The Project Gutenberg EBook of Guide to West Point, and the U.S. Military Academy, by Various This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license Title: Guide to West Point, and the U.S. Military Academy Author: Various Contributor: Edward Carlisle Boynton Release Date: March 18, 2012 [EBook #39188] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GUIDE TO WEST POINT, AND THE *** Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Library of Congress) Transcriber's Note: Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. For a complete list, please see the end of this document. Click on the images to see a larger version. Book Cover Armstrong Gun from Fort Fisher. ARMSTRONG GUN FROM FORT FISHER. GUIDE TO WEST POINT, AND THE U.S. MILITARY ACADEMY. WITH MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS. NEW YORK: D. VAN NOSTRAND, 192 BROADWAY. 1867. GUIDE TO WEST POINT. Fifty-one miles above New York, on the west bank of the Hudson river, in the midst of scenery of the most picturesque and impressive character, and on a bold shelving plateau, formed by the crossing of a range of the Alleghany Mountains, which here assume almost Alpine proportions, is a name dear to every lover of his country—a name replete with memories of the struggle for Independence, and clustering with historic associations. West Point, the property of the United States by purchase, possesses a primary interest from its military importance during the period of the American Revolution, and a secondary one from its being the seat of the National Military Academy. The creative hand of natural beauty—the romance of war—the distinguished career of those who have gone forth from this locality in the defense of American Liberty, and the spectacle presented by those preparing for future public usefulness, have united to inspire the visitor with emotions unlike those excited at any place of popular resort [6] within the limits of the United States. Ninety years ago, when West Point possessed no attraction beyond that presented by similar adjoining wild and uncultivated woodland tracts in the Highlands, a band of Commissioners, appointed by the Provincial Congress of the Colony of New York, instituted an undertaking which first imparted a public interest to this favored spot. The war for American Independence was in progress, and then, as now, the Hudson river afforded the principal channel of communication between the theatre of the strife and the country lying northward to Canada and the west. Nor was its importance thus limited. As a strategic line, separating the New England Colonies from the more productive region south-west of them, the control of the Hudson became, early in the war, one of the principal objects toward which the attention of the military authorities directing the contending parties was attracted. Between abrupt and lofty mountains above West Point, the gorge through which the river flows, yet bearing its ancient name of Wey Gat, or Wind Gate, is partially obstructed at its lower entrance, by a long and narrow island, once named Martelaer's Rock, but now known as Constitution Island. In pursuance of their instructions, made with singular lack of judgment, upon this island the Commissioners landed, and under the direction of an engineer, appointed by the Colony, a work named Fort Constitution was commenced in August, 1775, and completed at a heavy expense, designed to defend, with a powerful armament of artillery, the approach up the river. Thus unfortunately located, and easily destroyed by an overlooking battery at West Point, or by a land approach on the east side of the river, the fort was abandoned and fired on the first appearance of a British force, on the 8th of October, 1777, immediately following the assault and capture by Sir Henry Clinton, of Forts Montgomery and Clinton, four miles below. Notwithstanding this early recognition of the necessity for obstructing and controling the Hudson, no attempt was made to occupy West Point until after the urgent recommendations of Washington, Governor Clinton and Lord Stirling —the latter of whom had thoroughly examined and reported upon the immediate necessity for defending this most important point. Operations were commenced by a brigade of Continental troops, under the command of General Parsons, on January 20, 1778, and before June in the same year, the work yet preserved, was thrown up on the north-east angle of the plateau, and named Fort Arnold. To cover the work, early in April, a body of Massachusetts troops, under Colonel Rufus Putnam, began to erect a fort constructed of earth and logs, on Mount Independence, overlooking the plain, which was named, in honor of their commander, Fort Putnam. The old fort yet in existence, bearing the same name, is a relic built, for the most part, in 1794. Forts Webb and Wyllis, lying to the south and named after regimental commanders, were commenced at the same time with Fort Putnam, and were designed to protect West Point from an approach southward by land. All these operations were conducted under the direction of Major-General McDougall, commanding in the Highlands; and in 1779, they were further strengthened and improved, while additional works were thrown up known as redoubts Nos. 1, 2 and 3, covering the Eagle Valley road to the west; redoubt No. 4, on Rocky Hill, in rear of Fort Putnam, and redoubts Nos. 5, 6 and 7, on Constitution Island, by Kosciuszko as the engineer, acting under the general direction of Washington, whose headquarters were established at West Point during a portion of the same year. The works known as the North and South redoubts, in rear of Garrison's Station, were erected to defend the land approach on the east side of the river. An interesting letter and accompanying map, from Kosciuszko, relating to these works, is here published for the first time: "WEST POINT, 25TH APRIL, 1779. "SIR: I SEND YOU A RUFF MAP OF WEST POINT, WITH INDICATION AS YOU DESIRE FROM ME, ABOUT THE Public Buildings, and the Works. "THE CARPENTERS COMPLIEND ABOUT THE PROVISION, THAT HE HAVE NOT ENOF; HE BEG YOUR HONOR TO allow them more bred. a House full of Ammunition. b The