FODORS FINLAND ICELAND DATED 4 914.8048 F683 1987 Fodor's Scandinavia HOME AS !S CLOSE AS A PHONE. WithAT&TInternationalLongDistance,it'seasytocallthe Statesfromover200countries.Sowhetheryou'reeagerto sharenewsofyourtravelswithfamilyandfriends,orwant tocheckinattheoffice,remembertopickupthephone.You'll findthatkeepingintouchduringbusinessorpleasuretrips iseasywithAT&TAndwithyourAT&TCard,itcancost lessthanyou'dthink.Sowhatareyouwaitingfor? Beachoutandtouchsomeone? 1 FORTHECAOCUCENSTSRYooFoRcOMWHICH + 1 + YOUARECAU.IMG 5 TOCALLFROM: ACCESSCODE: TOCALLFROM: ACCESSCODE: UNITEDKINGDOM 010 WESTGERMANY 00 ITALY 00 SPAIN 07* FRANCE 19" JAPAN 001 Whencallingfromahotelroom,youmayfirstneedtodial8,9or0.OruseUSADirect, tospeak"directlytoanAT&ToperatorintheU.S.,fromselectedcountries,for operatorassistedcalls.InFrancedial19*-0011,intheUnitedKingdomdial0800-89-0011. 5 Forfurtherassistance,mostoperatorsspeakEnglish. AT&T The choU right £-23EM Fooors SCANDINAVIA 1987 Fodor'sScandinavia: AreaEditors:KRISTINHELGA,SYLVIENICKELS,PHILIPRAY, ZENAST0P,PENNYVISMAN EditorialContributors:ANDREWBROWN,JANCHILWELL, SUSANPRTTCHARD,PAULSTRATHERN ExecutiveEditor:RICHARDMOORE AssociateEditor:THOMASCUSSANS AssistantEditor:MARGARETSINCLAIR Illustrations:ELIZABETHHAINES MapsandPlans:SWANSTONGRAPHICS,BRYANWOODFIELD FODOR'S TRAVEL GUIDES NewYork&London Copyright©1987byFODOR'STRAVELGUIDES ISBN0-679-01401-2 ISBN0-340-40032-3(Hodder&Stoughtonedition) Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutpermissionin writingfromthepublisher. ThefollowingFodor'sGuidesarecurrent;mostarealsoavailableinaBritish editionpublishedbyHodder&Stoughton. CountryandAreaGuides CityGuides NewMexico NewYorkState Australia,NewZealand Amsterdam * PacificNorthCoast &theSouthPacific Beijing,Guangzhou, South Austria Shanghai Texas Bahamas Boston U.S.A. Belgium&Luxembourg Chicago Virginia Bermuda Dallas&FortWorth Brazil GreaterMiami&the BudgetTravel Canada GoldCoast Canada'sMaritime HongKong AmericanCities(30) Provinces Houston&Galveston Britain Caribbean Lisbon Canada CentralAmerica London Caribbean EasternEurope LosAngeles Europe Egypt Madrid France Europe MexicoCity& Germany France Acapulco Hawaii Germany Munich Italy GreatBritain NewOrleans Japan Greece NewYorkCity London Holland Paris Mexico India,Nepal& Philadelphia Spain SriLanka Rome Ireland SanDiego FunGuides Israel SanFrancisco Italy Singapore Acapulco Japan Stockholm,Copenhagen, Bahamas Jordan&theHolyLand Oslo,Helsinki& LasVegas Kenya Reykjavik London Korea Sydney Maui Mexico Tokyo Montreal NewZealand Toronto NewOrleans NorthAfrica Vienna NewYorkCity People'sRepublic Washington,D.C. TheOrlandoArea ofChina Paris Portugal U.S.A.Guides PuertoRico ProvinceofQuebec Rio Scandinavia Alaska St.Martin/SimMaarten Scotland Arizona SanFrancisco SouthAmerica California Waikiki SouthPacific CapeCod SoutheastAsia Chesapeake Special-InterestGuides SovietUnion Colorado Spain FarWest SelectedHotelsofEurope Sweden Florida SkiResortsofNorth Switzerland Hawaii America Turkey 1-95:MainetoMiami ViewstoDinebyaround Yugoslavia NewEngland theWorld MANUFACTUREDINTHEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA 10987654321 41 CONTENTS FOREWORD vii PLANNINGYOURTRIP 1 SourcesofInformation 1;PackageToursorIndependentTravel? 