Ireland 2004 by Suzanne Rowan Kelleher Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers About the Author Suzanne Rowan Kelleheris a freelance travel writer and the former Europe Editor of Travel Holidaymagazine. She has traveled extensively in Ireland, is married to an Irishman, and currently lives in County Dublin. Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. 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All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 0-7645-4216-8 Editor: Amy Lyons Production Editor: Blair J. Pottenger Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Blarney Castle, County Cork Back cover photo: Duke Street, Dublin For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 Contents List of Maps vii What’s New in Ireland 1 1 The Best of Ireland 3 1 The Best Picture- 8 The Best Attractions for the Postcard Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Whole Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 2 The Best Natural Wonders . . . . . .5 9 The Best Active Vacations . . . . .13 3 The Best Castles . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 10 The Best Luxury 4 The Best of Ancient Ireland . . . . .9 Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . .14 5 Remnants of the Golden Age: 11 The Best Moderately Priced The Best Early Christian Ruins . . .10 Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . .15 6 The Best Literary Spots . . . . . . .11 12 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .16 7 The Best Gardens . . . . . . . . . . .12 13 The Best Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 14 The Best Websites . . . . . . . . . .18 2 Planning Your Trip to Ireland 19 1 The Lay of the Land . . . . . . . . .19 11 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .46 2 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .20 Money-Saving Rail & 3 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .23 Bus Passes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 4 Entry Requirements & Customs . . .24 12 From Cottages to Castles: Putting a Roof over 5 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Your Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 6 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Dining Bargains . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Ireland Calendar of Events . . . .28 13 Tips on Restaurants & Pubs . . . .59 7 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .33 14 Tips on Sightseeing & 8 Tips for Travelers with Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Special Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 15 Tracing Your Irish Roots . . . . . . .62 Summer School . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 16 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . .64 9 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 17 Recommended Reading . . . . . .65 10 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .43 Fast Facts: Ireland . . . . . . . . . .66 3 Ireland Outdoors 72 1 Bicycling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 6 Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 2 Walking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Angling for Trout & Salmon . . . .81 Ireland’s National Parks . . . . . .74 7 Kayaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 3 Bird-Watching . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 8 Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 4 Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 9 Diving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 5 Horseback Riding . . . . . . . . . . .79 10 Windsurfing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 iv CONTENTS 4 Dublin 85 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Monumental Humor . . . . . . . .136 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .91 Family Favorites . . . . . . . . . . .140 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .92 6 The Great Outdoors . . . . . . . .145 Fast Facts:Dublin . . . . . . . . . .96 7 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . .147 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .111 New Kid on the Block: Picnic, Anyone? . . . . . . . . . . .119 The Old City . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .124 9 Dublin After Dark . . . . . . . . . .154 The Book of Kells . . . . . . . . . .125 10 Side Trips from Dublin . . . . . . .163 5 Out from Dublin 173 1 County Wicklow & County Beyond the Pale in Carlow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 County Laois . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 2 County Kildare:Ireland’s Horse 3 Counties Meath & Louth/ Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190 The Boyne River Valley . . . . . .197 6 The Southeast 206 1 County Wexford . . . . . . . . . . .206 2 County Waterford . . . . . . . . . .224 A Trip Through History: 3 South Tipperary . . . . . . . . . . .236 Exploringthe Ring of Hook . . .214 4 County Kilkenny . . . . . . . . . . .246 7 Cork:The Rebel City 261 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261 5 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .264 6 Spectator Sports & Outdoor Fast Facts:Cork City . . . . . . . .265 Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274 3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .265 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274 4 Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 8 Cork After Dark . . . . . . . . . . .276 8 Out from Cork 279 1 Kinsale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 Southern Exposure: 2 East Cork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 An Excursion to Cape Clear Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296 3 West Cork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .292 9 County Kerry:“The Kingdom” 309 1 The Iveragh Peninsula . . . . . . .309 Swimming with a Dolphin . . . .339 2 Killarney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319 4 Tralee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344 3 The Dingle Peninsula . . . . . . .334 CONTENTS v 10 The Mouth of the Shannon:Limerick & Clare 350 1 Limerick City & Environs . . . . .350 Knowing Your Castles . . . . . . .366 2 County Clare . . . . . . . . . . . . .361 11 Galway City 381 Souvenir Stories: The 5 Spectator Sports & Outdoor Claddagh Ring . . . . . . . . . . . .382 Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .392 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393 2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .385 7 Galway City After Dark . . . . . .396 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .388 8 Side Trips from Galway City . . .398 4 Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .391 12 Out from Galway 402 1 The Galway Bay Coast . . . . . .402 Malachy Kearns, the Bodhran 2 Connemara . . . . . . . . . . . . . .406 Maker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .412 An Excursion to Inishbofin . . . .409 Lough Inagh & the Walk to Maum Ean Oratory . . . . . . . . .414 13 The Northwest:Mayo,Sligo & Donegal 421 1 County Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . .422 4 The Donegal Bay Coast . . . . . .450 A Trip to Clare Island . . . . . . .425 5 The Atlantic Highlands . . . . . .458 2 Sligo & Yeats Country . . . . . . .431 6 The Inishowen Peninsula . . . . .465 3 Donegal Town . . . . . . . . . . . .443 14 The Midlands:Along the River Shannon 470 1 Lower Shannon:The Lough 3 Upper Shannon:From Lough Derg Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .470 Ree to Lough Allen . . . . . . . . .484 2 Middle Shannon:From Birr to Athlone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .479 15 Northern Ireland 490 1 Northern Ireland Essentials . . .494 Going to the Birds: A Trip Fast Facts:Northern to Rathlin Island . . . . . . . . . . .520 Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .496 5 The Mourne Mountains . . . . . .525 2 Belfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .498 6 Derry City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .531 3 Side Trips from Belfast . . . . . .509 7 The Sperrin Mountains . . . . . .542 4 The Causeway Coast & 8 The Fermanagh Lakelands . . . .547 the Glens of Antrim . . . . . . . . .518 vi CONTENTS Appendix A:Ireland in Depth 555 1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555 2 Ireland Today . . . . . . . . . . . . .566 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .555 3 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .567 Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . . .565 Appendix B:Useful Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 568 Index 570 List of Maps Ireland 6 Cork City 263 Irish Rail Routes 47 County Cork 281 Major Irish Bus Routes 48 County Kerry 311 Dublin Orientation 88 Killarney 321 Dublin Area Rapid Transit (DART) Limerick City 351 Routes 93 County Clare 363 Dublin Accommodations 100 Galway City 383 Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area County Galway 403 Accommodations 107 County Mayo 423 Dublin Dining 112 County Sligo 433 Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area Sligo Town 435 Dining 123 Donegal Town 445 Dublin Attractions 126 County Donegal 451 Side Trips from Dublin 165 The River Shannon’s Shores 471 The East Coast 174 Northern Ireland 492 The Southeast 208 Belfast 499 Wexford Town 211 Derry City 533 Waterford City 225 Kilkenny City 249 An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Ireland 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma- tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Ireland from $60 a Day Frommer’s Great Britain Frommer’s Best Loved Driving Tours in Ireland Ireland For Dummies Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec- ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks • Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways • Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends • Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions