DOCUMENT RESUME RC 020 922 ED 404 082 Attarian, Aram AUTHOR Re-Establishing a Clean Climbing Ethic. TITLE PUB DATE 96 8p.; In: Proceedings of the 1995 International NOTE Conference on Outdoor Recreation and Education; see RC 020 917. Speeches/Conference Information Analyses (070) PUB TYPE Papers (150) MFO1 /PCO1 Plus Postage. EDRS PRICE Adventure Education; *Consciousness Raising; DESCRIPTORS *Conservation (Environment); *Conservation Education; *Educational Strategies; Land. Use; Natural Resources; Role Models *Environmental Ethic; Environmental Impact; *Rock IDENTIFIERS Climbing ABSTRACT This paper addresses environmental impact issues associated with rock climbing and stresses the importance of reestablishing .a clean climbing ethic through climber education and ethical considerations. The adventure sport of rock climbing has grown considerably over the last decade: it is estimated that there are currently over 200,000 rock climbers in the United States. To address the potential overuse and abuse of natural resources due to rock climbing, land managers are scrutinizing climbing practices and in some areas implementing policies that compromise the future of rock climbing. Common impacts of rock climbing include soil compaction and erosion, development of multiple trails, damage to vegetation, improper disposal of human waste, disturbances to wildlife, and the use of equipment that visually damages sites. The goal of teaching clean climbing strategies is to help participants recognize the implications of their climbing experience, encourage individuals to act responsibly by emphasizing the importance of clean climbing, and help participants understand the need to establish a set of personal environmental standards. Strategies for teaching clean climbing techniques include role modeling of environmentally sound practices, hands-on learning of minimum impact techniques, use of unplanned opportunities or circumstances to reinforce clean climbing practices, and activities of service to the climbing environment such as climbing area clean-ups, trail maintenance projects, and participation in local climbing coalitions. Includes a table describing techniques and practices that minimize climber-related impacts. (Contains 15 references.) (LP) *********************************************************************** * * Reproductions supplied by EDRS are the best that can be made * * from the original document. *********************************************************************** Ethic Re-Establishing a Clean Climbing By "PERMISSION TO REPRODUCE THIS U.S. DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION MATERIAL HAS BEEN GRANTED BY Office of Educational Research / and Improvement EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES INFORMATION Aram Attarian, Ph.D. CENTER (ER/0 Associate Professor This document has been reproduced as received from the person or organization North Carolina State University originating it RON WATTERS O Minor changes have been made to Department of Physical Education improve reproduction quality. PO Box 8111 TO THE EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES Points of view or opniona stated in this docu- 27695-8111 Raleigh, NC INFORMATION CENTER (ERIC)... ment do not necessariiy represent official OERI position or policy. Abstract issues currently being faced by the This paper focuses on the impact Emphasis is placed on re-establishing a adventure sport of rock climbing. and variety of strategies, climber education, clean climbing ethic through a ethical considerations. Introduction considerably over the The adventure sport of rock climbing has grown there are over 200,000 The American Alpine Club estimates that last decade. climb 10 days or more each year rock climbers in the United States who climbing According to Davidson (1992) "virtually every (Williamson, 1992). increase in climber visitation as confirmed area has experienced a tremendous For example, climbing routes (pg. 50). by land managers across the country" in 1970 to over 3,000 in 1992 in Yosemite have increased from 500 routes (Marshall, 1992)! economic factors the growth and In addition to various social and distinct eras (Figure 1.). popularity of rock climbing can be traced to four focused on the introduction of modern The first era (1930-1960), Exploration, development of technical rock climbing techniques, first ascents, the The Environmental movement (1960-1970s) equipment, and big wall climbing. climbing; climbing and leaving no ushered in the concept and practice of clean hexcentrics Protection devices including stoppers and trace of one's ascent. Equipment, and the Lowe Cam (the first SLCD) were introduced by Chouinard Innovation Exploration was followed by a period of appeared on the market. Jardine, and During this era, the Friend was developed by Ray (1970-1980s). The mid 1980s-1990s witnessed a climbing "sticky" boot rubber was introduced. Artificial accessible. Technology made the sport more visible and Explosion. portable battery operated climbing walls, sport climbing, and the use of opening areas which until a few drills have introduced climbing to the masses unclimbable. years ago were thought to be though the climbing community As we enter the 21st century it seems as introducing new Climbers are again exploring new areas, has come full circle. This time pioneers of the sport. equipment and technology much like the early confronted with crowded climbing areas, around however, climbers are being liability issues, and image conflicts with other visitors, access and problems. However, with the unregulated, Until recently, the sport has gone these areas a greater demand is being increasing number of climbers visiting As a result, the potential for environmental placed on the climbing resource. recreation experience has become more visible. damage and degradation of the How to integrate the growth of climbing This has led to our present dilemma: and administering public and private with the requirements of preserving 1990) described this management Pritchard (in Russ, Grafke, & Vaske, lands. concern: 97 2 EST COPY AVAILABLE how to "The challenge facing most park managers today is no longer quality visitor attract visitors, but how to preserve park resources and Visitor overuse and abuse of this nation's natural experiences and cultural heritage has become one of the most widespread land management concerns" (pg. iii). The Evolution of Modern Rock Climbing Figure 1. 