Gathering Abundance: An Exploration of Urban Foraging Practices in Toronto By Janina Kowalski Supervised by Dr. Jennifer Foster Submitted on November 28th, 2014 A Major Paper submitted to the Faculty of Environmental Studies in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master in Environmental Studies York University, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Signature of Student: Signature of Supervisor: i Abstract This paper explores different urban foraging practices within Toronto aiming to understand the motivations for foraging within an urban centre, how this is enacted, and how the context of Toronto affects this practice. As an emerging field of study, there are few articles directly about urban foraging, but a wide body of literature which informs the topic. Seventeen semi-structured interviews were conducted, two with land managers, three with land managers/foragers, and twelve with foragers while walking through greenspaces in Toronto. The themes that emerged from the interviews were those of forager identity, environmental stewardship, (re)connection from nature, and private property, laws and transgression. Through foraging practices in the city people are able to interact with public greenspaces, and become participants within ecological and social communities. Eating weedy species and distinctions between native and introduced species heavily influence foraging practice. The embodied process of this work through harvesting and utilizing the plant materials creates a strong sense of connection to local seasonal cycles and food systems. Decisions to transgress bylaws are grounded in different notions of the role of nature and public spaces in the city. There is the potential for foraging practices to be part of sustainable and dynamic urban ecologies. ii Foreword The study of urban foraging intersects with my Area of Concentration, Urban Ecologies, Ethnobotany, and Environmental Justice, as outlined in my Plan of Study. Urban ecology focuses upon the dynamics between the human and non-human in urban centres, making links between the ways that the biological, social and economic environments of urban centres influence each other and are co-created. Urban foraging practices are embedded within social and cultural histories, and require direct assessment and interaction with surrounding flora. Ethnobotany is the study of the relationships between humans and plants, and their effect and role within culture. Large amounts of ecological knowledge and local awareness are required for the successful gathering and preparation of uncultivated plants. Both wild and domesticated plants can be included. Environmental justice analyzes the access and distribution of environmental resources, and the differential impacts on society. This can occur at a variety of scales from the international to the body. Access to local public greenspaces with a variety of plant species is not distributed evenly across the city, therefore excluding some segments of the population and allowing differential opportunities to benefit from wild plants. Completing a Major Research Paper about urban foraging practices in Toronto has allowed me to integrate and deepen my understanding of these three Areas of Concentration through reading and research, the utilization of relevant frameworks, and the participation within plant related events. iii Acknowledgements I thank my supervisor, Jennifer Foster, for her support and encouragement throughout the entirety of my Major Research Paper, as well as her thorough reading and thoughtful comments on my manuscript. I also thank my advisor, Ellie Perkins, for helping me navigate the twists and turns of the Masters of Environmental Studies program. I give my deepest thanks to all of the interviewees who agreed to speak with me about their foraging practices, giving their invaluable insights and perspectives. I am truly honored and awed with how generous people can be. I would also like to thank my mother, Valerie Zawilski, and father, Richard Kowalski, for their patience and understanding, especially the day I made dandelion pesto for the first time. To all my friends, family, colleagues, and members of the Wild Foragers Society, thank you for being continuing sources of inspiration. To everyone at The Villa, thank you for letting me permanently steal a piece of the kitchen table to work on, and to Liz Coderre, for asking me questions about what I was writing. Finally, I would also like to thank Alex Kent for his steadfast support, thought-provoking conversations, and joie de vive, all which reminded me to never give up. iv Table of Contents Prologue 1 Chapter 1: Urban Forest Justice 3 Chapter 2: Literature Review 5 Urban Foraging 6 Non-Timber Forest Products 11 Spontaneous Vegetation, Weed Ecologies and Subsistence 16 Parks and Urban Greenspace 18 Urban Ethnobotanies 21 Popular Literature/Foraging Guides 23 Chapter 3: Study Area and Methodology 26 Study Area 26 Methodology 27 Chapter 4: Research Findings 29 Forager Identity 29 Environmental Stewardship 37 (Re)connection to Nature and Alternative Knowledges 42 Private Property, Laws and Transgression 46 Chapter 5: Discussion 50 Chapter 6: Conclusion 67 Bibliography 71 v List of Appendices Appendix A- Sample Request for Participation 82 Appendix B- Interview Questions 83 Appendix C- A Table of Interviews 84 Appendix D- Plants Harvested in Toronto 85 List of Figures Figure 1- Linden Tree (Tilia europea) 2 Figure 2- Wild River Grape (Vitis riparia) 8 Figure 3- Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) 17 Figure 4- Saskatoon Berry (Amelanchier Canadensis) 30 Figure 5- Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) 40 Figure 6- High Park Sign 47 Figure 7- Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale) 55 Figure 8- Handmade Sign 66 vi Prologue The genesis of my research was my desire to learn about the plants that lived just outside my doorstep in parks, gardens, on lawns and boulevards all around Toronto. To learn know more about the non-human world around me, I looked for people who would be able to help answer the multitude of questions that I harboured. The people I had the pleasure to speak with were