UUnniivveerrssiittyy ooff KKeennttuucckkyy UUKKnnoowwlleeddggee Theses and Dissertations--Hispanic Studies Hispanic Studies 2015 EEaattiinngg SSppaaiinn:: NNaattiioonnaall CCuuiissiinnee SSiinnccee 11990000 Matthew J. Wild University of Kentucky, [email protected] RRiigghhtt cclliicckk ttoo ooppeenn aa ffeeeeddbbaacckk ffoorrmm iinn aa nneeww ttaabb ttoo lleett uuss kknnooww hhooww tthhiiss ddooccuummeenntt bbeenneefifittss yyoouu.. RReeccoommmmeennddeedd CCiittaattiioonn Wild, Matthew J., "Eating Spain: National Cuisine Since 1900" (2015). Theses and Dissertations--Hispanic Studies. 24. https://uknowledge.uky.edu/hisp_etds/24 This Doctoral Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Hispanic Studies at UKnowledge. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses and Dissertations--Hispanic Studies by an authorized administrator of UKnowledge. For more information, please contact [email protected]. SSTTUUDDEENNTT AAGGRREEEEMMEENNTT:: I represent that my thesis or dissertation and abstract are my original work. Proper attribution has been given to all outside sources. I understand that I am solely responsible for obtaining any needed copyright permissions. I have obtained needed written permission statement(s) from the owner(s) of each third-party copyrighted matter to be included in my work, allowing electronic distribution (if such use is not permitted by the fair use doctrine) which will be submitted to UKnowledge as Additional File. I hereby grant to The University of Kentucky and its agents the irrevocable, non-exclusive, and royalty-free license to archive and make accessible my work in whole or in part in all forms of media, now or hereafter known. I agree that the document mentioned above may be made available immediately for worldwide access unless an embargo applies. I retain all other ownership rights to the copyright of my work. I also retain the right to use in future works (such as articles or books) all or part of my work. I understand that I am free to register the copyright to my work. RREEVVIIEEWW,, AAPPPPRROOVVAALL AANNDD AACCCCEEPPTTAANNCCEE The document mentioned above has been reviewed and accepted by the student’s advisor, on behalf of the advisory committee, and by the Director of Graduate Studies (DGS), on behalf of the program; we verify that this is the final, approved version of the student’s thesis including all changes required by the advisory committee. The undersigned agree to abide by the statements above. Matthew J. Wild, Student Dr. Susan Larson, Major Professor Dr. Moisés Castillo, Director of Graduate Studies Eating Spain: National Cuisine Since 1900 DISSERTATION A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the College of Arts and Sciences at the University of Kentucky By Matthew J. Wild Lexington, Kentucky Director: Dr. Susan Larson, Associate Professor of Hispanic Studies Lexington, Kentucky 2015 Copyright © Matthew J. Wild 2015 ABSTRACT OF DISSERTATION Eating Spain: National Cuisine Since 1900 Analyzing cookbooks, gastronomic guides, literature and film, this dissertation outlines the creation of a Spanish national cuisine. Studying the works of Carmen de Burgos, Emilia Pardo Bazán, Dionisio Pérez, Ana María Herrera, Juan Mari Arzak and Ferrán Adrià among others, the project examines the evolution of this nationalist discourse by identifying common and recurring themes in an effort to extrapolate and describe the historical and cultural evolution of food from 1900 to the present day. Within the framework of Food and Cultural Studies, this project treats cookbooks, culinary manifestos and guidebooks as texts. Influenced by a variety of culinary and gastronomic of critics such as Roland Barthes, Arjun Appadurai, Benedict Anderson, Stanley Mintz and others, this dissertation analyzes nationalism through the perspective of gastronomy as a cultural practice that contributes to individual and collective identity building. This dissertation concludes that Spanish national cuisine has been defined as a unique, pluralistic blend of regional cuisines since the early twentieth century. While early authors such as Pardo Bazán admit to heavy French influence and the centralized hegemony of Madrid due to its privileged status as economic and political capital of Spain, most subsequent authors acknowledge that Spanish national cuisine is a construction of various regional influences and by the 1960s, this regional view of national cuisine is universally accepted. Shaped during the twentieth century by civil war, Francoism and globalization, Spanish cuisine today continues to be a blend of regional cuisines that mutually influence each other while also exhibiting the effects of a globalized world by incorporating non-Spanish ingredients and techniques into nationally accepted dishes. KEYWORDS: Spain, National Cuisine, Food Studies, El Bulli, Michelin Student’s Signature 12/3/2015 Date EATING SPAIN: NATIONAL CUISINE SINCE 1900 By Matthew J. Wild Dr. Susan Larson Director of Dissertation Dr. Moisés R. Castillo Director of Graduate Studies 12/3/2015 To Alex, Mom, Dad and Kristin ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to thank Dr. Susan Larson for her guidance on this project and throughout my time at Kentucky. Her help has been invaluable in my professional development. I would also like to extend my gratitude to my committee members, Dr. Kimberly Miller-Spillman and Dr. Matt Losada for their helpful reviews and corrections. I would also like to thank Dr. Rebecca Ingram for her participation in this project and for her Spanish Food Studies experience that she has shared. I also extend my thanks to my outside member, Dr. Lance Brunner. Thank you to both Suzanne Dunnai and Alison Atkins who graciously shared their work with me. I would like to thank the University of Kentucky Department of Hispanic Studies for their generous funding and travel grants as well as the Target Corporation in conjunction with the Department of Retailing and Tourism Management at the University of Kentucky for their scholarship. Thank you Alex for your support over these last five years. Thank you to my family for giving me lifelong support in everything. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Acknowledgements........................................................................................................ iii List of Figures................................................................................................................. vi Chapter One: Eating Spain: National Cuisine in the Twentieth Century....................... 1 Preface................................................................................................................. 1 Theoretical Framework and Literature Review................................................. 5 Food Studies and Literature, Linguistics and Geography................................. 14 The Current Project............................................................................................ 17 Chapter Two: The Spanish Foodscape.......................................................................... 21 What is Spanish Cuisine? A History................................................................. 21 The Cookbook and Gastronomic Writing in Spain........................................... 29 The Next Course................................................................................................ 46 Chapter Three: Austerity, Autarky and Hunger in Postwar Spain, 1939-1955............. 48 Hunger, Scarcity and the War........................................................................... 61 Wartime Cookbook Production........................................................................ 64 Cooking up the Shortage.................................................................................. 66 Menús de guerra: Writing the War Experience............................................... 74 The Official View.......................... .................................................................. 82 “Nanas de la cebolla” Onion Lullabies............................................................. 85 The Next Course............................................................................................... 92 Chapter Four: Modernity in Spain: Gastronomic Technology and Tourism, 1955-1975................... 95 Official Regional Views................................................................................... 95 Under Pressure............................................................................................... 101 Pressure Cooker History................................................................................ 102 In Spain.......................................................................................................... 104 Tourism Boom................................................................................................ 114 Eating Spain.................................................................................................... 117 The Next Course............................................................................................. 125 Chapter Five: Eros in the Kitchen: Sexual Culinary Liberation in Post-Franco Spain, 1975-1980.................................................................................................................... 127 Consuming Sex................................................................................................ 127 Sex Cookbooks: A New Genre?...................................................................... 131 Eating for Healthy Mind, Body and Soul........................................................ 135 iv Sexual Politics................................................................................................. 139 Sexual Eating.................................................................................................. 144 Eating Nationally............................................................................................ 146 The Next Course............................................................................................. 148 Chapter Six: The Alta Cocina Revolution: Spanish Michelin Cuisine, 1980-2014........................ 150 Vázquez Montalbán’s Culinary Nationalism................................................. 150 Spanish Alta Cocina........................... ........................................................... 151 El Bulli and the Redefinition of the Cookbook.............................................. 159 Spain: A Michelin Analysis........................................................................... 182 The Michelin Guide....................................................................................... 183 Michelin Stars and Urbanity.......................................................................... 187 Spanish Gastronomic Urbanity...................................................................... 190 Spanish Michelin Foodscape......................................................................... 191 The Next Course............................................................................................ 201 Conclusion: Economic Crisis in Food and Spanish National Cuisine...................... 203 Eating the Crisis............................................................................................ 204 Bibliography.............................................................................................................. 212 Vita............................................................................................................................ 224 v