How to see Madagascar Pochard Aythya innotata, the world’s rarest duck Michael S. L. Mill? and Michael Rogersonb Comment voir le Fuligule de Madagascar Aythya innotata, le canard le plus rare au monde. La redecouverte, en 2006, du Fuligule de Madagascar Aythya innotata a Bemanevika, au nord-est de Madagascar, a donne une derniere chance de survie a l’espece. Les revenus du tourisme sont necessaires afin de demontrer aux communautes locales que la protection du site vaut la peine. Pour appuyer les efforts de conservation du Peregrine Fund et ses collegues, des informations sont donnees sur les moyens de visiter le site. A part l’occasion unique de voir le Fuligule de Madagascar dans la nature, le site offre la chance rare d’observer FEffraie de Soumagne Tyto soumagnei. Des especes des zones humides relies que le Canard de Meller Anas melleri, le Crabier blanc Ardeola idae, le Busard de Madagascar Circus macrosceles, le Rale de Madagascar Rallus madagascariensis et FAmphilais tachete Amphilais seebohmi sont egalement presentes, ainsi qu’une grande variete d’especes forestieres et de prairie. Une visite de 3-4 jours est fortement recommandee. Summary. The rediscovery of Madagascar Pochard Aythya innotata at Bemanevika, north-eastern Madagascar, in 2006, has given the species a last chance at survival. Tourism-related income is needed to demonstrate to local communities the benefits of site protection. In support of the conservation efforts of The Peregrine Fund and their co-workers, information is provided on how to visit the site. Besides the unique opportunity of seeing Madagascar Pochard in the wild, the site offers the rare chance to observe Red Owl Tyto soumagnei. Wetland species such as Meller’s Duck Anas melleri, Malagasy Pond Heron Ardeola idae, Malagasy Harrier Circus macrosceles, Madagascar Rail Rallus madagascariensis and Grey Emutail Amphilais seebohmi are also present, plus a wide range of forest and grassland species, making a 3-4-day visit highly worthwhile. T he sensational rediscovery of Madagascar The site where the pochard lakes are situated, Pochard Aythya innotata in November 2006 called Bemanevika, is remote and difficult to at a remote lake in north-east Madagascar has reach. Local people, despite being few in number, given the species a last chance at survival (Rene are having marked impacts on the habitat mostly de Roland et al. 2007). An all-encompassing through grazing of cattle and lighting of grassland conservation programme is underway. Further fires. Madagascar’s habitats appear to have little research on the remaining population is being resistance to these disturbances, and activities that conducted to determine what its ecological would hardly register as disturbing on mainland requirements are, especially for successful Africa are pushing back forest limits, and resulting breeding, and what factors make the site suitable in increased run-off and siltation of the lakes on for this sensitive species. Further searches for which the pochard lives. The Peregrine Fund has suitable habitat (both to release captive-bred birds established a permanent research and conservation and locate additional wild populations) are being camp near the main village of Bemanevika, and planned. Site conservation is being pursued with is engaging the local community in an effort to the local community and formalisation of site convince them to protect the remaining forest. protection is being sought with the government, In a country with a strong government, while a captive-breeding facility has been one might expect that responsibility for site established, where wild-collected eggs are being protection for such rare species should fall on the hatched and chicks raised to adulthood, and administration, but Madagascar’s government is the first captive-raised birds have now produced leaving conservation efforts largely in the hands of young. All of this work is being undertaken by NGOs. To these ends, the Peregrine Fund is keen a partnership between The Peregrine Fund, the to encourage more visitors to the area. In exchange Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust and The for the privilege of visiting, visitors are expected to Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust. pay fees directly to the local community, rather 210 Bull ABC Vol 20 No 2 (2013) How to see Madagascar Pochard: Mills & Roger son - than The Peregrine Fund. These fees will be is available here, so it would be preferable to bring used mainly to support biodiversity conservation, everything that you’ll need from ‘Tana’. develop alternatives to subsistence farming From Bealanana it is 39 km to Bemanevika, methods that negatively affect the environment at which can be expected to take between 3.5 and the site and to create activities for generating some five hours’ drive under reasonable / dry weather income for the local community. conditions. Initially you should return along the On 5-8 November 2011, we visited main road in the direction of Antsohihy for c.2 Bemanevika, with the help of Lily-Arison Rene km, before taking a right turn (left if coming from de Roland (Lily), head of The Peregrine Fund, Antsohihy) at 14°32’55.0”S 48°44’11.5”E. Shortly Madagascar, on-site researcher Sam The Seing and afterwards one crosses a large river, which at the research technician Loukman Kalavah. time of our visit had a very poorly maintained bridge, requiring us to carefully reposition wooden Getting to Bemanevika planks in order to get across safely (Fig. 1). From Prior to visiting, please liaise with The Peregrine here one first travels along a gravel road, but Fund office in the capital Antananarivo (‘Tana’) this soon peters out to a rough track with many to seek permission to stay at the research camp. forks. It is advised to carry a GPS and upload Lily-Arison Rene de Roland can be contacted on a Garmin GPS file with the route, available on lilyarison@yahoo. ft. the Birds Angola website (www.birdsangola.org/ Getting to Bemanevika requires two full days downloads). of overland travel, whether you are arriving from The entire journey from Bealanana to Tana, Mahajanga or Antsiranana. The closest Bemanevika is slow and bumpy, dusty when the town with reasonable facilities is Antsohihy weather is dry, and muddy and slippery when (14°54’S 47°59’E), situated on the main road wet. Numerous stream / river crossings and steep c.430 km north of ‘Tana’ and 325 km south of sections make the journey slow and difficult. Antsiranana (as the crow flies). It is a full day’s Even with 4x4 you may get stuck if it has rained. drive from ‘Tana’ to Antsohihy (leave at sunrise During the wet season (December-April) the and expect to arrive in the late afternoon), but project staff members walk between Bealanana and the road is currently in good condition almost Bemanevika over two days! Attempting the drive all the way, and in Antsohihy there are several to Bemanevika after November is ill-advised, and comfortable hotels with air conditioning. Try probably the best months to visit are September Hotel Sofia or Le Paradisier Hotel on the southern and October, when the pochards are breeding and outskirts of the town. the area is fairly accessible, although even then The second day of travel is rough and tiring, early rains can be a problem. and requires a sturdy 4x4 vehicle with good For those wishing to do the journey on the ground clearance. From Antsohihy head first cheap, it is possible, if somewhat uncomfortable, for Bealanana (14°33’S 48°45’E). Just north of to reach Bealanana by public transport, with daily Antsohihy a road branches east from the main road ‘taxi brousses’ making the journey from Antsohihy. to Antsiranana at 14°5T35.3”S 48°05’20.6”E, But upon reaching Bealanana you will have to find climbing into the central highlands. Despite the private transportation. We have heard that other recent edition of the Madagascar Bradt Travel visitors have managed to hire motorbikes here to Guide’s (Bradt 2011) claim that a ‘good road’ drop them at Bemanevika, but we are unable to links Antsohihy to Bealanana, c.120 km distant, provide details of how to go about this. It is much this was not our experience. At first, the road is in simpler hiring a vehicle from ‘Tana’ to bring you reasonable condition with only the occasional wash all the way to Bemanevika and back. We hired out, but after r.50 km, as it starts to