ITIMEI DIH® BOCKS Other Publications: PLANET EARTH COLLECTOR'S LIBRARY OF THE CIVIL WAR LIBRARY OF HEALTH CLASSICS OF THE OLD WEST THE EPIC OF FLIGHT THE SEAFARERS THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF COLLECTIBLES THE GREAT CITIES WORLD WAR II HOME REPAIR AND IMPROVEMENT THE WORLD'S WILD PLACES THE TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF BOATING HUMAN BEHAVIOR THE ART OF SEWING THE OLD WEST THE EMERGENCE OF MAN THE AMERICAN WILDERNESS THE TIME-LIFE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF GARDENING LIFE LIBRARY OF PHOTOGRAPHY THIS FABULOUS CENTURY FOODS OF THE WORLD TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF AMERICA TIME-LIFE LIBRARY OF ART GREAT AGES OF MAN LIFE SCIENCE LIBRARY THE LIFE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES TIME READING PROGRAM LIFE NATURE LIBRARY LIFE WORLD LIBRARY FAMILY LIBRARY: HOW THINGS WORK IN YOUR HOME THE TIME-LIFE BOOK OF THE FAMILY CAR THE TIME-LIFE FAMILY LEGAL GUIDE THE TIME-LIFE BOOK OF FAMILY FINANCE This volume 1s one of o senes thot exploms ond demonstrates how to prepare vonous types of food, ond that offers m each book on mternot•onol anthology of great recipes. --------------------THEG OOD COOK------------------- TECHNIQUES & RECIPES ~heese BY THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS --------TIME-LIFE BOOKS/ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA-------- " Cover: Midway through the cooking process known os shirring (page 21 ), cream is poured over two eggs that hove been lightly set in o little buller on the stove lop. The upper Ioyer of while is still semiliquid; to cook it through, the dish will go briefly into o hot oven. iTsi mo ew-Lhifoel lyB ooowknse Idn cs. ubsidiary of CHIEF SERIES CONSULTANT in scholarly publications about food and cookery. TIME INCORPORATED Richard Olney, on Ameri Jean Reynolds, who prepared many of the dishes can, has lived and worked for the photographs in this volume, is from Son Founder: Henry R. Luce 1898-1967 for some three decodes in Francisco. She trained as a cook in the kitchens of Editor-in-Chief: Henry Anatole Grunwald France, where he is highly several of France's great restaurants. FRANCE: Michel President: J. Richard Munro regarded as on ot•thority Lemonnier, the cofounder and vice president of Les Choirmon of the Boord: Rolph P. Davidson on food and wine. Author Amities Gostronomiques lnternotionales, is o fre Executive Vice President: Clifford J. Grum of The French Menu Cook quent lecturer on wine. GERMANY: Jochen Kuchen GCEdhrioatouirrpmi aVal nicD,e i rEPexcreteocsuri:dt ievRneo t,Cl pBohmo Gomkrsoit:tv eJeeos: a Jna mD.e sM Ra. nSlehye pley bwoionkn ianngd S oimf tphlee aFwreanrcdh baesc ok efro otrda ipnheodt oagsr ao pchheerf ,in b suet vweroarlk Eeudr ofopre a1n0 cyoeuanrs Vice Chairman: Arthur Temple Food, he has also contrib tries before opening his own restaurant in Hom uted to numerous gastro burg. Anne Brakemeier is the co-author of three nomic magazines in cookbooks. ITALY: Massimo Alberini is a well-known TIME-liFE BOOKS INC. France and the United food writer and journalist, with o particular interest Managing Editor: Jerry Korn. Boord of Editors: George Stoles, including the influential journals Cuisine et in culinary history. His many books include Storie MCoanrlsinta Mblea,n Gn,e Pohrgiliep GW.. DPaanyineels, ,J Tohhno mPaasu lH P.o Frltaehr,e Grtye rJrry., Vins de France and La Revue du Vin de France. He del Pranzo aff'ltaliana, 4000 Anni a Tavola and Schremp, Gerold Simons. Planning Director: Dole M. is o member of several distinguished gastronomic 100 Ricette Storiche. THE NETHERLANDS: Hugh Jans has Brown. Art Director: Tom Suzuki; Assistant: Arnold C. societies, including L' Acodemie lnternotionole du published cookbooks and his recipes appear in o Holeywell. Director of Administration: David L. Harrison. Vin, La Confrerie des Chevaliers du To stevin and number of Dutch magazines. THE UNITED STATES: Julie Director of Operations: Gennaro C. Esposito. Director of La Commonderie du Bontemps de Medoc