01_124796 ffirs.qxp 6/26/07 11:26 PM Page i Argentina 1st Edition by Michael Luongo, Charlie O’Malley & Christie Pashby Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_124796 ffirs.qxp 6/26/07 11:26 PM Page i 01_124796 ffirs.qxp 6/26/07 11:26 PM Page i Argentina 1st Edition by Michael Luongo, Charlie O’Malley & Christie Pashby Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_124796 ffirs.qxp 6/26/07 11:26 PM Page ii Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. 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All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN: 978-0-470-12479-6 Editor: Maureen Clarke Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Cerro Torre in Los Glaciares National Park (Patagonia) Back cover photo: A tango demonstration in San Telmo, Buenos Aires For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 02_124796 ftoc.qxp 6/26/07 11:27 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vii 1 The Best of Argentina 1 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 3 The Best Outdoor Adventures . . . . . . .4 Experiences in Argentina . . . . . . . . . .1 4 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 2 The Best Charming Small Towns . . . . .3 5 The Best Dining Experiences . . . . . . . .7 2 Planning Your Trip to Argentina 9 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Frommers.com: The Complete 2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . .13 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . . .27 4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .29 5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 6 Health & Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 11 Independent Travel Packages & Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .33 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .21 Fast Facts: Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . .35 8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .25 12 The Active Vacation Planner . . . . . . .37 3 Suggested Argentina Itineraries 42 1 Five Days in Buenos Aires . . . . . . . . .42 4 Mendoza:Malbec & Mountains . . . .49 2 Northern Patagonia: 5 Patagonia Wildlife:Península Lakes & Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Valdés & Los Glaciares 3 Hiking Southern Argentine National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Patagonia in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . .47 4 Buenos Aires 55 by Michael Luongo 1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 4 What to See & Do . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Fast Facts: Buenos Aires . . . . . . . . . .60 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 2 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63 6 Buenos Aires After Dark . . . . . . . . .144 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Tango Lowdown . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 02_124796 ftoc.qxp 6/26/07 11:27 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS The Pampas,the Coast & Other Side Trips 5 from Buenos Airies 152 by Michael Luongo 1 Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 6 Colonia del Sacramento,Uruguay . . .173 2 Miramar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159 7 Montevideo,Uruguay . . . . . . . . . . .175 3 La Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162 Fast Facts: Montevideo . . . . . . . . . .178 4 Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 8 San Antonio de Areco & 5 Puente del Este,Uruguay . . . . . . . .167 Pampas Estancias . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183 6 Iguazú Falls & the Northeast 190 by Charlie O’Malley 1 Iguazú Falls & Puerto Iguazú . . . . .190 2 The Brazilian Side: Behind the Falls & Foz do Iguaçu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 into the Jungle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Border Crossing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 3 Resistencia & El Chaco . . . . . . . . . .203 7 Salta & the Northwest 205 by Charlie O’Malley 1 Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205 4 Driving the Quebrada de Train to the Clouds: Delayed Humahuaca (Humahuaca until Further Notice . . . . . . . . . . . .208 Gorge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224 2 A Driving Tour of the Calchaquíes 5 Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225 Valley via Cachi & Cafayate . . . . . .215 6 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228 3 San Salvador de Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . .221 8 Córdoba & the Central Sierras 232 by Charlie O’Malley 1 Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232 3 La Falda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .246 Fast Facts: Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . .234 4 La Cumbre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 Touring the Jesuit Estancias . . . . . .240 Parque Nacional Sierra 2 Villa Carlos Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 de las Quijadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 Parque Nacional Quebrada 5 Alta Gracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250 del Condorito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245 02_124796 ftoc.qxp 6/26/07 11:27 PM Page v CONTENTS v 9 Mendoza,the Wine Country & the Central Andes 252 by Christie Pashby 1 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 3 San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282 Fast Facts: Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . .256 4 The Alta Montaña The Real Scoop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262 Driving Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284 2 Touring the Wineries . . . . . . . . . . .266 Roadside Shrines: Folk Saints of Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . .285 Taking Wine Home . . . . . . . . . . . .268 Hitting the Slopes in Las Leñas . . . .288 When to Visit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 A Shared Backbone: Crossing The Story of Mendoza’s Wine . . . . .281 into Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290 10 The Argentine Lake District 292 by Christie Pashby 1 San Carlos de Bariloche . . . . . . . . .294 Driving to Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .319 Fast Facts: Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . .297 4 Driving Bariloche to San Martín . . .320 What’s with All the Chocolate? . . .298 5 San Martín de los Andes . . . . . . . . .322 Nah-Well What? . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299 Fast Facts: San Martín 2 South of Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . .313 de los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324 Ruta 40: The Road South . . . . . . . .314 6 Junín de los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . .333 3 Villa La Angostura . . . . . . . . . . . . .315 11 Península Valdés & Southern Patagonia 335 by Christie Pashby 1 Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338 6 El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .355 Fast Facts: Puerto Madryn . . . . . . .340 Fast Facts: El Calafate . . . . . . . . . .355 2 Península Valdés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .347 7 Parque Nacional los Glaciares & Kayak Expedition: Up Close & Perito Moreno Glacier . . . . . . . . . . .366 Personal with Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . .349 How to See the Glacier . . . . . . . . . .369 3 Puerto Pirámides . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 8 El Chaltén & the FitzRoy Area . . . . .370 4 Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352 Patagonia’s Famous Peaks . . . . . . .374 5 Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .353 9 Torres del Paine National High Tea in Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . .354 Park,Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377 02_124796 ftoc.qxp 6/26/07 11:27 PM Page vi vi CONTENTS 12 Tierra del Fuego & Antarctica 386 by Charlie O’Malley 1 Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386 Monster Trout on the Cruising from Punta Arenas Río Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400 to Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .389 2 Puerto Williams,Chile . . . . . . . . . . .401 Fast Facts: Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . .390 3 Antarctica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .403 Appendix A:Argentina in Depth 410 by Michael Luongo 1 Settlement & Colonization . . . . . . .410 4 The Cultural Growth of the 2 Independence & Warfare . . . . . . . .411 1920s & 1930s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .414 3 Buenos Aires,the Capital . . . . . . . .413 5 The Perón Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .415 6 The Dirty War & Its Aftermath . . . . .417 Appendix B:Survival Spanish 421 Index 425 02_124796 ftoc.qxp 6/26/07 11:27 PM Page vii List of Maps Argentina 11 The Iguazú Falls Region 191 Buenos Aires in 5 Days 44 Northwestern Argentina 207 Northern Patagonia Lakes & Salta 209 Villages 47 Córdoba 233 Hiking Southern Patagonia Córdoba Province 243 in 1 Week 49 Mendoza 253 Mendoza: Malbec & Mountains 51 Mendoza Province 267 Península Valdés & Los Glaciares 53 Argentina’s Lake District 293 Where to Stay in Buenos Aires 64 Seven Lakes Route 321 Where to Stay & Dine in Palermo 86 Patagonia 337 Where to Dine in Buenos Aires 90 Península Valdés/Puerto Madryn 339 Buenos Aires Sightseeing 124 Southern Patagonia 357 Buenos Aires Shopping & Los Glaciares National Park 367 Nightlife 136 Ushuaia 387 Palermo Shopping & Nightlife 140 Antarctica 405 Mar del Plata 154 Montevideo 177 03_124796 flast.qxp 6/26/07 11:27 PM Page viii About the Authors Michael Luongohas written on Argentina for theNew York Times, theChicago Tribune, From- mer’s Budget Travel, National Geographic Traveler, Bloomberg News, Out Traveler,and many other publications. He is senior editor for Haworth Press’s Out in the World Series, on gay and les- bian travel literature, and he also authors Frommer’s Buenos Aires.His debut novel, The Voyeur, was published by Alyson Books in 2007. He has visited more than 80 countries and all seven continents, but few places have stolen his heart like Argentina. Highlights of his travels there include riding Juan Perón’s coffin through the streets of Buenos Aires during his 2006 reburial, and wearing Evita’s perfume to a dinner party. Visit him at www.michaelluongo.com. Charlie O’Malleyworked in theater for many years in England and Ireland. In 2002 he dis- covered South America—the most theatrical continent there is—and has traveled extensively throughout the region. He currently lives in Mendoza, Argentina, and is editor of the wine mag- azine Wine Republic. Christie Pashbyis the author of Frommer´s Banff & Jasper National Parks.A freelance editor, journalist, and translator, she is the former editor of the Canmore Leadernewspaper and the WildLifearts magazine, and she worked previously as a reporter in Costa Rica. Her freelance writing has appeared in many of Canada’s major daily newspapers. She divides her time between the Canadian Rockies and Patagonia, Argentina, where she runs a small guiding business with her husband. Her websites include www.patagoniatravelco.com and www.patagonialiving.com. Acknowledgments A big thanks to my editor, Maureen Clarke, and to my Buenos Aires book editor, Jamie Ehrlich; to Kathleen Warnock for introducing me to them; and to Melinda Quintero and so many others at Frommer’s. Thanks to Inés Segarra and Debora Pucheta for their endless help; to Alejandro, Verónica, Vicky, and everyone else in the Argentine Tourism and Consular Office in New York; and to Eduardo Piva in Miami. To Luciana Beiler and Carlos Enrique Mayer and everyone at the National Tourism Office; to Ruben, Jorge Giberti, Milciades Pena, and everyone at the Buenos Aires City Tourism office; and to Claudia Kuzmicz of BA Province. Thanks to Gabriel Miremont at Museo Evita, and to Luis and Lawrence for being big brothers to me over the years. —Michael Luongo Thanks to Alec Quinn and María Paz Muriel in Ushuaia; to the Beggs in Córdoba; Martha Chocobar in Cafayate; to winemakers Jason Mabbett and David Kingsbury for their driving skills on the Route 40; and to everybody at Frommer’s—especially his editor Maureen Clarke— for their encouragement. A very special thanks to Ana Laura Aguilera—my traveling compan- ion, assistant, researcher, driver, and girlfriend. —Charlie O’Malley I would like to thank Gabriela in Chacras; Charlie and Carolyn in Mendoza; La Rubia for emer- gency floor space; Max, for bringing me home to Bariloche; and my family in Toronto for sup- porting my ever-evolving wanderlust, and for picking me up at the airport at 6am. —Christie Pashby