Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 FUNDAMENTALS OF AROMATHERAPY AROMATHERAPY CERTIFICATION LEVEL 1 Lesson 2 Lesson: Essential Oils and Carrier Oils Essential Oil Profile: Bergamot Additional Topic: Buying and Storing Essential Oils and Carrier Oils Author: Donna Rona, ND, DHM, DCCN Presented by www.OnlineCE.com a division of OnlineContinuingEd, LLC Page 1 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 Essential Oils and Carrier Oils Essential Oils Essential oils are poetically referred to as the essence or spirit of the plant. In fact, they are volatile, complex organic compounds produced by plants as secondary metabolites. There are over 3000 known essential oils with approximately 300 essential oils in commercial production today, however aromatherapy commonly uses between 50 and 100. Almost all of the commercial production is for the food, pharmaceutical and perfume industries. Essential oils may be liquid, semi-solid, or solid, but most are liquid at room temperature. They dissolve in alcohol, fats, and other oils, but not in water. They are not oily to the touch, and evaporate on exposure to air. In their purest form, they leave no residue when they evaporate. They are also flammable. Used in Contains Aromatherapy Synthetics Essential Oil Yes No Fragrance Oil No Yes Perfume Oil No Yes Perfume oils, also known as fragrance oils or "fragrances" are not the same as essential oils. These oils contain synthetic oils and/or chemicals from processing, and are not usable as therapeutic essential oils. Some are entirely synthetic and have absolutely no therapeutic value. The word perfume comes from the Latin per (through) andfumum (smoke). This gives us a clear picture of incense, which is the earliest known usage of essential oils as well as other plant products. The early scents were derived by various means. Today the word perfume implies one of more essential oils (natural or synthetic) dissolved in a solvent (usually alcohol) in a 25% solution [4 parts alcohol to one part essential oil]. Eau de toilette contains the same elements in a 5 percent ratio, and cologne is usually around three percent. These ratios are not fixed and will vary greatly. One of the key properties of essential oils is their extreme volatility - which means that their molecules become vapor (become airborne) very easily. They are so volatile that the current word 'essential' oil comes from the Latin word essentia meaning liquid that becomes a gaseous essence. The old apothecaries used the word 'spirits' . These molecules produce aroma or odor impressions on our sense of smell. The volatility of essential oils comes in part from their size - they are very small. This fact also facilitates their therapeutic usefulness - since the tiny molecules pass easily through the nasal membranes, lung membranes, and skin. These chemical components are extremely complex. While the average essential oil contains over 100 known chemical compounds, some contain over 400. Once inhaled, they trigger neurochemical reactions in the nasal Page 2 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 cavity, where the signals are translated into emotional and physical information. If they travel to the lungs, they are absorbed into the blood stream and delivered throughout the body. Once in contact with the skin, they have immediate localized action, and disperse within minutes throughout the body. Plants produce these specialized chemicals for two main purposes: reproduction and protection. Protection : Some the essential oils are contained in the leaves and twigs. They make the leaves and stems unappetizing, even poisonous, to animals who would otherwise strip the plants of photosynthetic (food producing) or supportive (stem) surfaces. They may also inhibit the growth of neighboring plants when they are carried into the surrounding soil by water droplets. Some oils are produced to defend the plant against fungal attack. Reproduction: Essential oils that are 'attractants' are part of the plant's pollination and seed dispersal mechanisms. The fragrance is specifically keyed to attract the correct animal. Flowers that need to attract bees and butterflies for pollination will have one particular character of sent, usually sweet and delicate. Flowers to attract bats produce a more musky or rotting fruit odor. Flowers that need to attract flies produce a putrid odor. Fruits that require animals to eat them in order to have the seeds widely dispersed also produce essential oils that are keyed to attract the animals that will accomplish the job. Therapeutic essential oils are obtained from: Flowers - carnation, marigold, mimosa, jasmine, orange blossom, rose, violet, ylang ylang Dried flower buds — clove Leaves - eucalyptus, pettigrain, basil, clary sage, rosemary, peppermint Roots and rhizomes - ginger, angelica, sassafras, vetivert, calamus Bulbs – garlic, narcissus, onion Fruits - bergamot, lemon, orange Seeds - celery, bitter