 West of Leh 386 History 486 Rajgir 563 Kargil 388 Orientation 486 Around Rajgir 565 ZANSKAR 389 Information 487 JHARKHAND 565 Padum 390 Dangers & Annoyances 492 Ranchi 566 Around Padum 391 Sights 492 Betla (Palamau) Trekking in Zanskar 391 National Park 567 Activities 502 Parasnath 567 Courses 502 Uttar Pradesh 393 Kolkata for Children 502 Agra 394 Tours 503 Sikkim 568 Fatehpur Sikri 408 Sleeping 503 EAST SIKKIM 571 Mathura 410 Eating 506 Gangtok 571 Vrindavan 412 Drinking 509 Around Gangtok 577 Lucknow 413 Entertainment 510 Towards Tibet 578 Allahabad 420 Shopping 511 SOUTH SIKKIM 579 C O N T E N T S 15 Namchi 579 WESTERN ORISSA 653 Northern Bastar 713 Jorethang 580 Taptapani 653 Jagdalpur 713 WEST SIKKIM 580 Baliguda 653 Around Jagdalpur 714 Gangtok to Peling 580 Rayagada 653 Geyzing, Tikjuk & Legship 582 Jeypore 654 Gujarat 715 Pelling 582 Around Jeypore 655 EASTERN GUJARAT 717 Around Peling 584 Sambalpur 655 Ahmedabad (Amdavad) 717 The Monastery Loop 585 Around Sambalpur 656 Around Ahmedabad 727 NORTH SIKKIM 588 NORTHEASTERN ORISSA 656 Gandhinagar 729 Gangtok to Singhik 588 Similipal National Park 656 Vadodara (Baroda) 729 Beyond Singhik 589 Jashipur 657 Around Vadodara 731 Baripada 657 Bharuch 732 Northeast States 591 Cuttack 657 Surat 732 Balasore 657 ASSAM 594 Around Surat 732 Chandipur 658 Guwahati 595 Daman 733 Bhitarkanika Wildlife Northwestern Assam Sanctuary 658 SAURASHTRA 735 (Bodoland) 600 Ratnagiri, Udayagiri & Bhavnagar 735 Tezpur 601 Lalitgiri 659 Around Bhavnagar 737 Around Tezpur 602 Palitana 738 Kaziranga National Park 602 Diu 739 Upper Assam 603 Madhya Pradesh & Veraval 744 South Assam 606 Chhattisgarh 660 Somnath 745 MEGHALAYA 607 NORTHERN MADHYA Sasan Gir Wildlife Shilong 607 PRADESH 662 Sanctuary 746 Around Shilong 610 Gwalior 662 Junagadh 748 Jaintia Hils 611 Shivpuri 668 Gondal 751 Garo Hils 612 Jhansi 669 Porbandar 752 TRIPURA 613 Orchha 670 Dwarka 753 Agartala 613 Khajuraho 673 Jamnagar 754 Around Agartala 615 Around Khajuraho 681 Around Jamnagar 757 North Tripura 616 Satna 682 Rajkot 757 NAGALAND 616 CENTRAL MADHYA KUTCH (KACHCHH) 759 PRADESH 682 Dimapur 617 Bhuj 760 Bhopal 682 Kohima 617 Around Bhuj 763 Around Bhopal 688 Around Kohima 618 Mandvi 764 Sanchi 689 Northern Nagaland 618 Little Rann Sanctuary 765 Around Sanchi 692 ARUNACHAL PRADESH 619 Pipariya 693 Itanagar 619 Pachmarhi 693 Mumbai (Bombay) 766 Central Arunachal Pradesh 619 WESTERN MADHYA History 767 Western Arunachal Pradesh 621 PRADESH 695 MIZORAM 622 Ujain 695 Orientation 770 Aizawl 623 Indore 698 Information 770 Rural Mizoram 624 Around Indore 700 Sights 773 MANIPUR 624 Mandu 702 Activities 779 Walking Tour 780 EASTERN MADHYA PRADESH 705 Courses 780 Orissa 625 Jabalpur 705 Mumbai for Children 781 Bhubaneswar 628 Around Jabalpur 708 Tours 781 Around Bhubaneswar 642 Pench Tiger Reserve 708 Sleeping 782 SOUTHEASTERN ORISSA 643 Kanha National Park 709 Eating 786 Puri 643 Bandhavgarh Drinking 789 Raghurajpur 648 National Park 711 Entertainment 791 Konark 648 CHHATTISGARH 712 Shopping 792 Chilika Lake 650 Raipur 712 Getting There & Away 793 Gopalpur-on-Sea 652 Around Raipur 713 GREATER MUMBAI 797 16 C O N T E N T S Elephanta Island 797 Molem & Bhagwan Mahavir Kovalam 969 Sanjay Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary 878 Around Kovalam 973 National Park 798 Dudhsagar Falls 878 Padmanabhapuram Palace 973 Varkala 973 Maharashtra 799 Karnataka 879 Kollam (Quilon) 977 NORTHERN SOUTHERN KARNATAKA 881 Around Kollam 980 MAHARASHTRA 801 Bengaluru (Bangalore) 881 Alappuzha (Alleppey) 980 Nasik 801 Around Bengaluru 894 Around Alleppey 985 Around Nasik 804 Mysore 894 Kottayam 985 Aurangabad 805 Around Mysore 902 Around Kottayam 987 Around Aurangabad 808 Bandipur National Park 903 THE WESTERN GHATS 988 Elora 809 Nagarhole National Park 904 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 988 Ajanta 812 Kodagu (Coorg) Region 905 Munnar 999 Jalgaon 815 Hassan 908 Around Munnar 1001 Lonar Meteorite Crater 815 Belur & Halebid 909 Parambikulam Wildlife Nagpur 816 Sanctuary 1002 Sravanabelagola 911 Around Nagpur 817 CENTRAL KERALA 1002 KARNATAKA COAST 912 Sevagram 817 Kochi (Cochin) 1002 Mangalore 912 Around Sevagram 818 Around Kochi 1014 Dharmastala 915 