FAS H10 r J ORIENTALISM DRESS.TEXTILESANDCULTUREFROM THE 17THTOTHE21STCENTURV ADAM GECZY Fashion and Orientalism Fashion and Orientalism Dress, Textiles and Culture from the 17th to the 21st Century Adam Geczy LONDON • NEW DELHI • NEW YORK • SYDNEY Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square 175 Fifth Avenue London New York WC1B 3DP NY 10010 UK USA www.bloomsbury.com First published 2013 © Adam Geczy 2013 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. Adam Geczy has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as author of this work. No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury Academic or the author. British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN: 978 1 84788 600 2 (Cloth) 978 1 84788 599 9 (Paper) e-ISBN 978 0 85785 427 8 (epub) 978 0 85785 426 1 (ePDF) Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. To my son Marcel; to his imagination and venturesome spirit Contents List of Illustrations xi Introduction 1 1 Early Orientalism and the Barbaresque 15 Luxury Textiles and the Beginnings of the Silk Trade 17 Venice 21 Textiles in Western Europe 24 Cotton and Chintz 25 Charles II and the Origins of the Vest 31 Chinoiserie and Orientalism in Louis XIV’s France 34 Lachinage and the Visit of the Siamese Ambassadors in France 37 2 1690–1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania 41 Textiles 44 Banyans and Fans 48 Chinoiserie Design and Art 57 Masquerade 59 Theatre and Music 61 Institutionalizing Turquerie 63 Mary Montagu and the Special Case of Masquerade 67 Late-eighteenth Century and the Revolution 72 Egyptomania 80 Military Costume and Weaponry 82 3 1815–1871: Turkophilia, Afromania and the Indes 85 Bohemianism 91 Travellers, Adventurers and Exiles 96 Cashmere Shawls 100 Paisley 105 British Orientalist Textiles and Design after 1851 106 – vii – viii CONTENTS Arthur Lazenby Liberty 108 Other Women’s Fashions before Couture 110 4 1868–1944: The Japoniste Revolution, the Deorientalizing of the Orient and the Birth of Couture 114 Japonism and the Kimono 116 Deorientalizing Japan 124 Deorientalizing Turkey 129 Couture, Art and Costume: From Poiret to the Ballets Russes 136 Paquin 147 Fortuny 148 The Interwar Years: The Orient in Early Film 150 5 1944–2011: Postwar Revivalism and Transorientalism 154 Hippies and Counterculture in the 1960s and 1970s 159 Perfume 164 The New Japanese Revolution in French Couture 168 Postmodern and Contemporary Couture 174 Reorienting and Self-orientalizing the Orient 182 The Burqa Wars 190 Conclusion: The Revenge of China 197 Notes 201 Bibliography 227 Index 241 Figure 1 Maurice Guibert, Henri Toulouse-Lautrec in Japanese Samurai Garb, c. 1892, vintage albumen proof print © Richard and Ellen Sandor Family Collection.