Engineering apparel fabrics and garments The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into partnership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo. Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead web site at: www.woodheadpublishing.com. Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s web site at: www. textileinstitutebooks.com. A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found at the end of the contents pages. Woodhead Publishing in Textiles: Number 96 Engineering apparel fabrics and garments J. Fan and L. Hunter Oxford Cambridge New Delhi Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Great Abington, Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2009 The authors have asserted their moral rights. Every effort has been made to trace and acknowledge ownership of copyright. The publishers will be glad to hear from any copyright holders whom it has not been possible to contact. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. 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Typeset by SNP Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, UK Contents Author contact details xi Woodhead Publishing in Textiles xiii Preface xix 1 Handle and making-up performance of fabrics and garments 1 L. Hunter and E. L. Hunter 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) of fabric handle and making-up performance 4 1.3 Other methods 27 1.4 Effects of fi bre properties 28 1.5 Effects of yarn properties 30 1.6 Effects of fabric properties 31 1.7 Effects of dyeing and fi nishing (chemical and mechanical) treatments 33 1.8 General points 38 1.9 Sources of further information and advice 42 1.10 References 42 2 Wrinkling of fabrics and garments 52 L. Hunter 2.1 Introduction 52 2.2 The measurement of wrinkle and crease recovery 54 2.3 Surface smoothness after repeated laundering 55 2.4 Factors affecting fabric wrinkling and recovery 55 2.5 Factors affecting wrinkling during wear 57 2.6 Effects of fi bre properties 58 2.7 Effects of yarn and fabric parameters 62 2.8 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 65 2.9 Sources of further information and advice 67 2.10 Concluding remarks 68 2.11 References 68 v vi Contents 3 Pilling of fabrics and garments 71 L. Hunter 3.1 Introduction 71 3.2 Effects of fi bre composition and properties 75 3.3 Effects of yarn structure and properties 79 3.4 Effects of fabric structure and properties 81 3.5 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 82 3.6 Sources of further information and advice 83 3.7 Concluding remarks 83 3.8 References 85 4 Bagging of fabrics and garments 87 L. Hunter 4.1 Introduction 87 4.2 The measurement of bagging 90 4.3 Effects of fi bre properties 95 4.4 Effects of yarn properties 96 4.5 Effects of fabric properties 96 4.6 Effects of garment construction 97 4.7 Effect of fi nishing 97 4.8 Fabric bagging prediction and modelling 97 4.9 Sources of further information and advice 99 4.10 Concluding remarks 99 4.11 References 100 5 Fabric and garment drape 102 L. Hunter, J. Fan and D. Chau 5.1 Introduction 102 5.2 Drape measurement 103 5.3 Engineering fabric drape 107 5.4 Empirical prediction of drape 111 5.5 Modelling fabric and garment drape 117 5.6 Drape models in CAD and Internet systems 121 5.7 Sources of further information and advice 124 5.8 Concluding remarks 124 5.9 References 125 6 Appearance issues in garment processing 131 J. Fan, L. Lau and L. Hunter 6.1 Introduction 131 6.2 Seam appearance 131 Contents vii 6.3 Appearance issues in fusing 141 6.4 Appearance issues in garment dyeing 147 6.5 Appearance issues in pressing 152 6.6 Storage and packaging 155 6.7 Concluding remarks 156 6.8 References 157 7 Durability of fabrics and garments 161 L. Hunter 7.1 Introduction 161 7.2 Abrasion resistance 165 7.3 Fabric and garment strength 174 7.4 Effects of dyeing and fi nishing on fabric strength 193 7.5 Modelling and predicting fabric strength 194 7.6 Sources of further information and advice 195 7.7 Concluding remarks 195 7.8 References 195 8 Physiological comfort of fabrics and garments 201 J. Fan 8.1 Introduction 201 8.2 Different aspects of clothing physiological comfort 202 8.3 Tactile comfort 202 8.4 Assessment of tactile comfort 208 8.5 Thermophysiological comfort 211 8.6 Liquid water transport properties of fabrics and clothing 227 8.7 Garment fi t and ease of body movement 234 8.8 Pressure comfort 238 8.9 Concluding remarks 242 8.10 References 242 9 Psychological comfort of fabrics and garments 251 J. Fan 9.1 Introduction 251 9.2 Assessment of psychological comfort 252 9.3 Factors affecting psychological comfort 254 9.4 Effects of colour and surface texture 254 9.5 Effect of garment design 257 9.6 Effects of garment sizing and fi t 258 9.7 Fashion and prejudice 258 9.8 Concluding remarks 258 9.9 References 259 viii Contents 10 Flammability of fabrics and garments 261 J. Fan and L. Lau 10.1 Introduction 261 10.2 Burning mechanisms 261 10.3 Index for burning behaviour of textiles 262 10.4 Effects of fi bre composition, structure and properties 264 10.5 Effects of yarn structure and properties 267 10.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 270 10.7 Effects of fi bre, yarn and fabric processing parameters 271 10.8 Effect of garment design 274 10.9 Test methods and standards for textiles and apparel 275 10.10 Concluding remarks 280 10.11 References 280 11 Waterproofi ng and breathability of fabrics and garments 283 L. Hunter and J. Fan 11.1 Introduction 283 11.2 Defi nitions 285 11.3 Measurement of waterproofi ng and breathability 286 11.4 Engineering fabric and garment breathability 289 11.5 Fabric fi nishes 298 11.6 Construction of showerproof garments 300 11.7 Comparative fabric and garment properties 304 11.8 Sources of further information and advice 304 11.9 Concluding remarks 305 11.10 References 305 12 Ultraviolet protection of fabrics and garments 309 L. Hunter 12.1 Introduction 309 12.2 Measurement of UV protection 318 12.3 Effects of fi bre properties 324 12.4 Effects of yarn properties 327 12.5 Effects of fabric structure and properties 327 12.6 Effects of dyeing, fi nishing and other chemical treatments 330 12.7 Sources of further information and advice 333 12.8 Concluding remarks 333 12.9 References 334 Contents ix 13 Laundry performance of fabrics and garments 339 L. Lau and J. Fan 13.1 Introduction 339 13.2 Laundering 340 13.3 Care labels 340 13.4 Effects of fi bre composition, structure and properties 341 13.5 Effects of sewing thread linear density 348 13.6 Effects of fabric structure and properties 348 13.7 Effects of colouration and fi nishing 351 13.8 Effect of garment design 353 13.9 Test methods and standards related to laundering and care labelling 356 13.10 Concluding remarks 358 13.11 References 358 14 Applications of artifi cial intelligence in fabric and garment engineering 361 J. Fan 14.1 Introduction 361 14.2 Expert systems 362 14.3 Artifi cial neural networks (ANNs) 365 14.4 Concluding remarks 378 14.5 References 379 Index 383