Project Gutenberg's England, Picturesque and Descriptive, by Joel Cook This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: England, Picturesque and Descriptive A Reminiscence of Foreign Travel Author: Joel Cook Release Date: August 24, 2009 [EBook #29787] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLAND *** Produced by Sigal Alon, Janet Blenkinship and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) ALTON TOWERS. ALTON TOWERS. ENGLAND, PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE. A REMINISCENCE OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. By JOEL COOK, AUTHOR OF "A HOLIDAY TOUR IN EUROPE," "BRIEF SUMMER RAMBLES," ETC. OLD MILL AT SELBORNE. OLD MILL AT SELBORNE. WITH NEARLY FIVE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS. PHILADELPHIA; PORTER AND COATES. Copyright By PORTER & COATES, 1882. Press of Henry B. Ashmead, Philada. Electrotyped by Westcott & Thomson, Philada. TO JOHN WALTER, Esq., MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR BERKSHIRE, AND PROPRIETOR OF THE LONDON TIMES, WHO HAS DONE SO MUCH TO WELCOME AMERICANS WITH TRUE ENGLISH HOSPITALITY, AND TO GIVE ENGLISHMEN A MORE ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE OF, AND MORE INTIMATE RELATIONS WITH, THE UNITED STATES, This Work on England, BY AN AMERICAN, IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. INTRODUCTION. No land possesses greater attractions for the American tourist than England. It was the home of his forefathers; its history is to a great extent the history of his own country; and he is bound to it by the powerful ties of consanguinity, language, laws, and customs. When the American treads the busy London streets, threads the intricacies of the Liverpool docks and shipping, wanders along the green lanes of Devonshire, climbs Alnwick's castellated walls, or floats upon the placid bosom of the picturesque Wye, he seems almost as much at home as in his native land. But, apart from these considerations of common Anglo-Saxon paternity, no country in the world is more interesting to the intelligent traveller than England. The British system of entail, whatever may be our opinion of its political and economic merits, has built up vast estates and preserved the stately homes, renowned castles, and ivy-clad ruins of ancient and celebrated structures, to an extent and variety that no other land can show. The remains of the abbeys, castles, churches, and ancient fortresses in England and Wales that war and time together have crumbled and scarred tell the history of centuries, while countless legends of the olden time are revived as the tourist passes them in review. England, too, has other charms than these. British scenery, though not always equal in sublimity and grandeur to that displayed in many parts of our own country, is exceedingly beautiful, and has always been a fruitful theme of song and story. [Pg 2] [Pg 3] [Pg 4] [Pg 5] "The splendor falls on castle-walls And snowy summits old in story: The long light shakes across the lakes. And the wild cataract leaps in glory." Yet there are few satisfactory and comprehensive books about this land that is so full of renowned memorials of the past and so generously gifted by Nature. Such books as there are either cover a few counties or are devoted only to local description, or else are merely guide-books. The present work is believed to be the first attempt to give in attractive form a book which will serve not only as a guide to those about visiting England and Wales, but also as an agreeable reminiscence to others, who will find that its pages treat of familiar scenes. It would be impossible to describe everything within the brief compass of a single book, but it is believed that nearly all the more prominent places in England and Wales are included, with enough of their history and legend to make the description interesting. The artist's pencil has also been called into requisition, and the four hundred and eighty-seven illustrations will give an idea, such as no words can convey, of the attractions England presents to the tourist. The work has been arranged in eight tours, with Liverpool and London as the two starting-points, and each route following the lines upon which the sightseer generally advances in the respective directions taken. Such is probably the most convenient form for the travelling reader, as the author has found from experience, while a comprehensive index will make reference easy to different localities and persons. Without further introduction it is presented to the public, in the confident belief that the interest developed in its subject will excuse any shortcomings that may be found in its pages. Philadelphia, July, 1882. CONTENTS. I LIVERPOOL, WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST. Liverpool—Birkenhead—Knowsley Hall—Chester—Cheshire—Eaton Hall—Hawarden Castle—Bidston—Congleton—Beeston Castle—The river Dee—Llangollen—Valle-Crucis