FIGURE DRAWING FOR ARTISTS Making Every Mark Count ST EVE HUST O N Contents INTRODUCTION: GETTING COMFORTABLE WITH YOUR MATERIALS part one: THE ELEMENTS OF DRAWING CHAPTER 1: STRUCTURE CHAPTER 2: BASIC GESTURE CHAPTER 3: ADVANCING THE IDEA OF GESTURE CHAPTER 4: PERSPECTIVE CHAPTER 5: THE LAWS OF LIGHT part two: BREAKING DOWN THE HUMAN BODY CHAPTER 6: THE HUMAN BODY: AN OVERVIEW OF BASIC FORMS CHAPTER 7: THE HEAD CHAPTER 8: THE TORSO CHAPTER 9: THE ARMS AND HANDS CHAPTER 10: THE LEGS AND FEET CHAPTER 11: FINISHING DETAILS: LIGHT AND SHADOWS CONCLUSION: FIVE MINUTES ABOUT THE AUTHOR ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INTRODUCTION GETTING COMFORTABLE WITH YOUR MATERIALS What is art? It could take this whole book to answer that question. In fact, it could take a whole library—and does. Critics and theorists continuously add to the canon exploring and explaining art. Their essays are thought provoking in many ways, but their theories don’t turn us into better artists. Their theories don’t coax the pencil into making better marks. Karen, c. 2001, by Steve Huston. Charcoal drawing of a reclining female figure. Art Is an Idea I love drawing, always have—so, I chose it as a career. That made the whole “what is art” thing an important issue for me. I needed an answer that made my thumbnail sketches, life studies, comps, and finishes excellent. And more, I needed an answer that led me toward a process that spoke with one voice, one vision—one style. Art criticism helped me, but not in that pursuit. So, I did what any self-serving, creative type would do: I made up an answer that would. I didn’t care whether my answer held up to the rigors of critical thinking. In fact, it doesn’t. I’m here to tell you what I’m offering is pure make-believe. And I believe that’s exactly why it works. Fantasy, myth, make-believe: none is true for the head. But, they are all true for the heart—and the heart is where art thrives. Art is not designed to convince the rational mind. Science handles that. Art, at its most powerful, appeals to the emotions, as mythology does. And mythology has only two requirements: 1. No matter how fantastic the world or worldview is, it needs to be absolutely consistent. Only then, will the head relax and let the heart take control. 2. The hero (and audience) takes a journey that shows the world works through some secret, simple truth. A truth such as it’s sometimes an upside-down, absurd place we live in, or magic hides in plain sight, or, even, there’s no place like home. Make-believe truths like these are important—critical, really. They act as emotional road maps, helping us navigate our messy day-to-day affairs. Adults need them in some ways more than children do. The best road maps show us how to become the hero of our own lives. After all, even switching jobs or starting a new hobby is a real adventure. Right this moment, you’re reading a make-believe story for adults. You’re nearly to the part about the secret truth—two, actually. As the pages turn, you’ll read that the world of drawing, though it presents ogre-size problems, is a far simpler place than you suspected. Simple doesn’t mean easy, though. Where’s the adventure in easy? This yarn says the craft of drawing the human body succeeds through only two ideas (here are two of the secret truths): gesture and structure. It says these two ideas work for the biggest parts of your drawing, and for the smallest. You’ll read about things like the eye socket is a whistle notch, the arm is a cleverly curved tube, the many parts of the body are connected through invisible design lines—these are the designs of life. These are all lies as far as the scientist is concerned—and yet, I bet you’ll see that they ring true. And they’ll allow you to draw with a vision and control you can’t get any other way. My promise to you is this: If you’re willing to wear out a few pencils, this book can help you navigate the difficult landscape of the drawn figure. The last truth I’ll share for now is that I didn’t make any of this up. The Old Masters did. We’ve been staring at these heartfelt truths for countless generations, but for the last several we simply haven’t realized it. Great art with its great stylistic differences has been telling this tale since the beginning. To the Old Masters, it was common knowledge. It’s just been forgotten. What a gift these two fundamental ideas—structure and gesture—in all their incarnations, give us through the greatest voices in history. Art, then, is really just another language. Just as the words express concepts, the lines and tones artists make do the same. This book exists so we’ll know what we’re talking about. With practice, a lot of practice, you can begin telling your own story. Start thinking of the frame around your artwork as a window into your world. The marks you make explain the rules of that world. They had better be consistent. SO, HOW TO DO THAT? Drawing the human body is not easy. We need to approach it carefully. The premise for this book, and for my entire career as an artist and teacher, is that the drawing process reduces to those two fundamental ideas—gesture and structure. To make sense of them, then, we need to plumb them systematically and deeply. Keep