et des Dannenbaum, the director of o cooking school in Research: Carolyn L. Sackett; Assistant: Phyllis K. Wise. Groves. Working in London with the series editori Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, also conducts cooking Director of Photography: Robert G. Mason; Assistant: al staff, he has been basically responsible for the classes at the Grilli Palace in Venice, Italy, and at Dolores A. Littles. Production Director: Feliciano Madrid; planning of this volume, and has supervised the fi The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, West Vir Assistants: Peter A. lnchouteguiz, Koren A. Meyerson. Copy nal selection of recipes submitted by other consul ginia. She is the author of several cookbooks and Processing: Gordon E. Buck. Quality Control Director: tants. The United States edition of The Good Cook numerous magazine articles. Judith Olney, author Robert L. Young; Assistant: James J. Cox; Associates: Daniel J. McSweeney, Michael G. Wight. Art Coordinator: Anne has been revised by the Editors of Time-Life Books of Comforting Food and Summer Food, received her B. Landry. Copy Room Director: Susan B. Galloway; to bring it into complete accord with American cus culinary training in both England and France. In ad Assistants: Celio Beattie, Ricki Tarlow toms and usage. dition to conducting cooking classes, she regularly writes for gastronomic magazines. Robert Shoffner, Chairman: John D. McSweeney. President: Carl G. Jaeger. CHIEF AMERICAN CONSULTANT wine and food editor of The Washingtonian maga Executive Vice Presidents: John Steven Maxwell, David J. Carol Cutler is the author of o number of cook zine for five years, has written many articles on Walsh. Vice Presidents: George Artondi, Stephen L. Boir, books, including the award-winning The Six-Minute food and wine. Peter G. Barnes, Nicholas Benton, John L. Canova, Souffle and Other Culinary Delights. During the 12 Beatrice T. Dobie, Carol Floumenholt, James L. Mercer, Herbert Sorkin, Paul R. Stewart years she lived in France, she studied at the Cor don Bleu and the tcole des Trois Gourmondes, and with private chefs. She is a member of the THE GOOD COOK Cercle des Gourmettes, a long-established French The original version of this book wos created in London lor food society limited to just 50 members, and is also Correspondents: Elisabeth Kraemer (Bonn); Margot TEiumroep-Leaifen IEndteitornr:a tKioitn vaol n( NTeu dlleekrelann; dD)e Bs.igVn. Director: Louis a charter member of Les Domes d'Escoffier, Wash HSuospagno Joodn,a Ds,o Lroucthyy T .B Vacoounlg, oLreiss le(Ny eCwo lYemorka)n; M(Loornidao n); Klein; Photography Director: Pamela Morke; Planning ington Chapter. Vincenzo Aloisi, Josephine du Brusle (Paris); Ann Director: Alan Lothian; Chief of Research: Vanessa Kromer; Notonson (Rome). Chief Sub-Editor: lise Gray; Production Editor: Ellen Brush; PHOTOGRAPHERS Valuable assistance was also provided by: Jeanne Buys Quality Control: Douglas Whitworth John Elliott, based in London, trained at the Regent (Amsterdam); Hans-Heinrich Wellmonn, Gerlroud Bellon (Homburg); Judy Aspinall (London); Dione Asselin (Los Street Polytechnic. He has extensive experience in Stoff lor Eggs & Cheese: Series Coordinator: Liz Timothy; Angeles); Bono Schmid, Mario Teresa Morenco (Milan); Head Designer: Rick Bowring; Text Editor: Tony Allan; photographing a wide range of subjects for adver Carolyn T. Chubet, Miriam Hsio, Christina Lieberman Anthology Editor: Morkie Benet; Stoff Writers: Alexandria tising and magazine assignments, but his special (New York); Michele le Boube (Paris); Mimi Murphy [Rome). Corlier, Joy Ferguson, Ellen Galford, Thorn Henvey; interest is food photography. DDeesbigonrearh: MLitatornk; WSuablt-oEnd;it oRress:e aKracthiee rLs:lo Sydo,ll yS oCllrya wRfoowrdla,n d; BHoobr nKsoemy aarn ids Ma aLnocnhdeosnteerr wSchhoo torlasi noef dA artt. bHoeth s pthee ©©No 11 p99o88r00t TToiifmm tehe-is-ll iibffeeo IBonkote omrknsoa yItn iobcne. aA rle ll(p Nrrigoehddtuesc rrleaedns edinr)v Boe.dnV.y . form or by ony elec Design Assistants: Solly