SOUTHERN Thrissur (Trichur) 1014 MAHARASHTRA 818 Udupi (Udipi) 915 Around Thrissur 1017 Konkan Coast 818 Malpe 915 NORTHERN KERALA 1017 Matheran 820 Amgol 916 Kozhikode (Calicut) 1017 Lonavla 822 Murudeshwar 916 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 1019 Karla & Bhaja Caves 824 Jog Falls 916 Kannur (Cannanore) 1020 Pune 825 Gokarna 916 Bekal & Around 1022 CENTRAL KARNATAKA 919 Around Pune 832 LAKSHADWEEP 1022 Hampi 919 Mahabaleshwar 832 Bangaram Island 1023 Hospet 925 Around Mahabaleshwar 834 Agatti Island 1024 Hubli 926 Kolhapur 835 Kadmat Island 1024 NORTHERN KARNATAKA 926 Minicoy Island 1024 Badami 926 Goa 837 Around Badami 929 NORTH GOA 843 Bijapur 930 Tamil Nadu 1025 Panaji (Panjim) 843 Bidar 933 CHENNAI (MADRAS) 1026 Old Goa 849 History 1028 Torda 852 Andhra Pradesh 935 Orientation 1029 Mapusa 852 Fort Aguada & Candolim 852 Hyderabad & Secunderabad 937 Information 1029 Calangute & Baga 856 Nagarjunakonda 949 Dangers & Annoyances 1033 Anjuna 861 Warangal 951 Sights 1033 Vagator & Chapora 863 Around Warangal 952 Activities 1036 Chapora to Arambol 866 Visakhapatnam 952 Courses 1036 Arambol (Harmal) 866 Around Visakhapatnam 954 Tours 1036 Terekhol (Tiracol) Fort 868 Vijayawada 954 Sleeping 1036 SOUTH GOA 868 Around Vijayawada 955 Eating 1038 Margao (Madgaon) 868 Tirumala & Tirupathi 956 Drinking 1039 Chandor 870 Around Tirimula & Tirupathi 958 Entertainment 1040 Loutolim 871 Puttaparthi 958 Shopping 1040 Bogmalo & Arossim 871 Lepakshi 959 Getting Around 1043 NORTHERN TAMIL NADU 1044 Colva & Benaulim 872 Chennai to Benaulim to Palolem 875 Kerala 960 Mamallapuram 1044 Palolem & Around 875 SOUTHERN KERALA 962 Mamallapuram CENTRAL GOA 877 Thiruvananthapuram (Mahabalipuram) 1044 Ponda & Around 877 (Trivandrum) 962 Around Mamallapuram 1050 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 877 Around Trivandrum 968 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1050 © Lonely Planet Publications C O N T E N T S 17 Kanchipuram 1051 THE WESTERN GHATS 1088 Velore 1054 Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1089 Directory 1124 Tiruvannamalai 1055 Around Kodaikanal 1093 Gingee (Senji) 1057 Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Puducherry (Pondicherry) 1057 Wildlife Sanctuary 1093 Transport 1163 Auroville 1064 Coimbatore 1093 CENTRAL TAMIL NADU 1065 Around Coimbatore 1096 Health 1181 Chidambaram 1065 Coonoor 1096 Around Chidambaram 1067 Kotagiri 1097 Kumbakonam 1067 Ooty (Udhagamandalam) 1098 Language 1190 Around Kumbakonam 1068 Mudumalai National Park 1104 Cauvery Delta 1069 Andaman & Glossary 1197 Thanjavur (Tanjore) 1070 Around Thanjavur 1073 Nicobar Islands 1106 Trichy (Tiruchirappali) 1073 Port Blair 1112 Behind the Scenes 1205 SOUTHERN TAMIL NADU 1077 Around Port Blair & Trichy to Rameswaram 1077 South Andaman 1117 Rameswaram 1078 Havelock Island 1118 Index 1213 Madurai 1080 Neil Island 1120 Kanyakumari (Cape Middle & North Andaman 1121 Comorin) 1085 Little Andaman 1123 World Time Zones 1234 Map Legend 1236 Regional Map Contents Jammu & Kashmir (p348–9) Himachal Pradesh (pp280–1) Punjab & Uttarakhand Haryana (Uttaranchal) (p259) Delhi (p444) (pp120–1) Sikkim (p569) Rajasthan Uttar Pradesh Northeast (p164) (p396–7) States Bihar & (p592) Jharkand G (pu7ja1r6a)t MaCdhyha tPtirsagdaershh & (p550) We(spt5 B1e8n)gal (p662) Kolkata (Calcutta) Orissa (pp488–9) Mumbai Maharashtra (p626) (Bombay) (p800) (pp768–9) Andhra Pradesh Goa (p936) (p839) Karnataka (p880) Tamil Nadu Andaman & (Kpe9r6al1a) (p1027) Nico(pb1ar1 0Is8la)nds © Lonely Planet Publications 22 Destination India With its mind-bending diversity – from snowcapped mountains to sun-washed beaches, crusty old bazaars to chichi designer boutiques, tranquil temples to feisty festivals, ramshackle rural villages to techno-savvy urban hubs – it’s hardly surprising that India has been dubbed the planet’s most multidimensional country. The subcontinent is home to more than a billion people, and its eclectic melange of ethnic groups translates into an intoxicating cultural cocktail for the traveller. For those on a spiritual quest, India has oodles of sacrosanct sites and stirring philosophies, while history buffs will discover gems from the past almost everywhere – from grand vestiges of the British Raj peering over frenetic city streets, to battle-scarred forts rising from forlorn country fields. Meanwhile, lovers of the great outdoors can paddle in the shimmering waters of one of many palm-fringed beaches, scout for big jungle cats on an adrenaline-pumping wildlife safari, or simply breathe in the scent of wildflowers on a rejuvenating forest walk. And then there’s the food! From squidgy south Indian idlis (rice dumplings) to zesty north Indian curries, travellers are treated to a positively seductive smorgasbord of subcontinental specialities. Demystifying India is a perpetual work-in-progress and for many travellers that’s precisely what makes her so deeply addictive. Ultimately, it’s all about surrendering yourself to the unknown: this is the India that nothing can quite prepare you for because its very essence – its elusive soul – lies in its mystery. Love it or loathe it – and most visitors seesaw between the two – India will jostle your entire being and no matter where you go or what you do, it’s a place you’ll never forget. GREG ELMS 23 G etting Started N othing can fully prepare you for India, but perhaps the one thing that best encapsulates this extraordinary country is its ability to inspire, frustrate, thrill and confound all at once. India is one of the planet’s most multidimensional countries, presenting a wildly diverse spectrum of travel encounters. Some of these can be challeng- ing, particularly for the first-time visitor: the poverty is confronting, Indian bureaucracy can be exasperating and the crush of humanity sometimes turns the simplest task into an energy-zapping battle. Even the most experienced travellers find their sanity frayed at some point, yet this is all part of what makes India a unique travel destination. If you haven’t visited this part of the globe before, set aside the first few days to simply acclimatise to the subcon- tinent’s bamboozling symphony of sights, sounds, tastes and smells. Get excited and knowledgeable about your trip beforehand by reading up on India, especially its cultural framework. Doing so will augment your appreciation of the subcontinent’s sights and traditions and also better equip you to hold more informed conversations with locals. Allow a few weeks of pretrip preparation to sort out immunisations and visas. In terms of planning what to do once you arrive, the country’s remarkable diversity can actually make it a veritable quagmire when nutting out itinerar- ies. The key is to try not to squeeze in too much, as travelling often involves considerable distances and stamina. It’s wise to factor in some flexibility, as things don’t always run like clockwork in India – more than a few travellers have had their holidays marred by not being able to get their preferred train seats, or by being delayed by rescheduled transport services, for example. Flex- ibility will also allow spontaneity, whether it’s simply spending an afternoon discussing samsara with a pujari (priest) whom you initially approached for directions after getting lost in a bazaar, or ditching travel plans with friends to join a short-staffed rural volunteer group you heard about while queuing for bus tickets in Delhi. Regardless, your Indian sojourn is going to be a whole lot more enjoyable if you give yourself some time off purely to chill. WHEN TO GO C limate plays a key factor in deciding when to visit India. You should keep in mind that climatic conditions in the far north are distinctly different to those of the extreme south. Generally speaking, India’s climate is defined by three seasons – the hot, the wet (monsoon) and the cool, each of which can vary in duration from north to south. The most pleasant time to visit most of the country is dur- ing the cooler period of November to around mid-February, although there are marked regional variations (see the Fast Facts boxed texts at the start of regional chapters for the best times to visit specific regions). THE INDIA EXPERIENCE There’s a whole lot more to India than merely sightseeing: „ Activities (see p 90) „ Courses (see p 1129) „ Festivals (see p 1136) „ Shopping (see p 1144 ) „ Volunteering (see p 1155) 24 