The Project Gutenberg EBook of Glimpses of America, by James W. Buel This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Glimpses of America Our Country's Scenic Marvels Author: James W. Buel Release Date: August 3, 2019 [EBook #60051] Language: English Character set encoding: UTF-8 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GLIMPSES OF AMERICA *** Produced by Richard Hulse and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive) Transcriber Notes Missing punctuation and obvious typos corrected, other inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation in the original retained. cover SHOSHONE TUNNEL, CAÑON OF GRAND RIVER. HISTORICAL FINE ART SERIES. “GLIMPSES OF AMERICA” A PICTORIAL AND DESCRIPTIVE HISTORY OF Our Country’s Scenic Marvels, DELINEATED BY PEN AND CAMERA. By J. W. BUEL, Who, in a Special Photograph Car and accompanied by a corps of accomplished Artists, visited every part of the United States and Canada, to picture and describe all the wonderful scenery found therein. PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE PICTURESQUE WONDERLANDS OF NORTH AMERICA. From Regions of Perpetual Ice to Lands of Perennial Sunshine. PUBLISHED BY HISTORICAL PUBLISHING COMPANY, PHILADELPHIA. The Engravings in this volume were made from original photographs, and are specially protected by Copyright, and notice is hereby given, that any person or persons guilty of reproducing or infringing the copyright in any way will be dealt with according to law. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1894, by H. S. SMITH, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. All rights reserved. train car TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE The Sublimely Grand and Incomparable Scenery of America.—Picturesque lands and places of other countries—Engagement of a corps of Photographers—Equipment of our Camera car—A trip to the Rocky Mountains—Hasty resumé of the pictorial districts visited—From summer climes to Alaska’s glacial shores—Excursions by car, stage, donkey and foot—Educational benefits of the tour—The work one of patriotic incitement, 6-16 CHAPTER I. Among the Wild Scenes of Colorado.—Through the Gateway of the Rockies—Wondrous visions—In the cañons of Bear Creek—Colossal cleavage of Clear Creek—A submerged forest of petrified trees—Among the clouds—Devil’s Gate to Bridal Veil Falls—The Loop at Georgetown—Silver Flume—Cornucopias of silver—Over the switchback to silver lands—Between towering crags— Terrific convulsions of nature—Dome Rock—Invocation of surging waters—The highest point ever reached by rail—A marvelous tunnel—An astounding view—Through Boulder Cañon and into North Park—A tour of Estes Park—Visits to Long’s Peak and Bald Mountain—Wild game in savage haunts—Climbing the American Matterhorn—Bewildering prospect from the “key-hole”—A trip to Table Mountain and examination of the glaciers—A journey through Middle Park—A story of Grand Lake—Away up on a dizzy brink, 17-40 CHAPTER II. Manitou the Mighty.—Twin cities that sit at the feet of Pike’s Peak—A spell of wonderment wrought by the eccentricities of nature—God’s acres of tumultuous stone—The story of Major Pike’s discovery—The first ascent of Pike’s Peak—The cog-wheel railroad to the summit—A trip to cloud- land—The wonderful panorama to be surveyed from the peak—A battalion of mountains in review —A storm on the mountain—Ute Pass to Cascade Cañon—Rainbow Falls and Grand Caverns— From the Cave-of-the-Winds down William’s Cañon—Garden of the Gods—Nature in wild riot of gruesome forms and sublime creations—Through Glen Eyrie and Monument Park—Witcheries that confound imagination—A visit to Cheyenne Cañon—Seven Falls—Entrancing hymns of nature— Legends of the Manitou, 41-62 CHAPTER III. Grand Cañons of Western Rivers.—A land of graceful, deep-leaping waterfalls—A park of marvelous petrifactions—Buena Vista, the beautiful view—Sportsmen’s Paradise—Through Hagerman Tunnel to Mount of the Holy Cross—Grand River Cañon—Sixteen miles of natural wonders—The Grand Cañon of the Colorado—Major Powell’s Trip from Green River to Yuma—A perilous journey richly recompensed—Flaming Gorge and Horseshoe Cañons—Tossed by dangerous rapids into halls and temples carved by Titans—In a chasm 7,000 feet deep—Caverns of Enchantment and walls flecked with rainbow colors—A borderland of phantasy—Cave habitations of an extinct race—Story of the hunted refugees—Vermilion Cliffs, Temples of the Virgin and Marble Cañon—Glories that thrill the heart with ecstasy, and fill the soul with reverence, 63-84 CHAPTER IV. Marvels of the Great Desert.