Barracks. c The Carpenter's House. d The Commissary House. e For the Fourage. f The Huts. g The Read House. h Baker's House. i Provision House. k Small Commissary House. l Smock House. m The Barracks. n The Steble, o Of the Artellery Officer's House p Artellery Barracks. q Greaton's Battery. [7] [8] [9] [10] r Chain Battery begun last summer. s Redoubt for fivety men begun last Summer. t Redoubt for fivety men begun last Summer. u Guard House. w Guard House not covered. x Point of (Projected) Block House with Bumprove for fivety men. y Swamps. Your Most Humble Servant (Signed) THAD KOSCIUSZKO Col. The Honorable Major General MCDOUGALL, Peekskill." Map of West Point MAP OF WEST POINT While these land defenses were planned and situated to aid in controling the passage of the Hudson, a formidable obstruction was made by stretching across the river at its narrowest point, a boom of huge short logs, united at the ends by chains so as to resemble a rope ladder, and a few yards higher up, an immense chain was buoyed up on logs, extending across from one shore to the other. This chain was made by Noble, Townsend & Company, at the Stirling Iron Works, yet in operation near the Sloatsburg Station, on the Erie Railroad, about twenty-five miles from West Point. It was carried in pieces to New Windsor on wagons, put together there, and floated down the river into its position, in April, 1778. A portion of the chain is preserved, and is to be seen lying in a grove on the north side of the Plain. The links are made of two-inch bar iron, and each weighs about 120 pounds. The entire chain weighed 186 tons. Thus it will be seen, from its natural advantages, its defenses, and its obstructions, West Point was the key to the passage of the Hudson, and as matters stood in 1780, it was in fact an American Gibraltar. The British, then in possession of the city of New York, and thus prevented from the employment of vessels to maintain communication with the Northern Provinces, and unable to penetrate the country amid the desolate wildernesses which covered its face, found themselves restricted to surprising detached points, or raids, from which the patriots speedily recovered, and no northern campaign, save that of Burgoyne, which ended in defeat and surrender, was attempted, chiefly from their inability to control the passage of the Hudson. The winter of 1779 and 1780 was one of unexampled severity for the patriot army in the North, while in the South the surrender of Charleston and the disaster at Camden, had inspired universal gloom. A cloud of witnesses of the best authority bear testimony that at that period the majority of the American people manifested a willingness to cease further resistance, and return to their allegiance under the British King. In the midst of these forebodings there burst upon the nation the knowledge of a plot so comprehensive and momentous in all the circumstances attending it, and in the results designed to be accomplished, that even in its failure it struck terror and dismay to the hearts of all true lovers of American independence. This mighty plot comprehended not only the surrender of West Point, with all its garrison and armament, but had also for its object the betrayal of Washington and his staff into the hands of Sir Henry Clinton, the British Commander of the King's forces in America. Major General Benedict Arnold, an officer of the patriot army, who had risen from the grade of Captain for gallant and perilous services in the contest, sought and received an assignment to command at West Point and its dependencies in August, 1780. Embittered by a few real, and many imaginary grievances, this officer had long but secretly become disaffected towards the American cause. After evidence has established the fact, that he deliberately bargained with the British Commander to become a traitor to the land of his birth—to sell for a stipulated price the trust confided to him, and to betray his command into the hands of the enemy. To accomplish this object he entered into negotiations secretly with Sir Henry Clinton, by which it was agreed that he should make such a disposition of his forces as would enable the British Commander effectually to surprise West Point. John Anderson and Colonel Beverly Robinson were the agents on the part of the British, and with them Arnold opened "a regular channel of communication." The correspondence becoming protracted, a personal interview was demanded by Arnold to bring the matter to a final settlement, at which he was to furnish plans of West Point, and returns of its armament and garrison. With this object in view, John Anderson left New York on horseback, and proceeded up the river with the intention of holding the proposed interview on board the British sloop-of-war "Vulture," anchored off Teller's, now called Croton Point. Difficulties having been thrown in the way of this arrangement, Anderson was induced to leave the vessel and go ashore at midnight, in a boat sent by Arnold, and meet the latter on the west bank of the Hudson, a little below the village of Haverstraw. He had been directed by Sir Henry Clinton not to enter the American lines, and not to assume any disguise, but under a pressure of circumstances, he did both, and thus became exposed to the character of a spy, violating the laws of war. The meeting between Anderson and Arnold, while [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] discussing their infamous plans, was prolonged until the dawn of day, when the state of the tide and the risk of being discovered by the American pickets, so alarmed the boatmen, that neither the threats nor entreaties of the two principals could induce them to return to the "Vulture." In the hope of making a successful return to the vessel on the next night, both parties sought refuge in the house of a noted Tory, living in Haverstraw, named Joshua Hett Smith. They had scarcely found themselves safe within the house, when an event occurred which seriously threatened the whole object of the interview. The proximity of the "Vulture" to the American lines was such, that a fire was opened upon her by a battery on shore, and she was