almond, anise, fennel, nutmeg Bark — cinnamon Gum - frankincense Grasses - lemongrass, palmarosa Flowers and leaves - lavender, rosemary, peppermint Leaves and stems — niaouli, tea tree, geranium, patchouli, petitgrain, verbena, myrtle Wood —sandalwood, rosewood, cederwood, cabreuva Nuts and berries -juniper, cypress, nutmeg Some plants yield more than one essential oil. For example the orange yields three essential oils: Neroli from the blossoms, Petitgrain from the leaves and Orange from the fruit. Plants also produce related chemicals that are not true essential oils. These include resins, oleo-resins and balsams. These are products which naturally exude from plants and trees which act as natural protection against attack from insects or pests. Page 3 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 Four animal substances are frequently associated with essential oils due to their history as part of the perfume industry. While not essential oils, you should be familiar with their origin and use. They have primarily been used as fixatives - since they have high molecular weight, which prevents loss of the molecules to the air. Thus extending the 'life' of the essential oils with which they are mixed. Animal Derived Oils Ambergris - Sperm whales feed on cuttle fish (a squid like animal with a sharp homy beak and one large skeletal type structure called the cuttlebone (used in bird cages to wear down the beaks of birds). These beaks and cuttlebones irritate the lining of the whale's digestive tract and the whale secretes a grayish-white fatty material to protect itself, called ambergris. Since it is fatty material, when expelled, this substance floats. Arab seamen started collecting these 'balls' and it was soon found to have fixative qualities - able to delay the rate of volatility of other oils when added to the mixture. Today a synthetic version is used in the perfume industry. Castoreum or castor - Castoreum is an essence extracted from abdominal sacs in male and female Russian and Canadian beavers. Beavers use it to protect their coats. In extreme dilutions, it may be used as a scenting agent, but it is usually used as a fixative. Civit - Civit is an essence extracted from the male and female East African cat Viverra civetta. It has a strong (most say revolting) faecal odor but when blended is an exceptionally strong fixative Musk- Musk comes from the male Chinese musk deer (Moschus mochiferus). These small deer are killed to remove the sac, which is dried and sold for the perfume industry. Methods of Extraction/Production of Essential Oils Distillation - In this process, low heat process vaporizes the essential oil from the plant tissue, which is then carried by steam into a collector and condensed by cooling. Steam and water must readily penetrate the plant parts. Flowers and leaves do not need any special treatment, but woody materials are generally ground, and seeds are usually cracked or crushed. The process of distillation may be accomplished in two methods. 1. Steam distillation passes steam through the plant material - evaporating the oils. The steam is collected and passed through a coil (usually cooled by running water). The steam condenses and the essential oil rises to the top. The remaining water contains traces of the essential oil molecules and may produce a useful byproduct now called a hydrosol. Page 4 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 2. In water distillation, the plant material is covered with water and brought to a boil. This technique is used to protect oils that are more heat sensitive, such as rose. An example of the remaining water providing an important product is in the water distillation process of rose petals, which rose water as a secondary product. It must be noted here that there are many products which may use the term "rose water". Look on the shelf at a shop and you may find a product called Rose Water with ingredients listed as: aqueous extract of rose, methyl paraben, carmine, and rose essence concentrate. This is NOT the secondary product of rose petal distillation, and is not part of aromatherapy. The selection of the form of distillation requires knowledge of the character of the essential oil components. For example, oils with high percentage of esters (such as Lavender) cannot take the long contact with the water, and are best suited to steam distillation. The process of distillation is relatively simple in concept, but when it comes to essential oils, the cost can vary widely - depending on the unique properties of each plant part being processed, their specific needs (such as steam temperature), and the amount of essential oils contained within that plant part. It takes 4,000 pounds of rose petals to produce one pound of rose essential oil. It takes 6,000 pounds of jasmine pedals to produce one pound of jasmine essential oil. In addition, Jasmine can only be picked 3 months out of the year, and must be picked between 2 a.m. and 5 