1 Mexico Diary, 1937 by Emil Witschi Edited by Thomas F. Potter [Don’t miss the photographs! See http://www.daisyfield.com/1937/ ] INTRODUCTION........................................................................................................................................2 PURPOSE OF TRIP, WHO WAS INVOLVED?....................................................................................................2 TRIP SUMMARY..........................................................................................................................................3 RELATIONS WITH MEXICAN PEOPLE...........................................................................................................4 THE PHOTOGRAPHS.....................................................................................................................................4 THE MANUSCRIPT.......................................................................................................................................5 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS...............................................................................................................................6 THE DIARY..................................................................................................................................................7 AUG 06, FRI: IOWA CITY.....................................................................................................................7 AUG 07, SAT: TRAVELING....................................................................................................................7 AUG 08, SUN: BATON ROUGE...............................................................................................................7 AUG 09, MON: BATON ROUGE (AND NEW ORLEANS)............................................................................7 AUG 10, TUE: BATON ROUGE – ALICE, TEXAS.....................................................................................7 AUG 11, WED: ALICE, TEXAS – LAREDO – MONTEREY..........................................................................8 AUG 12, THU: MONTEREY – TROPIC OF CANCER – TAMAZUNCHALE....................................................8 AUG 13, FRI: TAMAZUNCHALE – MEXICO CITY..................................................................................9 AUG 14, SAT: MEXICO CITY (INSTITUTO BIOLOGICA CHAPULTEPEC)................................................10 AUG 15, SUN: MEXICO CITY (MUSEUMS, BULLFIGHT).......................................................................10 AUG 16, MON: MEXICO CITY – PUEBLA..............................................................................................11 AUG 17, TUE: PUEBLA (AND CHOLULA).............................................................................................12 AUG 18, WED: PUEBLA – ORIZABA – TEHUACÁN –OAXACA...............................................................12 AUG 19, THU: OAXACA (AND MONTE ALBAN)...................................................................................13 AUG 20, FRI: OAXACA – TLACOLULA – MITLA – TOTOLAPAN..........................................................14 AUG 21, SAT: TOTOLAPAN – SAN CARLOS YAUTEPEC.......................................................................14 AUG 22, SUN: SAN CARLOS YAUTEPEC – SAN BARTOLO....................................................................15 AUG 23, MON: SAN BARTOLO (FIESTA OF TEACHERS).........................................................................16 AUG 24, TUE: SAN BARTOLO (FIESTA CONTINUES)............................................................................16 AUG 25, WED: SAN BARTOLO – TEQUISISTLAN...................................................................................17 AUG 26, THU: TEQUISISTLAN – MIXTEQUILLA....................................................................................18 AUG 27, FRI: MIXTEQUILLA AND TEHUANTEPEC...............................................................................19 AUG 28, SAT: TEHUANTEPEC (MOUNTAINS, FIRST RAIN)..................................................................20 AUG 29, SUN: TEHUANTEPEC (VISIT TO RUINS)..................................................................................20 AUG 30, MON: TEHUANTEPEC – SALINA CRUZ....................................................................................21 AUG 31, TUE: SALINA CRUZ...............................................................................................................22 SEP 01, WED: TEHUANTEPEC..............................................................................................................22 SEP 02, THU: TEHUANTEPEC – COATZACOALCOS..............................................................................23 SEP 03, FRI: COATZACOALCOS.............................................................................................................24 SEP 04, SAT: COATZACOALCOS (SIDE TRIPS TO MINATITLAN, CHINAMECA)....................................24 