compelled to drop down the river, thus preventing Anderson from returning to New York by that opportunity. In the afternoon Arnold returned in his barge to his headquarters, while Anderson, filled with thoughts of the great advantage the arrangement must confer upon his King and country, and with the glory and promotion awaiting himself, could not avoid reflecting upon the great personal danger to which he was exposed, surrounded by enemies, and having concealed about his person the proofs of his character as a spy. He had been furnished by Arnold with two passports, one to return by water in case that method again became practicable, and the other by a land route on the east side of the river, authorized him "to go to the lines at White Plains, or lower if he thought proper, being on public business." Choosing the latter mode, in the evening Anderson, accompanied by Smith, crossed the Hudson at Stony Point, and commenced his hazardous journey. The party proceeded with little or no interruption, and once beyond the sight of patroling parties, Anderson's naturally buoyant spirit resumed its wonted cheerfulness, and he astonished his companion by the sudden change from taciturn despondency to unusual hilarity. Poetry, art and literature, formed alternate themes of discourse, and already he seemed to behold the reduction of the Colonies and the end of the war—a consummation to which his own sagacity and personal daring would so largely have contributed. Near Pine's Bridge, a few miles above Tarrytown, Smith parted from him to return to Fishkill, while Anderson pursued his way onward, until three armed militia-men, lying in wait for suspicious men and cattle going to New York, brought him to a stand. Under the impression that they were adherents of the British from their replies to his inquiries, he announced himself a British officer, and exhibited his passport, but it was too late, the fatal admission was made. The men took him into the bushes and searched him, when six papers, mostly in Arnold's handwriting, were found inside of his stockings and beneath his feet, filled with details of the state of the forces, ordnance, and defenses at West Point. Patriotically disdaining the proffered bribe of a purse of gold and permanent support and promotion on condition of suffering him to proceed, the captors conveyed him to Colonel Jameson, who commanded the nearest American outpost at North Castle. This officer, unaccountably bewildered, resolved to dispatch the captive to Arnold, to whose command he belonged, in spite of the damning proof of the former's treachery. Major Tallmadge, the second officer in command at the post, was absent when Anderson was brought in, and did not return until evening. When Jameson told him what had occurred, he was filled with amazement, and openly declared that Arnold was a traitor, offering to take upon himself the responsibility of acting on that conviction. To this Jameson would not listen, but he finally yielded to the entreaties of Tallmadge to recall Anderson, while he persisted in sending a note to Arnold, informing him of the suspicious arrest of the prisoner. The six papers he had already dispatched to be delivered to Washington. The messenger sent to recall Anderson overtook the party and returned with them to North Castle. Conscious that his fate was sealed, exposure inevitable, and proofs of his own and Arnold's crime more than ample, Anderson paced up and down the apartment with measured step, pondering on the gloomy prospect which awaited him, while Tallmadge sat watching him, more and more convinced that the indifferently dressed prisoner before him had been bred to the profession of arms. On the next morning the captive wrote a letter to Washington, describing the manner in which he came within the American lines, and announced himself to be Major John Andre, the Adjutant-General of the British army. The state of inactivity of the patriot forces had impelled Count Rochambeau, the Commander of the Allied French army, to request an interview with Washington at Hartford, Conn. Two days before the conference between Arnold and Andre, Washington wrote Arnold to meet him at Peekskill with a guard of fifty men, and forage for forty horses. Arnold came down from West Point in his barge, and crossed over with Washington at King's Ferry, plying between Verplank's and Stony Point. The "Vulture" was then anchored off in full view, and Washington observed her through a telescope for a long time, conversing with his staff in a low tone. Arnold witnessed the scene with more than ordinary feelings of alarm, and was startled by a playful remark of Lafayette, who said, "General, as you have secret correspondence with the enemy, you must tell us what has become of Guichen." Thrown off his guard, Arnold sharply demanded what the Marquis alluded to, but almost immediately the boat arrived at the landing, and the retort passed unnoticed. The night was passed at Peekskill, and when next morning Washington proceeded on his way, Arnold returned to his headquarters at the Robinson House, opposite West Point. In returning, after the meeting with Rochambeau, Washington pursued the upper route to the Hudson, arriving at Fishkill, so as to enable him to visit West Point before returning to his camp in New Jersey. This change in his route caused him to miss the papers sent after him by Jameson, which had been found on the person of Andre, and during his brief visit the plot had matured, ripened, and Andre had been captured. Two days after the latter occurrence, Washington left Fishkill and pushed on down to the Robinson House, only some ten miles distant, intending to breakfast with Arnold. On arriving opposite West Point, instead of continuing on to Arnold's quarters, he rode toward the North and South redoubts. "General," said Lafayette, "you are going in the wrong direction, and you know Mrs. Arnold is waiting breakfast for us." "Ah!" said Washington, "you young men are all in love with Mrs. Arnold, and wish to get where she is as soon as possible; go, and take your breakfast with her, and tell her not to wait for me; I must first examine the redoubts on this