a.m. Expression - Expression is used to obtain essential oils from citrus fruits such as orange, lemon, or bergamot. These fruits have oil glands on their surface. If you have ever peeled an orange, you have likely seen a spray released from the skin. Oils are pressed out of the peel of almost ripe fruit for aromatherapy work [Note: the same fruit oils are distilled from the peel for use in the flavoring and fragrance industry.] Since the pressing method works without heat, the aroma and chemical composition of the essential oil will be almost identical to the oils contained in the skin of the fruit. Expressed essential oils will often contain non-volatile substances such as waxes. Extraction - treating with solvents selected to dissolve the oils from the plant parts. Enfleurage is the oldest known method of extracting essential oils. The selected plant part (example: flower petals) is soaked in fat (lard or vegetable oil) and exposed to the sun for several weeks in a glass jar or between sheets of glass. The fat is strained and fresh materials added until a concentration of essential oils is achieved. The resulting fat is known as pomade. Egyptian paintings depict ladies with cones of scented fat on their heads. The heat of the day would melt the fat and lavish their heads and bodies with the scent. Maceration (used for acacia, rose, violet and neroli) also uses oils or lard. The fat is placed in enameled iron pots and heated to roughly 40 degrees Celsius. The flowers are added to the warm fat (usually in large linen bags - looking like oversized tea bags) and the mix is stirred for one or two days. The flowers are removed and fresh flowers added until the fat is saturated. This again produces a pomade. The essential oil is then extracted using alcohol to separate the essential oils from the fats. The alcohol is then removed by low temperature distillation. Another form of solvent extraction is the use of hydrocarbon solvents such as petroleum Page 5 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 or hexane. These solvents dissolve the aromatic material and the remaining residue is known as a concrete (and is usually sold in solid form). Additional processing with a solvent extracts using ethanol (an alcohol), and the results are sold as absolutes. Carbon Dioxide (CO ) Extraction – 2 Introduced in the 1980's, this extraction takes place at low temperatures. Carbon dioxide gas at very high pressures is used to dissolve the essential oil from plant material. When the pressure is allowed to fall, the oils form a mist and are collected. The equipment is massive and expensive. Oils produced this way will be labeled C0 . 2 Adulteration of Essential Oils Adulteration of essential oils is done for a variety of reasons, but primarily economic. Usually, it is a modification of the processing technique designed to speed the process, obtain the last oils out of plant materials, or stretch the final product. In these cases, it is strictly an economic decision. Adulterated oils may or may not have the therapeutic qualities necessary for use in aromatherapy, and are therefore usually used by the fragrance industry. Be aware that some of the products on store shelves, claiming to be aromatherapy products, are simply scented products. They may be mixed essential oils and synthetics, or simply synthetic products. Adulteration by adding alcohol (common in the perfume industry) extends the essential oil ( alcohol does not change the scent of the oil ). The alcohol mixes with the essential oils but also with water. Adding water reduces the price per gallon - and also is desirable in the perfume industry since it prolongs the persistence of the perfume on the skin. Again, this form of adulteration usually makes the product unusable for aromatherapy. Rectified essential oils are processed oils where a filtering process is used to remove traces of residue. It may be accomplished by physical filtration, or by secondary distillation. It is especially valuable when pesticides or herbicides are present (or suspected). It is also used to describe oils that have had specific organic compounds removed by chemical methods. This method is used for aromatherapy oils, but will be carefully labeled as such. The most frequently seen essential oil that is rectified for a purpose is Bergamot, where chemicals that produce photosensitivity are removed. Analysis There are several testing methods employed to establish identity, origin, purity, and consistency in essential oils. The two most commonly used methods of analysis are gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy. Both methods are routinely used by high quality producers of essential oils. However, chromatography methods are completely dependent on the individual machines, flow rates, temperatures, etc. This means the results cannot be compared from one manufacturer to another. The chromatographic method separates the components of an essential oil and produces a