00 542842 FM.qxd 1/21/04 9:46 AM Page i Grand Canyon National Park 4th Edition by Shane Christensen Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine 00 542842 FM.qxd 1/21/04 9:46 AM Page ii Published by: WILEYPUBLISHING,INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. 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Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 00 542842 FM.qxd 1/21/04 9:46 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi 1 Welcome to the Grand Canyon 1 1 The Park Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 2 The Best of the Grand Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Planning Your Trip to Grand Canyon 2 National Park 13 1 Getting Started:Information & Reservations . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 2 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 What Things Cost at the Grand Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 3 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Driving Distances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 4 Learning Vacations & Special Programs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 5 Tips for Travelers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 6 Tips for Travelers with Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 7 Tips for Travelers with Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 8 Protecting Your Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 3 Exploring the Grand Canyon 31 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Exploring the Park Without a Car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Fast Facts: The Grand Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 2 How to See the Park in Several Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 How Grand Is the Grand Canyon? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 3 Driving Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Hermits Rest Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Desert View Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 North Rim: Cape Royal Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 4 Ranger Programs & Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 5 Historic & Man-Made Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 00 542842 FM.qxd 1/21/04 9:46 AM Page iv Hikes & Other Outdoor Pursuits in the 4 Grand Canyon 59 Recommended Hiking Distances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 1 Preparing for Your Backcountry Trip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Equipment Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 2 Exploring the Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 A Note About Difficulty of Trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 3 Trails on the South Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 4 Trails on the North Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Shooting the Canyon: Tips for Photographers . . . . . . . . . . . .72 5 South Rim Corridor Trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 6 North Rim Corridor Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 7 South Rim Wilderness Trails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 8 North Rim Wilderness Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 9 Backcountry Campgrounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 Camping Etiquette & Special Regulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 10 Other Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Reserve a Mule Trip in Advance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 5 Camping with a Car in the Grand Canyon Area 101 1 Camping Inside the Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 2 Camping Outside the Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Campgrounds in the Grand Canyon Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 3 Picnic & Camping Supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Where to Stay & Eat in Grand Canyon 6 National Park 112 1 South Rim Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 Reserving a Room Inside the Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 2 Lodging Inside the Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 3 Lodging on the North Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 4 Where to Eat on the South Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 5 Where to Eat Inside the Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 6 Where to Eat on the North Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 00 542842 FM.qxd 1/21/04 9:46 AM Page v 7 Gateway Towns 124 1 Flagstaff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 2 Tusayan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 3 Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 4 Cameron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150 5 Towns & Outposts Near the North Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 6 Kanab,Utah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 7 Havasu Canyon & Supai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 8 A Nature Guide to Grand Canyon National Park 167 1 The Ecosystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 Protecting the Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170 2 The Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173 3 The Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178 4 The Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 Index 196 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 00 542842 FM.qxd 1/21/04 9:46 AM Page vi List of Maps Grand Canyon Overview 2 Bright Angel & South Kaibab Arizona 21 Trails (South Rim) 75 Grand Canyon Driving North Kaibab Trail Times & Distances 23 (North Rim) 79 Hermits Rest Route & South Hermit Trail/Dripping Rim Trails 39 Springs/Boucher Trails (South Rim) 83 Desert View Drive 45 Grand Canyon Area Cape Royal Drive & North Campgrounds 103 Rim Area 51 Grand Canyon Village 115 Trails on the North Rim 71 Flagstaff 126 01 542842 Ch01.qxd 1/21/04 9:45 AM Page 1 1 Welcome to the Grand Canyon Y ears ago, upon completing a hike in the Grand Canyon, I stood at the rim, gazing one last time at the colors below, and vowed right then to inform everyone how lucky they were to be alive. My good intentions lasted for only a day, but it was an unforgettable one, and when it was over I realized that the canyon had moved me the way religion moves fervent believers. At the time I wasn’t sure why. Only after I began work on this book did I begin to understand all those things that, for me, make the canyon not just a beautiful place, but a sacred one as well. When I returned to the canyon, I was awed by the terraced buttes and mesas, rising thousands of feet from the canyon floor and divid- ing the many side canyons. Early cartographers and geologists noticed similarities between these pinnacles and some of the greatest works of human hands. Clarence Edward Dutton, who scouted the canyon for the U.S. Geological Survey in 1880–81, referred to them as tem- ples and named them after eastern deities such as Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. François Matthes, who drew up a topographical map of the canyon in 1902, continued the tradition by naming Wotans Throne and Krishna Temple, among other landmarks. The temples not only inspire reverence but tell the grandest of sto- ries. Half the earth’s history is represented in the canyon’s rocks. The oldest and deepest rock layer, the Vishnu Formation, began forming 2 billion years ago, before aerobic life-forms even existed. The dif- ferent layers of sedimentary rock that piled up atop the Vishnu tell of landscapes that changed like dreams. They speak of mountains that really did move, eroding away into nothingness; of oceans that poured forth across the land before receding; of deserts, swamps, and rivers the size of the Mississippi—all where the canyon now lies. The fossils in these layers illustrate the very evolution of life. Many of the latest products of evolution—over 1,500 plant and 400 animal species—still survive at the canyon today. 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CardBeuntatesDr. WatchtowCMeeorduanrtain AUBREYCLIFFS To 6 P6ho&en Kixingman(cid:1) COCONINO PLATEAU RUannpgaevre dSt raotiaodn SOUTH RIM GCVairlanlanygdoen Desert View the upper reaches of the Kaibab Plateau (on the canyon’s North Rim), this small area of northern Arizona includes zones of biolog- ical life comparable to ones found as far south as Mexico and as far north as Alaska. The species come in every shape, size, and tem- perament, ranging from tiny ant lions dwelling on the canyon floor to 1,000-pound elk roaming the rims. And for every species, there is a story within the story. Take the Douglas fir, for example. Once part of a forest that covered both rims and much of the canyon, this tree has endured since the last Ice Age on shady, north-facing slopes beneath the South Rim—long after the sun-baked rim itself became too hot and inhospitable. As much as I like the stories, I also enjoy the mysteries that can’t be explained. The web of ecological cause-and-effect among the canyon’s species is too complicated for any mortal to untangle. It leaves endless questions to ponder, such as why the agave blooms only once every 20-odd years. Similarly, the canyon’s rocks withhold as much as they tell. 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GGCVGCVaaiirrrllaaannllnaannyydggddoo CeeYnna‘ankyio Pnoi‘GntraPnodinvtiewDDeessMeerrPttooirnatn TaVVuLPniiisopeedaiaww nyMnatnu DDsRrre..uuimnsDe6‘s4ertF VlaiegwsgtaTfof To 64 & 1 8 0 & Grand Canyon Airport(cid:1) Camper Village KAIBAB NATIONAL FOREST (cid:1) deposited atop it—a gap in the geological record commonly referred to as The Great Unconformity. Other gaps—or unconformities— exist between other layers. And river gravels that would have explained how the canyon was cut have long since washed away. The more time I spend inside the canyon, the better I hope to understand the first people who dwelt here. A number of different tribes have lived in or around the canyon, and the Navajo, Havasu- pai, Kaibab Paiute, Hopi, Zuni, and Hualapai tribes still live in the area. Before the white man arrived, they awakened to the colors of the canyon, made their clothes from its plants and animals, smelled it, touched it, tasted it, and felt it underfoot. The Hopi still regard the canyon as their place of emergence and the place to which their dead return. Native Americans have left behind more than 3,000 archaeological sites and artifacts that may be as old as 10,000 years. All this runs through my mind when I walk the canyon floor. I also contemplate some of the first white people who came to this mystical place. The canyon moved them to do extraordinary, if not always productive, things. I think about the prospectors who