in mind, structure and gesture are, in a sense, two sides of the same coin. If they don’t work together, they don’t work. I will begin this exploration by first explaining, and demonstrating, structure at its most basic level and follow with an equally accessible exploration of gesture. Then, we’ll dig a little deeper into structure, and then deeper into gesture, and so on. This is a method that can take you from the simplest quick sketch to the most finished of renderings and make them both ring true—but only if you learn it step by step. This method, in one way or another, is the method of the Old Masters. Somewhere along the way, it became arcane and mysterious. I don’t believe it should be. That’s why I wrote this book. That’s the reason I think these ideas (which are not my ideas) are wonderful, beautiful, and, most of all, useful. There are certain immutable truths in great works of art. If you know what to look for, you can see them in the masterpieces of every great art movement. You see those truths play out in various ways in movements such as Cubism and Post-Impressionism and, likewise, in many of the modernist talents of today. What I want to give you is a chance to achieve your potential, to master your craft, and to find your voice. This planet needs more creative voices. So, instead of being intimidated into inaction, let’s break free and express ourselves. Let’s learn to speak eloquently in the language of structure and gesture. With that in mind, turn the page, dip your toes into art’s deep waters, and wade toward its shining distant shore—and don’t worry. I have the life preserver right here. Standing Nude, 1998, by Steve Huston. Alphacolor and Conté chalk on Strathmore, Bristol finish. Sara, 1998, by Steve Huston. Alphacolor and Conté chalk on Strathmore, Bristol finish. Making Art a Ritual The art-making process is tied to ritual, and that repetition puts you in the correct mind- set. There are endless materials from which to choose. I’ll give you a few of my favorites, but, every so often, grab a new pen or pencil to try out. Test new papers. Stand rather than sit. Art is like alchemy. The alchemist attempts to make something precious from the mundane— artists, too. Ritual was all-important in alchemy—the process was connected intimately to the materials used. That’s true for any spiritual or creative endeavor. You need to develop your own ritual for making art. Clean the studio or make it messy; sharpen your pencils with a razor blade or crumble up your pastel, smear it on with your fingers, and erase it mostly away. Experiment with the process until you have a practice that works for you. That also includes the process I demonstrate in this book. But my process won’t work for you unless you chop it up, mix it around, throw out some things, and add some things in; in other words, it won’t work for you until you make it your own. Where to Work? If you don’t have a studio with twenty-foot ceilings, northern-facing windows, and a personal assistant to sharpen your pencils, use the corner of a bedroom or sit at the dining table. You can stand at an easel. You can sit at an easel. You can buy a tilting drafting table or have a 3/8-inch-thick (1 cm) piece of plywood or 1/4-inch-thick (0.6 cm) piece of Masonite cut to about 20 x 26 inches (51 x 66 cm) long and grab a couple of alligator clamps. Lay the bottom edge across your lap and lean the board against the edge of a dining table. If that’s a little low, use a kitchen counter. You’re ready to work. I used to have to fall backward from my canvasback chair onto my bed to get up from my workstation. You could spend a fortune on the perfect setup, but, really, you don’t need many resources to be an artist. Start simply. Start cheaply. You can always ease into massive debt later. There’s no hurry. Materials and Tools Every material has its limitations. Don’t try to get deep darks from a hard pencil. Don’t do a miniature rendering with a square stick of charcoal. Take the time to experiment and learn what your materials can do. Here are the basic tools and materials you’ll need. 1. CarbOthello Pencils. I use pencils in earth-tone colors. Why? A brightly colored pencil doesn’t work well for shading. Shadow is the absence of light. Bright colors suggest light. The two don’t mix. Other pencil brands I like are General, Conté à Paris, Faber-Castell, and Prismacolor. These last two are slightly waxy and won’t work well on newsprint. Paper: Copy paper (any bond), newsprint, vellum, and marker paper are great. Also, I like toned paper in light to middle values and earth tones for the same reason as stated previously. I like Strathmore 500 series, Ingres, and Canson brands. Canson has the heaviest texture and, so, is a little harder to work with. You also want something with minimal tooth to it. It’s much harder to do any kind of rendering or detail while fighting a rough-textured paper. 2. Conté à Paris sticks in H, HB, and 2B. Note that 2B is a softer chalk and gives you deeper darks, but it’s also messier. H and HB are harder, but you lose the deeper values. Paper: You can use all of the preceding papers listed as well as Strathmore, Bristol finish, 1-ply and up, and illustration sheets, but not plate or hot press. These have no tooth to hold the chalk, and the pigment will come right off. Or use any higher-quality, acid-free paper designed for drawing. Again, you want minimal texture. 