Abbey—Dinas Bran—Wynnstay—Pont Cysylltau—Chirk Castle—Bangor-ys-Coed— Holt—Wrexham—The Sands o' Dee—North Wales—Flint Castle—Rhuddlan Castle— Mold—Denbigh—St. Asaph—Holywell—Powys Castle—The Menai Strait—Anglesea— Beaumaris Castle—Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Plas Newydd—Caernarvon Castle— Ancient Segontium—Conway Castle—Bettws-y-Coed—Mount Snowdon—Port Madoc —Coast of Merioneth—Barmouth—St. Patrick's Causeway—Mawddach Vale—Cader Idris—Dolgelly—Bala Lake—Aberystwith—Harlech Castle—Holyhead 17 II LIVERPOOL, NORTHWARD TO THE SCOTTISH BORDER. Lancashire—Warrington—Manchester—Furness Abbey—The Ribble—Stonyhurst— Lancaster Castle—Isle of Man—Castletown—Rusben Castle—Peele Castle—The Lake Country—Windermere—Lodore Fall—Derwentwater—Keswick—Greta Hall—Southey, Wordsworth, and Coleridge—Skiddaw—-The Border Castles—Kendal Castle— Brougham Hall—The Solway—Carlisle Castle—Scaleby Castle—Naworth—Lord William Howard 51 III LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON. The Peak of Derbyshire—Castleton—Bess of Hardwicke—Hardwicke Hall—Bolsover Castle—The Wye and the Derwent—Buxton—Bakewell—Haddon Hall—The King of the Peak—Dorothy Vernon—Rowsley—The Peacock Inn—Chatsworth—The Victoria Regia —Matlock—Dovedale—Beauchief Abbey—Stafford Castle—Trentham Hall—Tamworth —Tutbury Castle—Chartley Castle—Alton Towers—Shrewsbury Castle—Bridgenorth— Wenlock Abbey—Ludlow Castle—The Feathers Inn—Lichfield Cathedral—Dr. Samuel Johnson—Coventry—Lady Godiva and Peeping Tom—Belvoir Castle—Charnwood Forest—Groby and Bradgate—Elizabeth Widvile and Lady Jane Grey—Ulverscroft Priory —Grace Dien Abbey—Ashby de la Zouche—Langley Priory—Leicester Abbey and Castle —Bosworth Field—Edgehill—Naseby—The Land of Shakespeare—Stratford-on-Avon— Warwick—Kenilworth—Birmingham—Boulton and Watt—Fotheringhay Castle—Holmby House—Bedford Castle—John Bunyan—Woburn Abbey and the Russells—Stowe— Whaddon Hall—Great Hampden—Creslow House 70 IV THE RIVER THAMES AND LONDON. [Pg 6] [Pg 7] The Thames Head—Cotswold Hills—Seven Springs—Cirencester—Cheltenham—Sudeley Castle—Chavenage—Shifford—Lechlade—Stanton Harcourt—Cumnor Hall—Fair Rosamond—Godstow Nunnery—Oxford—Oxford Colleges—Christ Church—Corpus Christi—Merton—Oriel—All Souls—University—Queen's—Magdalen—Brasenose— New College—Radcliffe Library—Bodleian Library—Lincoln—Exeter—Wadham—Keble —Trinity—Balliol—St. John's—Pembroke—Oxford Churches—Oxford Castle—Carfax Conduit—Banbury—Broughton Castle—Woodstock—Marlborough—Blenheim—Minster Lovel—Bicester—Eynsham—Abingdon—Radley—Bacon, Rich, and Holt—Clifton- Hampden—Caversham—Reading—Maidenhead—Bisham Abbey—Vicar of Bray—Eton College—Windsor Castle—Magna Charta Island—Cowey Stakes—Ditton—Twickenham —London—Fire Monument—St. Paul's Cathedral—Westminster Abbey—The Tower— Lollards and Lambeth—Bow Church—St. Bride's—Whitehall—Horse Guards—St. James Palace—Buckingham Palace—Kensington Palace—Houses of Parliament—Hyde Park— Marble Arch—Albert Memorial—South Kensington Museum—Royal Exchange—Bank of England—Mansion House—Inns of Court—British Museum—Some London Scenes—The Underground Railway—Holland House—Greenwich—Tilbury Fort—The Thames Mouth 137 V LONDON, NORTHWARD TO THE TWEED. Harrow—St. Albans—Verulam—Hatfield House—Lord Burleigh—Cassiobury— Knebworth—Great Bed of Ware—The River Cam—Audley End—Saffron Walden— Newport—Nell Gwynne—Littlebury—Winstanley—Harwich—Cambridge—Trinity and St. John's Colleges—Caius College—Trinity Hall—The Senate House—University Library —Clare College—Great St. Mary's Church—King's College—Corpus Christi College—St. Catharine's College—Queens' College—The Pitt Press—Pembroke College—Peterhouse —Fitzwilliam Museum—Hobson's Conduit—Downing College—Emmanuel College— Christ's College—Sidney-Sussex College—The Round Church—Magdalene College— Jesus College—Trumpington—The Fenland—Bury St. Edmunds—Hengrave Hall—Ely— Peterborough—Crowland Abbey—Guthlac—Norwich Castle and Cathedral—Stamford— Burghley House—George Inn—Grantham—Lincoln—Nottingham—Southwell—Sherwood Forest—Robin Hood—The Dukeries—Thoresby Hall—Clumber Park—Welbeck Abbey —Newstead Abbey—Newark—Hull—Wilberforce—Beverley—Sheffield—Wakefield— Leeds—Bolton Abbey—The Strid—Ripon Cathedral—Fountains Abbey—Studley Royal —Fountains Hall—York—Eboracum—York Minster—Clifford's Tower—Castle Howard —Kirkham Priory—Flamborough Head—Scarborough—Whitby Abbey—Durham Cathedral and Castle—St. Cuthbert—The Venerable Bede—Battle of Neville's Cross— Chester-le-Street—Lumley Castle—Newcastle-upon-Tyne—Hexham—Alnwick Castle— Hotspur and the Percies—St. Michael's Church—Hulne Priory—Ford Castle—Flodden Field—The Tweed—Berwick—Holy Isle—Lindisfarne—Bamborough—Grace Darling 224 VI LONDON, WESTWARD TO MILFORD HAVEN. The Cotswolds—The River Severn—Gloucester—Berkeley Castle—New Inn— Gloucester Cathedral—Lampreys—Tewkesbury; its Mustard, Abbey, and Battle— Worcester; its Battle—Charles II.'s Escape—Worcester Cathedral—The Malvern Hills— Worcestershire Beacon—Herefordshire