—Magnificence of the scenery along Grand River—From mountain to plain—Beautiful Provo Falls—Our great inland sea—Fruitfulness of Salt Lake Valley—A wall of mountains around Salt Lake—Shores of ancient Lake Bonneville, now America’s Dead Sea— Islands of Salt Lake—The Mormon City and how it was founded—Red Butte and Emigrant Cañons —Garfield Beach and Giant’s Cave—Echo and Weber Cañons—Valleys of marvelous diversity— The Devil’s Slide and the Witches’ Playground—Beaver River Gulch and scenic wonders about Ogden—A trip across the creviced lava fields of Idaho—The magnitude and awfulness of Shoshone Falls—A second Niagara in the desert—Twin, Cascade and Bridal Veil Falls—A realistic description of this incomparable wonderland, 85-112 CURRECANTI NEEDLE, ON CURRECANTI RIVER, COLORADO. CHAPTER V. PAGE Over the Heights and into the Deeps of Wonderland.—Through the portals of Black Cañon— Astounding views along Gunnison River—Chippeta Falls and Currecanti Needle—A sight of Fossil Ridge and the Cone of Ouray—The trip over Marshall Pass—The terrible mightiness of the Royal Gorge—Hanging Bridge—The tempestuously craggy route between Ironton and Ouray—Marvelous engineering skill—Weirdly savage Animas Cañon—A railroad balcony 1,500 feet above the river— A flight high as the eagle’s—Kit Carson’s Exploits in Cañon de Chelle—The awesomeness of Toltec Gorge—A parade-ground of Nature’s Idols—Looking down upon the world—Blooming flowerland of San Luis Park—Down through Comanche Cañon—A side trip to ruined pueblos and cliff dwellings in New Mexico—Something about an extinct race—The Grave of Kit Carson—Some history of remarkable interest—The ancient Pueblo Indians and their dwellings—Magnificent ruins of the Casa Grandes—Montezuma’s Palace—Evidences of a walled and towered city—Prehistoric man in New Mexico, 113-152 CHAPTER VI. Across the Cactus Desert into California’s Golden Land.—The Zuni plateau—Approach to the Grand Cañon of the Colorado—A scene of overpowering sublimity—A Mohave Village—Death Valley— From sterility to fertility—Monterey and its attractions—A visit to the Lick Observatory and the great telescope—In and around San Francisco—The Seals’ Sporting Grounds—The Mariposa grove of big trees—A trip through the wondrous valley of the Yosemite—A stage journey through a region of incomparable grandeur—Wonders and curiosities of the Yosemite—Falls of extraordinary beauty and peaks of amazing height—The Calaveras big trees—The journey from Ogden to California— Across the great American desert—Indian camps along the way—The Humboldt Palisades—Lake Tahoe—The sad story of the Donner party—Along the lofty crest of American Cañon—Giant’s Gap and Cape Horn—The beautiful Sacramento Valley, 153-192 CHAPTER VII. Our Journey Through Picturesque Regions of the Northwest.—Winter in vernal climes—A plunge into the Siskiyou Range—the light that crowns Shasta’s head—Soda Springs that titillate the palate like champagne—Exquisite Mossbrae Falls—A glorious sight from Portland’s heights—Lofty peaks of the Cascade Range—A trip up the Columbia—Pictorial shores that lend charm to interest—Its dales, palisades and waterfalls—A panorama of extraordinary grandeur—A side trip to Crater Lake— Traditions of the Klamath Indians—The most marvelous body of water on earth—Indian legend of creation, the flood and repeopling of the world—Wondrous visions on the lake—The core of a great volcano—A Siwash legend of the Saviour—A voyage to Alaska—First sight of the glaciers—In the land of icebergs—Description of Muir Glacier—Birth of icebergs—History of the glacial epoch— Facts and fancies about Alaskan natives—Their religion and mortuary customs—Oh, glorious night of the North! 193-234 CHAPTER VIII. Across the Mountains to Yellowstone Park.