Curnock, Io n Mid son, Paul Reeves; cializes in food photography and in portraiture. tronk: or mechanical means, including information storage and re Editorial Deportment: Pot Boog, Kate Conn, Debra Dick, Aida Tutino, a native of Italy, has worked in Milan, trieval devices or systems, without prior written permission from the Beverly Doe, Philip Garner, Aquila Kegon, Molly New York City and Washington, D.C. He has won publisher, except that brief passages moy be quoted for reviews. Sutherland, Julio West, Helen Whitehorn Second printing. Revised 19B2. a number of awards for his photographs from the Published simultaneously in Co node. U.S. Stoll lor Eggs & Cheese: Series Editor: Gerry Schremp; New York Advertising Club. School end librooy distribution by Silver BurdeN Company, Assistant Editor: Ellen Phillips; Designer: Ellen Robling; Chief Morristown, New Jersey. Researcher: Juanita Wilson; Stoff Writer: Carol Dono; INTERNATIONAL CONSULTANTS TIME-LIFE is o trademark of Time Incorporated U.S.A. Researchers: Christine Bowie Dove (principal). Barbaro GREAT BRITAIN: Jone Grigson has written o number of FPFleoeglml oSiwncg,h ,Tr oeA innbnneo rR; GCeaiobdpeyyr, t C;C Aohorrtirs dAtiinsnsaeit soStarcsnh:t :u NyRlaeonrb;c eAyrts BsHiesetramrnnadt noD,n eA;s iPlglaincnteu rr:e bspooonkdse anbt ofourt tfhoeo dL oannddo nh Oasb sbeerevner os icnoceo k1e9r6y8 c. oArlraen R5F4oe1re idnNefoor rrItmnhf aoFtriamoirnab taaionbnko,su TtC iomonueyr- tlT,if Ceim hBeico-laoifgkeso b, oIlolink,o ipsle6 a0s6e1 1w rite: Coordinator: Alvin Ferrell; Editorial Assistants: Brenda Davidson is the author of several cookbooks and Harwell, Audrey Keir; Special Contributor: Susan Feller (text) the founder of Prospect Books, which specializes librooy of Congress CIP dolo, page 176. -----------------------CONTENTS----------------------- INTRODUCTION 5 A protean pair I Egg classes and grades I Buoyancy: A measure of freshness I Making a fresh cheese at home I A cheese buyer's primer /Tools for 19h1andlin g cheese I An array of soft and semisoft cheese I A sampling of firm and hard cheeses WHOLE-EGG COOKERY The basic methods I Frying: F~st cooking in shallow .. 2 fat I Deep frying: A route to cnsped whites I Soft-boding: Two approaches to tender whites I Firming whites for easy peeling I Poaching: Gentle heat for the unprotected egg I Steaming and baking: A reliance on integral garnishes WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS 31 The art of assembly /Garnishes that furnish body and flavor I A trio of basic sauces I Assemblies: Combinations 3 without limit I Stuffing and dressing hard-boiled eggs I Coating to counteract dryness I Soft-centered packages with crunchy outer crusts I A gleaming aspic ring BEATEN-EGG COOKERY 49 The many guises of scrambled eggs and omelets I An American approach to scrambling I Gentle cooking for a 74 custardy result I Scrambling eggs in aromatic blends / The classic omelet: A masterpiece in a moment I Flat omelets, thick and thin I Separating yolks and whites for a souffle effect CHEESE COOKERY A range of roles I Baking molded custards I Quiche: Custard in a case I Sturdy souffle puddings steeped in a sauce I A souffle wrapping for a savory filling I Fondue: Molten and mellow I A choice of pastry containers I Surprise parcels with savory centers I Pancake packages ANTHOLOGY 0~ RECIPES 91 Fried eggs 92 I Poached and mallet eggs 94 I Hard-boiled eggs 100 I Baked eggs 106 I Scrambled eggs 115 I Omelets 119 I Custards, puddings and souffles 133 I Pies and quiches 143 I Fondues and rabbits 151 I Special cheese presentations 155 I Basic cheeses 162 I Standard preparations 164 RECIPE INDEX 168 GENERAL INDEX/GLOSSARY 171 RECIPE CREDITS 174 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176 4 ----------INTRODUCTION- - - - - - - - - - c..A Protean Pair No foods excite more lavish praise than eggs and cheese. "All Traditionally, chickens were allowed to roam freely, existing cookery," effused the British author Henry Stacpoole, "rests on on a haphazard barnyard diet of grass, grain and insects. In the