printout with a series of peaks. This printout does not identify the elements that produce the peaks. In order to do that, the machine uses a set of known 'standards'. Claims of purity and quality have Page 6 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 led to a virtually meaningless set of claims on various labels. This subject is covered in more depth in the Level 2 course. Research and references When researching essential oils it is important to carefully look at the material the author has used as reference. Frequently the inappropriate combination of herbal lore and essential oils information is found within a single source. Herbal information concerning source materials used to produce essential oils must be clearly identified as separate from the essential oil data. Herbal and essential oil descriptions that blur the line between the two produces conflicting information and will cause great confusion. Take the example of the diuretic affect of fennel and juniper. Traditional water or alcohol extracts (tinctures) of these herbs, taken internally, have been shown to stimulate and irritate the kidney thus causing the release of more urine. There are no studies that indicate the diluted essential oils applied to the skin will have any diuretic action. However it is common to find this effect listed in the aromatherapy reference books. The herbs are usually whole plant, or whole parts (whole leaves, roots, etc.). Essential oils are very highly concentrated extracts from very specific glandular cells, or reservoirs contained within plants. Herbal knowledge has much to teach us, but it must not be confused with essential oil information. Over reliance on phytochemical information has caused many unsubstantiated claims concerning uses and hazards of certain essential oils. It is easy to say that since linalool is a known sedative, that essential oils containing linalool (Lavender for example) are sedative. While this may hold true for one (or twelve) essential oils containing linalool, there are many others which are not sedatives. Single chemical constituents may lead to grouping or understanding groups of essential oils that may have similar affects. Such groupings may be used as a guide for studying, sorting and perhaps point the way to the selection of appropriate essential oils for a given condition. It is inappropriate however to attribute the entire effect of any essential oil on one single chemical component. They are far too complex. Many essential oils contain large amounts of unidentified chemicals, and between 100 and 400 known chemicals, therefore the synergistic affects are not taken into account when making decisions based on single chemical constituents. There are two exceptions to this statement: Wintergreen can contain up to 99 percent methyl salicylate (potentially very hazardous) Mustard may contain up to 95 percent allyl isothiocyanate (potentially very hazardous) The greatest expertise in the production and chemistry of essential oils currently rests in the flavor, fragrance, and cosmetics industries. In these industries trade secrets are held closely. Most of the research that these industries have invested in is unavailable to the aromatherapy practitioners. Their research and practical knowledge will eventually add to the science of aromatherapy. It is also hoped that their experience will also add to the art of aromatherapy. Natural essential oils may have great variation in their chemical composition and yet there may be very little difference in their fragrance. This is due to the fragrance of an Page 7 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 essential oil being caused by minute traces of odiferous chemicals. The odiferous chemical may not to be a major component of the essential oil by composition. The food and flavor industries are well aware of this and most use fractions containing only the most potent fragrance or flavor molecules. These molecules may represent as little as 0.5 percent of the whole oil. It is the trace chemicals which frequently contain the most active fragrance and flavor molecules. It is a fair assumption that many highly active therapeutic substances also occur only in minute or trace amounts. While the fragrance of many essential oils may be synthetically reproduced, the synthetic product does not contain the hundreds of trace chemicals which are part of the naturally occurring essential oil. Synthetic oils are never used in aromatherapy. Poor or prolonged storage of essential oils causes degradation. This degradation may cause lessening of the sensible aroma. However, it is more likely to cause reduction or elimination of the therapeutic properties of the oil. At worst it can create more hazardous compounds (example: terpene degradation may lead to the oil being potentially more skin sensitizing). Most degradation is caused by oxidation - atmospheric oxygen combining with the oils' chemical compounds, creating new compounds. Storage