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Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 AN IMPORTANT NOTE The world is a dynamic place. Hotels change ownership, restaurants hike their prices, museums alter their opening hours, and busses and trains change their routings. And all of this can occur in the several months after our authors have visited, inspected, and written about, these hotels, restaurants, museums and transportation services. Though we have made valiant efforts to keep all our information fresh and up-to-date, some few changes can inevitably occur in the periods before a revised edition of this guidebook is published. So please bear with us if a tiny number of the details in this book have changed. Please also note that we have no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for inconvenience, loss, damage, or expenses suffered by anyone as a result of assertions in this guide. C O N T E N T S 1 THE BEST OF CROATIA 2 CROATIA IN DEPTH 3 CROATIA REGIONS & SUGGESTED ITINERARIES The Regions in Brief 4 ZAGREB Essentials What to See & Do Where to Stay Where to Dine Zagreb After Dark 5 EXCURSIONS FROM ZAGREB Orientation Excursions South of Zagreb Excursions North of Zagreb 6 OSIJEK & INLAND CROATIA Orientation Sisak & the Lonjsko Polje Eastern Slavonia Osijek Baranja Vukovar & Ilok 7 ISTRIA Orientation Pula (Pola) Brijuni Archipelago (Brioni) Vodnjan (Dignano) Rovinj (Rovigno) Pore (Parenzo) Umag (Umago) & Savudrija (Salvore) Inland Istria 8 RIJEKA & THE KVARNER GULF Rijeka The Opatija Riviera Krk Island Rab Island Cres & Lošinj Islands 9 UPPER DALMATIA Orientation Zadar Zadar Environs 10 LOWER DALMATIA Orientation Split Salona Trogir Makarska Riviera Bra Hvar Korula Vis 11 DUBROVNIK Orientation What to See & Do Where to Stay Where to Dine Bars & Nightlife Dubrovnik Day Trips 12 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO CROATIA 13 USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES INDEX ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jane Foster is a freelance travel writer (with a background in architecture), specializing in Croatia and Greece. Based in Split on the Dalmatian coast, she has traveled extensively through Croatia and neighboring countries, and has seen the region go through many changes since 1998. She writes for various U.K. and U.S. guidebooks, websites, newspapers, and in-flight magazines. She enjoys hiking, cycling, sailing, discovering hidden beaches, camping, drinking red wine, and cooking and eating with the seasons. For more information, see www.jane-foster.com. ABOUT THE FROMMER’S TRAVEL GUIDES For most of the past 50 years, Frommer’s has been the leading series of travel guides in North America, accounting for as many as 24 percent of all guidebooks sold. I think I know why. Although we hope our books are entertaining, we nevertheless deal with travel in a serious fashion. Our guidebooks have never looked on such journeys as a mere recreation, but as a far more important human function, a time of learning and introspection, an essential part of a civilized life. We stress the culture, lifestyle, history, and beliefs of the destinations we cover and urge our readers to seek out people and new ideas as the chief rewards of travel. We have never shied from controversy. We have, from the beginning, encouraged our authors to be intensely judgmental, critical—both pro and con—in their comments, and wholly independent. Our only clients are our readers, and we have triggered the ire of countless prominent sorts, from a tourist newspaper we called “practically worthless” (it unsuccessfully sued us) to the many rip-offs we’ve condemned. And because we believe that travel should be available to everyone regardless of their incomes, we have always been cost-conscious at every level of expenditure. Although we have broadened our recommendations beyond the budget category, we insist that every lodging we include be sensibly priced. We use every form of media to assist our readers and are particularly proud of our feisty daily website, the award-winning Frommers.com. I have high hopes for the future of Frommer’s. May these guidebooks, in all the years ahead, continue to reflect the joy of travel and the freedom that travel represents. May they always pursue a cost-conscious path, so that people of all incomes can enjoy the rewards of travel. And may they create, for both the traveler and the persons among whom we travel, a community of friends, where all human beings live in harmony and peace. Arthur Frommer 1 THE BEST OF CROATIA U ntil recently, Croatia’s tourist season ran from July through August, and belonged almost exclusively to Europeans, who clogged border crossings in their annual migration to the country’s endless coastline and clear blue sea. Finally, however, the rest of the world has discovered Croatia’s charms: its wealth of Roman ruins, medieval hilltop castles, and staggering cache of natural wonders. Even though the summer season now runs longer and the crowds are larger and more diverse, it is still possible to find a secluded pebble cove, or a family-run winery where time seems to have stood still. Every town and village has at least one restaurant where the locals hang out and where the slice of life you get with your meal is the best dessert there is. When all the big modern hotels are filled, there is always a room waiting in a private home where the landlord welcomes you like a long-lost friend. This chapter is a “road map,” directing you to some of my favorites. I know you’ll add to the list when you find some of your own. best THE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES ARRIVING IN VIS TOWN BY SAILBOAT (VIS): THERE’S NO BETTER WAY TO EXPLORE CROATIA’S MYRIAD ISLANDS THAN BY PRIVATE BOAT. IF YOU CHARTER A YACHT IN SPLIT, YOU CAN ARRIVE ON THE DISTANT ISLAND OF VIS IN APPROXIMATELY 5 HOURS (DEPENDING ON THE WIND), PASSING THE MORE VISITED ISLANDS OF BRA AND HVAR ON THE WAY. VIS TOWN SITS IN A SHELTERED BAY, WHERE YOU CAN MOOR UP ON THE SEAFRONT AND STEP ASHORE FOR A DINNER OF FRESH FISH AND LOCALLY PRODUCED ORGANIC WINE. SEE P. 176. Exploring Brijuni National Park (Istria): Rising from the turquoise-blue Adriatic, the meticulously kept islet of Veli Brijuni boasts lawns, parkland, pinewoods, Roman ruins, exotic animals, and a small museum to the former president of Yugoslavia, Tito, who entertained glamorous friends like Liz Taylor and Richard Burton here each summer. See p. 80. Listening to the Sea Organ (Zadar): Waves create music as they move water through this organ’s undersea pipes. Add a set of white stone steps leading into the crystal water above, and beams of light shooting from sister installation Greeting to the Sun on Zadar’s Riva, and the result is a matchless venue for enjoying a multimedia symphony courtesy of the sea and sky. See p. 130. Reaching the Top of Mount Biokovo (Makarska): Rising behind the seaside town of Makarska, rocky Biokovo is Croatia’s second highest mountain. From Sveti Jure, at the top (1,762m/5,780 ft.), you get stunning views down onto the deep blue Adriatic and the Dalmatian islands of Bra, Hvar, and Korula. Looking inland, to the east, you can see the rugged mountains of Bosnia/Herzegovina, which often remain snow-covered into April. See p. 159. Sea-Kayaking Round the Elafiti Islets (Dubrovnik): One of Croatia’s top draws is its varied choice of adventure sports activities. Near Dubrovnik, the tiny car-free Elafiti Islets are ideal for exploring by sea kayak, as they lie close together. While you’re at it, kayaking does wonders for your torso. See p. 195. Visiting the Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb): Love and separation are universal themes. Croatia knows plenty about them, having once been a member of Yugoslavia before fighting a bitter war for independence. This internationally acclaimed museum has found a fitting home in Zagreb, with each exhibit connected to a love story that went wrong,