the egg. The egg is the Atlas that supports the world of gastron modern battery system, however, large numbers of chickens omy." Cheese, according to the American essayist Clifton Fadi as many as a million in some operations-are kept in indoor man, "is milk's leap toward immortality." cages so that all of the factors affecting egg production can be In terms of nutrition alone, their qualities are remarkable: carefully regulated. Temperature and light are rigorously con Both eggs and the milk from which all cheese is made are de trolled, and the birds are fed a diet of commercially produced signed by nature to be complete foods-egg for the unborn chicken feed, usually a blend of cereals and soy with added chick, and milk for the infant mammal. And while each is held vitamins, proteins and minerals. Because battery birds have in high esteem in its own right, eggs and cheese also make a such a well-balanced diet, their eggs are generally higher in superb culinary pair. When used together they produce innu quality than those that are produced by free-ranging birds. merable dishes indispensable to a cook's repertoire, from om No matter how it is produced, a top-grade, newly laid egg will elets to airy souffles like the one shown in preparation at left. contain a firm, round yolk, surrounded by a viscous white This book explores the multitudinous opportunities for sa technically known as albumen. Close to 90 per cent of the egg vory egg and cheese cookery. A guide on pages 8-9 explains how white is water; the rest consists of proteins. The proteins trap air the size and freshness of eggs are gauged. Pages 10-11 show a in a stable foam when the white is beaten-a quality exploited step-by-step demonstration of the home manufacture of a sim to the full in souffles (pages 76-81). ple fresh cheese, one that can be served on its own or incorporat Almost 20 per cent of the yolk is protein; the remainder is ed in such dishes as gratins and pies. The introductory section of composed of water, a plentiful supply offat, vitamins, minerals the book concludes with a primer for buying cheese and storing and a fatlike substance known as cholesterol. High levels of it, and describes 52 of the world's best-known cheeses. cholesterol in the blood are associated with an increased risk of Following the introductory section, three chapters deal with heart disease, and many doctors caution against eating large cooking eggs. Beginning with the basic methods of preparing quantities of eggs. However, the link between dietary intake or' whole eggs by frying, poaching, boiling, steaming and baking, cholesterol and the amount in the bloodstream is still unclear, these chapters go on to show how whole eggs may be used with especially because the body itself manufactures the substance. other ingredients to create assembled dishes, and then illus The proteins of both white and yolk thicken and solidify when trate the arts of scrambling eggs and omelet making. A final heated-but each at a slightly different temperature. The chapter features a range of dishes, from quiches to fondues, in white begins to coagulate at about 140° F. [60° C.], whereas the which cheese is a principal element-often with eggs as its yolk remains liquid until about 150° F. [65° C.], and does not support. The second half of the book is an anthology of 220 egg become firm until 160° F. [70° C.] is reached. This small differ and cheese recipes, chosen from the world's cookery literature. ence chiefly accounts for the astonishing variety of textures that good cooks can obtain from eggs. The effects are most obvious in The marvelous egg whole-egg cookery, where the aim usually is to produce a firm Eggs have been part of man's diet from earliest times. Wild white surrounding a much softer yolk. But in beaten-egg cook birds' eggs were no doubt a source of sustenance for primitive ery, too, texture can be all-important. The textural range of a man, as they are today for the last remaining hunter-gatherers. single omelet, for example, might include a liquid center, a cus- As