—A detour on the Canadian Pacific Railroad—Magnificent scenery along Fraser River—Green lakes on mountain brows—Canadian National Park—A glimpse of the Sandwich Islands through other eyes than ours—Down the Yakimer River—Spokane and Palouse Falls—Sights along Snake River—Pinnacle Rocks—Lost Falls—Lakes of marvelous beauty and rivers of torrential flow—A trip to the 12 falls of the Missouri—Our visit to Yellowstone Park— The wondrous gateway to Gardiner Cañon—Nesting place of the sentinel eagle—Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces—Remarkable formations more beautiful than the Cave of Stalacta—Springs glowing with brilliant coloring—Terraces of petrified rainbows—Through the Golden Gate, by deep cañon, lofty waterfall and far-soaring cliffs—In purgatorial regions—Growling caves and spouting Geysers—The Devil’s Kitchen and his Majesty’s Mush-pot—Along Firehole River and into the Lower Basin—The land of fearful surprises and volcanic energy—Yellowstone Lake and its game- abounding shores—Death Valley and Petrified Forest—Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone and its flowing beauties—Tower and Yellowstone Falls—A grave-yard of mammoth quadrupeds, 235-288 CHIPPETA FALLS, IN BLACK CAÑON OF GUNNISON RIVER. CHAPTER IX. PAGE Among the Wonders of the Black Hills.—Beautiful Dells of the St. Croix—Scenes of the last Indian uprising—The scenery about Deadwood—Tumultuous wonders of Custer Park—Marvels of Elk Creek Cañon—Harney’s Peak and Wedge Rock—Horseshoe Curve—Keith’s Crystal Cave—A trip to the Belle Fourche—Astounding wonder of the Devil’s Tower—A basaltic column higher than the Eiffel Tower—Speculations concerning its formation—Crow Butte and Signal Rock—A story of Indian heroism—St. Anthony’s Falls—Charming beauty of Minnehaha—Dells of the St. Croix—The Devil’s Fishing Place—Customs of the Wisconsin Indians—Making a Medicine Man—Witchery of the Wisconsin Dells—Cleavages of extraordinary curiosity—Funeral ceremonies of the Ojibways— Wonders of Devil’s Lake and Camp Douglas—Through the Straits of Mackinaw—Picturesqueness of Superior’s Shores—Pictured palisades and frozen waterfalls—Scenery along the north shore—A trip down the Mississippi, 289-344 CHAPTER X. Scenic Marvels of the Great Northeast.—Mountain scenes in the vicinity of Eureka Springs—Legend of the Starved Rock in Illinois—Sublime glories and immensity of Niagara Falls—Utilization of the waters—Some interesting scientific facts—The Mohawk Valley and Leather Stocking Stories— Magnificence of Watkin’s and Havana Glens—The poetry of idyllic retreats—Down through the Thousand Islands—Chateaugay Chasm—Cañons of the Ausable and bewildering glories of the Adirondacks—Hunting grounds of the great North wilderness—Scenes of incomparable grandeur— Story of our tramp through the Catskills—A trip down the Hudson—Places famous in American history—West Point and its noted surroundings, 345-382 CHAPTER XI. A Pictorial Tour of the Eastern States.—A trip through the scenic regions of Canada—Torrential mightiness of Chaudiere Falls—The falls of Montreal River—A trip through Lachine Rapids— Something about the early history of Quebec—Winter sports in Montreal—The home of Queen Victoria’s father—Beautiful scenery in the vicinity of Quebec—A journey through the New England States—The Green Mountains of Vermont—Description of the White Mountains—Singular examples of nature sculpturing—Ascension of the highest peaks and bewildering views therefrom— The cog-wheel railroad up Mount Washington—Sensations and charms of the ascent—A typical village in a New Hampshire valley—Vagaries and reveries of a poetaster—Wild grandeur of Wild- Cat River—Afloat on the pretty lakes of New Hampshire—From Maine to Boston—Historic places of Massachusetts, and the stories connected with them—Curiosities around Pittsfield and description of the Shaker settlement, 383-414 CHAPTER XII. On Historic Fields of Virginia and Pennsylvania.—From the Blue Grass Regions to the Shenandoah— Scenery of the Kanawha River and Blue Ridge Mountains—Marvelous Natural Bridge of Virginia— Some remarkable scenes in East Tennessee—Pen-pictures of some of the mountaineers—War memories that are fast fading—The Great Smoky Mountains—Portraitures of North Carolinians, and some typical farm scenes—Scenery about Asheville—A tragic story of the ascent of Mount Mitchell —A visit to Luray Caverns—Beauties of the Under-world that dazzle with their splendor— Descriptions of the subterranean chambers—Valley of the Shenandoah—Memorable battle-fields— Down the Juniata—Scenery of the Susquehanna—Visit to a land of waterfalls beyond the Water Gap, 415-448 CHAPTER XIII. Through Languorous Lands of the Sunny South.