SEP 05, SUN: COATZACOALCOS.........................................................................................................25 SEP 06, MON: COATZACOALCOS.........................................................................................................26 SEP 07, TUE: COATZACOALCOS.........................................................................................................26 SEP 08, WED: [COATZACOALCOS: CITY AND RIVER]..........................................................................26 SEP 09, THU: COATZACOALCOS RIVER..............................................................................................27 Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 2 SEP 10, FRI: AT SEA (GULF OF MEXICO)..............................................................................................27 SEP 11, SAT: AT SEA (GULF OF MEXICO)..........................................................................................28 SEP 12, SUN: ARRIVE AT NEW ORLEANS...........................................................................................28 SEP 13, MON: NEW ORLEANS – CAIRO, ILLINOIS................................................................................29 SEP 14, TUE: CAIRO, ILLINOIS – IOWA CITY......................................................................................29 APPENDIX: MEMORANDA....................................................................................................................29 p. 1. Tehuantepec, Salina Cruz notes............................................................................................29 p. 2. Tehuantepec, Salina Cruz notes (cont.)................................................................................29 p. 3 A book recommendation?......................................................................................................30 p. 4 Puerto Mexico notes.............................................................................................................30 p.259 Newspaper article about Cardenas.......................................................................................30 p. 360 Copy of restaurant bill.............................................................................................................31 p. 361 Address of Captain Wetta.........................................................................................................31 p. 363 Puerto Mexico jottings.............................................................................................................31 p. 364 Miscellaneous notes.................................................................................................................31 p. 367 Unidentified notes....................................................................................................................32 p. 368 San Bartolo notes.....................................................................................................................32 p. 369 (endpiece) San Bartolo (cont.).................................................................................................32 p. 370 (endpiece) Miscellaneous........................................................................................................32 INDEX.........................................................................................................................................................33 BIBLIOGRAPHY.......................................................................................................................................37 Introduction Purpose of trip, Who was involved? My grandfather, Emil Witschi (1890-1971), was a zoologist and professor at the University of Iowa, Iowa City, Iowa,1927[?]-1961[?]. In the summer of 1937, he and his student Allan J. Stanley made a trip of about one month to southern Mexico. During this trip Witschi kept a diary that is transcribed here. The trip was difficult and at times dangerous. An especially adventurous part of the trip consisted of traveling for 12 days on horseback through remote portions of Oaxaca State, from Oaxaca City southeast to Salina Cruz on the Pacific coast. Why would a successful university professor in mid-career undertake such a challenging trip during his summer vacation? One goal of the journey certainly was scientific: to collect biological specimens, mainly iguanas. Another was a personal interest in visiting pre-Columbian archeological sites. However, the manuscript reveals that a thirst for adventure was a key factor. Part of Witschi’s plan was to make photographs of people, places, plants and animals. To a large extent, the diary is simply a key to the photos. Witschi brought with him his Zeiss camera, and carried both black-and-white print film and Kodachrome slide film (first released for sale in 1936). About 500 black and white photos from the trip have survived as photographic prints and are identified in the diary and in notations on the prints and in Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 