Beacon—Great Malvern—St. Anne's Well—The River Wye—Clifford Castle—Hereford—Old Butcher's Row—Nell Gwynne's Birthplace —Ross—The Man of Ross—Ross Church and its Trees—Walton Castle—Goodrich Castle—Forest of Dean—Coldwell—Symond's Vat—The Dowards—Monmouth—Kymin Hill—Raglan Castle—Redbrook—St. Briard Castle—Tintern Abbey—The Wyncliff— Wyntour's Leap—Chepstow Castle—The River Monnow—The Golden Valley—The Black Mountains—Pontrilas Court—Ewias Harold—Abbey Dore—The Scyrrid Vawr— Wormridge—Kilpeck—Oldcastle—Kentchurch—Grosmont—The Vale of Usk— Abergavenny—Llanthony Priory—Walter Savage Landor—Capel-y-Ffyn—Newport— Penarth Roads—Cardiff—The Rocking-Stone—Llandaff—Caerphilly Castle and its Leaning Tower—Swansea—The Mumbles—Oystermouth Castle—Neath Abbey— Caermarthen—Tenby—Manorbeer Castle—Golden Grove—Pembroke—Milford— Haverfordwest—Milford Haven—Pictou Castle—Carew Castle 337 VII LONDON, SOUTH-WEST TO LAND'S END. Virginia Water—Sunninghill—Ascot—Wokingham—Bearwood—The London Times— White Horse Hill—Box Tunnel—Salisbury—Salisbury Plain—Old Sarum—Stonehenge— Amesbury—Wilton House—The Earls of Pembroke—Carpet-making—Bath—William Beckford—Fonthill—Bristol—William Canynge—Chatterton—Clifton—Brandon Hill— Well—The Mendips—Jocelyn—Beckington—Ralph of Shrewsbury—Thomas Ken—The Cheddar Cliffs—The Wookey Hole—The Black Down—The Isle of Avelon—Glastonbury —Weary-all Hill—Sedgemoor—The Isle of Athelney—Bridgewater—Oldmixon— Monmouth's Rebellion—Weston Zoyland—King Alfred—Sherborne—Sir Walter Raleigh —The Coast of Dorset—Poole—Wareham—Isle of Purbeck—Corfe Castle—The Foreland—Swanage—St. Aldhelm's Head—Weymouth—Portland Isle and Bill—The Channel Islands—Jersey—Corbière Promontory—Mount Orgueil—Alderney—Guernsey —Castle Comet—The Southern Coast of Devon—Abbotsbury—Lyme Regis—Axminster —Sidmouth—Exmouth—Exeter—William, Prince of Orange—Exeter Cathedral—Bishop Trelawney—Dawlish—Teignmouth—Hope's Nose—Babbicombe Bay—Anstis Cove— Torbay—Torquay—Brixham—Dartmoor—The River Dart—Totnes—Berry Pomeroy Castle—Dartmouth—The River Plym—The Dewerstone—Plympton Priory—Sir Joshua Reynolds—Catwater Haven—Plymouth—Stonehouse—Devonport—Eddystone Lighthouse—Tavistock Abbey—Buckland Abbey—Lydford Castle—The Northern Coast of Devon—Exmoor—Minehead—Dunster—Dunkery Beacon—Porlock Bay—The River Lyn—Oare—Lorna Doone—Jan Ridd—Lynton—Lynmouth—Castle Rock—The Devil's Cheese-Ring—Combe Martin—Ilfracombe—Norte Point—Morthoe—Barnstable— Bideford—Clovelly—Lundy Island—Cornwall—Tintagel—Launceston—Liskeard— Fowey—Lizard Peninsula—Falmouth—Pendennis Castle—Helston—Mullyon Cove— Smuggling—Kynance Cove—The Post-Office—Old Lizard Head—Polpeor—St. Michael's Mount—Penzance—Pilchard Fishery—Penwith—Land's End 384 VIII LONDON, TO THE SOUTH COAST. The Surrey Side—The Chalk Downs—Guildford—The Hog's Back—Albury Down— Archbishop Abbot—St. Catharine's Chapel—St. Martha's Chapel—Albury Park—John Evelyn—Henry Drummond—Aldershot Camp—Leith Hill—Redland's Wood—Holmwood Park—Dorking—Weller and the Marquis of Granby Inn—Deepdene—Betchworth Castle —The River Mole—Boxhill—The Fox and Hounds—The Denbies—Ranmore Common— Battle of Dorking—Wotton Church—Epsom—Reigate—Pierrepoint House—Longfield— The Weald of Kent—Goudhurst—Bedgebury Park—Kilndown—Cranbrook—Bloody Baker's Prison—Sissinghurst—Bayham Abbey—Tunbridge Castle—Tunbridge Wells— Penshurst—Sir Philip Sidney—Hever Castle—Anne Boleyn—Knole—Leeds Castle— Tenterden Steeple and the Goodwin Sands—Rochester—Gad's Hill—Chatham— Canterbury Cathedral—St. Thomas à Becket—Falstaff Inn—Isle of Thanet—Ramsgate— Margate—North Foreland—The Cinque Ports—Sandwich—Rutupiæ—Ebbsfleet— Goodwin Sands—Walmer Castle—South Foreland—Dover—Shakespeare's Cliff— Folkestone—Hythe—Romney—Dungeness—Rye—Winchelsea—Hastings—Pevensey— Hailsham—Hurstmonceux Castle—Beachy Head—Brighton—The Aquarium—The South Downs—Dichling Beacon—Newhaven—Steyning—Wiston Manor—Chanctonbury Ring —Arundel Castle—Chichester—Selsey Bill—Goodwood—Bignor—Midhurst—Cowdray —Dunford House—Selborne—Gilbert White; his book; his house, sun-dial, and church— Greatham Church—Winchester—The New Forest—Lyndhurst—Minstead Manor—Castle Malwood—Death of William Rufus—Rufus's Stone—Beaulieu Abbey—Brockenhurst— Ringwood—Lydington—Christchurch—Southampton—Netley Abbey—Calshot Castle— The Solent—Portsea Island—Portsmouth—Gosport—Spithead—The Isle of Wight—High Down—Alum Bay—Yarmouth—Cowes—Osborne House—Ryde—Bratling—Sandown —Shanklin Chine—Bonchurch—The Undercliff—Ventnor—Niton—St. Lawrence Church —St. Catharine's Down—Blackgang Chine—Carisbrooke Castle—Newport—Freshwater —Brixton—The Needles 463 [Pg 11] MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH. MARKET-PLACE, PETERBOROUGH. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Alton Towers Frontispiece. The Old Mill, Selborne Title-Page. Market-place, Peterborough After Contents. The Pottergate, Alnwick 16 Perch Rock Light 17 St. George's Hall, Liverpool 19 Chester Cathedral, Exterior 21 Chester Cathedral, Interior 21 Julius Cæsar's Tower, Chester 22 Ancient Front, Chester 22 God's Providence House, Chester 23 Bishop Lloyd's Palace, Chester 23 Old Lamb Row, Chester 23 Stanley House, Front, Chester 24 Stanley House, Rear, Chester 24 Phœnix Tower, Chester 25 Water Tower, Chester 25 Abbey Gale, Chester 26 Ruins of St. John's Chapel, Chester 26 Plas Newydd, Llangollen 28 Ruins of Valle-Crucis Abbey 29 Wynnstay 30 Pont Cysylltau 30 Wrexham Tower 31 The Roodee, from the Railway-bridge, Chester 32 The "Sands o' Dee" 33 Menai Strait 36 Beaumaris Castle 37 Bangor Cathedral 37 Caernarvon Castle 39 Conway Castle, from the Road to Llanrwst 40 Falls of the Conway 41 Swallow Falls 42 Llanrwst Bridge 43 Barmouth 44 Barmouth Estuary 45 Cader Idris, on the Taly-slyn Ascent 46 Rhayadr-y-Mawddach 46 Dolgelly 47 Owen Glendower's Parliament House, Dolgelly 47 Lower Bridge, Torrent Walk, Dolgelly 48 Bala Lake 48 Aberystwith 49 Harlech Castle 50 Old Market, Warrington 51 Manchester Cathedral, from the South-east 53 Assize Courts, Manchester 54 Royal Exchange, Manchester 55 Furness Abbey 56 Castle Square, Lancaster 58 Bradda Head, Isle of Man 59 Kirk Bradden, Isle of Man 59 Rhenass Waterfall, Isle of Man 60 Castle Rushen, Isle of Man 61 Peele Castle, Isle of Man 63 Glimpse of Derwentwater, from Scafell 64 Falls of Lodore, Derwentwater 65 Road through the Cathedral Close, Carlisle 68 View on the Torrent Walk, Dolgelly 69 Peveril Castle, Castleton 71 Hardwicke Hall 72 Hardwicke Hall, Elizabethan Staircase 73 Bolsover Castle 74 The Crescent, Buxton 75 Bakewell Church 76 Haddon Hall, from the Wye 77 Haddon Hall, Entrance to Banquet-hall 78 Haddon Hall, the Terrace 79 The Peacock Inn from the Road 81 Chatsworth House, from the South-west 81 Chatsworth House, Door to State Drawing-room 82 Chatsworth House, State Drawing-room 82 Chatsworth House, State Bedroom 83 Chatsworth House, the Sculpture-gallery 84 Chatsworth House, Gateway to Stable 85 High Tor, Matlock 85 The Straits, Dovedale 86 Banks of the Dove 86 Tissington Spires, Dovedale 87 Trentham Hall 89 Trentham Hall—on the Terrace 90 Shrewsbury Castle, from the Railway-station 93 Head-quarters of Henry VII. on his Way to Bosworth Field, Shrewsbury 94 On Battlefield Road, Shrewsbury 94 Bridgenorth, from near Oldbury 95 Bridgenorth, Keep of the Castle 95 Bridgenorth, House where Bishop Percy was born 96 Lodge of Much Wenlock Abbey 96 Wenlock 97 Ludlow Castle 98 Ludlow Castle, Entrance to the Council-chamber 99 The Feathers Hotel, Ludlow 100 Lichfield Cathedral, West Front 101 Lichfield Cathedral, Interior, looking West 101 Lichfield Cathedral, Rear View 102 Dr. Johnson's Birthplace, Lichfield 103 Coventry Gateway 105 Coventry 106 Ruins of Bradgate House 108 Ruins of Ulverscroft Priory 109 Ruins of Grace Dieu Abbey 110 Leicester Abbey 111 Gateway, Newgate Street, Leicester 112 Edgehill 113 [Pg 12] Edgehill, Mill at 115 Church and Market-hall, Market Harborough 117 Shakespeare's House, Stratford 118 Anne Hathaway's Cottage, Shottery 119 Warwick Castle 120 Leicester's Hospital, Warwick 122 Oblique Gables in Warwick 122 Kenilworth Castle 123 St. Martin's Church, Birmingham 124 Aston Hall, Birmingham 125 Aston Hall, the "Gallery of the Presence" 126 The Town-hall, Birmingham 127 Elstow, Bedford 130 Elstow Church 130 Elstow Church, North Door 131 Woburn Abbey, West Front 132 Woburn Abbey, the Sculpture-gallery 133 Woburn Abbey, Entrance to the Puzzle garden 134 Thames Head 138 Dovecote, Stanton Harcourt 140 Cumnor Churchyard 141 Godstow Nunnery 142 Magdalen College, Oxford, from the Cherwell 143 Magdalen College, Stone Pulpit 144 Magdalen College, Bow Window 144 Gable at St. Aldate's College, Oxford 144 Dormer Window, Merton College, Oxford 144 Gateway of Christ Church College, Oxford 145 Merton College Chapel, Oxford 146 Merton College Gateway 146 Oriel College, Oxford 147 Magdalen College Cloisters, Oxford 148 Magdalen College, Founders' Tower 149 Magdalen College 150 New College, Oxford, from the Garden 151 New College 152 The Radcliffe Library, from the Quadrangle of Brasenose, Oxford 152 Dining-hall, Exeter College, Oxford 153 Trinity College Chapel, Oxford 153 Window in St. John's College, Garden Front, Oxford 154 Tower St. John's College, Oxford 154 St. Mary the Virgin, from High Street, Oxford 155 All Saints, from High Street, Oxford 156 Carfax Conduit 157 Iffley Mill 157 Iffley Church 158 Cromwell's Parliament-house, Banbury 159 Berks and Wilts Canal 160 Chaucer's House, Woodstock 161 Old Remains at Woodstock 162 Blenheim Palace, from the Lake 163 Bicester Priory 165 Bicester Market 166 Cross at Eynsham 166 Entrance to Abingdon Abbey 167 Radley Church 168 The Thames at Clifton-Hampden 170 Bray Church 171 Eton College, from the Playing Fields 173 Eton College, from the Cricket-ground 173 Windsor Castle, from the Brocas 174 Windsor Castle Round Tower, West End 175 Windsor Castle, Queen's Rooms in South-east Tower 176 Windsor Castle, Interior of St. George's Chapel 177 Magna Charta Island 178 The Monument, London 180 St. Paul's Cathedral, London 182 St. Paul's Cathedral, South Side 183 St. Paul's Cathedral, the Choir 183 St. Paul's Cathedral, Wellington Monument 184 Westminster Abbey, London 185 Westminster Abbey, Cloisters of 186 Westminster Abbey, Interior of Choir 187 Westminster Abbey, King Henry VII.'s Chapel 188 The Tower of London, Views in 191 The Church of St. Peter, on Tower Green 193 The Lollards' Tower, Lambeth Palace, London 194 St. Mary-le-Bow, London 195 St. Bride's, Fleet Street, London. 