climb, the road the services of Eugene Rakotobe (eliotlestar93@ becomes horribly pot-holed and, finally, rough, yahoo.fr), who drove us in his sturdy Toyota 4x4 rocky and dusty. One should allow at least four with good ground clearance. He spoke reasonable hours to drive from Antsohihy to Bealanana, where English and navigated the difficult roads ably. it is possible to purchase last-minute supplies. Alternatively, join an organised expedition However, only a small range of products and food with a bird tour company (Birding Africa are How to see Madagascar Pochard: Mills & Rogerson Bull ABC Vol 20 No 2 (2013) - 211 212 Bull ABC Vol 20 No 2 (2013) How to see Madagascar Pochard: Mills & Rogerson - Figure 1. Bridge near Bealanana on the road to Birding at Bemanevika Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, November 2011 During our visit the pochards were easy to see, (Michael Mills) especially as they were confined to a single lake Le pont pres de Bealanana sur la route de Bemanevika, for breeding (Figs. 3-4). We saw several pairs nord-est de Madagascar, novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) each time we visited Red Lake, obtaining great Figure 2. Red Lake, Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, views. Two other species of particular interest November 2011 (Michael Mills) here are Red Owl Tyto soumagnei and Madagascar Le Lac Rouge (Matsaborimena), Bemanevika, nord-est de Serpent Eagle Eutriorchis astur. Two Red Owls Madagascar, novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) were fitted with radio transmitters during our Figures 3-4. Madagascar Pochards Aythya innotata, stay, and the project staff kindly tracked one of Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, 5 November 2011 them for us, permitting superb views on its day (Michael Mills) perch (Fig. 5). Madagascar Serpent Eagle is much Fuligules de Madagascar Aythya innotata, Bemanevika, less predictable. In the past the project staff have nord-est de Madagascar, 5 novembre 2011 (Michael found active nests of this secretive species, but Mills) there had been no recent sightings prior to our Figure 5. Red Owl Tyto soumagnei, Bemanevika, north¬ visit, and no active nest site was known. east Madagascar, 5 November 2011 (Michael Mills) Besides these three rare species, there is a Effraie de Soumagne Tyto soumagnei, Bemanevika, nord- plethora of other birds to be found, making a est de Madagascar, 5 novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) 3-4-day stay worthwhile. Most of the common Figures 6-7. Swamp adjacent to Red Lake, where a eastern rainforest species occur, but the unique pair of Malagasy Harriers Circus macrosceles breeds feature of the area is the richness of its wetlands. (female shown), Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, 6 November 2011 (Michael Mills) One of the main attractions is a breeding pair of Malagasy Harriers Circus macrosceles that were Le marais pres du Lac Rouge, lieu de nidification d’un couple de Busards de Madagascar Circus macrosceles (a very active at their nest in a large swamp adjacent droite la femelle), Bemanevika, nord-est de Madagascar, 6 to Red Lake (Figs. 6-7). Red Lake and Green novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) Lake are also excellent localities for Madagascar Figure 8. Rainforest (=Madagascar) Scops Owl Otus Grebe Tachybaptus pclzelnii (at least 40 birds rutilus, Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, 5 November seen) and Meller’s Duck Anas melleri (>10 birds). 2011 (Michael Mills) A colony of Malagasy Pond Herons Ardeola idae Petit-due malgache Otus rutilus, Bemanevika, nord-est de (up to 18 birds observed) occurs in the reedbeds Madagascar, 5 novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) on Red Lake. Swampy areas around the margins of Red Lake should yield Madagascar Rail Rallus running one in 2014; see www.birdingafrica.com madagascariensis, and the ‘harrier swamp’ holds for details). several pairs of Grey Emutail Amphilais seebohmi. The forests are a good place to get to know Bemanevika a wide range of Malagasy birds, including Bemanevika is named after the main village in the Madagascar Ibis Lophotibis