3 photo albums. Most or all of the original film strips also exist (see below). The manuscript shows that Witschi took many more black-and-white photos than color, in a ratio of roughly 10 to 1. Accompanying Witschi throughout the journey was a fellow zoologist and former Witschi student Dr. Allan J. Stanley (1899-1990), professor at the Louisiana State University, Baton Rouge. For the first part of the trip Witschi and Stanley also had the company of a young couple, George Hines Lowery (1913-1978) and his recent bride Jean Tiebout Lowery. Like Stanley, George Lowery was a zoologist at LSU1. Trip Summary For Witschi, the journey began in Iowa City on August 6, 1937. On that day he and his wife Martha Witschi (1890-1974) left their home and traveled (probably by train) to Louisiana. They arrived on August 7 or 8 in Baton Rouge, where they stayed with the Allan Stanley and his wife Ruth. The plan did not call for Martha Witschi to accompany her husband to Mexico; she probably returned to Iowa City after visiting for a few days in Louisiana. On August 10, four people set out from Baton Rouge in the Stanleys’ car: Emil Witschi, Allan Stanley, and Mr. and Mrs. George Lowery. They drove to Laredo, Monterey, Tamazunchale, and Mexico City. After two days of meeting scientists and visiting tourist sites in Mexico City, they drove on to Puebla and then to Tehuacán. Here on August 18, Witschi and Stanley parted with the Lowerys. Witschi and Stanley boarded a train to Oaxaca, while the Lowerys began the drive back to Baton Rouge in the Stanleys’ car. The most interesting part of the diary begins at this point. For the next 16 days, Witschi and Stanley proceeded on horseback, by bus (camion), and on foot through Oaxaca State from Oaxaca City to the port of Salina Cruz on the Pacific side of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Much of the area they traversed was wild and primitive, and is so even today. Witschi and Stanley spent (unwillingly) three days in the little village of San Bartolo Yautepec, where they observed and participated in a fiesta in honor of teachers. Here Witschi was forced to treat the wounds of two men seriously wounded in a knife fight, and he saw the body of a man killed by gunfire. At Salina Cruz, the travelers boarded a train and rode the trans-Tehuantepec railroad to Puerto Mexico (Coatzacoalcos). There they boarded a banana boat which returned them to New Orleans, after an interesting trip up the Coatzacoalcos River to pick up bananas. In New Orleans, Witschi’s son Hans met him and helped drive back to Iowa City. They reached their home on the evening of September 14. 1 [15, p. 1301] Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 4 Relations with Mexican People Emil Witschi was fascinated by Mexico’s diversity of plant and animal life, by her contrasting geographical regions, and by her ruins of ancient civilizations. But more than anything else, he was interested in the people he saw on the trip, and in their food, homes, animals, vehicles, etc.. In communicating with Mexicans, it helped that Witschi could understand Spanish quite well, although he was less skilled at speaking and writing that language. Most of the people he and Stanley met in Mexico were friendly and helpful. Nevertheless, negotiations for securing food, lodging, guides, and pack animals often were difficult. When several Mexicans were chatting among themselves during such a business negotiation, Witschi would sometimes feign total ignorance of Spanish in order to eavesdrop and learn their real intentions. Lack of punctuality drove him wild. Witschi was a professor in the Germanic tradition for whom strict adherence to an agreed-upon schedule was a central cultural value. (I remember this well from my childhood times with him.) On this trip, punctuality seemed all the more important because he faced some strict deadlines. He had to be at Coatzacoalcos (Puerto Mexico) by a specific date for the sailing of his ship back to New Orleans, and he had to be back in Iowa City in time to resume teaching duties for the fall term. Near the end of the three days that Witschi and Stanley spent unwillingly in San Bartolo Yautepec because of difficulties in securing a guide, my grandfather lost his temper and complained to Alfonso Cuellar, a man who had befriended and helped him, that “Mexico is a fine country, but people can not keep their promises. They shake hands and do not comply.” Cuellar was obviously hurt, but Witschi continued by stating, “Teachers ought to teach honesty.” I hope that my grandfather subsequently apologized for these unkind remarks, but I am afraid he did not. The problem of securing guides and horses was a special irritation. Apparently, in each village, the presidente (mayor) assumed the responsibility for helping the American professors get honest guides and good horses to take them to their next stop. If sometimes, the right persons or animals were not immediately available, then perhaps the presidente thought it would be