—A visit to the Gettysburg battle-field—Through the Wilderness of Virginia—Scene of the closing event of the war—From Fortress Monroe to the Dismal Swamp—Story of Nat Turner’s Insurrection—A Dream of the Old Cabin Home—From Georgia to the orange lands of Florida—Olden times in St. Augustine—A boat journey down Indian River, into a land of perpetual bloom—Visions of tropic beauty and luxuriance—A trip on St. John’s River, and on the Ocklawaha—Alligators, snakes, and other slimy things—Marvels of Silver Spring —’Way Down Upon the Suwanee River—From Mobile to New Orleans—A trip to Mammoth Cave—Descriptions of its subterranean wonders—A tour of Wyandotte Cave—Magnificence of its halls, in which the splendors of Aladdin’s Cavern are reproduced—Conclusion, 449-503 BERYL SPRINGS AND CLEOPATRA TERRACE, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. A FAMILY OF PUEBLO INDIANS, NEW MEXICO. “WHALE-BACK” BOAT of GLIMPSES OF AMERICA. he most interesting, because most diversified, country in the world is America, and the center of that unexampled interest belongs to the territory comprised within the United States. The castles of England, crushed by the hand of time; the lochs and friths of Scotland, that murmur to the sea their wails of the Viking invaders; the lakes and heaths of Ireland, around which old legends hold perpetual carnival; the Rhine of Germany, whose banks are strewn with the relics of feudalism; the Bernese Alps, that flaunt their whitened locks like aged giants taunting the walled cities about which the sound of battle still seems to linger; the red glare of Vesuvius, wrestling with fiery wrath in mad ambition to overwhelm the cities built upon her ashes; the roar and blaze of Ætna, that growls with the voice of Polyphemus thirsting for the life of Ulysses; the hills of Greece, on which a thousand gods held council; the welling breast of Mother Nile, carrying to the sea remembrances of her ancient children; the Holy Land, blooming with sacred memories that fill the human heart with fragrance; the mighty peaks of Himalayas, piercing the heavens with frosted heads and draped with the fogs of centuries; the plains of Asshur, where Babylon stood, and the wrath of God was kindled. All these, and more, speak with siren tongue to lure the traveler and give him appetite for history. But, if we except the associations which make these places of the Old World memorable, the student of nature will find a thousand greater charms in the picturesque, grand, marvelous and sublime scenery that diversifies our own country. No picture has ever equaled the real, and no book has ever vividly described the wonders that God has scattered over the American landscape. We have had glimpses of mountain, plain, lake, river and cañon, but they have been little more than shadows of the reality, an intimation of a grandeur almost too great to depict. But as great telescopes have brought within our vision surprising views of other worlds, the rings of Saturn, the seas of Mars, and the burnt-out craters of the Moon, so has inventive genius been active in delineating the physical features of the earth, and through the perfection of photography we are now practically enabled to take the world in our hand and examine it with the same convenience that we can an orange. Travel is no longer necessary for the masses in order to behold the marvels of American scenery, for the camera has gathered them all and lays every inspiring scene upon even the poor man’s table, to minister to the delight of his family circle. But photography likewise blesses the traveler, for study of the picture establishes acquaintanceship with that which is represented, while accompanying description quickens his understanding and gives a more intelligent conception of the pictorial subject. It has been my good fortune to make many trips across the continent over the various railway lines; and business and pleasure have taken me during the past several years to nearly all the accessible parts of the country, reached by rail, boat or stage-coach. Always