3. Alphacolor. Really, any brand of pastels will do. Black and earth tones work for drawing. And, of course, you can work in full color for “dry painting” pastel work. Use the better brands for painting and the cheaper for drawing. Alphacolor are big, clunky, and not designed for small-scale work or fine detail. I did this book’s cover drawing using Strathmore Bristol paper and Alphacolor for the deep darks. I used Conté chalk and a stump for the fine line and detail. Paper: You can use all of the preceding papers listed. Canson, with its toothiness, is great for holding more pigment. Pastels build up quickly. You’ll find the chalks blow away with a sneeze if you use a smooth stock. 4. Ballpoint pen, any cheap pen, or fountain pen with brown or black ink (make sure you use fountain pen ink). Pens are a favorite of mine for sketchbooks. I like not being able to erase. I like hatching in the value. It suggests brushstrokes to me for when I switch to paint. Paper: You can use all of the preceding papers listed and almost anything you can think of, such as the back of an envelope or copy paper. I use acid-free scrapbook paper a lot. It has a cardstock thickness, and I can do little painted studies in gouache alongside the ink sketches. 5. Graphite pencils. Any of about 3 million brands are fine. I like H or HB for hardness. You won’t get charcoal darks out of it: you need 4B to 6B for that. But graphite gets a little glossy when it gets dark. I use it for under-drawing for gouache or watercolor paintings or to lay in an ink drawing. Mainly, I use it when I want a sensitive technique. It does delicate and detail like no other tool. One of the best ways to learn to vary your paint strokes is by using pen and ink. Study for Draw, c. 2004, by Steve Huston. Alphacolor and Conté chalk on Strathmore, Bristol finish. Study for Caryatid, c. 1998, by Steve Huston. Alphacolor on Strathmore, Bristol finish. 6. Craft knife, sharp pocketknife, or one-sided razor blade. You need something to sharpen your charcoal pencils with—and no, not a manufactured electric sharpener. I’ll show you how the sharpened pencil should look here. 7. Kneaded eraser and hard eraser. Either will work, but I like the kneaded eraser because it is similar to putty—you can shape it to get into tight areas. It is soft and won’t take your paper back to white if there is a lot of pigment down. That’s what hard erasers are for. You can even use electric erasers to buff away stubborn stains. And, yes, all the pigments discussed will stain your paper. Actually, applying pigment can damage the paper fibers. Once that happens, you may be stuck with it. 8. Sandpaper or a sanding pad. You can buy little sanding pads from the art store. I use sandpaper from the hardware store. It sharpens your pencils to a finer point than just using a knife. I sand down a little bit of an Alphacolor stick to load pigment onto my stump. 9. Stumps. These cylindrical drawing tools, made of tightly rolled paper in a pencil shape, are used to blend or smudge marks. 10. Markers. Choose a couple of grays to shade over your pen drawings: that’s what auto designers and entertainment designers use. The thing with markers is you can start with a light gray and keep marking down a new layer over the old to get darker and darker. It’s a great way to ease into the correct values. 11. Touch display computer. I use one for my digital teaching at New Masters Academy in California. I used a Wacom Touch for most of this book and Photoshop and SketchBook Pro for software. They mimic myriad tools. A study from my Shadow Boxing series. Waterman Paris fountain pen, very fine nib, on oatmeal-colored, acid-free scrapbook paper. The Pencil Mark Hold the pencil as if you’re writing a letter but relax your fingers. Don’t pinch them back in a tight grip. A relaxed grip is so important because you want to make sweeping strokes like an orchestra conductor, meaning from your shoulder and not your wrist or finger joints. Your line quality will be nervous and scratchy if your draw from your fingers. Practice this as you would a tennis stroke. A hard, crisp line and a thick, soft line—these are the only two marks you need. Now, for the gradation. The zigzag technique will give you a gradation in any medium you care to use. Hard edges and soft edges—master those and you’ve mastered your medium. Try these new strokes: Sketch a household item—a coffee cup, screwdriver, pencil, or a slice of bread. Learn to draw the shapes you see. Can you draw tubes, boxes, and balls from your head? We’re going to practice a lot of that in the next chapter. You want a catalog of simple shapes to rely on as you sketch—the bigger the mental catalog, the better. That’s all you need to know to get started, so let’s! Leave approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm) of charcoal or lead exposed. Some artists prefer more. I tend to break them if they get longer. You want the wood carved back at a tapered angle. This allows you to make the marks you need. I tend to use the pencil- across-the-palm grip (see right).