impolite to say “no” to the impatient professors. Instead, I can imagine that the answer sounded like “maybe”, which Witschi and Stanley interpreted as “yes”. However, in all cases, the guides and horses that did finally appear were satisfactory, even if late. The photographs Nearly 300 photographs taken by Witschi on the trip may be viewed on the diary’s website, www.daisyfield.com/1937/ I have found some or all of Witschi’s original processed film strips. He used three types of film: Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 5 Film type Manufacturer Description Panatomic Kodak Black and white negative film Super X Pan Kodak Black and white negative film Kodachrome Kodak Positive color slide film About 500 black and white prints were made by Witschi from some of his photographs, and he placed these prints in 4 photo albums. From these, I have selected 230 images for inclusion in this edition of the diary. I rejected photographs for any of the following reasons: (a) poor lighting or focus, (b) duplication or near-duplication of other photographs, or (c) unidentifiable subject. I created all black-and-white images reproduced here by scanning prints from the photo albums. One might obtain better results by scanning the original film strips, but that is a project for the future. I have also included about 50 of Witschi’s Kodachrome photographs, which were among the first ever made in Mexico, since Kodachrome had only been introduced in the year before Witschi’s trip. In the first 2 of the 4 photo albums, Witschi provided hand-written captions for most of the photographs. Unfortunately, he abandoned this practice in the final 2 albums; therefore, the identification of the subjects of these later images is problematic. However, in most cases, the diary provides sufficient clues. The manuscript Witschi wrote the diary in a bound book containing 370 pages (only about 60 of which were used, the rest being left blank), 5 inches wide, 8 inches high, and 1 inch thick. Each entry in the diary appears on a single page having the day’s date printed at the top of the page. Almost everything in the book appears to have been written by Witschi during the trip. However, 3 or 4 pages contain notes that apparently were added later. Witschi inserted some of these interpolations in the 1970, about a year before his death. It may be that all later interpolations date from that year. The diary is in English, although Witschi’s early writings were all in German. Most entries are terse, incomplete sentences, often containing abbreviations. Witschi’s handwriting is idiosyncratic and hard to read, probably reflecting the fact that he often wrote in a hurry or in poor light. While working on this project I became proficient at reading his script; nevertheless, a few of my transcriptions are little more than guesses. All text and punctuation appearing between square brackets “[ ]” are comments that I have inserted as editor to describe something about nearby actual text. Question marks Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 6 enclosed inside square brackets indicate that the preceding word or words are either guesses or indecipherable. The footnotes are all mine. While transcribing the text, I have felt free to make the following types of changes: □ Changes in punctuation to improve readability □ Expansion of abbreviations to the unabbreviated form, as in expanding “Teh” to Tehuantepec □ Addition of a title to each day’s entry, as in “Wed, August 11: Alice, Texas – Laredo – Monterey” □ Occasional minor changes to spelling or grammar when it seemed necessary for understandability. Acknowledgements I am grateful to my friend Jerry Harder, a historian, for helping to identify several persons, places, and historical events. I also thank Maria Pilar Barreto for her wonderful translation of this diary from English into Spanish. And finally, I thank my mother, Marianne Potter, for preserving the diary and photos. .—Thomas F. Potter, March, 2007 Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 7 The Diary Aug 06, Fri: Iowa City Leave Iowa City with Martha. Aug 07, Sat: Traveling (No diary entry) Aug 08, Sun: Baton Rouge With the Stanleys (and Gladys, their colored maid) at Baton Rouge. Sightseeing on campus and around Capitol. Visit by Dr. Harry Bennet [Bennett?] and Mr. and Mrs. Lowery. Decide to go by car and return by boat. Stanley’s car will be driven back by the Lowerys. In the evening visit by Dr. and Mrs. Bradbury. Dr. Bradbury grew up at Mexico City, his parents still living there. –Outline of trip to Mexico City. Bradbury is a sociologist, for 2 years leave, studying social security plans of the governments (State of Louisiana. and federal). Aug 09, Mon: Baton Rouge (and New Orleans) Bring Martha and Ruth to New Orleans, St. Charles Street. Go to Mexican council, letters of recommendation, to General Weinberger, Mr. Arrginaya?, gives letter, 2 passengers fee from Puerto Mexico2 – New Orleans. Lunch with Martha and Allan at Arnaud’s. Trout à la meunière, good bottle of wine, (Nostiano) for little money. Aug 10, Tue: Baton Rouge – Alice, Texas Leave Baton Rouge, Mr. George Lowery, Mrs. George Lowery, about 7 A.M. Myself and Allan Stanley cross Mississippi by ferry. Through Louisiana with beautiful forests, Spanish moss, many birds, 2 species of aigrets3. Highway always near coast but one sees the sea but seldom. One night at Plaza Court Tourist Camps at Alice, Texas. 