an admirer of nature, I have longed for the means to sketch or photograph the imposing scenery which caught my enraptured eye as I hurried by. This ambition prompted the really stupendous undertaking whose fruitage is now offered to the public in all its delicious flavor, in the form of a book as herewith submitted. How the photographic views herein reproduced were obtained may be thus briefly told, and is well worthy the relation: This book was conceived more than half a dozen years ago, but a press of other engagements caused a postponement of any effort at its preparation until the spring of 1890, when the publishers engaged a corps of artists, consisting of three of the best out-door photographers in the country. A passenger car was next chartered, which was remodeled so as to provide comfortable sleeping quarters for the men in one end, a kitchen in the other, while the center was fitted up as an operating-room for taking, developing and finishing pictures. Three cameras, of as many sizes, were also provided, with three thousand prepared plates, and a great quantity of paraphernalia which might be found useful for the expedition. Thus equipped, our photographic party left St. Louis early in May, going directly west to Denver, from which point we made excursions to all the near-lying parks, thence to Manitou, and by way of the Colorado Midland to Salt Lake. Our work about Salt Lake occupied considerable time, and after leaving there we proceeded to Weber Cañon and then by way of the Union Pacific to Shoshone Falls. We next returned by way of the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad, making a sweep southward, through Ouray and the Valley of the Gunnison, over Marshall Pass and to Pueblo by way of the Royal Gorge. Our party divided several times in order to cover the territory more expeditiously, and in making the trip into New Mexico one part entered by way of Trinidad from Pueblo and the other traveled directly south through Antonito, forming a junction again at Santa Fe. Some weeks were spent traveling off the line of road among the ruined villages of the Cliff-Dwellers, and in photographing the more rugged scenery of the Rio Grande River. Then we continued our journey westward over the Atlantic and Pacific and the Southern Pacific Railroads to California, where nearly three months were spent among the towns, Yosemite Valley, Big Trees and mountains of that summer-land. On the appearance of spring we traveled north by way of the California and Oregon Railroad, still making side trips by stage-coach and wagon, to Portland, from which point excursions were made up the Columbia and Willamette Rivers. At Victoria, British Columbia, we took steamer for Alaska, and returning we passed through the Cascade Range over the Northern Pacific, working our way back east. But we continued to make detours a long way off the main line of road, thus visiting the Falls of the Missouri, the Black Hills, the Custer battle-field, Devil’s Tower, and Yellowstone National Park, in which latter wonderland we spent two weeks photographing its scenery and extraordinary formations. More than three-fourths of the grandest views were inaccessible by rail, so other means of travel had to be adopted. Often it was by stage-coach, but frequently 11 12 13 “WHALE-BACK” BOAT of the NORTHERN LAKES. GOVERNOR’S RESIDENCE, PUEBLO OF TESUQUE, NEW MEXICO. THE URNS, MANITOU PARK. ON THE OCKLAWAHA RIVER, FLORIDA. ON THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT TACOMA, WASHINGTON. donkeys were our sole reliance; and when these little animals could not carry us to the most rugged points, we shouldered our instruments and scrambled to the peaks and abysses of necessary observation. The difficulties, dangers and hardships thus encountered were both great and numerous, while the expense involved was so far beyond our first calculations, that had it been anticipated in the beginning the enterprise would certainly never have been undertaken. We resumed our eastward journey thence to Superior Lake, Dells of the St. Croix, rapids of the Wisconsin, lakes and waterfalls of Minnesota, the Upper Mississippi through Lake Pepin, and back to St. Louis, the entire trip occupying more than eighteen months. Our camera car had served