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om l one l y p l a n e t . c om G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • C o s t s & M o n e y 25 Apart from the weather, the timing of certain festivals or special events DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT… may also influence when you wish to visit India (see p 1136) . „ Getting a visa (p 1154) and travel insurance (p 1139) The Hot „ Seeking advice about vaccinations (p 1181) ; some must be administered over a period of See p1129 for more The heat starts to build up in India from around February and by April it weeks climate information. really warms up. It can get unbearably hot in May and June, with many parts of the country experiencing temperatures of 40°C and above. Late in May the „ Nonrevealing clothes (women and men) – covering up will win you more respect and is first signs of the monsoon are visible in some areas – high humidity, electrical essential when visiting sacred sites storms, short rainstorms and dust storms that turn day into night. The hot „ A well-concealed money belt (p 1133) season is the time to abandon the plains and head for the cooler hills, and „ Sunscreen lotion and sunglasses this is when h ill stations are at their best (and busiest). „ A small torch (flashlight) for poorly lit streets and power cuts The Wet „ Good-quality earplugs to block out night din and for long bus/train journeys When the monsoon finally arrives, it doesn’t just suddenly appear. After „ A little alarm clock – budget and midrange hotels often lack clocks and can be notorious for some advance warning the rain comes in steadily, generally starting around missing wake-up calls 1 June in the extreme south and sweeping north to cover the whole country by early July. The monsoon doesn’t really cool things down; at first hot, dry „ Flip-flops (thongs) for shared or grotty bathrooms and dusty weather is simply replaced by hot, humid and muddy conditions. „ A shower cap and universal sink plug (uncommon except at top-end hotels) It doesn’t rain solidly all day, but it rains virtually every day; the water tends „ Tampons – sanitary pads are widely available but tampons are usually restricted to big (or to come down in buckets for a while, followed by periods of sun, creating a touristy) cities fatiguing steam bath–like environment. The main monsoon comes from the southwest, but the southeast coast (and southern Kerala) is largely affected „ Mosquito repellent (a mosquito net can also come in handy) by the short and surprisingly heavy northeast monsoon, which brings rain „ Expecting the unexpected – India has an uncanny knack for throwing up surprises from around October to early December. The Cool classes, eating simple meals and doing limited sightseeing. If you wish to Around October the monsoon ends for most of the country, and this is stay in midrange hotels, dine at nicer restaurants, do a reasonable amount when India sees most tourists – however, by this time it’s too cold to visit of sightseeing and largely travel by autorickshaw and taxi, you’re generally Ladakh (May to October is the optimum period; see p 366) . During October looking at anywhere between Rs 900 and 1700 per day. Of course, you may and November it’s generally not too hot and not too cool (although October be able to subsist on less in India’s smaller, less touristy towns. can still be quite humid in some regions). In the thick of winter (around A ccommodation prices may be influenced by factors such as location (see mid-December to mid-January), Delhi and other northern cities can become p 1124) . Tariffs can shoot up during festivals or other special events, with astonishingly cold, especially at night. It certainly becomes bone-chillingly some hotels charging at least double the normal rate during these times. It cold in the far north. In the far south, where it never gets truly cool, the would be misleading of us to pinpoint an exact countrywide average accom- temperatures become comfortably warm during this period. modation cost (due to broad regional variations), but most hotels around the country fall somewhere between the following ranges: in the budget HOW MUCH? COSTS & MONEY category, single