early as 2500 B.C., however, the domestication offowl began . tardy mantle around this core, and a crisp exterior. to ensure a more predictable egg supply, and since that time the domestic hen has been carried to every corner of the globe. Milk transformed Chickens are naturally prolific layers. Selective breeding has Bel Paese is smooth and buttery while feta is crumbly and helped to increase their individual output to 200 or more eggs in tangy; Cheshire is firm and piquant while Parmesan is granu a year (a goose, by contrast, lays only 15 to 30 eggs in the course lar and nutty flavored. But whatever its final texture or taste of a year). Output has been boosted further by the battery-or might be, all cheese is composed of coagulated milk solids. As is mass-production-farming methods that were developed in the apparent by the rate at which fresh milk sours, coagulation can United States during the 1920s. be rapid; cheese making is a method of controlling and modify- 5 INTRODUCTION ing the coagulation process to yield a product capable of matur as Liederkranz, the curd is typically cut at half-inch [1-cm.] ing instead of simply spoiling. intervals. For a hard, granular cheese such as Parmesan, the The nature of the milk begins the determination of a cheese's curd is reduced to minuscule pieces and then further dried by taste and texture. While cow's milk is the most common source heating and stirring it. of cheese, sheep's and goat's milk are also used. Sheep's milk A number of cheeses-Cheddar, brick and Emmentaler, lends pungency to French Roquefort, for example; goat's milk among them- are put in presses to expel still more whey. Press gives a tangy undercurrent to Greek feta and French bucheron. ing establishes the shape of a cheese and its moisture content. In making cheese, any milk may be used whole or skimmed. To develop its flavor and texture, a cheese then may be set aside Whole milk produces cheeses with a creamy texture and a fat to mature for periods ranging from a few weeks to several years. content, measured as a percentage of the cheese solids, of about Under carefully controlled temperature and humidity levels, 45 per cent. Skim-milk cheeses have a lower fat content, but a various microorganisms act on the curds, breaking down fat, slightly rubbery texture. Other cheeses, such as the French dou proteins and other compounds to create a cheese's unique char ble and triple cremes, are made with cream-enriched milk; they acter. A blue cheese, for example, ripens from the inside out have a satiny texture and a fat content of 60 per cent or more. as mold spreads throughout the porous curds, producing dis All milk destined to become cheese must be curdled-broken tinctive greenish blue veins. Cheese such as Camembert and down into solid curds and fluid whey. The curds are made up of Brie are ripened from the surface inward by mold that forms coagulated casein, the principal milk protein, together with the an edible velvety rind. Appenzeller, Port-Salut, brick and Oka fat that the casein enfolds. The whey includes proteins, sugar and minerals, but it is more than 90 per cent water. Although a few cheeses, such as Norwegian gjetost and some Italian ricot tas, are made by heating whey until its solid matter coagulates, curds are the usual starting point. Curdling occurs naturally if bacteria already present in raw milk are allowed to flourish. As they grow in numbers, the bac teria produce lactic acid, which coagulates casein. However, to kill potentially harmful organisms, much milk now used for cheese making is first pasteurized-held briefly at a high tem perature. (A typical formula calls for the milk to be held at . 