plant walk leaders, environmental educators, colleagues and friends. In the process, I became acquainted with the concept of foraging for uncultivated plant materials. The medicinal qualities of plants was not a new concept to me, as I had previous experience making basic medicinal teas out of dried herbs. What struck me, however, was the fact that some of these plants were growing within downtown Toronto, just a hand’s reach away. I had walked by them many times and never noticed them. A whole new world of possibilities opened up, and I was able to re- imagine Toronto as a place of production, and a new way that I could actively participate with both the city and its green spaces. I was beginning to look for and see plantain (Plantago major) and burdock (Arctium lappa) in every sidewalk, and by every roadside. Similarly, I began to see foragers all around me. Suddenly, the benign act of family berry picking gained new importance, and stories of people and their relationships with wild plants started to emerge. Reflecting upon my own family’s relationship with plants, I realized that my grandfather was a forager. In the little cabin he built, I remember seeing strings of dried mushrooms hanging in the corner. I was emphatically warned not to eat them, but that was never an issue because their faded, twisted flesh seemed so far removed from what I thought of as food. Now chefs and foodies clamour to use “wild” ingredients, and chaga mushrooms (Inonotus obliquus) are touted as a superfood to treat cancer patients. Recently Toronto Public Health issued a warning against eating wild mushrooms because of a case of poisoning, and I shared a conversation with a stranger on the subway based on the edible plant guide they were reading. The interest of wild foraged food and 1 medicines is growing throughout Toronto and internationally, no longer solely the realm of health enthusiasts and environmentalists. Figure 1- Linden (Tilia europea) leaves and flowers from the author’s family home. They are very fragrant and make an excellent tea. 2 Chapter 1: Urban Forest Justice Foraging, more specifically, is the practice of harvesting non-cultivated plants for food, medicine, floral and greenery, craft products or other purposes, for personal use or sale (Emery et al 2006). The terms forager, harvester, and gatherer are used interchangeably within the research to describe the people who collect wild plant materials. The term “plant” is used preferentially within this research to generally refer to herbaceous plants and trees, as a way to circumvent conceptualizations of plants solely as commercial products (Robbins 2008). Within an urban context, foraging frequently occurs in parks, along trails and waterways but can also include gathering from lawns and more highly urbanized spaces (McLain et al 2014). Through the harvesting of plants for personal use, people are able to be more directly connected to sources of local food and medicine. In addition, foraging is an activity which can build community and intergenerational bonds, inspire exercise, serve as a supplemental source of income, and offer a way for people to connect to nature (Poe et al 2013). The harvesting of plants is directly connected with issues of conservation and sustainability, such as ensuring enough of the plant community survives for other organisms, and for future harvests. Urban foraging practices can also cross the boundaries of private property and occur counter to current forest and land management regimes (Ginger at al 2012). Examining the non-human world within urban landscapes can be accomplished through evaluating the practices of urban foragers in public green spaces and marginal urban habitat. Understanding who is foraging, how they are doing it, and their motivations will lead to a deeper understanding of the way that urban populations use green spaces. This can potentially serve as insight for future environmental planning and urban forest management by organizations such as the Toronto Region Conservation Authority, and the Toronto Department of Parks, 3 Forestry and Recreation. Uncovering why people participate in foraging can also reveal sites of resistance to industrialized food and/or medical pathways. The role that the transmission of knowledge plays can reveal different power dynamics, and the access and opportunities that people in Toronto have to benefit from their local resources. Currently the harvesting of many Non-Timber Forest Products (NTFPs) is not monitored within Ontario (Ontario Ministry of Resources 2011, Hillyer and Atkins 2004). However, within Toronto, there is Municipal by-law 608-6B which restricts the removal of vegetation from park space, thus negating gathering practices. Other municipal by-laws which affect urban harvesting include those governing the removal of apple and crab apple trees located on city roads (City of Toronto 2009). This research will explore the concept of “urban forest justice” and how it applies to foraging practices within Toronto. Poe et al. (2013) develop the concept of an “urban forest justice” framework that is defined as, “…recogniz[ing] the rights of urban people to control their own culturally appropriate food and health systems based in cultures of gathering wild edible and medicinal plants and fungi.” (Poe et al. 2013). The “urban forest justice” framework incorporates political ecology, food justice and medicinal justice literatures, and extends concepts of forest justice into a post-industrial urban context. Political ecology evaluates the relationship between politics, economy and nature, and how certain power relations are embedded within the management of nature (Robbins 2008). By combining these areas of study, focus is placed upon how urban forests participate in the shaping of identities and social relations, the access to and benefits from forest resources, and the role of foragers in forest management (Poe et al. 2013). The practice of foraging for wild products does not appear to occur only within one particular demographic, as evinced from the studies by Emery et al (2002), Emery et al (2006), Robbins (2008), Poe et al (2013). Assuming that conditions are similar within Toronto, 4