1;TravelAgents2;TourOperators2;WhentoGo3;Time4;What to Pack 4; Taking Money Abroad 4; Passports 5; Health and Insurance 6; Student and Youth Travel 7; Hints for Handicapped Travelers7. GettingtoScandinavia:FromtheU.S.byAir8;FromtheU.S. by Boat9; FromtheU.K. byAir 10; FromtheU.K. byTrain 10; {Chart ofFerryRoutes 11); From the U.K. by Bus 13; From the U.K. byCar 13. GettingAroundScandinavia:ByAir14;ByTrain14;ByFerry 15;ByCar 16. ConversionTables 17;CustomsonReturningHome 18. ANINTRODUCTIONTOSCANDINAVIA—Varietywithin Harmony SylvieNickels 20 SCANDINAVIANHISTORY—ProsperityOutofConflict 29 MapofVikingConquests32 MapofSwedishEmpire36 MapofGrowthofModernScandinavianStates41 SCANDINAVIANCULTURE—ASubtleTasteforLiving AndrewBrown 43 FOODANDDRINK—HowtoSkalandSurvive 5 DENMARK MapofDenmark58 FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 59 PRELUDETODENMARK—TheVirtuesofSanity 66 COPENHAGEN— Scandinavia'sFunCapital 70 MapofCopenhagen74-5 ZEALANDANDITSISLANDS—HolidayHauntsandHistory 94 THECENTRALISLANDS—Funen,theGardenofDenmark 106 JUTLAND— Birds, BeachesandRunicStones 11 ISLEOFBORNHOLM—TheBalticHideaway 132 iii 2 793 CONTENTS iv FINLAND MapofFinland 140 FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 141 PRELUDETOFINLAND—Scandinavia'sRichSecret 148 HELSINKI—BroadAvenuesandBrightProspects 153 MapofHelsinki 156-7 THESOUTHCOASTANDISLANDS—TheGatewayfor FinnishCulture 169 THECENTRALPROVINCES—WayofPoetsandPioneers 177 OSTROBOTHNIA—RuralPlainstoForestedRavines 192 FINNISHLAPLAND—AdventureAmongForestWilds 200 ICELAND MapofIceland21 FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 21 PRELUDETOICELAND—LandofIceandFire 21 EXPLORINGICELAND—Volcanos, HotSpringsandGlaciers 224 MapofReykjavik225 NORWAY MapofNorway242 FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 243 PRELUDETONORWAY—SomethingNewUnderthe MidnightSun 251 OSLO— TheCountrysideCapital 256 MapofOslo260-1 THEOSLOFJORDDISTRICT—Vikings, Whalersand TwistingValleys 279 TELEMARKANDTHESOUTHCOAST—ALandFitfor Heroes 286 THEFJORDCOUNTRY—WondersandWaterfalls 299 CENTRA—LMOUNTAINS, EASTERNVALLEYS—Cradleof Liberty HomeofGiants 31 BERGEN,CAPITALOFWESTLAND—CityofQuaysandGrieg 326 1 CONTENTS v ANCIENTTRONDHEIMANDDISTRICT—StrongholdofCrown andChurch 337 WAYTOTHENORTH—Folklore, FinnmarkandtheMidnight Sun 345 SWEDEN MapofSweden362 FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 363 PRELUDETOSWEDEN—Dolls' HousesintheWilderness 370 STOCKHOLM—OpenNatureandCityPlanning 376 MapofStockholm380-1 STOCKHOLMENVIRONSANDGOTLAND—TheCapitalasan ExcursionCenter 400 SWEDEN'SSOUTHLAND—Breadbasket, BattlefieldandSummer Playground 407 GOTHENBURGANDTHEWESTCOAST—GatewaytoNorthern Europe 423 LANDOFLAKESANDFOLKLORE—HomeoftheGoths 434 NORRLANDANDLAPLAND—Europe'sLastWilderness 45 INDEX 464 PUBLIC LIBRARY || JAN'-- 1987 CITY & COUNTY OF DENVER RDllbb 823SM Discover the Europe only the natives know. AvisfeaturesGMcars Corsa Get a free "Personally Yours" itinerary when you rent from Avis. HighlightsofGermany. Undiscovered Spain. Irish castlesand palaces. And much more. PersonallyYoursSM isa customized itinerary, tailored toyour ownspecial interests, featuringdetailed drivinginstructions, hotel and restaurantsuggestions. plusout-of-the-way placesonlythe .. natives knowabout. Besuretoaskfor Personally Yourswhen you reserve in advance. Avistries harderto makeyou feel rightathome in Europe. Startingwith lowSuperValue Rateson a >^ widevarietyofcars. And yourveryown AVIS personalized itinerary Nowonderwe're Europe's largestcarrental company. Call yourtravel consultant, orAvisat 1-800-331-2112. So easy Avis. PersonallyYoursisavailableinselectedEuropeancountries Advancerequestrequired.Askfordetails, c 1986AvisRentACarSystem.Inc.Avis" — FOREWORD ScandinaviaisanunusualpartofEurope. Itisasmallgroupofnations, withinterdependenthistories,manyelementsofsocietyandbackgroundin common,andyeteachfiercelyproudofitsownnationalidentity;asortof miniUnitedNations. Itisalsoaregionwhichoffersperhapsthewidestva- rietyofholidayopportunitiesinEurope,rangingfromthesophisticationof suchcapitalsasCopenhagenandStockholm,throughthecalmserenityof