f i g h e a v e n 70 Recipes for the World’s Most Luscious Fruit m a r i e s i m m o n s Thank you John, for moving me to fig heaven contents introduction 1 Appetizers 15 Sandwiches, Breads, and Salads 37 Main Courses and Side Dishes 61 Sweets 97 Preserving Fresh Figs 149 fig sources 155 index 157 acknowledgments 167 Copyright 169 About the Publisher 170 introduction I moved from Brooklyn, New York, to Richmond, California, five years ago. At first I missed my family and friends.I still miss them,but not as much as I used to.I think it’s be- cause of the figs. I have never seen so many figs in one place in my life.Big mounds of them appear at our local farmers’market in June,and again in August through September—and,if the weather remains warm, into November. Plump greenish-yellow figs, small purplish-black ones, and shapely chartreuse figs,their rounded cheeks tinted with a blush of purple.Figs in more dif- ferent sizes and shapes than I ever imagined,all mixed together.I am amazed that the farm- ers treat what I consider precious cargo with such nonchalance. I stand back and watch early-morning market devotees gather tightly around the tables of figs.One hand after another gently selects a fig,cups it softly,and contemplates its worth. It either goes into the bag with the other selections or is gingerly returned to the pile.I watch, waiting eagerly for a space to clear so I can take part in this ritual. On weekday mornings the market is not as busy as is it on Saturdays. I use this quiet time to quiz the farmers about varieties, taste, and ripeness. I am puzzled as to why some farmers don’t sort the figs by variety and some do. One farmer explains that his orchard contains fig trees of different varieties,and putting them in one flat is easier for the pickers. One farmer, sensitive to my enthusiasm, takes the time to explain the different varieties to me and patiently answers my questions. But it is his demonstration of ripeness that leaves me weak in the knees. Carefully he picks up a fig and turns it over. “Here,” he says, “is a perfectly ripe fig.”There is a single teardrop of syrup oozing from its blossom end.(This,I later learned, is called the “eye” of the fig.) I am uncharacteristically speechless. Then he lifts another fig from the pile and offers it to me.It sits on my outstretched hand.It is warm from the sun and so heavy with sugar that its sides are literally bursting with rivulets of syrup. Right then and there I have an epiphany:I’m in fig heaven. • • • My association of figs and heaven isn’t all that far off the mark.“If I should wish a fruit brought to paradise, it would certainly be the fig,” said the prophet Mohammed. In the book of Genesis, Adam and Eve stroll about the Garden of Eden, eat the forbidden fruit, and, self-conscious of their nakedness, “sewed fig leaves together, and made themselves aprons.” Much has been written about the historical significance of the fig.Figs are mentioned re- peatedly in the Bible and throughout early history.Thought to be native to Asia Minor and western Asia, the fig migrated throughout the Middle East and the Mediterranean region, where it thrived.The early Egyptians,who ate figs both fresh and dried,buried baskets of figs alongside their dead to provide sustenance in the hereafter. Cleopatra, the Egyptian wife of Julius Caesar and Marc Antony’s mistress,is said to have committed suicide by keeping a live asp hidden in a basket of figs and allowing it to bite her,presumably as she,with eyes turned toward the heavens,savored her favorite fruit. To sink your teeth into a fig’s soft,sweet,succulent center is one of the most sensually de- ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] “Prosciutto di Parma,eaten with...fresh figs,must be the most perfect hors d’oeuvre ever invented.” —A Book of Mediterranean Food, by Elizabeth David ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] 2 fig heaven lectable of experiences.The allure is in both its smooth texture and its sweet taste.The fig has the highest sugar content of all fruits and was used in ancient times as both a staple food and a sweetener. It was prized for its medicinal properties and was eaten as a training food by Greek athletes. The early Romans fed their hogs figs to fatten them up and to sweeten their meat and liv- ers.They fed geese figs,too,to fatten their livers for an early version of foie gras.In De Re Co- quinaria, Apicius, the first-century Roman cook, includes a recipe for ham boiled with “25 dried figs.”Today ham and figs remains a classic combination that has survived 2,000 years of cooks and gourmands. Figs and Love Legend has it that Bacchus, the infamous Roman and Greek god of wine and revelry (the Greeks called him Dionysus),celebrated the first fruits of the fig harvest with wild parties and orgies where the guests wore crowns of fig leaves and garlands of dried figs. For both the Greeks and the Romans,however,the fig was revered.The fruit was a metaphor for fertility, and it represented both male and female sexuality. The fig was, and still is, considered by some to be an aphrodisiac and is often associated with erotic and romantic love. ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] The fig is a very secretive fruit. As you see it standing growing,you feel at once it is symbolic: And it seems male. But when you come to know it better,you agree with the Romans,it is female. —From “Figs,” by D. H. Lawrence ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]] introduction 3 Fig Botany and Cultivation The fruit-bearing fig tree, Ficus carica, belongs to the enormous mulberry family, Moraceae. It’s the only member of the family that is cultivated for its fruit. Unique in the world of botany,the fig tree,unlike other fruit-bearing trees,does not burst into glorious blossoms be- fore the fruit forms. Instead, the fig tree produces small hard green balls (called peduncles) that look like green olives;each peduncle grows into a pouch called the syconium.The inte- rior of the syconium is lined with hundreds of tiny flowers,which will develop into drupelets. When we cut into a ripe fig,these minute flowers make up what we call the fig’s pulp or soft center.Although considered a fruit,the fig is actually a flower that is inverted into itself. Fig trees grow throughout the world in various shapes and sizes.There are hundreds of varieties, but not all are fruit-bearing. The banyan tree of eastern Asia, called the “world tree”because its tall branches are said to link earth to heaven,and the bodhi tree,known as the “tree of enlightenment” because it’s where Buddha sat and studied, are both enormous fig trees.Other fig trees grow low to the ground like bushes or into twisted vinelike plants that wrap themselves around everything in sight.Trees in commercial orchards are pruned low so that the fruit is easy to harvest.While fig trees thrive best in warm climates,they do grow in some of the most unlikely locations. A few generations back,some Italian immigrants brought fig tree cuttings with them to America.In cities such as Boston and Chicago,they lovingly planted their cuttings in a pro- tected place in their gardens—perhaps against a wall with a southern exposure—to keep them warm.Or the cutting was planted in a large pot on casters,making it easy to move the tree inside during the freezing winters. In Carroll Gardens,in Brooklyn,New York,my friend Tony has one of these “imported” trees.His grandfather brought their family’s fig tree to Brooklyn from a small town in Sicily more than sixty years ago.Today the tree is more than twenty feet tall and bears such copi- ous amounts of fruit that Tony gives it away all summer. Tony remembers his grandfather wrapping the tree in blankets in the winter.Once,when he was a kid,Tony asked him,“Why the blankets?”His grandfather said,“Because the tree thinks it’s still in Sicily.” The Spanish first brought figs to Florida in the late 1500s,and records show that in 1787 Thomas Jefferson, then United States Minister to France, ordered cuttings sent to Monti- cello,in Virginia.Although fig trees were planted throughout the South and continue to grow in backyards today,a commercial crop was never developed there. 4 fig heaven