195 Chapel Royal, Whitehall, London 196 Chapel Royal, Interior of (Banqueting-hall) 197 The Horse Guards, from the Parade-ground, London 198 Gateway of St. James Palace, London 199 Buckingham Palace, Garden Front, London 200 Kensington Palace, West Front, London 201 Victoria Tower, Houses of Parliament, London 203 Interior of the House of Commons 204 The Marble Arch, Hyde Park, London Principal Entrance New Museum of Natural History, 205 The Albert Memorial, Hyde Park 206 South Kensington, London 207 Royal Exchange, London 208 Bank of England, London 208 Mansion House, London 209 The Law Courts, London 210 Sir Paul Finder's House, London 211 Waterloo Bridge, London 212 Schomberg House, London 213 Statue of Sidney Herbert, Pall Mall, London 213 Doorway, Beaconsfield Club, London 214 Cavendish Square, London 214 The "Bell Inn" at Edmonton 215 The "Old Tabard Inn," London. 216 Holland House, South Side 217 Holland House, Dining-Room 218 Holland House, the Dutch Garden 218 Holland House, the Library 219 Holland House, Rogers's Seat in the Dutch Garden 219 Greenwich Hospital, from the River 221 London, from Greenwich Park 222 St. Albans, from Verulam 225 Old Wall at Verulam 226 Monastery Gate, St. Albans 226 The Tower of the Abbey, St. Albans 227 Staircase to Watching Gallery, St. Albans 227 Shrine and Watching Gallery, St. Albans 228 Clock Tower, St. Albans 229 Barnard's Heath 229 St. Michael's, Verulam 230 Queen Elizabeth's Oak, Hatfield 231 Hatfield House 232 Hatfield House, the Corridor 233 View through Old Gateway, Hatfield 234 Audley End, Western Front 235 Views in Saffron Walden 237 Town-hall. Church. Entrance to the Town. Jetties at Harwich 238 Bridge, St. John's College, Cambridge 239 Hall of Trinity College, Cambridge 241 St. John's Chapel, Cambridge 242 Back of Clare College, Cambridge 244 King's College Chapel—Interior—Cambridge 245 King's College Chapel, Doorway of 246 [Pg 13] Scenes in Cambridge 247 The Senate House. The Pitt Press. Great St. Mary's. The Fitzwilliam Museum. The Round Church. Gateway, Jesus College, Cambridge 249 Hengrave Hall 250 Road leading to Ely Close 250 Ely Cathedral, from the Railway Bridge 251 Old Bits in Ely 252 Old Passage from Ely Street to Cathedral Ford. Entrance to Prior Crawdon's Chapel. Old Houses In High Street. Peterborough Cathedral 253 Peterborough Cathedral, Aisle and Choir 254 East End of Crowland Abbey 255 Norwich Castle 257 Norwich Cathedral 258 Norwich Cathedral—the Choir, looking East 259 Norwich Market-place 260 Burghley House 261 Lincoln Cathedral, from the South-west 264 "Bits" from Lincoln 265 The Cloisters. The Angel Choir. The High Bridge. Nottingham Castle 267 Southwell Minster and Ruins of the Archbishop's Palace 268 Southwell Minster, the Nave 269 Clumber Hall 271 Welbeck Abbey 272 Newark Castle, Front 274 Newark Castle and Dungeon 275 Newark Market-square 276 Newark Church, looking from the North 276 The Humber at Hull 277 House where Wilberforce was born, Hull 278 Beverley, Entrance-Gate 278 Beverley, Market-square 279 Manor House, Sheffield 280 Entrance to the Cutlers' Hall, Sheffield 281 Edward IV.'s Chapel, Wakefield Bridge 282 Wakefield 283 Briggate, Leeds, looking North 283 St. John's Church, Leeds 284 Bolton Abbey, Gateway in the Priory 286 Bolton Abbey, the Churchyard 286 The Strid 287 Ripon Minster 288 Studley Royal Park 289 Fountains Abbey, the Transept 290 Fountains Abbey, Tower and Crypt 291 Fountains Hall 292 Richmond Castle 293 The Multangular Tower and Ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, York 294 Micklegate Bar and the Red Tower, York 297 York Minster 298 York Minster, the Choir 299 York Minster, Tomb of Archbishop DeGrey 300 Clifford's Tower, York 301 The Shambles, York 302 Castle Howard, South Front 303 Castle Howard, the Obelisk 304 Castle Howard, the Temple, with the Mausoleum in the distance 305 Gateway, Kirkham Priory 306 Scarborough Spa and Esplanade 308 Scarborough, from the Sea 309 Whitby Abbey 311 Durham, General View of the Cathedral and Castle 312 Durham Castle, Norman Doorway 313 Durham Cathedral, from an old Homestead on the Wear 315 Durham Cathedral, the Nave 316 Durham Cathedral, the Choir, looking West 317 Durham Cathedral, the Galilee and Tomb of Bede 318 Lumley Castle 320 Lumley Castle, Gateway from the Walk 321 Hexham 322 Alnwick Castle, from the Lion bridge 323 Alnwick Castle, the Barbican Gate 323 Alnwick Castle, the