FROZEN DESSERTS FROZEN DESSERTS FRANCISCO J. MIGOYA THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA PRESIDENT Dr. Tim Ryan C.M.C. ’77 VICE-PRESIDENT, CONTINUING EDUCATION Mark Erickson C.M.C. ’77 DIRECTOR OF INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY Nathalie Fischer EDITORIAL PROJECT MANAGER Margaret Wheeler ’00 Photography © 2008 Ben Fink Design by Vertigo Design, NYC This book is printed on acid-free paper. ∞ Copyright © 2008 by The Culinary Institute of America. 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TX795.M62 2008 641.8’62—dc22 2007035515 PRINTED IN CHINA 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C Contents Acknowledgments vi Introduction vii A Brief History of Frozen Desserts CHAPTER 1: 1 Ingredients CHAPTER 2: 9 Equipment, Machines, and Tools CHAPTER 3: 31 Dairy-Based Frozen Desserts CHAPTER 4: 51 Non-Dairy Frozen Desserts CHAPTER 5: 69 Aerated Still-Frozen Desserts CHAPTER 6: 87 Finished Items CHAPTER 7: 101 Base Recipes CHAPTER 8: 348 Appendices 410 Average Sugar, Solids, and Acid Content of Fruit 410 T Seasonal Availability of Fruit 412 Glossary 420 Bibliography 423 Internet References 424 Resources 425 Index 426 Acknowledgments There are many people whom I would like to thank for making this book possible. In no particular order, I would like to thank those who assisted with the production and testing of every single recipe in this book, including Justin Kurtz and especially Lauren Genco and Noah Carroll, some of the best people I have worked with. Thank you for all your hard work, not only on this book, but in everything else you do. I want to thank Maggie Wheeler for her invaluable input, attention to detail, and infi nite patience with my constant rewrites and endless questioning, and Patrick Decker, for being instrumental in the photographic production and spending long hours in a very small studio without missing a beat. I would also like to thank Kate McBride for her guidance in making this book the best that it could be. This book’s photographs are by Ben Fink, who understands the importance of speed when photographing anything frozen. Thank you, Ben, for making this book beautiful. I also thank all of those chefs and pastry chefs I have worked for in the past. Donna Meadows, my fi rst pastry chef, taught me how to work fast and trusted me to temper chocolate. Joseba Encabo, professor at The Culinary Institute of America, taught me the importance of mise en place. Rick Lakkonnen, an excellent chef whom I worked for at the River Café, took a chance on me. Patrick Coston is one of the most driven and talented pastry chefs I have ever met; I am eternally grateful for everything he taught me and for getting me my fi rst pastry chef job. Speaking of my fi rst pastry chef job, I thank Scott Bryan, who gave me that fi rst pastry job after a twenty-minute interview. And thanks to Thomas Keller, who taught me the importance of fi nesse and that there is life after the French Laundry. I also thank The Culinary Institute of America for making this project possible, especially Tom Vaccaro, Associate Dean for Curriculum and Instruction of Baking and Pastry Arts, and Dr. Tim Ryan, C.M.C., A.A.C., President. And last, but not least, I thank my wife, Kris, for putting up with many late nights and weekends spent working, my parents for investing wisely in my education, and my daughter, Isabel. vi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Introduction During my years as a pastry cook and eventually a pastry chef, I have focused mainly on plated desserts, many of which have a frozen component included in one way or another, either as the main item or as part of the whole. Frozen desserts play an important role in any highly regarded establishment because they represent a signifi cant percentage of the actual food that the pastry kitchen puts out for paying customers. Knowing how to produce the highest-quality product is crucial to any aspiring or established pastry chef. Many things can go wrong, but having an intimate understanding of the entire production process will result in a fl awless product. Competition these days is fi erce. There are many pastry chefs who understand the importance of every single item on their menu, and these are the pastry chefs who are successful. They are the ones who realize that every day there are more and more sophisticated diners with very high expectations and a low threshold for incompetence. “Good” is just not good enough. I must admit that at the very beginning of my career I appropriated other pastry chefs’ ideas and recipes left and right. I fi gured that if someone published a book, we were all entitled to take from it as we pleased. If you write a book, it is to share with others what you know, plain and simple, but there is only so much of that you can do without thinking about what kind of a pastry chef you are. Are you a taker or an innovator? Do you create or emulate? I think all pastry chefs are a combination of all of the above; they decide to present their own personal take on things out of respect to the author, but mostly out of self-respect. I know this because there is nothing new under the sun. There are innovations, without a doubt, but all of the available