side of the river." [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] [22] As most of the staff officers proposed to accompany him, only two went forward to tell the Arnolds not to wait, and finding breakfast ready, they sat down with the family at the table. During the repast a note was brought to Arnold, who opened it and read it; the note was from Jameson, as before mentioned, and announced the capture of Anderson, conveying, of course, to Arnold, the failure of the whole conspiracy. Betraying but slight outward emotion, although his life was in imminent peril, he merely remarked that his presence was required across the river at West Point, and with a slight apology, he left the room followed by his wife. In the privacy of their own chamber he told her they must part— possibly forever—and that his life depended on his reaching the British lines; then pressing a kiss upon his sleeping infant boy,[A] he passed down stairs, mounted a horse, and dashed down a narrow rocky path leading to the landing, where his barge was lying, just on the south side of the point through which the Hudson River Railroad now cuts its way. Pretending that he was going with a flag of truce, he excited the boatmen to powerful efforts by promised rewards, and the boat sped through the water, carrying the panting renegade to the "Vulture" below, passing Verplank's Point batteries under cover of a white handkerchief raised upon a stick. Meanwhile, Washington having completed his inspection, arrived at the Robinson House, where he was informed that Arnold had been called across the river. After a hasty breakfast, he concluded not to await Arnold's return, but to follow him to West Point. As the barge swept over the water, amid the majestic scenery of the Hudson, Washington remarked, "Well, gentlemen, I am glad General Arnold has gone before us, for we shall now receive a salute, and the roaring of the guns will have a fine effect among these mountains." But no salute boomed upon their expectant ears, and no preparations were visible for tendering one. As the boat drew near the shore, an officer was seen coming down the hill, who proved to be Colonel Lamb, the temporary commander. Astounded at seeing the Commander-in-Chief, he commenced an apology, which was interrupted by Washington. "How is this, sir, is not General Arnold here?" "No, sir," replied the Colonel, "he has not been here these two days, nor have I heard from him in that time." "This is extraordinary," replied Washington, "he left word that he had crossed over here; however, the object of our visit must not be defeated, and since we are here we will look around and see in what state things are with you." He then ascended to Fort Putnam, examined it and the various redoubts, and returned to Arnold's house, where Hamilton gave him the dispatch, which had arrived during his absence from Jameson, containing the papers found on Andre, and the letter from the latter to himself. The treason of Arnold was now fully exposed, but as some hours had elapsed he was already beyond pursuit. Calling in Generals Knox and Lafayette, Washington explained what had occurred, showing the proofs of the treachery, and, pathetically appealing to them, he exclaimed, "Whom can we trust now?" Standing on a mine which might explode at any instant, he was outwardly as calm as ever; he even sought Mrs. Arnold, and kindly attempted to soothe her frenzied excitement which found vent in alternate wailings and reproaches that would have pierced insensibility itself. Although Washington seemed unchanged, he was fully alive to his danger. He rapidly wrote his commands, and hastily dispatched couriers in every direction to arouse the camps, till at length, having done all in his power to avert the threatened evil, he retired to rest late at night, fully expecting to be aroused before daylight by the roar of British artillery. We now know the happy result, and that, under the providence of God, much of it was due to the promptitude and foresight of Washington. We now see the momentous consequences which would have followed the consummation of Arnold's baseness; how, and by what a singular change of events, Washington's visit was delayed, and Arnold's escape effected, while even now, we recoil as we learn how a single expression dropped by Andre, prevented the springing of a mine which would have inevitably insured a failure to achieve our independence, and have left us colonial dependents upon the British Government. Andre was conveyed to the Robinson House, and thence to West Point, from which place he was removed to the village of Tappan, opposite Irvington, on the Hudson River Railroad, where a Board of General Officers, presided over by Major General Greene, was assembled to inquire into the facts of his case, and report their opinion. The Board found him acting in the character of a spy, and were of the opinion that, agreeably to the laws and usages of war, he ought to suffer death. In spite of every possible exertion of Sir Henry Clinton, the universal sympathy of the American officers, and the grief of Washington, whose heart was wrung with anguish when he gave the death-warrant, Andre was executed at Tappan, on the 2d of October, 1780, and died, in truth, "lamented even by his foes." The miserable and unhappy career of Arnold need not be pursued. Rewarded by the British Government with a Brigadier-General's commission and a grant of £10,000, he died in London in 1801.