AT MICFBOFICHE REFERENCE Lll3RARY A project of Volunteers in Asia By: Jaap Kek Published by: TOOL Foundation Sarphatistraat 650 1018 AV Amsterdam The Netherlands Available from: TOOL Foundation Sarphatistraat 650 1018 AV Amsterdam The Netherlands Reproduced with permission. Reproduction of this microfiche document in any form is Subject to the ‘same restrictions as those of the original document. This publication has been financed by the Mukebosch Prior Foundation, The Netherlands. Edited by Evert Rougoor Published and distributed by: r b I cc3 L publications Sarphatistraat650 1018 AV Amsterdam The Netherlands Q 1891 by TOOL Foundation, Amsterdam lSBN9070857200 First ediien 1991 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, by print, photography, microfilm, or any other means without written permission from the publisher. Whilst every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the informdon given in this publication, neither the publisher(s) nor the author(s) can be held responsible for any damage resulting from the application of the described methods. Any liability in this respect is excluded. Environmentally sound leather tanning A course on small-scale techniques and management Jaap Kok T&-J3 II I Ra Transfer of Technology for Development - Amsterdam nta/ly sound h&her lanning is aimed at people in loping countries, starting a small tanning enterprise 0 techniques, this publication discusses p materials. The tools nee and can be locally made. Ki i ‘::base @* nwfts ISBN 90 70857 20 0 Contents f PM&e ..................... .7 1.1 Acknowledgements ................ .7 1.2 Howtousethisbook ................ .7 2 3 4 S&in8 .................... ..14 4.1 Preservation of skins ................ 14 4.2 The drying of skins ................. 16 4.3 Qualiianddefectsofskins ............. 16 5 f8nnhg .................... .20 5.1 The beam house ................. 26 5.2 Thetanyard ................... 26 6 77mjwoductsw88feworkingwHh .......... 23 6.1 Chemistry .................... 23 6.2 Solutions .................... 23 6.3 Vegetabletannin ................. 28 7 hquhy ..................... 32 7.1 Raw materials ................... 32 7.2 Tools and equipment ................ 33 7.3 Themethod .................. .38 8 Pmpat~on ................... 40 8.1 The working place ................. 40 8.2 Stocks ..................... 40 8.3 Preparation of lime liquor .............. 40 8.4 Preparation of tan liquor ............... 41 9 77JOd8#)WOrk . . . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . . 46 Tanning in rholy Mstoiyof leather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 W&gehMe tanning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 18nning in pmtico 9.1 Beam house ................... 46 9.2 Tanyard ..................... 50 9.3 Dyeing of leather ................. 53 70 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 10.6 10.7 10.8 10.9 Finishing .................... 55 Fat liquoring ................... 55 Settingout ................... .56 Drying ..................... 56 Staking .................... .56 Shaving ..................... 58 Glazing .................... .58 Boarding .................... 60 Rounding ................... .60 Selection ................... .6O 17 Jeckson system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 72 Trouble shooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 73 Entironment ................... 67 13.1 Animal life .................... 67 13.2 Vegetation .................... 67 13.3 Wastes ..................... 67 13.4 Workshop cleanness and body protection ........ 68 74 Cost8 and price calcuiation ............. 70 14.1 costs ...................... 70 14.2 Pricing .................... .73 14.3 Example .................... .75 75 What will mske your project successful ........ 78 15.1 Feasibility and viability ............... 78 15.2 Cgancing .................. ..7 9 15.3 Infrastructure ................... 79 76 Miscelleneous .................. 81 16.1 Vegetable tanning materials ............. 81 16.2 Selected literature ................. 82 16.3 Useful addresses ................. 82 This book is based on a tanning course, given by the author to a group of people involved in the Msekhocika village Orientated Development Program in Zambia. The book is aimed at people wanting to start a tanning enterprise, but who find it hard to start with the knowledge they obtained from more theoretical books. Books which probably describe advanced methods of tanning. Methods to be applied on an industrial level in big factories, with machines, chemical products and big investments. l’hii book is meant to be a course and a practical guideline for those who want to tan five or ten goatskins that ten be obtained from the local butcher weekly, with material from around the village and with tools that require a small investment. In this book t!+ word practicel will be more important than the word scientific. However, we give simplified background information on the steps involved in the press of transforming a skin into a piece of leather. The first four chapters discuss the theory. We think the reads: r&s to know a little about the theory to be able to understand the tannin& process. The rest of the book describes tanning in practice. We describe the tanning of goatskins, because they are small and therefore easy to handle. The leather can be used for many purposes. And once someone knows how to make his or her own goat leather, it will not be very diicult to tan other types of skins, since tanning principals are the ail same. In general, this book describes one method of tanning, the one applied in Msekhocika, Zambia. However, there are many ways of tanning and other possibilities are being discussed as well. 1.1 Acknowledgements Special thanks to Malami Cambai, Sang da Costa, Affonso da Silva and the colleagues of Bachil (Guine B&au) for all the knowledge transferred. 