01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page i Argentina & Chile 3rd Edition by Haas Mroue, Kristina Schreck & Michael Luongo Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page i 01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page i Argentina & Chile 3rd Edition by Haas Mroue, Kristina Schreck & Michael Luongo Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_584391 ffirs.qxd 5/17/05 6:27 PM Page ii Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys- tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo- copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for per- mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572- 4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: 978-0-7645-8439-8 ISBN-10: 0-7645-8439-1 Editor: Kendra L. Falkenstein special thanks to Marc Nadeau and Stephen Bassman Production Editor: Bethany André Cartographer: Liz Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Patagonia, Chile: Torres del Paine National Park Back cover photo: A tango demonstration in the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 02_584391 ftoc.qxd 5/17/05 7:53 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vii What’s New in Argentina & Chile 1 1 The Best of Argentina & Chile 7 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 3 The Best Outdoor Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Adventures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 2 The Best Charming Small 4 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 5 The Best Dining Experiences . . .15 2 Planning Your Trip to Argentina 18 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .18 6 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . .24 2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .21 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .25 3 Entry Requirements 8 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 9 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .29 4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 10 The Active Vacation Planner . . .31 5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Fast Facts: Argentina . . . . . . . .32 3 Buenos Aires 35 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . .62 Fast Facts: Buenos Aires . . . . . .41 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 6 Buenos Aires After Dark . . . . . .75 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Tango: Lessons in the Dance of Seduction & Despair . . . . . . .76 4 Side Trips from Buenos Aires 80 1 Mar del Plata,Argentina . . . . . .80 Fast Facts: Montevideo . . . . . . .86 2 An Introduction to Uruguay . . . .82 4 Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 3 Montevideo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 5 Colonia del Sacramento . . . . . .95 5 Iguazú Falls 97 1 Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 2 The Brazilian Side:Foz do Behind the Falls and into Iguaçu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 theIguazúJungle . . . . . . . . . .101 02_584391 ftoc.qxd 5/17/05 7:54 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 6 The Northwest 107 1 Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 3 San Salvador de Jujuy . . . . . . .120 Riding the Train to 4 Driving the Quebrada de the Clouds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Humahuaca (Humahuaca 2 A Driving Tour of the Gorge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Calchaquíes Valley via Cachi &Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 7 Córdoba 124 1 Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 2 Villa Carlos Paz . . . . . . . . . . .131 Fast Facts: Córdoba . . . . . . . .126 3 La Falda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 8 Mendoza 135 1 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 3 The Alta Montaña Driving Fast Facts: Mendoza . . . . . . . .138 Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 2 Touring the Wineries . . . . . . . .145 Hitting the Slopes in Las Leñas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 The Story of Mendoza’s Wine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 9 The Argentine Lake District 153 1 San Carlos de Bariloche . . . . .154 Fast Facts:San Martín Fast Facts:Bariloche . . . . . . . .158 de los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . .176 2 Villa La Angostura . . . . . . . . .171 4 Junín de los Andes . . . . . . . . .185 3 San Martín de los Andes . . . . .175 10 Peninsula Valdes 187 1 Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . . . .188 3 Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197 Fast Facts:Puerto Madryn . . . .190 High Tea in Gaiman . . . . . . . .199 2 Puerto Piramides . . . . . . . . . .195 11 Planning Your Trip to Chile 200 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . .200 6 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . .207 2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . .202 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .207 Recommended Websites 8 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . .208 for Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 9 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .209 3 Entry Requirements 10 Tips on Accommodations . . . .212 & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 11 The Active Vacation Planner . . .213 4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204 Fast Facts:Chile . . . . . . . . . . .216 5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205 02_584391 ftoc.qxd 5/17/05 7:54 PM Page v CONTENTS v 12 Santiago 218 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .233 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .221 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .242 Fast Facts:Santiago . . . . . . . .223 6 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 3 Where To Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .224 7 Santiago After Dark . . . . . . . .254 13 Around Santiago & the Central Valley 258 1 Viña del Mar . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 The “Wild West” of Fast Facts: Viña del Mar . . . . .261 South America . . . . . . . . . . . .284 2 Valparaíso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267 Pomaire Pottery . . . . . . . . . . .285 Walking Tour: From the Port A Select Tour of Chile’s totheHeights of Valparaiso . . .274 Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286 3 Excursions Outside Valparaíso 6 The Wineries of the Central & Viña del Mar . . . . . . . . . . . .278 Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 4 Cajón de Maipo . . . . . . . . . . .279 7 The Nearby Ski Resorts . . . . . .293 5 The Central Valley . . . . . . . . . .283 8 Chillán & Termas de Chillán Resort . . . . . . . . . . . .296 14 The Desert North & San Pedro de Atacama 300 1 Calama & the Chuquicamata 2 San Pedro de Atacama . . . . . .305 Copper Mine . . . . . . . . . . . . .302 15 The Chilean Lake District 315 1 Temuco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .315 6 Frutillar,Puerto Octay,Puerto The Alerce & the Araucaria: Varas,Lago Llanquihue, Living National Monuments . . .320 Ensenada, ParqueNacional VicentePérez Rosales & the 2 Villarrica & Pucón . . . . . . . . . .322 Lake Crossing to Argentina . . .353 3 Siete Lagos:Panguipulli 7 Puerto Montt . . . . . . . . . . . . .369 & Lican Ray . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338 8 Ferry Crossings to the Carretera 4 Valdivia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342 Austral & Sailing to Patagonia 5 Puyehue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 Through the Fjords . . . . . . . . .375 16 Chiloé 377 Driving to & Around Chiloé . . .378 “See Food” Everywhere: Chiloé’s World Heritage What to Eat on Chiloé . . . . . .383 Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 2 Castro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385 1 Ancud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380 3 Excursions Outside Castro . . . .389 02_584391 ftoc.qxd 5/17/05 7:54 PM Page vi vi CONTENTS 17 The Carretera Austral 393 1 Driving the Carretera Rafting on the Rio Austral . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393 Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405 2 Parque Nacional Alerce 6 Puyuhuapi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .408 Andino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396 7 Coyhaique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .411 3 Pumalín Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .397 Fast Facts:Coyhaique . . . . . . .414 4 Chaitén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399 8 Puerto Aysén,Puerto 5 South from Chaitén: Chacabuco & Laguna Futaleufú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402 SanRafaelNational Park . . . .421 18 Patagonia,Tierra del Fuego & Antarctica 425 1 Punta Arenas,Chile . . . . . . . .426 4 El Calafate,Argentina . . . . . . .457 Cruising from Punta Arenas 5 El Chaltén & the Fitz Roy Area, toUshuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .428 Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .466 Fast Facts:Punta Arenas . . . . .430 6 The Far South:Puerto Williams, 2 Puerto Natales,Chile . . . . . . .439 Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469 Fast Facts:Puerto Natales . . . .440 7 Tierra del Fuego:Ushuaia, Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .471 3 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine,Chile . . . . . . . . . . .447 8 Antarctica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480 Index 487 02_584391 ftoc.qxd 5/17/05 7:54 PM Page vii List of Maps Argentina 19 Around Santiago & the Central Buenos Aires 36 Valley 259 Uruguay 83 Valparaíso 269 Montevideo 85 Walking Tour: From the Port to the Heights of Valparaíso 275 The Iguazú Falls Region 99 The Desert North 301 Northwestern Argentina 109 Chile’s Lake District 317 Córdoba 125 Valdivia 343 Mendoza 137 Puerto Montt 371 Argentina’s Lake District 155 Chiloé 379 San Carlos de Bariloche 157 The Carretera Austral 395 Peninsula Valdes 189 Coyhaique 413 Chile 201 Patagonia 427 Santiago at a Glance 219 Punta Arenas 429 Downtown Santiago Accommodations, Dining Ushuaia 473 &Attractions 226 Antarctica 481 Accommodations, Dining & Attractions in Providencia &Las Condes 229 03_584391 flast.qxd 5/17/05 6:26 PM Page viii About the Authors Haas Mroue(chapters 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 18) is a freelance travel writer based in the United States. His short stories, poems, and travel pieces have appeared in a vari- ety of publications—including the Michigan Quarterly Review,the Literary Review, Berlitz and National Geographic guides, among many others—and his work has been broadcast on the BBC World Service and Starz! cable channel. He is the author of Frommer’s Mem- orable Walks In Paris, Frommer’s Paris from $95 a Day,Frommer’sAmsterdam Day by Day, and is a contributor to Frommer’s South America, Frommer’s Gay & Lesbian Europe, and Frommer’s Europe from $85 a Day. Kristina Schreck (chapters 1, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18) spends an endless amount of time on the road, but is happiest when back in Santiago, Chile, where she lives. She has traveled widely around the globe, and has lived in Argentina and Chile for nearly a decade, working as a freelance writer, an outdoor guide, and the marketing manager of Portillo ski resort. Currently, she is a public relations consultant for a variety of tourism- related entities. She is the former managing editor of Adventure Journal magazine, and is co-author of the first edition of Frommer’s Argentina & Chile. Michael Luongo(chapters 1, 3, and 4) has written on Argentina for theNew York Times, the Chicago Tribune, Frommer´s Budget Travel, National Geographic Traveler, Town & Country Traveler,the Advocate, Out Traveler, and numerous other publications. Having been to more than 75 countries and all 7 continents, Luongo considers Argentina to be one of his all-time favorites, and the first time he was in Buenos Aires, he cried when he had to leave. Living in Buenos Aires like a “real native” in order to write for Frommer´s was like living a dream. His only regret is being a bad tangoer—even though he loves watching other people do the dance. Acknowledgments Haas Mroue would like to thank Ines Segarra at the Argentina Government Tourist Office in New York. He’d also like to thank Charlie O’Malley, Kelly Thornhill, and Kai Renk in Mendoza; and Mario in Patagonia for his exceptional driving skills on the end- less miles of gravel roads. He’d like to extend special thanks to the team at the Secretaria de Turismo in Salta for their invaluable assistance. Kristina Schreck would like to thank Mark Rawsthorne, Felipe Pumarino, and Amy Wilson for their help in updating this guide. Michael Luongo: I want to give a big thanks to my editor Kendra for having the patience to work with me. Thanks to Ines and Deborah and Ricardo in New York, and to Luis, Lawrence, and Marcos in Buenos Aires for all of your help. I am sure I am missing many people, but please know you’re loved and appreciated!