[B] Constitution Island CONSTITUTION ISLAND To the visitor at West Point, the objective spot of the stirring scenes described, each wooded height and rocky bluff recalls the times when our fathers, regardless of personal hardship, suffering and death, labored to secure the priceless boon of freedom. "There's not a verdant blade, nor mountain hoary, But treasures up the memories of freedom's story." One hundred and fifty-seven feet above the river, on a plateau, embracing about fifty acres of level ground, stands [23] [24] [25] [26] [27] [28] [29] [30] the United States Military Academy, established by an Act of Congress in 1802. The approach to this plateau from the steam-ferry landing, is up a carriage road, excavated in the almost perpendicular rocky bank, conveying the visitor past the Riding-hall, the Cavalry stables, and the Library building, to the crest of the plain, where the natural beauty of the latter, and its wonderful adaptation for locating a great military educational institution, first excites admiration. The plateau, which affords ample space for all military evolutions appertaining to artillery, infantry, and cavalry, is bounded on the west by lofty and rugged hills, at the base of which are situated the various Academic buildings, the Cadet Barracks, and the residences of the officers and professors. Proceeding on to the West Point Hotel, an old fort is seen on the north-east angle of the plain, known as Fort Arnold, until the treason of the apostate became exposed, when the name, thenceforth unknown in American history, was changed to Fort Clinton. From the Hotel, situated on the north side of the plain, the lake-like river view is unobstructed for nearly ten miles, and presents in its constantly varying aspect of sunlight and shadow on the rugged mountain sides, in its periods of storm and repose on the water, and in its ever changing variety of steamers and river craft, a scene which for boldness and beauty stands unrivalled even in America, and is elsewhere unknown throughout the world. The pencil of the artist, the skill of the photographer, and the depths of language, have striven to portray the exceeding loveliness of the vista presented from this spot, while tourists fresh from the Alpine beauties of Switzerland and the Rhine, from Italy, Scotland and Wales, and from the overland wilds of the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, alike render homage to the glorious landscape here spread before them. Immediately to the north, and almost at the feet of the spectator, lies Constitution Island, with the exposed ruins of old Fort Constitution near the water's edge, and a little below which the end of the great chain was attached; while beyond may be seen the forge and furnace stacks of the Foundry, and the spires and dwellings in the village of Cold Spring. To the right, and farther up, Bull Hill and Breakneck Mountains, rise respectively 1,580 and 1,187 feet, the latter bearing Pollopel's Island, nearly opposite, while the city of Newburg, with the Shawangunk Mountain range for a background, fades away almost imperceptibly in the distance. On the left, the Crow Nest towers 1,428 feet above the water, with Washington's Valley nestling between it and the Cemetery. "Moore's House," from which the orders of Washington emanated in 1779, was situated in the valley bearing his name. Leaving the Hotel by a pathway to the west, the visitor is conducted to the siege battery of rifled guns, exhibiting the form and structure of a field work, and from thence to a grove of elms, where a variety of trophy guns are to be seen, taken during the Revolution, in the war of 1812, in Mexico, and in the late rebellion. A portion of the great chain surrounds the beautiful gun "Le Monarque," presented by Congress to Lafayette, and one or two mortars captured by General Wayne at Stony Point. Beside the antique mortars and guns from Mexico, inscribed with the names of the places from which they came, there are two English rifled Blakely guns, from Fort Pulaski, two carronades, or ship's pivot guns, from Hilton Head, one 8-inch rifled Blakely, from Fort Morgan, all captured from the rebels; and the fragments of Gen. Gilmore's famous 30-pound Parrott gun, from Morris Island, which hurled 4,606 projectiles at Charleston before it assumed its present condition. These trophies, scarred and bruised by shot, and many other large guns made for experimental purposes, cannot fail to afford an interesting subject for contemplation. The large granite ball was brought by Gen. Delafield from the Crimea, where it is said such projectiles were thrown from mortars by the Russians, to crush the decks of the blockading fleet. The spot is further interesting from its having been dedicated as the site of the proposed Battle Monument, designed to be erected by subscription among the surviving officers and soldiers, to the memory of the officers of the regular army who fell during the rebellion. A little to the westward, a walled enclosure, embracing the Ordnance Laboratory, is situated, and there may be seen a great variety of trophy guns from Cedar Creek and from Vicksburg, among which is the famous "Whistling Dick," an English rifled breech-loading Whitworth gun, captured on Morris Island, and the formidable Armstrong gun, captured at Fort Fisher, off Wilmington. Here, also, may be seen the gun from Elder's Battery, which fired the last shot previous to the surrender of Lee's Army. These, and a great variety of torpedoes, shot, shells and other Rebel implements of warfare, will well repay the visitor by the variety of design they exhibit. Pursuing the road down the hill, to the North wharf, the Sea-coast battery, with its armament of rifled monsters, consisting of 30-pound, 100, 200, and 300-pound Parrots, the 15-inch gun, and the 13-inch mortar, all capable of hurling projectiles as far as Pollopel's Island, or beyond, arrests the attention of the observer, and furnishes tangible evidences of the triumphant progress of manufacturing skill in weapons of war. Returning by the road to the crest of the Plain, and proceeding west, a road to the left leads up the hill to Fort Putnam. The old fort, long neglected, and subject to the assaults of wintry blasts and beating storms, rises high above the Plain, and there, in grim majesty, it patiently awaits the silent march of disintegration and general decay. Approached in the mellow light of an evening sunset, when a single pencil of rays lingers and illuminates the crests of the mountains in the east, and a few scattered clouds, tinged with scarlet, gold and silver tints, fading and blending in perfect harmony with the deep blue of the firmament, indicate the close of the day; a single drum breaks upon the solemn stillness around, and directly after, a full chorus of music from the Band on the Plain below, proclaims the arrival of the