ingredients and fl avors have been used before. I am not going to reinvent ice cream, but I can fi gure out a way to make it better, and I can choose what fl avors to make and how I will garnish them. The intention of this book is to give the reader all of the information that he or she needs to produce high-quality frozen desserts for restaurant or hotel production. This information is geared toward small-batch production, not commercial production. That is a whole other story. Small-batch-production frozen desserts are meant to be consumed the day they are churned or frozen, not to sit in a freezer for a long period of time. The difference in quality is signifi cant. Commercially produced items are loaded with chemicals, and while some of the fi nished ice creams and sorbets are decent, they will never match up to the smooth texture, mouth feel, and intensity of fl avor that comes from making smaller batches. The information provided in this book is not limited to recipes. It isn’t enough to just give a recipe. There has to be a complete immersion in the entire frozen dessert production process. Always remember that if anything can go wrong, it will. Prevention is the best solution to any problem that may arise further down the line. This means that by controlling every aspect of production, you diminish the chances for mistakes. Throughout these pages I have included practical advice for real-life situations that will get you to the point where very little is out of your control. It is important to have an intimate knowledge of all the different ingredients that are used in frozen desserts, because you have to understand how to use them appropriately. Otherwise there is a good chance that the product will fail to meet your standards, or, even worse, your customers’ standards. In the chapter on ingredients (see page 9), not only is each one described in detail, but how they interact with each other is explained as well. This will help you understand what has happened if something goes wrong with your recipe. Why is this sorbet rubbery? Why is this ice cream icy? The most common ingredients used in frozen desserts are milk, heavy cream, eggs, granulated sugar, and fruit purées, but there are others that can improve the fi nal texture and mouth feel of an ice cream or sorbet. Stabilizers, emulsifi ers, dextrose, atomized glucose, invert sugar, and powdered milk are a few examples of key ingredients used in modern production that are covered in that chapter. Tools and equipment also play an important role in the process of making frozen desserts. I have written about the two types of ice cream machines that are the most widely used for small-batch production. There are a variety of brands available, but these two types are representative of what is used in the industry. The pros and cons of each one of them are outlined in the equipment chapter (see page 31). This information is meant to help you make an informed decision about the investment you are going to make. Small tools used in producing frozen desserts, like the refractometer, are also explained in detail. Technology has made production much faster, but sometimes it can be diffi cult to understand the ins and outs of complicated tools. This knowledge will be useful in order to get the most and best out of a machine, tool, or other piece of equipment. There are many different types of frozen desserts, but only the most widely used varieties made it into this book. Ice cream, gelato, sherbet, sorbet, granité, ices, and aerated still-frozen desserts such as semifreddo, parfait, bombe, frozen souffl é, and frozen mousse are the categories of desserts that this book covers. The heart of the book explains the defi nition of each of these desserts as well as their differences, how they are made, and how they should be stored during service. Ice creams and sorbets can be made with any given recipe, but there are formulas and new techniques that have improved these products in the past ten years. Traditional methods of production are not obsolete, but newer methods provide another option for pastry chefs. These techniques, both classic and modern, the formulas, and the current trends will be covered over the course of several chapters. As for the fi nished products, I have broken them down into four categories: pre-desserts, plated desserts, entremets, and savory items. Each section features a variety of recipes that includes all the types of frozen desserts covered in this book. Flavors range from the traditional, like plain vanilla ice cream and raspberry sorbet, to the more unusual, like verjus sorbet, balsamic vinegar ice cream, and white chocolate ice cream with caviar. These items are garnished with different components to enhance their fl avor and provide a different texture. Many mistakes were made to obtain these fi nished products, but that is part of the beauty of working with food. You never stop learning. You never stop making mistakes, either. With any luck, this book will keep aspiring pastry chefs and working pastry chefs from making all the mistakes I had to learn from, and perhaps it will help them thrive in their careers sooner rather than later. I hope you fi nd this book useful. INTRODUCTION vii vIII