Barbican 324 Alnwick Castle, the Barbican, Eastern Angle 325 Alnwick Castle, the Percy Bedstead 326 Alnwick Castle, the Percy Cross 326 Alnwick Castle, Constable's Tower 327 Alnwick Castle, Earl Hugh's Tower 328 Alnwick Castle, Draw-Well and Norman Gateway 329 Alnwick Castle, Gravestone in the Churchyard of St. Michael's and All Angels 329 Alnwick Castle, Font Lectern, St. Michael's Church 330 Hulne Priory, Porter's Lodge 330 Ford Tower, overlooking Flodden 331 The Cheviots, from Ford Castle 332 Flodden, from the King's Bedchamber, Ford Castle 333 Ford Castle, the Crypt 335 Grace Darling's Monument, Bamborough 336 Gloucester Cathedral, from the South-east 338 Gloucester, the New Inn 340 Gloucester Cathedral, the Monks' Lavatory 342 Tewkesbury 343 Tewkesbury Abbey 344 Tewkesbury Abbey, Choir 345 Worcester Cathedral, from the Severn 346 Worcester Cathedral, Choir 348 Ruins of the Guesten Hall, Worcester 349 Close in Worcester 350 St. Anne's Well, Malvern 352 Butchers' Row, Hereford 353 Out-house where Nell Gwynne was born, Hereford 353 Hereford Cathedral 354 Hereford Cathedral, Old Nave 355 Ross, House of the "Man of Ross" 356 Ross Market-place 357 Ross Church 358 Ross Church, the Tree, in 358 Ruins of Goodrich Castle 359 Bend in the Wye 360 Symond's Yat, the Wye 361 Monmouth Bridge 363 Monmouth Bridge, Gate on 363 Raglan Castle 364 Tintern Abbey, from the Highroad 365 Chepstow Castle 368 Pontrilas Court 370 The Scyrrid Vawr 371 Llanthony Priory, looking down the Nave 373 Llanthony Priory, the South Transept 374 Swansea, North Dock 377 Swansea Castle 378 The Mumbles 379 Oystermouth Castle 380 Neath Abbey, ruins 381 Bearwood, Berkshire, Residence of John Walter, Esq., proprietor of London Times 385 Salisbury Cathedral 387 Salisbury Market 388 [Pg 14] Stonehenge 390 Wilton House 392 Wilton House, Fireplace in Double Cube Room 393 Wilton House, the Library 393 Wilton House, the Library Window 394 Bristol Cathedral 398 Norman Doorway, College Green, Bristol 399 Clifton Suspension Bridge, Bristol 400 Wells Cathedral, from the Bishop's Garden 401 Wells Cathedral, from the Swan Pool 402 Wells Cathedral, View under Central Tower 403 Wells, Ruins of the Old Banquet-Hall 404 Entrance to the Cheddar Cliffs, Wells 405 High Rocks at Cheddar, Wells 406 Glastonbury Tribunal 408 Sedgemoor, from Cock Hill 409 Weston Zoyland Church 410 The Isle of Athelney 412 Sherbourne 413 Corfe Castle 416 Studland Church 418 Ruins of Old Cross in the Churchyard 418 St. Aldhelm's Head 419 Portland Isle 420 Corbière Lighthouse, Jersey 422 View from Devil's Hole, Jersey 423 Exeter Cathedral, West Front 425 Exeter, Ruins of Rougemont Castle 426 Exeter, Old Houses in Cathedral Close 426 Exeter Cathedral, from the North-west 427 Exeter Cathedral, Bishop's Throne 428 Exeter Cathedral, Minstrel Gallery 429 Exeter, Guildhall 429 Babbicombe Bay 430 Austis Cove 431 Totnes, from the river 432 Berry Pomeroy Castle 433 A Bend of the Dart 434 Dartmouth Castle 434 The Dewerstone 435 Vale of Bickleigh 436 Plympton Priory, Old Doorway 437 Minehead 440 Dunster 441 On Porlock Moor 442 Doone Valley 443 Bagworthy Water 444 Jan Ridd's Tree 444 View on the East Lyn 445 Castle Rock, Lynton 445 Devil's Cheese-Ring, Lynton 446 Tower on Beach, Lynmouth 447 Ilfracombe 447 Morte Point 449 Bideford Bridge 450 Clovelly, Main Street 450 Clovelly, Old Houses on Beach 451 Fowey Pier 452 Pendennis Castle 454 Mullyon Cove 455 Lion Rock, with Mullyon in the distance 456 Cave at Mullyon 456 Pradenack Point 457 Kynance Cove 457 The Post-Office, Kynance 458 Polpeor 459 Rocks near the Lizard 459 [Pg 15] St. Michael's Mount 460 Old Market, Penzance 461 Land's End 462 High Street, Guildford 464 Ruins of St. Catharine's Chapel 466 Leith Hill 467 Old Dovecote, Holmwood Park 468 White Horse Inn, Dorking 469 Pierrepoint House 472 Longfield, East Sheen 473 Ruins of Sissinghurst 475 Tunbridge Castle 476 Penshurst Place 476 Penshurst Church 477 Hever Castle 478 Leeds Castle, Gateway 478 Rochester Castle 480 Canterbury 481 Canterbury, Falstaff Inn 483 Sandwich, the Barbican 485 Dover Castle, the Pharos 487 Dover Cattle, Saluting-Battery Gate 487 Rye, Old Houses 488 Hurstmonceux Castle 490 Arundel Castle 494 Ruins of Cowdray 494 Selborne, Gilbert White's House 495 Selborne, Gilbert White's Sun-Dial 496 Selborne Church 496 Selborne, Rocky Lane to Alton 497 Selborne, Wishing-Stone 498 Greatham Church 499 Winchester, Cardinal Beaufort's Gate and Brewery 500 New Forest, from Bramble Hill 502 New Forest, Rufus's Stone 503 New Forest, Brockenhurst Church 505 Christchurch, the Priory from the Quay and Place Mills 506 Christchurch 507 Christchurch, Old Norman House and View from Priory 508 Portsmouth Point 510 Portsmouth, H.M.S. "Victory" 511 Cowes Harbor, Isle of Wight 512 The Needles, from Alum Bay, Isle of Wight 513 Yarmouth, Isle of Wight 513 Osborne House, from the Sea, Isle of Wight 514 Shanklin Chine, Isle of Wight 516 The Undercliff, Isle of Wight 517 Carisbrooke