hour for evening parade. Immediately echo takes up the strain, and repeats them in tones softer and sweeter, and fainter, until mountain, river and plain, all resound with notes of exquisite melody. Then the pulse quickens even in those habitually insensible to the beautiful spectacle here unfolded, and the visitor seems to breathe a new existence in an ideal world, until the reverberations of the evening gun announce the passage of another day, and the nearer approach of that period when the mighty Angel shall proclaim that "time was, but time shall be no more." Were the same scene to be presented daily from this spot for all time, it would never cease to be a delight to make a pilgrimage to the glorious old Fort, while the vivid memories of its former patriot occupants, and their labors are [30] [31] [32] [33] [34] [35] [36] treasured up and remembered. But a constant change is going on, and the same object presents itself to the eye in many different aspects. The beautiful river, from small beginnings, flowing down shelving rocks and flowering banks, is swollen in mighty grandeur until it bursts asunder the mountain barriers, and sweeps along, bearing on its broad bosom the wealth of two hemispheres, to lose itself in the limitless ocean, and become a part of the eternity of waters. The never-ceasing progress of the seasons, beginning with the first born bud of Spring, and so proceeding through each varying phase, to the period when the snow-capped mountains and the ice-bound river are ready to expose anew their surfaces to the reviving and gladdening warmth of showery April. The very rising and setting of the sun; the clear, blue sky, speckled with snowy fleece; the hurry and rush of the mountain storm through the gorge, unite to keep up an ever- changing panorama of all that is lovely and grand in nature. Prominent among the many objects of interest which claim the attention of the observer from this point, may be seen Redoubt No. 4, on Rocky Hill, immediately in rear of the fort; the ruined parapets of Forts Wyllis and Webb lying southward, each enveloped in a cluster of cedars; and to the east, on the opposite side of the river, the North and South redoubts on the hill, in rear of Garrisons, environed by similar groups of the same beautiful vine-clad evergreen. The entire vicinity, rising as it does abruptly from the river to the terrace above, with wooded uplands, and bright green slopes beyond, is adorned with sumptuous country seats, gleaming through the tufts of foliage that surround them, and the lordly Hudson, with its furrowing keels and snowy sails, all unite to present a landscape, the beauty of which the pencil of the artist has vainly striven to portray. The buildings appropriated to the occupation and education of the Cadets, are not without attractive interest to the visitor. The Cadets' Barrack, from its magnitude, symmetrical proportions, durability, and castellated structure, seldom fails to elicit commendation from all lovers of architecture who are drawn to its vicinity. The building contains eight divisions, of which two are assigned to each of the four companies of Cadets. Two occupants only are found in a room, each uniformly furnished with an iron bedstead, an iron table, chair, books, and wearing apparel; all other furniture being carefully excluded as unnecessary or unworthy of the student soldier. Warmed by furnaces, lighted by gas, with daily access to bath-rooms, and invigorated by their military exercises, the Cadets present an appearance of health and contentment seldom seen in other collegiate institutions. The Academic Building contains, on the first floor, a gymnasium, with bowling-alleys, an apartment for fencing and sword exercise, and the Chemical laboratory. The second floor contains recitation rooms, and the models and collections pertaining to the departments of Engineering and Mineralogy and Geology. Besides the models of bridges, buildings, engines, and arches, illustrative of the progress of civil engineering, others relating to field works, fortifications, their system of attack and defense, and the models of Fort Wagner, before Charleston, and San Juan d'Ulloa, off Vera Cruz, will claim attention. The third floor is occupied by recitation and lecture rooms, the Picture gallery, Drawing Academy, and the Museum of ordnance and trophies. The Picture gallery contains specimens selected from the productions of the most proficient Cadets in the classes which have gone forth since 1838, and among them the names of many prominent army officers will be recognized. Regarded as an evidence of skill and cultivated taste, on the part of those who were first made aware of their power to acquire the art of sketching and coloring after entering the Military Academy, and as the result of a few months' instruction, no one can view this collection without experiencing the liveliest feelings of satisfaction and pleasure. The Museum of ordnance and trophies exhibits all the various progressive stages in the manufacture of swords, muskets, cartridges, powder, and shot; models of field and siege guns, and the anatomical structure of horses for instruction in the department of cavalry. The collection of ancient and experimental weapons; of Rebel torpedoes, and Rebel shot from many battle-fields; of flag-staffs and flags from Mexico; Indian trophies and curious projectiles, and the numerous flags borne by the regular army in the last war with England, in the Florida war, in Mexico, and in the Rebellion, with their inscriptions, excites a degree of interest which cannot be overcome by a momentary glance. The colors of the Fourth Regiment of U.S. Infantry bear the following historical inscriptions: The first Flag Carried 1794. Retained at Reorganization1808. Tippecanoe 1811. IN THE FLORIDA WAR. Gaines's Pen 1836. Thlonalosassa 1836. Okeechobee 1837. IN THE MEXICAN WAR. Palo Alto 1846. Resaca de la Palma 1846. Monterey 1816. Vera Cruz 1847. Churubusco 1847. Molino del Rey 1847. Chapultepec 1847. City of Mexico 1847. [37] [38] [39] [40] [41] [42] IN THE REBELLION. Yorktown 1862. Gaines's Mill 1862. Malvern Hill 1862. Bull Run No. 2 1862. Antietam 