1930-1990 HIGH EXPLOSION I 1980 - 1990s M INNOVATION 1970 - 1980s A ENVIRONMENT 1960 - 1970s C T EXPLORATION 1930 - 1960s S LOW To address these concerns, land managers throughout the country are currently in the process of scrutinizing climbing practices and in some areas implementing policies that may compromise the future of rock climbing With all of these concerns; impending regulations, and (Davidson, 1992). problems; it's time to re-establish a new clean climbing ethic, one that embraces the historical roots of the sport; adventure, challenge, The climbing independence, and respect for the vertical environment. community needs to become more "in tune" with the environment, become stewards We need to educate and ourselves and others of the land and take care of it. on how to climb cleanly, minimize our impact and leave no trace. . . . The Impacts and Resource managers nationwide have identified numerous environmental Environmental impacts are those social impacts related to climbing activity. impacts that change or alter the physical or biological characteristics of an due to area, whereas social impacts result in a negative recreation experience 3 98 Common (Hendee, Stankey, & Lucas, 1990). the behavior or conduct of others multiple trails, and erosion, development of impacts include soil compaction disposal of human and off the rock face, improper damage to vegetation both on Visual impacts to the rock and its wildlife. waste, and disturbances to and (bolts), potential damage to historical environs, the use of fixed anchors visitors have negative recreation experiences by other cultural sites, and impacts are It should be noted that these also been identified as concerns. and not on empirical evidence based on observations by resource managers (Attarian, 1992). Clean Climbing placing protection that doesn't Clean climbing should be more than just stewardship and appreciation damage the rock; it's an idea that promotes Clean climbing environment. towards the vertical world and the surrounding natural environment and should reflect concern for both the social and responsible climbing. introduce practices and techniques that encourage In the 1972 Chouinard idea. The concept of clean climbing is not a new introduced the idea of clean Equipment catalog, Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost This new approach to climbing was in response to climbing for the first time. techniques, and improvement in the increase in climbing activity, advances in compromise the The combination of these variables was beginning to equipment. sport was Chouinard and Frost recognized the new direction that the sport. heading and noted: style of technical rock "Armed with evermore gadgetry and techniques the elements vital to climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that the of the mountain the climbing experience; adventure and appreciation We believe the only way to environment are being submerged. . . . ourselves and future generations is ensure the climbing experience for adventure inherent in the to preserve the vertical wilderness and the and Really the only insurance to guarantee this adventure experience. moral restraint and individual maintain it is exercise of responsibility" (pg. 1). initiated by the Also during the 1970s the Leave No Trace program (LNT) was backcountry use and the Forest Service in response to the popularity of This program has since been revitalized and impacts associated with it. Outdoor Leadership School reintroduced on a more visible scale by the National LNT is based on six (NOLS) and Federal land management agencies (1993). travel on durable (1) plan ahead and prepare; (2) camp and principles: dispose of what you can't surfaces; (3) pact it in , pack it out; (4) properly impact from leave what you find; and (6) minimize use and pack out; (5) others unique to the Clean climbing embraces these principles and fires. Each of these practices have been introduced by sport of rock climbing. organizations across the climbers, land managers, and grass root climbing recreation experience (Table 1.). country to minimize impacts and enhance the Strategies Simpson (1993) suggested When introducing minimal impact techniques, be explained to participants that the reasons for each technique or practice Once skills have been taught, in order to heighten the chance for compliance. participants allowing them the decision-making should be relinquished to the principles and practices opportunity to gain a better understanding of the introduced. used to help teach and reinforce the A variety of strategies can be To meet these objectives, the principles and practices of clean climbing. 99 4 the (1) help participants recognize threefold: instructor or leader's job is each their climbing experience, (2) encourage broader implications of clean emphasizing to them the importance of individual to act responsibly by personal the need to establish a set of climbing, and (3) help them understand and later in life (Simpson, 1993; Drury environmental standards they can use role include: The following approaches to this process Bonney, 1992). and service. modeling, education, teachable moments, Techniques and Practices to Minimize Table 1. Climber Related Impacts Technique/Practice Impact descend Use resistant surfaces to access or Soil/Vegetation climbs Use existing trails to access areas Shortcutting causes erosion possible Avoid damage to vegetation whenever anchors Use webbing around trees for rappel Self-regulation among climbers Fixed Protection Limit the placement of bolts to specific areas Peer-review process re: new routes Paint bolts. to match rock color