Castle, looking from Isle of Wight 519 Tennyson's House, Isle of Wight 521 The Needles, Isle of Wight 522 [Pg 16] THE POTTERGATE, ALNWICK. THE POTTERGATE, ALNWICK. England, Picturesque and Descriptive. I. LIVERPOOL WESTWARD TO THE WELSH COAST. Liverpool—Birkenhead—Knowsley Hall—Chester—Cheshire—Eaton Hall—Hawarden Castle—Bidston—Congleton— Beeston Castle—The river Dee—Llangollen—Valle-Crucis Abbey—Dinas Bran—Wynnstay—Pont Cysylltau—Chirk Castle—Bangor-ys-Coed—Holt—Wrexham—The Sands o' Dee—North Wales—Flint Castle—Rhuddlan Castle—Mold— Denbigh—St. Asaph—Holywell—Powys Castle—The Menai Strait—Anglesea—Beaumaris Castle—Bangor—Penrhyn Castle—Plas Newydd—Caernarvon Castle—Ancient Segontium—Conway Castle—Bettws-y-Coed—Mount Snowdon— Port Madoc—Coast of Merioneth—Barmouth—St. Patrick's Causeway—Mawddach Vale—Cader Idris—Dolgelly—Bala Lake—Aberystwith—Harlech Castle—Holyhead. LIVERPOOL. THE PERCH ROCK LIGHT. THE PERCH ROCK LIGHT. The American transatlantic tourist, after a week or more spent upon the ocean, is usually glad to again see the land. After skirting the bold Irish coast, and peeping into the pretty cove of Cork, with Queenstown in the background, and passing the rocky headlands of Wales, the steamer that brings him from America carefully enters the Mersey River. The shores are low but picturesque as the tourist moves along the estuary between the coasts of Lancashire and Cheshire, and passes the great beacon standing up solitary and alone amid the waste of waters, the Perch Rock Light off New Brighton on the Cheshire side. Thus he comes to the world's greatest seaport—Liverpool—and the steamer finally drops her anchor between the miles of docks that front the two cities, Liverpool on the left and Birkenhead on the right. Forests of masts loom up behind the great dock-walls, stretching far away on either bank, while a fleet of arriving or departing steamers is anchored in a long line in mid-channel. Odd-looking, low, black [Pg 17] [Pg 18] tugs, pouring out thick smoke from double funnels, move over the water, and one of them takes the passengers alongside the capacious structure a half mile long, built on pontoons, so it can rise and fall with the tides, and known as the Prince's Landing-Stage, where the customs officers perform their brief formalities and quickly let the visitor go ashore over the fine floating bridge into the city. At Liverpool most American travellers begin their view of England. It is the great city of ships and sailors and all that appertains to the sea, and its 550,000 population are mainly employed in mercantile life and the myriad trades that serve the ship or deal in its cargo, for fifteen thousand to twenty thousand of the largest vessels of modern commerce will enter the Liverpool docks in a year, and its merchants own 7,000,000 tonnage. Fronting these docks on the Liverpool side of the Mersey is the great sea-wall, over five miles long, behind which are enclosed 400 acres of water- surface in the various docks, that are bordered by sixteen miles' length of quays. On the Birkenhead side of the river there are ten miles of quays in the docks that extend for over two miles along the bank. These docks, which are made necessary to accommodate the enormous commerce, have cost over $50,000,000, and are the crowning glory of Liverpool. They are filled with the ships of all nations, and huge storehouses line the quays, containing products from all parts of the globe, yet chiefly the grain and cotton, provisions, tobacco, and lumber of America. Railways run along the inner border of the docks on a street between them and the town, and along their tracks horses draw the freight-cars, while double-decked passenger-cars also run upon them with broad wheels fitting the rails, yet capable of being run off whenever the driver wishes to get ahead of the slowly-moving freight-cars. Ordinary wagons move upon Strand street alongside, with horses of the largest size drawing them, the huge growth of the Liverpool horses being commensurate with the immense trucks and vans to which these magnificent animals are harnessed. Liverpool is of great antiquity, but in the time of William the Conqueror was only a fishing-village. Liverpool Castle, long since demolished, was a fortress eight hundred years ago, and afterward the rival families of Molineux and Stanley contended for the mastery of the place. It was a town of slow growth, however, and did not attain full civic dignity till the time of Charles I. It was within two hundred years that it became a seaport of any note. The first dock was opened in 1699, and strangely enough it was the African slave-trade that gave the Liverpool merchants their original start. The port sent out its first slave-ship in 1709, and in 1753 had eighty-eight ships engaged in the slave-trade, which carried over twenty-five thousand slaves from Africa to the New World that year. Slave-auctions were frequent in Liverpool, and one of the streets where