clear, ice-blue waters, unpopulated forests and unspoiled countryside to theadventureofthefarnortherntractsoftheArcticCircle.Allthiswiththe genuinefriendlinessandhospitalityofthepeoplethemselvesintothebar- gain. Butperhaps "bargain" isnotquitetherightword. IfScandinaviadoes haveadrawbackasavacationdestination,itisthatitisunquestionablyan expensiveregion.Thisinitselfcanbetakenasacomplimenttotheindus- triousnessandconsequentprosperityoftheScandinavians.Theircountries areamongthemostaffluentintheworld, andlivingstandards,andthere- foreofcoursethecostofliving, arecorrespondinglyhigh. Moreover, the Scandinavia—nsallenjoyremarkablyc—omprehensivewelfarebenefits, and this in turn admirable though it is pushes up the cost of living still furtherbydintofvery muchhigher-than-averagetaxesonalmostall ser- vicesandgoods. Butall—neednotbegloom. Theparticularplea—suresofScandinaviaare nearlyall withtheexceptionofhercapitalcities—tobefoundinthegreat outdoors. Theopportunitiesforopenairholidays farmvacat—ions(raised toafinearthere), riding, camping, fishing, sailing, canoeing areabso- lutelysecondtonone;andall,bytheirverynature,areofcourseessentially inexpensive. Moreover, the very industriousness that has raised Scan- dinaviato herpresent lofty place on the world's pecking order, also en- suresthatalltheseactivitiesareexcellently-organizedandsuperbly-run. Thereareotherplusmarkstoo. Scandinaviaiseasytoreachandeasyto travelaroundin.Thequalityofhotels,eventhoseinthedepthsofthecoun- try, isalmostalwayshig—h. Forthosewhodowanttospendtimeinoneor moreofthecapitalcities andtherearecompellingreasonsfordoingso thereareawholehostoftravelbargains,museumentrycardsandinexpen- sive hotel and restaurant deals. And ofcourse, the cities themselves, as wellasbeingamongEurope'smostorderly,areuniformlyelegant,urbane and charming. And whereveryou go in Scandinavia,—there is the added bonusofknowingthatEnglishwillnotonlybespoken itwillbespoken excellently, nosmallreliefwhenyouconsiderthetortuositiesofFinnish. Allinall, it'shardtothinkofreasonsnottogo. We are indebted once again to the Directors ofthe Scandinavian Na- tionalTouristOfficesinLondonfortheirgenerouscooperation;specific- allytoBorisTaimitarhaoftheFinnishTouristBoardandtoPhyllisChap- man; to Barbro Hunter of the Swedish National Tourist Office; to Jarl vii . . FOREWORD via Boye-M0lleroftheDanishTouristBoard;toKnutSj0vorroftheNorwe- gianTouristBoard;andtoJohannSigurdssonoftheIcelandicTouristIn- formationBureau. Wewouldespeciallyliketoacknowledgethehardworkandhelpfulin- terestofourteamofAreaEditors, SylvieNickels,PhilipRay,PennyVis- man, KristinHelgaandZenaSt0p, withoutwhomthiseditionwouldnot havebeenpossible. Allpricesquotedinthisguidearebasedonthoseavailabletousatthe timeofwriting,mid-1986. Giventheunpredictabilityofsuchinconstants as rates ofinflation andexchangerates, it is inevitable thatchangeswill havetakenplacebythetimethisbookbecomesavailable.Wetrust,there- fore, thatyouwilltakepricesquotedasindicatorsonly, andwilldouble- checktobesureofthelatestfigures Similarly,besuretocheckallopeningtimesofmuseumsandgalleries on the spot. Wehave foundthatsuch times are liabletochange with no noticeatall,duetostaffillness,strikes,tires,ActsofGod,andahundred otherreasons,andyoucouldeasilymakeatriponlytofindalockeddoor. Whenahotelclosesorarestaurantproducesaninferiormeal,youmay questionourrecommendation.Letusknow,andwewillinvestigatethees- tablishmentandthecomplaint. Wewelcomeyourletters, whichwillhelp uspinpointtroublespots. Ouraddressessare: In the US: Fodor's Travel Guides, 2 Park Ave., New York, N.Y. 10016. IntheUK: Fodor'sTravelGuides, 9-10MarketPlace, LondonW.1