1862. Fredericksburg 1862. Chancellorsville 1863. Gettysburg 1863. Wapping Heights 1863. Wilderness 1864. Spottsylvania 1864. North Anna River 1864. Po-Potmail Creek 1864. Coal Harbor 1864. Petersburg 1864. Lee's Surrender 1865. The colors of some other regiments and batteries bear even a greater number of inscriptions, but none date as far back in the past. A pedestal and shell, brought from South Carolina, is inscribed on its four sides by Rebel and Union hands, as follows: FIRST FACE. Fifteen Inch Hollow Shot, fired by the Abolition Fleet of Iron Clads, at Fort Sumter, April 7, 1863. SECOND FACE. Presented to the Citadel Academy, By General G.T. Beauregard, Charleston, S.C., April 27, 1863. THIRD FACE. Taken at Columbia, S.C., Feb. 17, 1865, By the troops of the United States, under Major-General W.T. Sherman. FOURTH FACE. Presented to the U.S. Military Academy, By Major-General Wm. B. Hazen, April 1, 1865. The centre of the room is occupied by a model of the Silver Mine of Valenciana, in Mexico, purchased in the City of Mexico in 1847, by subscription among the officers of the army, whose names are affixed. The upper surface represents the operatives, made of silver amalgam, practising their several divisions of labor, while the sides exhibit the galleries of the mine, with the miners at work. The case contains, besides, many mineral specimens, and models of Aztec idols. The whole is surmounted by an eagle and a portion of drapery taken from over the Vice-President's Chair in the Mexican Senate Chamber. In the Chapel, east of the Academic building, may be seen a fine picture over the chancel, by Professor Weir, typical of Mars and Minerva. On the west side, the walls present memorial tablets of the general officers of the Revolution, and the guns presented by Congress to Major-General Greene, implanted beside a niche of trophy colors taken from English and Hessian regiments. On the east side are memorial tablets of all the officers of our army who fell in the Mexican War, and trophy guns and colors taken by Generals Scott and Taylor, during their campaigns in the same war. The Library Building contains temporarily the offices of the Superintendent, Adjutant, Quartermaster, and Treasurer. On the second floor, which is not usually open to visitors, is situated the Lecture-room and apparatus of the department of Philosophy and Astronomy. The dome contains an equatorial telescope, and the flank towers a transit instrument and [43] [44] [45] mural circle. The Library occupies the east end of the building. It contains about 20,000 volumes, chiefly on professional and scientific subjects, and several fine portraits of former Superintendents and Chiefs of the Engineer Department. The capacious Riding Hall stands on the bank of the river, a little below the Library; and from the interesting exercises therein, it is deservedly regarded as one of the most attractive points at the Military Academy. The hours for riding are from 11 A.M. to 1 P.M., except during the period of the Cadets' encampment, with occasional interruptions, when the evolutions of a squadron are practised on the Plain. The course of instruction embodies running at the heads, running at the ring with poised sabre, exercises with pistols, leaping bars and hurdles, and many other feats which afford little room for monotony or wearisome interest, even among those accustomed to witnessing equestrian displays. Northward from the Library a path leads down the bank to Kosciuszko's Garden—a shelving terrace overhung with shrubbery, and rendered inviting by a cool spring of water, and a tradition that the patriot Pole, whose name the spot bears, here sought retirement and seclusion. The Monument to "Dade and his Command" tells its own story, and American history has yet to furnish an example of devotion to duty similar to that exhibited by those whose names are here inscribed. A little beyond is seen Battery Knox, whose armament proclaims the tidings on all occasions of national joy or sadness. From this point, the lower pathway, called the "Chain Battery Walk," conducts the visitor through a delightful ramble to Gee's Point and the North Wharf, or by a branch, to the Hotel above. The upper path returns to the road along the crest of the bank, and a few steps brings the tourist to Fort Clinton. Within the latter, on the extreme angle nearest the river, stands a marble column, sacred to military virtue in the person of Kosciuszko, and forming in itself by reason of the ideas it evokes, a striking contrast to the dark halo of despite and shame that hovers around the name of Arnold, whose apostasy is inseparably connected with the very name of West Point. Thaddeus Kosciuszko was a native of Poland, whose education began at Warsaw and was completed at Paris. Having determined to cast his lot with the Americans, then struggling for liberty, he was furnished by Franklin with letters to Washington, and came to America. He was appointed Aide-de-Camp to Washington, and subsequently commissioned as Colonel of Engineers. Highly distinguished for his courage and skill in the campaign against Burgoyne, and as the directing Engineer at West Point, he returned to Poland at the close of the Revolution, rewarded by the thanks of Congress and the commission of Brevet Brigadier-General, to serve as a General of Division under Poniatowski. In the Polish Insurrection of 1793 he was chosen Generalissimo, with the powers of a Roman Dictator. He immediately issued a decree, authorizing the insurrection, and at once proceeded to unite the Polish divisions, and in a few days the Russians were driven from the Palatinate. Meantime, the Prussians having joined Russia, the rest of the struggle was a continuous resistance against superior forces, until at last, at Maciejowice, on the 10th of October, 1794, he was completely defeated and overwhelmed by the Russians. He fell wounded from his horse, with the bitter wail on his lips, "Finis Polonie." Taken prisoner, and conveyed to a fortress near St. Petersburg, he underwent a long confinement until the accession of Paul I., who, feeling an admiration for his character, restored him to freedom, and presented