these sales were effected was nicknamed "Negro street." The agitation for the abolition of the trade was carried on a long time before Liverpool submitted, and then privateering came prominently out as the lucrative business a hundred years ago during the French wars, that brought Liverpool great wealth. Next followed the development of trade with the East Indies, and finally the trade with America has grown to such enormous proportions in the present century as to eclipse all other special branches of Liverpool commerce, large as some of them are. This has made many princely fortunes for the merchants and shipowners, and their wealth has been liberally expended in beautifying their city. It has in recent years had very rapid growth, and has greatly increased its architectural adornments. Most amazing has been this advancement since the time in the last century when the mayor and corporation entertained Prince William of Gloucester at dinner, and, pleased at the appetite he developed, one of them called out, "Eat away, Your Royal Highness; there's plenty more in the kitchen!" The mayor was Jonas Bold, and afterwards, taking the prince to church, they were astonished to find that the preacher had taken for his text the words, "Behold, a greater than Jonas is here." ST. GEORGE'S HALL. ST. GEORGE'S HALL. Liverpool has several fine buildings. Its Custom House is a large Ionic structure of chaste design, with a tall dome that can be seen from afar, and richly decorated within. The Town Hall and the Exchange buildings make up the four sides of an enclosed quadrangle paved with broad flagstones. Here, around the attractive Nelson monument in the centre, the merchants meet and transact their business. The chief public building is St. George's Hall, an imposing edifice, surrounded with columns and raised high above one side of an open square, and costing $2,000,000 to build. It is a Corinthian building, having at one end the Great Hall, one hundred and sixty-nine feet long, where public meetings are held, and court-rooms at the other end. Statues of Robert Peel, Gladstone, and Stephenson, with other great men, adorn the Hall. Sir William Brown, who amassed a princely fortune in Liverpool, has presented the city with a splendid free library and museum, which stands in a magnificent position on Shaw's Brow. Many of the streets are lined with stately edifices, public and private, and most of these avenues diverge from the square fronting St. George's Hall, opposite which is the fine station of the London and North-western Railway, which, as is the railroad custom in England, is also a large hotel. The suburbs of Liverpool are filled for a wide circuit with elegant rural homes and surrounding ornamental grounds, where the opulent merchants live. They are generally bordered with high stone walls, interfering with the view, and impressing the visitor strongly with the idea that an Englishman's house is his castle. Several pretty parks with ornamental lakes among their hills are also in the suburbs. Yet it is the vast trade that is the glory of Liverpool, for it is but an epitome of England's commercial greatness, and is of comparatively modern growth. "All this," not long ago said Lord Erskine, speaking of the rapid advancement of Liverpool, "has been created by the industry and well-disciplined management of a handful of men since I was a boy." KNOWSLEY HALL. A few miles out of Liverpool is the village of Prescot, where Kemble the tragedian was born, and where the people at the present time are largely engaged in watchmaking. Not far from Prescot is one of the famous homes of England—Knowsley Hall, the seat of the Stanleys and of the Earls of Derby for five hundred years. The park covers two thousand acres and is almost ten miles in circumference. The greater portion of the famous house was built in the time of George II. It is an extensive and magnificent structure, and contains many art-treasures in its picture-gallery by Rembrandt, Rubens, Correggio, Teniers, Vandyke, Salvator Rosa, and others. The Stanleys are one of the governing families of England, the last Earl of Derby having been premier in 1866, and the present earl having also been a cabinet minister. The crest of the Stanleys represents the Eagle and the Child, and is derived from the story of a remote ancestor who, cherishing an ardent desire for a male heir, and having only a daughter, contrived to have an infant conveyed to the foot of a tree in the park frequented by an eagle. Here he and his lady, taking a walk, found the child as if by accident, and the lady, considering it a gift from Heaven brought by the eagle and miraculously preserved, adopted the boy as her heir. From this time the crest was assumed, but we are told that the old knight's conscience smote him at the trick, and on his deathbed he bequeathed the chief part of his fortune to the daughter, from whom are descended the present family. [Pg 19] [Pg 20] [Pg 21]