Bernhard Roetzel MAN Gent i Digitized by the internet Archive 2013 in http://archive.org/details/gentlemantimelesOObern \ ForClaudia ©1999KonemaniiVerlagsgesellschaftmbH BonnerStraBe126,D-50968Cologne Design;PeterFeierabendand Malzkorn,BiirofiirGestaltungGmbH,Cologne ProjectCoordinator:KirstenE.Lehmann PictureEditor:MonikaBergmann ProductionManager:DetlevSchaper Production:MarkVoges Reproductions:Oniniascanners,Milan Originaltitle:DorGentleman ©1999fortheEnglisliedition KoneniannVerlagsgesellschaftmbH BonnerStrafie126,D-50968Cologne TranslationfromGcnriaii:(yhristineBainbridge,AntheaBell,TerryMoniiiandMartinPearce inassociationwithFirstEditionTranslationsLitl.CamliridMc,UK Editing;.lennyKnight Typesetting:First EditionTranslalionsLtd,('amliridge,UK ProjectCoordination;BettinaKaiifmannajidNarijaBremse PrintingandBinding:NcucStalling,Oldenburg Printedill(icniiany ISBN.i-8290-202iJ-r) 10 !) 8 7 (S 5 4 :! 2 I Bernhard Roetzel Gentleman A Timeless Fashion Art Direction Peter Feierabend Photography Giinter Beer KONEMANN Foreword of an Englishman The Shirt. 48 49 8 9 A Gentleman's Shirt 50 Good Shirts at a Glance 51 The Gentleman's Visiting Card CoUar Shapes 52 53 | 10 111 Cotton 54 55 I The Stuffthat Shirts are Made of 56 57 | Folding Your Shirt 57 The Beard 12 13 Jermyn Street 58 59 | The Best English Shirtmakers 60 61 | Shaving at Home 14 15 Howa Custom-Made Shirt is Created 62 63 1 At the Barber's 16 Checks for the Weekend 64 A GoodWet Shave 17 The Brooks Brothers Shirt 65 The Electric Shaver 18 19 The Right Shirt -the Right Fit 66 67 1 | Different Men, Different Beards 20 Washing and Ironing- Caring for Beards and Mustaches 21 the Fundamentals ofSliirt Care 68 69 I Timeless Fragrances 22 23 | The Perfumer's ABC 24 25 I The Necktie 70 71 The Hair 26 27 From Neckcloth to Ornamental Neckwear 72 Stars ofthe Stripes 73 The Joys ofVisiting the Hairdresser 28 29 A Good Necktie 74 | What ShouldI Put on My Hair? 30 31 WoolenNeckties 75 | The Right Way to Wash Hair 32 33 The Best ofthe Best 76 | Hairstyles with Character 34 35 A Great Success from the Grande Nation 77 | The Toupee: Forand Against 36 The Origins ofSilk 78 The Fake Hairofthe Stars 37 Making aNecktie 79 Chest Hair 37 The Master ofthe Custom-Made Necktie 80 The Royal Hairbrush 38 The Business Necktie 81 The Manicure 39 The Four-in-Hand 82 Howto Tie aNecktie 83 The Windsor Knot 83 Underwear 40 41 The Bow Tie 84 85 | Tying a BowTie 86 The Cravat 87 The Most Important Question ofAll 42 43 | Variations Underneath 44 45 | A Fly-Away Success 46 47 | The Suit 88 189 The Waist Area 140 The Tr-ousers in Detail 140 141 | Style in the Siiit 90 91 Other Countries, OtherTrousers 141 | Button Undone 91 All about Suspenders 142 | 143 The Mecca ofthe Custom-made Suit 92-95 The Right Belt 144 | 145 The English Suit 96 The Blazer-a Living Legend 146 | 147 Patterns and Fabrics 97 Blazerand Trousers 148 I 149 A Suit from Gieves and Hawkes 98-101 Chester Barrie 102 103 | Three Savile Row Customers 104 Shoes 150 151 The King ofStyle 105 The Right Kind ofTweed Suit 106 107 The Italian Suit 108 | Good shoes 152-155 Who's Who in Italy 109 John Lobb 156 | 157 Brioni-veni, vidi, vici 110 111 Formal shoes | Classics ofFashion 112 with closed lacing 158 | 159 The Hall ofFame 113 Formal shoes The Summer Suit 114 115 with open lacmg 160 | 161 | Brooks Brothers - New York Classics 116] 117 Loafers 162 | 163 Moccasins Italian Style 