161.6° F. [72° C.] for 16 seconds.) Since heating kills the useful lactic-acid-producing bacteria, too, these have to be reintro duced by adding a bacterial culture, or "starter." Even so, cur represent another variation on surface-ripened cheese; during dling can be a slow business, and another coagulating agent, curing they are each washed at regular intervals with brine, such as rennet, is frequently added to accelerate the process. brandy or some other solution specially formulated to encour Rennet-an extract from the stomachs of unweaned calves age a particular type of mold, yeast or bacteria to grow on the speeds the separation of the curds and whey, and also converts exterior of the cheese. casein into an insoluble compound, thus yielding firmer curds. Because of this latter property, practically all cheeses destined for maturing are made with coagulating agents. An art becomes science The traditional method of separating the curds from the The great range ofc heeses developed over the centuries is large whey-and the method commonly used to produce fresh, home ly a result of customs and conditions prevailing at the local made cheese (pages 10-11)-is to allow the curds to rise natu level-the availability of particular types of milk in a district or rally to the surface of the whey, then to hang the partially the presence of certain microorganisms. Roquefort cheese, for drained curds in a porous container so the remaining whey example, acquires its blue veins by being ripened in limestone drains off. Although a cloth or perforated-metal container is caves harboring the mold that is now identified as Penicillium normally used today, woven baskets were favored in classical Roqueforti. English Cheddar cheese owes its flaky texture in times, and these gave cheese its name in many languages. In part to a unique method-evolved in the village of Cheddar Greek, a basket isformos, which led to the Frenchfromage and for stacking and turning the blocks of curds. Eventually, the the Italian formaggio. The Latin word for basket, cascus, be methods and microorganisms responsible for the differences in came the German kase, the Dutch kaas, the Spanish queso and cheese were identified, and techniques were devised for apply the English "cheese." ing molds and bacteria artificially to cheese. As a result, cheeses Drained curds, perhaps embellished with cream or other fla that were once made in only one locale can now be produced vorings, can be eaten immediately. Additional processing steps, practically anywhere in the world. however, are required for cheeses that are to be aged. Even Nonetheless, cheeses with the same name produced in differ before these cheeses are drained, the curds may be cut into even ent places-perhaps according to different standards-may sized pieces to help expel more whey. The finer the pieces, the vary widely in flavor and texture. To guard the reputation of more whey will be released. To produce a moist, soft cheese such some of the finest cheeses, the world's cheese-making nations 6 signed an agreement in 1951 that allows certain names-in dry white wines, but they have enough body so that they will not cluding Roquefort and Parmigiano Reggiano- to be used only seem thin when served with a thick sauce. In addition, these when the cheese is produced in the place where it originated. wines generally have sufficient distinction to accompany a more Still other cheeses-including France's Brie, Italy's Provolone, formal egg dish, such as eggs in aspic (pages 46-47). Holland's Edam and Gouda-may be replicated elsewhere, but By contrast, the gastronomic links between wine and cheese the label must specify the country in which the cheese is made. have been, if anything, overstressed. These are not always the Along with the internationalization of many varieties of nat best of companions: The bouquet of a subtle wine may be killed ural cheese, technology has brought about the development by a strong cheese, or the flavor of an indifferent wine may be of processed cheeses. (These include the so-called American masked- a fact not lost on wine merchants who occasionally cheeses.) Typically, these begin with one or more natural offer such cheeses to prospective buyers before their less pre cheeses that are pasteurized to lengthen their storage life, and sentable vintages are tasted. For both wine and cheese to be then combined with emulsifiers to produce a uniformly smooth shown off