GEM US_001_Half_Title_Gem.indd 1 19/05/2016 14:08 GEM US_002-003_Tit le_Page_Gem.indd 2 19/05/2016 14:08 GEM THE DEFINITIVE VISUAL GUIDE US_002-003_Title_Page_Gem.indd 3 19/05/2016 14:08 DK LONDON Senior Editor Anna Fischel Senior Art Editors Jane Ewart, Gadi Farfour Project Editor Hugo Wilkinson Designers Helen Spencer, Stephen Bere, Katie Cavanagh, Renata Latipova, Clare Joyce Photographer Ruth Jenkinson US Senior Editor Shannon Beatty US Editor Jane Perlmutter Picture Research Sarah Smithies, Sarah Hopper DK Picture Library Martin Copeland Jacket Designer Mark Cavanagh Jacket Editor Claire Gell Jacket Design Development Sophia M.T.T. Producer Mandy Inness Pre-production Producer Andy Hilliard Managing Editor Gareth Jones Senior Managing Art Editor Lee Griffths Art Director Karen Self Associate Publishing Director Liz Wheeler Publishing Director Jonathan Metcalf Contents DK INDIA Senior Managing Art Editor Arunesh Talapatra Foreword by Aja Raden 8 Senior Art Editor Chhaya Sajwan Art Editors Priyansha Tuli, Roshni Kapur, Sudakshina Basu Production Manager Pankaj Sharma Pre-production Manager Balwant Singh Senior DTP Designer Neeraj Bhatia DTP Designers Jaypal Chauhan, Nityanand Kumar Picture Research Manager Taiyaba Khaton INTRODUCTION 10 Picture Researcher Sakshi Saluja Treasures of the Earth 12 Established in 1846, the Smithsonian—the world’s largest museum and research What is a mineral? 14 complex—includes 19 museums and galleries and the National Zoological Park. The total number of artifacts, works of art, and specimens in the Smithsonian’s colections is estimated at 138 milion, Physical properties 16 much of which is contained in the National Museum of Natural History, which holds more than 126 milion specimens and objects. The Smithsonian is a renowned research center, dedicated to Crystal systems and habits 18 public education, national service, and scholarship in the arts, sciences, and history. SMITHSONIAN CURATOR What is a gem? 20 Dr. Jeffrey E. Post, Chairman, Department of Mineral Sciences and Curator, National Gem and Mineral Colection. National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Visual properties 22 SMITHSONIAN ENTERPRISES Where do gems come from? 24 Product Development Manager Kealy E. Gordon Licensing Manager Elen Nanney Grading and evaluation 26 Vice President, Education and Consumer Products Brigid Ferraro Gem cuts 28 Senior Vice President, Education and Consumer Products Carol LeBlanc The value of a gem 30 President Chris Liedel First American Edition, 2016 What is a jewel? 32 Published in the United States by DK Publishing 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Copyright © 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited DK, a Division of Penguin Random House LLC Foreword copyright @ 2016 Aja Raden NATIVE ELEMENTS 34 16 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 001–282973–Oct/2016 Al rights reserved Gold 36 Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be Crown of Charlemagne 40 reproduced, stored in, or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written Silver 42 permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Platinum 44 A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Marie Antoinette’s diamond earrings 46 ISBN 978-1-4654-5356-3 Copper 48 DK books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for sales promotions, premiums, fund-raising, or educational use. For details, contact: DK Publishing Special Markets, Artemision Bronze 50 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 or GEMSTONES 64 Azurite 106 Pyrite 66 Malachite 107 Sphalerite 67 Queen Desideria's malachite parure 108 Stuart Sapphire 68 Turquoise 110 Sapphire 70 Marie-Louise’s diadem 112 Danish ruby parure 74 Gems for anniversaries 114 Ruby 76 Brazilianite 116 Timur Ruby 78 Amblygonite 117 Spinel 80 Apatite 118 Catherine the Great's spinel 82 Lazulite 119 Chrysoberyl 84 Baryte 120 Hematite 86 Celestine 121 Taaffeite 87 Alabaster 122 Cassiterite 88 Gypsum 123 Cuprite 89 Sacred stones 124 Maharaja’s Patiala necklace 90 Scheelite 126 Indian jewels 92 Howlite 127 Rutile 94 Queen Elizabeth’s pelican brooch 128 Diaspore 95 Mysticism and medicine 130 Fluorite 96 Quartz 132 Calcite 98 Treasure chambers of Augustus II 140 Aragonite 99 Surface luster 142 Rhodochrosite 100 St. George statuette 144 Cerussite 101 Chalcedony 146 Byzantine jewels 102 Frederick the Great’s snuffbox 150 Variscite 104 Agate 152 Smithsonite 105 Onyx 154 US_004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 5 07/06/2016 17:38 Pattern, texture, and inclusions 206 Gold