1.2 How to use this book Thii book is divided in two parts: T&wing in theory and Tanning in practice. Read 7 the book carefully hefore you act&y start tanning, to get a good idea of what is all invdved in tanning. If you want to start tanning, the ohapters in part Tanning in jo~ctice will bs your guidelk It is very important you make the inquiries described in chapter 7. The&ore this will be the first chapter you will put into practice. Using the results from your inquiry you will have to make some cskulatiolls using chapter 14. At this point you have to decide whether you are able to manage a profitable leather tanning enterprise* From chapter 8 the aspects of vegetable tanning are described, from preparatory actbity, daily work and finishing up to trouble shooting. The last chapters give more and very important information on environmental and econom’lca aspects of vegetable leather tanning. Tanning in theory 2 History of leather Since many, many ages people have used the skins of animals for clothing and footwgar. Since a skin is not very useful when dried - it is hard - the first use of skins was probably after people d&covered that when the skin was smoked, its chmcteMcs changed and it would not ea&ly rot any more. It did not take a long time before people discovered that the use of a solution with animal fat and brains in which the skin was held for some time improved the waterproofness and suppleness of leather. Even nowadays there is still a technique oftanningwhiiisbasedupontheuseoffats. In various regions of the world, different methods for tanning were invented, since condii like climate, vegetation and the availability of minerals were diirent. It is vary likely that vegetable tanning, the way of tanning explained in this book, was invented in Africa The leather produced in this way is recognized as one of the best kinds of leather. We all know the importance of leather as it is useful for shoes, belts, harnesses (for animal traction), strings, furniture, clothing and so on. Methods of leather tanning are: 1 Vegetable tanning This method uses materials from plants like bark and pods. 2 Chrome tanning This method uses chromium-salts. 3 Synthetic tanning This method uses artificially made tannins. 4 other methods like oil tanning or aluminium tanning. In modem tanneries several tanning methods are used together in diirent combinations. 10 Leather is the skin of animals, prepared and conserved in such a way that even after being in wet condition for some time, it will not start rotting and it will keep its qualities like suppleness, strength and resistance to temperature. Simply said: Skin + Tannin = Leather 3 Vegetable tanning As we have seen at the end of the first chapter, we I;an prepare a skin in such a way that it turns into leather. Thii can be done using one of many possible products. In vegetable tanning we use products which we can prepare out of plants or parts of plants. Skin + Vegetable tanning material = Leather We choose to promote the method of vegetable tanning because: n The required base materials can be found in the neighbourhood. Nothing has to be imported from remote areas. q All kinds of leather can be produced using this method, like upper leather for shoes, harness leather and even sole leather. n Vegetable tanning does not harm your environment, if you are careful with wastes and trees. Wastes like lime and leached-out bar’d can be used for making compost. Treated waste water can be used for spraying the vegetable garden. Vegetable tanning can be done on a very small scale with simple tools. There is no need for machines, even when preparing larger quantities. The quality of the leather can be controlled in many ways, as we will see. The quality depends on the skills and the care taken by the tanner. Tannin, ‘~3 of the products we use in tanning, is the most important product when turning a skin into leather. This tannin is found in a lot of trees at parts of tress. In the Msekhocika area in Zambia the following tannin resources were found and used in tanning experiments: o The seeds of Dycrostachys Cinema = Kalumpangah. CI The bark of Piliostigma Thonningii = Msekese. e The bark of Pterocarpus Angolensis = Mu&a. 12 o The bark of Brachystegia Speciformis = Mputi. Certainly there are many other trees to be found, which can be useful. The most common solution of tannin is black tea. In some areas it is used for tanning. Some people will know that tea without sugar is a cure for diarrhoea. In fact it tans the intestines a bit, which causes the cure. Local medicine men know herbs with the same effect. In order to find out which barks or roots are useful for tanning, you might consuit a local doctor or perform some try-outs. A try-out involves putting a piece of prepared raw skin (refer to chapter 4) into a solution of ten parts of water and one part of dried and grounded bark or pod sample. This solution will have a brownish colour and should be stirred or shaken from time to time. Twioe a day you take out the piece of skin and stretch it. After stretching you put it back into the solution. After five days you take it out, wash it in clean water and dry it. When more or less dry, you try to knead and stretch it to see if it turns soft and supple. If so, you know that there is tannin in your sample. lf it stays hard or if it breaks, there is probably no or not enough tannin in your solution. Perform these try-outs in plastic or glass jars and do not use tins or iron utensils, because iron will stain the leather. Good books on trees also give information about the tannin contents of different parts of the tree. At the and of this book you will find a summary of weli-known tannin sources. 13 4 Skins Skins are a valuable raw material. Wing lii the skin protects the animal from cold, heat, dliseases and violation. Skins of different animals have diirent qualii. You can dllngulsh the leather from a cow from the leather from a goat. The design of the hair side (grain) is dint. But there are other diirences like thickness, handle and feel. The skin can be divided into three layers: 1 Outer layer = epidermis 2 Leather part = co&m or de&s 3 Connective tissue = hjgwdetmis An enlarged skin, seen from aside under a microscope, looks like the drawing in figure 1. Only the leather part, the co&m, is used for leather production. The outer layer, the hair and the connective tissue have to be removed before the actual tanning. Thii is done in a chemical and mechanical way during the so-called beam houseprocess. The corium consists of bundles of fibres of a protein called collegen (this protein forms glue when boiled). These bundles of fibres are more interwoven at the outside of the skin and form the so-called grain layer: the smooth hair side of the leather. On the inside the bundles are coarser and wider. This is the more fibrous flesh side of the leather. In between the fibres and the bundles of fibres Is a cementing substance. This substance functions as a greasing factor in a live skin, but glues the fibres together when the skin is dried. This makes a dried skin so hard and therefore useless for leather work. This substance is also removed during the beam house process and is replaced by tannin in the tanning process (refer to figure 2). 4.1 Preservation of skins H after slaughtering of the animal the skin is not processed immediately (within a few hours), it has to preserved. Otherwise it will start to decompose and rot. To preserve a skin we have to stop the growth and development of microbes, which can putrefy the skin. Microbes require a certain amount of moisture. Therefore a skin 14