cristata, Madagascar area located at 14°22’00.0”S 48°35’05.6”E. The Flufftail Sarothrura insularis, White-throated village is small and home to only c.60 adults. Rail Dryolimnas cuvieri, Madagascar Blue Pigeon Just before the village a track branches off right Alectroenas madagascariensis, Red-fronted Coua and winds across grasslands towards the base camp Coua rcynaudii, Blue Coua C. cacrulca, Rainforest at 14°20’34.3”S 48°34’47.5”E. There are four lakes (^Madagascar) Scops Owl Otus rutilus (seen in in this area. The most important, and the only one camp at night; Fig. 8), Madagascar (Long-eared) on which the pochard breeds, is called ‘Red Lake’ Owl Asio madagascariensis, Madagascar Spinetail (Matsaborimena; Fig. 2). It is fringed by reedbeds Zoonavcna grandidicri, Pitta-like Ground Roller and swamps, and surrounded by beautiful Atclornis pittoides. Cuckoo Roller Lcptosomus forest. The second lake, where the pochards are discolor, Velvet Asity Philcpitta castanea, sometimes seen during the non-breeding season, Common Sunbird-Asity Neodrepanis coruscans, is ‘Green Lake’ (Matsaborimaitso). It is fringed Dark Newtonia Newtonia amphichroa, Stripe- by trees being located well inside the forest itself. throated Jery Neomixis striatigula, Crossley’s How to see Madagascar Pochard: Mills & Rogerson Bull ABC Vol 20 No 2 (2013) - 213 Figure 9. Nelicourvi Weaver Ploceus nelicourvi, Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, 7 November 2011 (Michael Mills) Tisserin nelicourvi Ploceus nelicourvi, Bemanevika, nord-est de Madagascar, 7 novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) Figures 10-11. Grasslands in the Bemanevika area, north¬ east Madagascar, November 2011 (Michael Mills) Les prairies dans la zone de Bemanevika, nord-est de Madagascar, novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) Figures 12-13. Research camp, Bemanevika, north-east Madagascar, November 2011 (Michael Mills) La station de recherches, Bemanevika, nord-est de Madagascar, novembre 2011 (Michael Mills) 214 - Bull ABC Vol 20 No 2 (2013) How to see Madagascar Pochard: Mills & Roger son Acknowledgements Vanga (Babbler) Mystacornis crossleyi, White- headed Vanga Art amelia viridis, Tylas Vanga Tylas We thank the staff of The Peregrine Fund, particularly eduardi, Madagascar Starling Hartlaubius auratus Lily-Arison, Sam The Seing and Loukman Kalavah, for and Nelicourvi Weaver Ploceus nelicourvi (Fig. 9). making our visit both possible and memorable. Most Two rather localised species that we saw several information contained in this article was supplied by times are Grey-crowned Tetraka Xanthomixis Sam The Seing. Eugene Rakotobe drove us safely from ‘Tana’ to Bemanevika and back. Birding Africa paid for cinereiceps and Forest Rock Thrush Monticola Michael Mills’s visit to Madagascar. sharpei. The surrounding grasslands (Figs. 10-11) also hold most of the island’s widespread avian References inhabitants of such habitats, including Madagascar Bradt, H. 2011. Madagascar. Tenth edn. Chalfont St. Buttonquail Turnix nigricollis. In total we recorded Peter: Bradt Travel Guides. 85 species during our short visit. Rene de Roland, L.-A., Sam, T. S., Rakotondratsima, M. P. H. & Thorstrom, R. 2007. Rediscovery What to take of the Madagascar Pochard Aythya innotata in Although there is a research camp at Bemanevika northern Madagascar. Bull. ABC 14: 171-174. (Figs. 12-13), visitors should be entirely self- sufficient and bring enough food and water for a DST / NRF Centre of Excellence at the Percy FitzPatrick their entire stay. You will also need your own Institute of African Ornithology, University of Cape Town, Rondebosch, 7701, South Africa. tent, bedding, utensils, etc. With prior permission from The Peregrine Fund it was possible for us to b CGG Veritas, Crompton Way, Manor Royal Estate, stay at the camp, and we v/ere allowed to use their Crawley, West Sussex, RH10 9QN, UK. basic shelters (under which to pitch our tents) and Received 24 October 2012. the permanent long-drop toilet. The staff kindly prepared food for us (they have a permanent kitchen area and a full-time camp attendant / cook). How to see Madagascar Pochard: Mills & Rogerson Bull ABC Vol 20 No 2 (2013) - 215