164 165 | Monkstraps -the Shoes Smart Casual 118 119 with Buckles 166 The OtherWord forWeatherproof 167 Leather Does not always Mean Leather 168 169 The Sports Jacket 120 121 | | The Center ofthe Shoe World 170 171 Needle and Thread 122 123 | | The Shoemaker's Tools 172 173 TVeed Plus 124 125 | Two TweedJacke|ts 126 127 Howa Shoe Takes Shape 174-177 | The OtherWord for Cordovan 178 179 Today's SportsJacket 128 | Suede Shoes 180 181 An Eye for Detail 128 129 | | American Classics-Saddle Shoes 182 Fabrics for Ti-ousers to Go suppers 183 with the Sports Jacket 130 131 | Shoes with Knobs on 184 185 The GrayEminence 132 133 | | Raincoats for Shoes 185 Khaki Couture 134 Socks - Getting the CombinationRight 186 187 Shorts 135 | Shoes and the Rest 188 189 The Right Sort ofJeans 136 137 I | The Cut 138 139 | HowTrousers Got their Cuffs 139 & Overcoats Jackets 190 191 Accessories 218 219 Overcoat Culture 192 193 Those Uttle differences 220 221 | | Essential Overcoats 194-197 The Everyday Ballast 222 223 | For the Officerin the Gentleman 198 One has it-butwhere? 224 225 | The Duffel Coat 199 What does it tell us? 226 227 | The Barbour Phenomenon 200 The best watches in the world 228 229 | The story ofthe WaxedJacket 201 AllAbout the Watch 230 231 | The Barbourin Detail 202 203 Less is More 232 233 | | The Top Six 203 Preface to Tobacco 234 235 | Short is AU Right 204 205 The Cigarette 236 237 | | The Pipe 238 239 | Classic Pipe Squad 240 241 | The Hat 206 207 ^^^ Manufacture 241 I The Cigar 242 243 | The Hat Past and Present 208 209 The Sizes 244 | 245 The Bowler 210 |211 | The Barin the Pocket 246 | 247 Courage to WearHats 212 213 The CuffLink 248 | 249 Who Wears Hats? 214 215| Our Daily Companion 250 | 251 The Panama 216 1217| The Original 252 | 253 Traveling in Style 254 255 | Forthe ShortTrip 256 257 | The Knackwith the Jacket 258 The Right Wayto Pack a Suitcase 259 TheWalking Cane 260 The Lap Robe 261 No Fear ofRain 262 263 | The OtherWord in UmbreUas 264 265 | Glasses 266 267 | Not only when the Sun Shines 268 269 | The Handkerchief 270 271 | From Hand to Breast Pocket 272 273 | The Right Combination 274 275 | The Glove 276 277 | ScarfRefinement 278 279 I Knitwear 280 281 Formal Dress 320 321 In the Beginning Was the Sweater 282 283 White orblack? 322 323 | | From Sheep to Wool 284 285 The Tuxedo - and What Goes With It 324 325 | Classic Knitwear 286 287 Black & White 325 | Between England and France 288 White Tie 326 327 | The Guernsey in Detail 289 AJacket for Smoking 328 From Fine to Chunky Knit 290 291 Available to Rent... 328 | Correct Coordination 292 293 The Right Shoes 329 | For Cold Winter Days 294 295 Morning Dress 330 331 | | The Other Craze 296 297 I Home Comfort 332 333 Sporting Life 298 299 | A Hint ofDecadence 334 335 | Why Sport? 300 301 Breakfast with Style 336 337 | | Hunting, Riding, Fishing... 302 303 A Souvenir from the Colonies 338 339 | Shooting-the Outfit 304 305 Home Comfort 340 341 | I The Real Thing 306 307 | The pocketknife 307 Riding- the Outfit 308 309 Appendix 342 343 | Spectating in Style 310 311 | Fishing- the Outfit 312 313 | Hole in One 314 315 Looking afteryourWardrobe 344-347 | The Crocodile 316 317 The Suit 344 | The Other Polo Shirt 317 The Necktie 346 Water Sports - the Outfit 318 319 Shoes 346 | 347 | Shoe Repair 347 Glossary 348-352 Bibliography-a Selection 353 Acknowledgments 353 Index 354-357 Picture Credits 360