rooms roughly range from Rs 100 to 400, and doubles from W hen it comes to finances, India pleases all pockets. Accommodation ranges Rs 200 to 600. For more comfort opt for midrange hotels, where you should Incense (15 sticks): from lacklustre backpacker lodgings to sumptuous top-end hotels, with expect to pay anywhere between Rs 300 and 1300 for a single and between from Rs 10 some delightful midrange possibilities that won’t bust the bank. A delicious Rs 450 and 1800 for a double. Budget and midrange hotel prices are usually Toothpaste (100g): Rs 27 array of eateries at all prices means you can fill your belly without spending higher in big cities (especially Mumbai) and tourist hot spots. At the upper Bellybutton bindi: Rs 15 a fortune, and it’s possible to zip around economically as well thanks to the end of the spectrum there’s a bevy of opulent five-star properties (including country’s comprehensive public transport network. some stunning palace-hotels), where you can easily spend at least US$150 Mars Bar: Rs 25 As costs vary nationwide, the best way of ascertaining how much money per night. Hindi Pop CD: you’ll require for your trip is to peruse the relevant regional chapters of this Eating out in India is sizzling-hot value, with meals for as little as Rs 40 at from Rs 145 book. Be prepared to pay more in the larger cities such as Mumbai (Bombay) decent budget eateries, and usually little more than double that for a satiat- and Delhi, as well as at popular tourist destinations. ing midrange restaurant meal. Again, prices vary regionally (see the Eating In relation to sightseeing, foreigners are often charged more than Indian sections of individual chapters). citizens for entry into tourist sites (admission prices for foreigners are Regarding long-distance travel, there’s a range of classes on trains and sometimes given in US dollars, payable in the rupee equivalent), and there several bus types, resulting in considerable flexibility vis-à-vis comfort and may also be additional charges for still/video cameras. price – regional chapters supply specific costs and also see p 1169. Domestic So how does this all translate to a daily budget? Roughly speaking, if you air travel has become a lot more price competitive thanks to recent deregu- stick to a tight budget you can manage on around Rs 450 to 600 per day lation (see p 1170) . Within towns there’s inexpensive public transport (see (but budget for at least double that in some big cities and tourist hubs). This p 1173) , or perhaps you’d like to hire a car with driver, which is surprisingly means staying in basic lodgings, travelling on the cheaper buses and train good value if there are several of you to split the cost (see p 1172) . 26 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p 1 0 l o n e l y p l a n e t . c om l one l y p l a n e t . c om G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u r e 27 T RAVEL LITERATURE W illiam Sutcliffe’s Are You Experienced? is the hilarious tale of first-time TOP 10 backpacker Dave, who accompanies his best friend’s girlfriend to India in an attempt to seduce her. It adroitly portrays the backpacker scene in India. Inhaling the Mahatma by Christopher Kremmer is the author’s fascinating GREAT READS and multifarious encounter with India, from his stint as a foreign correspond- With a phenomenal mix of novels offering brilliant insights into India, there’s no dearth of riveting ent in the early 1990s to his marriage to an Indian woman and life beyond. bedtime-reading fodder – the below titles are some great places to start. For additional reading Bedazzled by wizardry since childhood, Tahir Shah travelled through India recommendations see p 74 and the boxed text, p771 . to learn the art of illusion under the guidance of a mysterious master magi- cian. Sorcerer’s Apprentice is the wild and wonderful story of his journey. 1 The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai 6 A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry The Age of Kali by celebrated travel writer William Dalrymple is a per- 2 Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts 7 The Romantics by Pankaj Mishra ceptive compilation of insights gleaned from a decade of travelling the 3 The God of Small Things by 8 White Mughals by William Dalrymple subcontinent. Arundhati Roy 9 Hullabaloo in the Guava Orchard by Kiran peaAnnsi,t Ma Datetesoai a’sn Jdo uSornpehyi et,o w Ihthoa gcoa tios Ithned iean sgeaegkiinngg tsaplier iotuf atwl eon ylioguhntegn Emuernot-. 