our purposes in a most gratifying manner while making the long tour of the West, but in the eastern tour, which remained to be performed, it was considered that the car would be of no special advantage, since accommodations are so much more easily obtained in the built-up sections of the East than in the thinly and sometimes totally unsettled districts of the West, where in many cases our car was our only shelter. The journey east was begun in October, from St. Louis to Chicago, thence to Niagara Falls, and then up the St. Lawrence. Our route next lay through the Green and White Mountains, and other famous sections of the New England States; thence west into the Adirondacks, Mohawk Valley and Lakes George and Champlain, then down the picturesque Hudson into the Catskills. Continuing our journey southward, we visited the points of grandest scenery in Virginia, North Carolina, and Eastern Tennessee, and then proceeded on to Florida, where a part of the winter was spent photographing everything worthy of a place in this volume. On the return trip Mammoth Cave in Kentucky, and Wyandotte Cave, in Indiana, received our attention, as well as other interesting places along the way, and early in February our labors were ended by a return to St. Louis to put the results in book form. Nearly all the descriptive writing was done while our party was on the way, and while the impressions produced by the glorious visions were fresh in the author’s mind. This work, accordingly, is practically one of inspiration, the whole constituting a story of extraordinary interest and a history of incomparable value. Illustrations, however fine, whether of wood or steel, represent the artist’s conceptions, dashed with an individual coloring that prevents a natural reproduction. The painter sketches his landscape from a special point of view, and working many days blends the sunrise with midday and sunset, the mists of morning with the clouds of noon, thus striving to please the eye rather than to truthfully present nature, without artificial adornments. Photography, on the other hand, is the mirror which reflects nature in all her changeful moods; the absolutely faithful reproducer of her every aspect, exhibiting her in her every-day garb, noting the disfigurements with no less fidelity than the sublime graces which she exhibits and all the widely diversified physical features which render her countenance so variable that admirer and scoffer alike find reason for urging their claims. No other attempt has ever been made to so perfectly picture the wonders of America, and the work has been so thoroughly accomplished that it is confidently believed no one, however great his ambition or lavish his expense, will be able to add anything to the completeness of our undertaking, as here submitted. Whatever may be the measure of deserving of the descriptive part of this book, certainly the photographic illustrations are worthy of all praise as fulfilling the conditions of masterpieces of American scenery, while the publishers are entitled to most generous public recognition for conceiving and so liberally endowing an enterprise, which has flowered in the fragrance and beauty of this exquisite work. It is seemly to add that our tour was made wholly at the expense of the publishers. Free transportation was offered us over all the railroads on which we traveled, but all such courtesies were uniformly refused, because an acceptance would have placed us under obligations to manifest some favoritism, and thus interfere with the declared purpose of the publishers to issue a work on American scenery in which the views and descriptions should be given truthfully, and without partiality. We therefore selected the routes which promised most satisfactory results, without regard to personal convenience, having in view the ambition to present and describe the most interesting, if not always the most famous, scenery of our country, and in so doing produce a work of which all Americans, like the publishers, may be justly proud. In this our celebrant year such a book is particularly appropriate, and the hope of the publishers, as it is of the author, is that our ambitious and worthy enterprise may find a warm welcome at the fireside of every American family. 14 15