containers with tight fitting lids, and a small volume of air is important (never leave a very small amount of oil in a large bottle - transfer it to a smaller bottle). Containers made of plastic may experience chemical interaction between the plastic material and the essential oil. Glass is the preferred storage medium for essential oils. Heat and light also cause the chemical compounds to undergo degradation. Storing oils in dark glass bottles in a cool environment will provide the best lifetime for the essential oils. Amber and cobalt blue are traditionally used for essential oils. Storing oils in the refrigerator may cause certain oils to become too viscous to pour, but it may significantly extend the life of the essential oil. As a general rule, essential oils should be used within 6 months of purchase — 12 months if refrigerated. Never use an unlabeled container. Hydrosols While not a focus of this course, you should be aware that the use of hydrosols in aromatherapy is growing. A hydrosol is the secondary product of steam distillation of a plant. When the steam is cooled and collected, the essential oil rises to the top and the remaining water contains traces of essential oil and other compounds released by the plant during the distillation process. Hydrosols are not distilled or spring water with essential oils added. Every liter of hydrosol contains between 0.05 and 0.2 ml of dissolved essential oils depending on the plant used and the precise form of distillation. The chemical composition of a hydrosol is different from that of the essential oil because certain compounds are hydrophilic (water loving) and will remain in the condensed water and not rise to the top as do most of the essential oil components. The study, research, and reference books concerning hydrosols are in an exciting phase of development. No doubt, aromatherapy will adopt hydrosols as an important resource. Hydrosols will be covered in more detail in the Level 2 course. Page 8 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 Carrier Oils Essential oils must be diluted prior to use. Carrier oils (also known as Base oils) used to dilute the essential oils are pure nut or seed oils (never petroleum or animal). These oils allow the essential oils to be spread over large areas of skin. The thicker the carrier oil, the less essential oil is absorbed into the skin. The thinner the carrier oil, the more essential oil is absorbed into the skin. Most of the carrier oils have therapeutic properties of their own. For therapeutic uses, the selection of carrier oils will be as important as the selection of the essential oils. Vegetable oils are primarily produced by the plant for nutrient purposes. In aromatherapy, only cold pressed oils are used. These are extracted without the use of heat. While grocery store oils have been used in an emergency situation, they are not ideal for aromatherapy since most have been processed at too high a temperature and some with chemical agents. Certain oils are not used on their own due to thickness or expense, but are added to other carrier oils to take advantage of their own skin nourishing qualities (example: avocado oil). They are still classified as carrier oils. The selection of carrier oil is made based on proposed use of the product (examples: face cream, massage oil), the proposed shelf life of the product (one time use vs. preparing a quantity to use for a week or month), and the specific concerns of the individual (allergies, dry skin, oil skin, etc.). Allergies are the first and most major concern when selecting a carrier oil. Since there is a wide variety of carrier oils from which to select. There is seldom a problem finding alternatives. As with essential oils, it is important to do a patch skin test before applying carrier oils. Other Carriers A carrier's primary purpose is to dilute the essential oil and make the application easier. As such you may use unscented creams, gels, lotions, and shampoo bases. As always, by adding synthetic or 'perfumed' components, you may degrade the therapeutic quality of the final product. Other products are occasionally mixed with vegetable bases, such as honey or beeswax for their healing or textural qualities. Although rare, you will occasionally hear a reference to other carriers for the essential oils. These may include alcohol, water or even vinegar. A further discussion of aromatherapy products and recipes is included in Level 2. Sources: Catty, Suzanne - Hydrosols, The Next Aromatherapy Howard, George - Principles and Practice of Perfumery and Cosmetics Page 9 of 23 Lesson 2 Aromatherapy Certification Level 1 Lawless, Julia – The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils Tisserand and Balacs – Essential Oil Safety – A Guide for Health Care Professionals Von Marksfeld-Fuhrherr, Beverly, West Coast Institute of Aromatherapy, Personal Communications Worwood, The Complete Book of Essential Oils and Aromatherapy Page 10 of 23