and power 156 Hiddenite 208 Opal 158 Kunzite 209 Halley’s Comet opal 162 Tutti Frutti necklace 210 Moonstone 164 Jade 212 Shimmering color 166 Chinese birdcage 214 Sunstone 168 Rhodonite 216 Labradorite 169 Pectolite 217 Orthoclase 170 Designers' heyday 218 Microcline 171 Dioptase 220 Albite 172 Sugilite 221 Bytownite 173 Iolite 222 Lapis lazuli 174 Benitoite 223 Jewels of ancient Egypt 178 Duchess of Windsor’s Cartier famingo brooch 224 Sodalite 180 Tourmaline 226 Haüyne 181 Crown of the Andes 230 Kiani Crown 182 Emerald 232 Scapolite 184 Topkapi emerald dagger 234 Pollucite 185 Fluorescent minerals 186 Beryl 236 Indian jewels 188 Dom Pedro Aquamarine 242 Serpentine 190 Modern carving and engraving 244 Soapstone 191 Danburite 246 Pezzottaite 192 Axinite 247 Sepiolite 193 Jewelry shopping 248 Ludwig II’s pocket watch 194 Vesuvianite 250 Chrysocolla 196 Epidote 251 Petalite 197 Kornerupine 252 Prehnite 198 Zoisite 253 Phosphophyllite 199 Peridot 254 The gem industry 200 Shwedagon pagoda 256 Enstatite 202 Garnet 258 Diopside 203 Staffordshire hoard 264 Hypersthene 204 Fire and brilliance 266 Bronzite 205 Zircon 268 US_004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 6 07/06/2016 17:38 Black Orlov diamond 270 Topaz 272 ROCK GEMS AND ROCKS 320 Andalusite 274 Titanite 275 Moldavite 322 Sillimanite 276 Obsidian 323 Dumortierite 277 Limestone 324 Fabergé Easter eggs 278 Sandstone 325 Kyanite 280 Spanish Alhambra 326 Staurolite 281 Marble 328 Phenakite 282 Granite 329 Euclase 283 Michelangelo’s David 330 Napoleon diamond necklace 284 Record breakers 332 Lucky birthstones 286 Cartier watch 334 Mask of Agamemnon 288 Color guide 338 ORGANIC GEMS 290 Mineral and rock directory 348 Glossary 428 Pearl 292 Index 432 La Peregrina 296 Acknowledgments 438 Shell 298 Mother-of-pearl 299 Nautilus cup 300 High society 302 Mother-of-pearl coyote 304 Jet 306 Copal 308 Anthracite 309 Amber 310 Russian Amber Room 312 Coral 314 Diana with stag centerpiece 316 Peanut wood 318 Ammolite 319 US_004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 7 07/06/2016 17:38 Foreword by Aja Raden hether they’re stories about kings and queens, which we judge monetary value. But what makes adventurers, wars, empires, or curses, the best gemstones so valuable, so powerful? They are, W stories are always about treasure. From sunken after all, only stones… pirate ships to wicked diamonds to cities of gold, its sinister sparkle has a singular ability to bring out the very best and And yet we’ve adored them and been adorned with them, the very worst in each of us. History, mythology, or pure imbued them with meaning and magic. Gems have been fantasy, the best stories all have that one thing in common: considered both poisons and medicines (and some actually they all have something glittering at their heart. are), barometers of everything from truth to danger. We’ve used them as signifers of virtue, nobility, and even divinity. But this book is not a story. A story has a beginning, a Conversely, they’ve often represented tyranny, greed, middle, and an end. This book is a map, a codex, a tool to and death. Occasionally their power even strays from the help you understand all of those other stories. Throughout symbolic to the literal, resulting in cults, relics, and legends these pages you’ll be introduced to hundreds of individual of cursed gems. Wars have been fought, industries have stones in their many forms; you’ll learn about their singular been created, and empires have risen and fallen, all qualities and unique beauties, and a little of the history that in pursuit of that which is beautiful, valuable, and rare. has defned them. You’ll read about their objective qualities; their color, their clarity, their structural makeup, the geology Surely to desire, to covet, is human. As is the tendency of how they’re formed, and how they’re found. The hard to worship, to adorn, one might even say to treasure. science; the facts. But what catches the eye? What draws us to anything? A bright color? A fash of light? What is it about gems But the story of stones isn’t wholly about facts. The that so uniquely compels and possesses us? How have story of stones is about beauty and desire, status these glittering bits of the world had such power over and symbolism. It’s also about value, which is never our hearts and our minds throughout history? It’s entirely objective or tangible. Gems were one of the a deceptively simple question, but one that proves frst currencies, and to this day are the marker by tricky to answer. US_008-009_Foreword.indd 8 13/06/2016 11:01