to best advantage, they must be matched with care. texture. Colorings and preservatives may be added, and the The mildest of cheeses, such as Muenster, Monterey Jack and products that are labeled cheese spreads or cheese foods also young brick, are best served with a correspondingly delicate may contain flavorings and liquid or dry milk products to in wine-a rose or a light red, such as Beaujolais-that will not crease volume and create a moister, more spreadable product. overshadow the cheese's flavor. Cheeses with a little more as By United States government standards, only 51 per cent of the sertiveness can stand up to wines of greater character. Port finished weight need be the cheese ingredient. Processing yields Salut or Brie, for example, pair nicely with an elegant red such uniform cheeses that keep well, but they cannot duplicate the as a Bordeaux, as well as with a fruity white-including Cali strength of flavor and distinctive texture of natural cheeses, fornia Chenin Blanc and French Vouvray. The creamy texture which remain the best choice for cooking and eating. of Brie is also nicely reinforced by the rich smoothness of one of the fine whites from the Cote de Beaune region of France- a Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne, for example. Cooking with cheese Strong-flavored cheeses need fairly robust wines. A zesty Delicious when eaten straight from the wheel or wrapper, California Zinfandel or an Italian Chianti is a good companion natural cheeses develop a creamy texture and a more intense for sharp Cheddar. The tanginess of Roquefort finds a nice con flavor as they are cooked. Cheddars liquefy to a golden mass as trast in the sweetness of white French dessert wines such as they melt to form a Welsh rabbit. Grating cheeses-Parmesan Sauternes and Barsac; Stilton, the English blue cheese, is tradi- or Romano, for instance-disperse their pungence uniformly when they are stirred into casseroles, or create a rich brown gratin surface when sprinkled on top of foods and broiled or baked. The soft cheeses, from Brie to farmer, amalgamate with eggs and milk to produce the richest of custards. The overriding rule when cooking cheeses is to heat them briefly and gently. Overly high heat or prolonged cooking will toughen proteins, making the cheese rubbery, and will also draw out the fats in the cheese, making the finished dish oily. Cheeses should be added to such dishes as omelets or sauces close to the end of the cooking period. Cheese dishes that are baked in the oven should be cooked at moderate tempera tures- 3250 to 375° F. [160° to 190° C.]. When broiling cheeses, position the food about 3 inches [8 em.) from the heat source, and be sure to watch it carefully to prevent excessive browning. Serving wine with eggs and cheese Although eggs are not normally regarded as suitable partners for wine, the two can, in fact, go together very well. A rose or tionally served with vintage port. Extremely strong-smelling light, dry white can be a pleasant companion for many egg cheeses, such as Limburger and Liederkranz, are best with ale dishes-omelets or scrambled eggs among them. But the choice or beer, since their aromas would overpower a wine's bouquet. of wine should not be automatic. Because eggs are often used as When wine is to be served with more than one cheese at a a mild base to throw more assertive tastes into relief, the selec time-wit~ a cheese platter, for example-your own palate is tion of wine may depend on the garnishes or flavorings used in the best guide, because the wine will take on a different charac the finished dish. The logical accompaniment to poached eggs in te~ with each kind of cheese. The best strategy is to select the red wine sauce (recipe, page 95), for instance, is a red wine of wme first, then sample a variety of cheeses until you find those similar depth. A rich, creamy sauce is nicely offset by a Califor most compatible with the wine. The process ofd iscovery is likely nia Chardonnay or perhaps a French white Burgundy; both are to be a long and happy one. 7