Ban or limit portable electric drills Prohibit or minimize use Chalk Use Encourage earth tone colored chalks Continue use with education Volunteer clean-up of rock surfaces Clean route on rappel Respect seasonal closures Wildlife avoid Be aware of critical habitats and Dispose waste properly Waste Disposal disposal Use containers (bags) for waste (pack it out) Use existing latrines/privies Pay attention to local regulations "cathole" Learn how to construct and use a belay and Use natural colored webbing for Visual Impacts rappel anchors, etc. belay/rappel Install cold shunts for permanent anchors Avoid climbing within 50' of cultural or historical resources Wear earth-tone colored clothing 5 100 1. Role Modeling good role models by Outdoor leaders should present themselves as practices throughout the climbing striving to maintain environmentally sound been shown to be Role modeling by outdoor leaders and guides has experience. changing resource behavior, especially in river an effective way of (Wagstaff & Wilson, 1987; environments, campgrounds, and backpacking areas Roggenbuck, & Watson, 1984). Cockrell, Bange & Roggenbuck, 1984; Oliver, In this climbing environments. Similar behavior may also be effective for leads by explaining the "practice what you preach" approach, the instructor This is participant's awareness. concepts of clean climbing to heighten the appropriate behavior and techniques, followed by the instructor modeling the For instance, using natural colored webbing, and leading through example. regulations, accessing respecting area closures, following local rules and Once students begin to see climbs via trails, or depositing waste properly. change their patterns of and understand the practices presented, they may behavior (Wagar, 1976). Education 2. identified as a successful The use of education and information has been in natural method for minimizing the impacts associated with recreation However, in order for education and environments (Roggenbuck & Ham, 1986). organized and contain a information programs to be effective they must be well for variety of communication techniques to reinforce intended messages; 1987). example, slide and video presentations and ranger contacts (Kascenska, disseminating Outdoor programs and courses can be important venues for clean information and educating aspiring rock climbers on the virtues of teaching Education programs that incorporate a hands on approach to climbing. minimal impact techniques are generally viewed as having the greatest For potential for influencing appropriate behavior (Roggenbuck, 1992). includes example, the rock climbing program at North Carolina State University combination lecture and a unit on minimal impact rock climbing and uses a discuss the slide program to visually identify climber related impacts, climbing implications, management practices, and introduce effective clean This information is reinforced during climing outings where practices. practices. students can implement the appropriate clean climbing Teachable Moments 3. unplanned Outdoor leaders can utilize the occasional occurance of clean climbing opportunities or circumstances to present topics and reinforce These events allow participants to practices when presented with them. For example, your group explore specific issues and meet them head on. above crowded arrives at the base of a climbing area to discover the rockface As a teachable moment, a with climbers with more waiting to get started. the social discussion might ensue on the issues surrounding crowding; what are affect your and environmental impacts involved; how does this encounter this type of climbing experience; or what are some of the ways of reducing encounter? Service 4. environment Engaging in activities that promote service to the climbing outings by encouraging students to can supplement classroom lectures and attitudes developed participate in local projects to reinforce practices and Climbing area clean-ups, trail maintenance earlier in the program or course. special events, or projects, participation in local climbing coalitions, involved and giving involvement in access issues are all ways of getting something back to the vertical environment. Conclusion the provide our participants with As outdoor educators we can knowledgeable climbers and experiences to help them become more give all of us the Participation in our programs can outdoorpersons. Perhaps most of adventure, and challenge, oppportunity for fun, excitement, and shape our offers us a chance to explore all, the climbing experience responsibly environment and ourselves and act attitudes towards the vertical on its behalf. be accepted with the greatest "Rock climbing, as such, should values should be preserved in our enthusiasm; yet I feel that certain complete While it is rarely a case of the contact with the mountains. that the esthetics, we should bear in mind ascendancy of acrobatics over proving ground of strength and mountains are more to us than a mere considered a thrilling means to a Rock climbing should be alert skill. more important end." Ansel Easton Adams, 1932 7 102 References ecological and social impacts An investigation of the (1992). Attarian, A. 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Journal of Interpretation, The evaluation-of litter behavior (1987). Wagstaff, M C. and Wilson, B. E. Journal of Environmental modification in a river environment. 29. (1), 39-44. Education, Outside, pg. 10. The lemming fallacy. (1993, October). Williamson, J. al) ERIC U.S. Department of Education (OERI) Office of Educational Research and Improvement Educational Resources Information Center (ERIC) REPRODUCTION RELEASE (Specific Document) I. DOCUMENT IDENTIFICATION: Title: dui(400recre,i-in:, or\ 17T 5 initrtict-64n,-9 Con-freeice_ 41 eed frIc) s ,04 rrOC anal GotOcc1'i--(11- on enct: kodslef gra lk)ex t4-(AA Author(s): Publication Date: Corporate Source: rte S4-v.st l)n,t Neu, QvStu.trr "..2lcttet3 S-t-dQ 004-00f T>Nira,, II. REPRODUCTION. 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