4 A Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth Desai While Matteo’s ashram experience is spiritually affirming, Sophie’s isn’t 5 Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie 10 The Alchemy of Desire by Tarun J Tejpal quite so rosy. Indian Summer by Will Randall is the memoir of a somewhat disenchanted English teacher who unexpectedly finds himself in Pune, teaching at a school for street kids – then suddenly fighting to save it from being shut down. MUST-SEE MOVIES Gita Mehta’s Karma Cola amusingly and cynically describes the cultural What better way to get all fired up about your trip than by holding your very own Indian movie collision as India looks to the West for technology and modern methods, and marathon! The following top films are either in English or available with English (and sometimes the West descends upon India in search of wisdom and enlightenment. other vernacular) subtitles. Mainstream video stores may not stock many (if any) Bollywood t itles, Chasing the Monsoon by Alexander Frater is an Englishman’s story of his but you shouldn’t have any problem finding them at your local Indian video shop; if that fails, monsoon-chasing journey from Kovalam to Meghalaya. It offers a captivating Indian grocery stores usually have at least one shelf bulging with rental DVDs. window into the monsoon’s significance and its impact on people. To find out more about Indian cinema read p 73. INTERNET RESOURCES 1 Earth, Water and Fire, a trilogy directed by 6 Lagaan, directed by Ashutosh Gowariker B est Indian Sites (www.bestindiansites.com) Offers links to popular websites including search Deepa Mehta 7 The Legend of Bhagat Singh, directed by engines, marriage matchmakers and information technology sites. 2 Gandhi, directed by Richard Attenborough Rajkumar Santoshi Incredible India (www.incredibleindia.org) The official government tourism site, with national 3 Mr & Mrs Iyer, directed by Aparna Sen 8 Hyderabad Blues (Part I & II), directed by travel-related information. 4 Monsoon Wedding, directed by Mira Nair; Nagesh Kukunoor Kmhuochj (mwowrew. .khoj.com) A nifty portal with links to the arts, science, business, culture, sport and see also her acclaimed earlier films Kama 9 Pyaar Ke Side Effects, directed by Saket Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Apart from plenty of useful links there’s the popular Sutra and Salaam Bombay! Chaudhary Thorn Tree forum, where you can swap information with fellow travellers to India. 5 Black, directed by Sanjay Leela Bhansali 10 Meenaxi: Tale of 3 Cities, directed by MF Hussain Maps of India (www.mapsofindia.com) A handy assortment of regional maps, including thematic offerings such as those pinpointing India’s wildlife sanctuaries and Buddhist pilgrimage sites. W orld Newspapers (www.world-newspapers.com/india.html) Provides links to India’s major English-language national and regional publications, enabling you to stay tuned to what’s F ESTIVALS & EVENTS happening where. India has a tremendous variety of major and minor festivals – for comprehensive details see p 1136 and the ‘Festivals In…’ boxed texts appearing near the start of regional chapters. 1 Festival of Dance (Feb/Mar); Madhya 6 Dussehra (Durga Puja) (Sep/Oct); Pradesh (p 663) nationwide (p 1137) but especially in 2 Rath Yatra (Jun/Jul); Orissa (p 646) and Mysore (p 882) , Kullu (p 303) and Kolkata Kolkata (Calcutta; p 487 ) (p 487) 3 Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race (Aug); 7 Diwali (Oct/Nov); nationwide (p 1137) Kerala (p 984) 8 Pushkar Camel Fair (Oct/Nov); Rajasthan 4 Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug/Sep); nationwide (p 195) ( p1137 ) but especially in Mumbai (p 770 ) 9 Sonepur Mela (Nov/Dec); Bihar (p 556) and Pune (p 803) 10 Festival of Carnatic Music & Dance 5 Ladakh Festival (Sep); Ladakh (p 373) (Dec/Jan); Tamil Nadu (p 1028) pal Bhutan Bangladesh INDIA M Arabian Sea