him with his sword. "I have no longer occasion for a sword," sadly replied Kosciuszko, "since I have no longer a country." He visited America in 1797, and was triumphantly and warmly welcomed by the grateful people. He returned to Switzerland and resided at Solothurn, where he died on October 15, 1817. His body was interred at Cracow with great pomp in the funeral vaults of the Kings of Poland, between the coffins of Poniatowski and Sobieski. The Senate decreed in his honor the erection of an enormous mound on the Heights of Bronislawad. The gratuitous labor of all classes succeeded in raising this "Mound of Kosciuszko" to the height of 300 feet in three years, and it will remain for ages a noble monument of his country's gratitude. Kosciuszko was never married, and the simple column at West Point, in full view of thousands of travelers, will long serve as a memorial of gratitude from the American nation, and an enduring protest against the destruction of Poland, and the ruin and death of many freedom lovers as noble and virtuous as Kosciuszko himself. The "Drives" at West Point and its vicinity, although limited in extent by the rugged character of the region, are possessed of infinite variety and beauty, from the constantly changing aspect of river, mountain, and valley. Besides the routes on the Post itself, the road South, along the riverbank to Fort Montgomery, about four miles distant, from its smoothness, easy grades, and the numerous attractive residences by the wayside, affords many present and pleasing after reminiscences of a sojourn at this delightful retreat. Prominent among these attractions, and scarcely a mile distant from West Point, on the very brink of a precipice towering over the Hudson, stands Cozzens' Hotel, the name of which is inseparably associated with the name of its founder, whose benevolence, geniality, and hospitality is so intimately connected with West Point and the traveling public. West Point and its Vicinity. 1866. 1866. West Point and its Vicinity. Directly west of the Hotel stands the picturesque little church of the "Holy Innocents," erected by Professor Weir, to commemorate the early decease of two of his children. A little distance below, the village of Highland Falls is situated, on both sides of a mountain stream bearing the name of Buttermilk Falls, derived from the foaming passage of the water over steep rocks into the Hudson below. From this point onward to Fort Montgomery, the occasional expanse of the river, the charming country seats dotting the bank, and the magnificence of the mountains, continually inspires a feeling [46] [47] [48] [49] [50] [51] of happiness and contentment. Fort Montgomery is situated on the north bank of Pooplopen's Creek, at its junction with the Hudson. It is elevated about 130 feet above the water, and the view from its ruined parapet covers an extent, and surpasses if possible in wildness, the landscape seen from the West Point Hotel. Fort Clinton, similarly elevated, stood directly opposite on the south side of the creek, and both works possess more than ordinary interest from having been the scene of a bloody assault and capture by a British force, under the command of Sir Henry Clinton, in October 1777. The forts were simultaneously carried at the point of the bayonet by overwhelming numbers; the last named, by a column moving up the bank of the river, and the former, by one moving down the valley, between the Dunderberg and Bear Mountain, through which the creek makes its way. From West Point westward, the road diverges to the Cemetery, overlooking Camptown, where the soldiers are quartered, Washington's Valley, a little beyond, Constitution Island, the Foundry, and the village of Cold Spring. The tasteful monuments, with their military insignia and mournful inscriptions, unveil the attachment of many who fell in Florida, Mexico, Oregon, and in the Rebellion, for the spot protected and consecrated by their Alma Mater. The branch road south, immediately without the first West gate, leads to Fort Putnam, and intersects the river route a little above Cozzens' Hotel. The main road west, known as the "Canterbury Road," leads to Turner's Station, on the Erie Railroad, about fourteen miles distant, passing Long Pond, and the vicinity of many other ponds indicated on the map, most of which afford fine resorts for angling and hunting in the appropriate season. Three miles from West Point a branch from this road leads across the mountain to Canterbury, Cornwall, and Newburg, but the route is so rough as to render it unsuitable for pleasure driving. Just before reaching this point a road extends south through Eagle Valley to Highland Falls, affording a circuit of about seven miles, through a region abounding with new beauties at every turn. The road is in good condition, and the proposed intention of the Cozzens' Brothers to add to the attractions of their Hotel by erecting a mountain retreat at the Round Pond, will doubtless lead to further improvements. The "Drives" on the east side of the Hudson are easy of access by the steam ferry, and are possessed of even stronger attractions. From the landing the road rises to the "Highland House," and from thence southward as far as Anthony's Nose, the route is one of exquisite beauty. Besides the numerous country seats, nowhere surpassed in elegance, and the thriving farms along the way, the Robinson House, situated at the base of Sugar Loaf Mountain, about one mile below, presents an object of deep and attractive interest. Preserved with all its original features, and as far as possible in the same condition as when it was made the scene of Arnold's treachery—hallowed by the footsteps of Washington and almost every general officer of the Revolution, and rendered impressive from its antiquity and the absence of all evidences of the progress of modern architecture and comfort, the Robinson House has survived, with its umbrageous foliage, for nearly a century, and remains at this day almost the only relic of its former princely proprietor. From the Highland House northward the road, remarkable for its smoothness and delightful sheltering trees, extends to Indi...