2 Puerto Mexico is the old name of the city of Coatzacoalcos, in Veracruz state. 3Aigrettes, or herons. Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 8 Aug 11, Wed: Alice, Texas – Laredo – Monterey Leave Alice, Tex. About 8:00. Plaza Courts Tourist Camps??? V (Clean, $1, with Stanley). □ Phot. II, 10/13 o Cactus and Locust shrub o Chocolate plants o “Chaparral” landscape □ 14 Laredo4, the Funkes5. Shy cat[??] Muriel. Guns had to be left with Mexican Customs; Zeiss, registered with U.S.A. customs. No good eating place. Were kept from 11 AM to 3PM. □ 15/19 o Dracaena6 and mountains on the way to Monterey. o Monterey before sundown, o Eat at elegant restaurant Sandborn7. o Waitresses mestizo in costume. o Afterward Hotel Monterey $am 1.40 (food). Mint Julep – Serenade: 2 violins, 1 guitar (large like cello, with 5 pegs, plucked only). Aug 12, Thu: Monterey – Tropic of Cancer – Tamazunchale Leave Monterey at 8. Road runs on plateau between two sierras. White clouds over western chain. Tropico de Cancer. 4 Nuevo Laredo, on the south side of the Rio Grande, in Tamaulipas State, Mexico. 5 Dr. and Mrs. Erich Funke, friends of the Witschis. Funke was a professor of German at the University of Iowa. Apparently they vacationed in Nuevo Laredo. 6 Leafy tropical plant. 7 The famous Sanborn’s chain of restaurants in Mexico had been founded in 1903. Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 9 Beautifully wooded sierras. Different types of tropical landscape, many flowers, especially acacia and red scrophularia8. Tamazunchale – house of the frogs. First anopheles9 on hand of George Lowery. Evening at sun down near Camp El Sol, km 371, 2 miles before Tamazunchale. Manager Jose Parrera tells of alligator hunting circa 4 miles down on the river. First bananas eaten that fully ripened on trees. Papaya not fully ripe. Squirrels. Aug 13, Fri: Tamazunchale – Mexico City Most beautiful drive circa 2 hours up from Tamazunchale. Change to tropical landscape. Mountain, innumerable large morning glories, flowering shrubs and trees. Mountains mostly with woods, some cultivation; corn, many goats. Few turkeys. Higher up, more arid, Joshua trees (Dracena), Opuntia10 and cactus. Zimapán Cathedral Afterwards beautiful cactus: hedges and fields. Colonia11, Market scenes Afterwards, more and more cultivated; circa 30 km. from Mexico City meet German engineer from Hannover, works since 8 years for Siemens-Schubert Werke12 in Mexico. Mexico City. City limits police check, give us hitch hiker, man from Dept. de Salubriedad. Hotel Reforma, no rooms (min. 18 Pesos single room.) Hotel de la Borda 28 pesos daily, apartment for 4 (7 [Pesos] per person). 8 Wildflower related to snapdragon. 9 Mosquito capable of carrying malaria. 10 Prickly pear. 11 Probably Colonia de Venado in Hidalgo State, between Zimapán and Mexico City. 12 Siemens-Schubert Werke manufactured electric motors. Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM 10 Aug 14, Sat: Mexico City (Instituto Biologica Chapultepec) Morning 10 am, visit with Juan Zuiger13, Department of Fish and Game—circa 50 years old, studied 6 years in Germany, speaks English, German, French, Spanish—on my Fish and Game permit[???].. Fisheries congress will meet here (esp. Canada, USA). Has sent collection permits to Baton Rouge. Will make duplicates for Monday. Drive to Instituto Biologico Chapultepec, where we meet Prof. I. Ochoterena (speaks Spanish and French) and his associate and student in neurology (histology of neurological cytology [???]): Miss Amelia Samano Bishop. Very beautiful situation, flowers, palms, paintings, library, good and large old laboratories, very clean, excellent techniques. □ Lunch at Sanborn’s; crowded; □ Interlude of Muriel with Haciendero[?] from West coast; M. Blackburn; □ Banditi [?] Afternoon: □ Exterior of la residencia de Augustin Iturbide, 1832. □ 29: Cathedral:Through[?], with Miss Templeton, French guide, Flemish painter Pereins14, Zapotec caldera[?] etc.—Aztec ruins uncovered under where new building supposed to build (last Phot. III) Old Jesuit School with modern paintings [in] auditorium by Diego Rivera. Evening: Rossignol (injai[?]). Aug 15, Sun: Mexico City (Museums, Bullfight) Morning in National Museum. Cathedral entrance[??], Old Indian, Mexican. Natural History Museum (Museo de la Historia Natural) Calle de Chopin[??]. Hormiguero = anteater Tapir 13 Or Zuiser? 14 Simón Pereins (1540-1589); lived in Mexico from 1566 onwards. [See www.artnet.com] Mexico Diary, 1937, by Emil Witschi, edited by Thomas F. Potter © 2002-2007 Thomas F. Potter Document last changed: 7/16/2007 5:39 PM