EYEWITNESS DUBLIN Like a Local BY THE PEOPLE WHO CALL IT HOME 000011--000033__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 33 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5555 EYEWITNESS Contents DUBLIN 6 Welcome to the City 8 Through the Year 10 Know-How Like a 14 Neighbourhoods 16 On the Map EAT SHOP Local 32 Brunch Spots 88 Vintage Gems 36 Special Occasion 92 Indie Boutiques 40 Comfort Food 96 Gourmet Treats 44 Sunday Roasts 100 Irish Design 48 Global Grub 104 Book Nooks BY THE PEOPLE WHO CALL IT HOME 52 Seafood Spots 108 Take a Tour: An afternoon 56 Take a Tour: An afternoon of crate digging of Dublin’s finest food ARTS & DRINK CULTURE 60 Proper Pubs 112 City History 64 Cocktail Joints 116 Favourite Museums 68 Wine Bars 120 Art Galleries 72 Alfresco Tipples 124 Top Theatres 76 Coffee Shops 128 Classic Cinemas 80 Whiskey Dens 132 Culture Live 84 Take a Tour: An afternoon 136 Take a Tour: A morning on the whiskey trail exploring Dublin’s street art 000011--000033__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 33 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5555 000044--000055__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 44 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 meet the NIGHTLIFE locals 140 Cool Clubs 144 Live Music 148 Comedy Nights NICOLA BRADY Hailing from Sussex, Nicola has lived in 152 Karaoke Joints Ireland for 14 years – four of which 156 Late-Night Bites have been spent in dreamy Dublin. As 160 Take a Tour: An evening a travel writer, she explores the length of Irish craic and breadth of Ireland, eating as much OUTDOORS as is humanly possible along the way. When she’s not scoping out top foodie 164 Green Spaces spots, she’s trawling charity shops and 168 Beautiful Beaches strolling Dublin’s Georgian streets. 172 Scenic City Strolls 176 Rural Walks ÉADAOIN FITZMAURICE 180 Dreamy Viewpoints Éadaoin’s love affair with Dublin 184 Sporty Adventures started eight years ago, when she 188 Take a Tour: An afternoon cycle moved up for college from Arklow, Co. along the Grand Canal Wicklow. A social media coordinator by day, Éadaoin spends any spare time 190 Directory she has sampling (and drooling over) 192 Acknowledgments the city’s tastiest grub, braving the Irish sea with a swim and getting cosy in traditional pubs with her mates. 000044--000055__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 55 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 DUBLIN Dublin WELCOME TO THE CITY meet There are two kinds of Dubliner – those redbrick markets, weaving between who were born here, and those who shouted conversations in the street and the NIGHTLIFE choose to be here. The common spontaneous calls for a sneaky pint. locals 140 Cool Clubs denominator? A fierce feeling of loyalty In a city so small, it can be hard to 144 Live Music and pride, as well as a wicked sense of spot the decent places amid the tourist 148 Comedy Nights NICOLA BRADY humour. This is a place where everyone traps. But that’s where this book comes Hailing from Sussex, Nicola has lived in 152 Karaoke Joints you meet wants to stop and chat, whether in. We know the places that Dubliners Ireland for 14 years – four of which 156 Late-Night Bites you’re popping to the shop or nipping love, from the brunch spots they’ll wait have been spent in dreamy Dublin. As 160 Take a Tour: An evening out for a coffee. It’s also a place that’s all week for to the underground venues a travel writer, she explores the length of Irish craic had more than its fair share of hard times, for life-changing gigs. When it comes to and breadth of Ireland, eating as much but new ideas abound when times are the weekend, Dubliners aren’t visiting OUTDOORS as is humanly possible along the way. When she’s not scoping out top foodie tough – after all, the 2008 recession the Guinness Storehouse: they’re hopping 164 Green Spaces spots, she’s trawling charity shops and kick-started some of the most innovative between the best vintage boutiques 168 Beautiful Beaches strolling Dublin’s Georgian streets. cafés and bars that still thrive to this day. and indie galleries and plotting where 172 Scenic City Strolls If ever there were a city that could to get their fix of Korean fried chicken 176 Rural Walks ÉADAOIN FITZMAURICE charm your socks off, it’s Dublin. There’s or poitín cocktails. 180 Dreamy Viewpoints Éadaoin’s love affair with Dublin a palpable sense of charisma to the Whether you’re already a Dubliner 184 Sporty Adventures started eight years ago, when she place that ensnares anyone who visits – looking to unearth your city’s secrets, or 188 Take a Tour: An afternoon cycle moved up for college from Arklow, Co. a cheeky sense of “divilment” that you’re keen to discover a side that you along the Grand Canal Wicklow. A social media coordinator makes you feel like an adventure is won’t find in traditional guidebooks, this by day, Éadaoin spends any spare time always just around the corner. And the book will help you to embrace the city 190 Directory she has sampling (and drooling over) city’s compact size makes it all the with the wild sense of mischief that’s 192 Acknowledgments the city’s tastiest grub, braving the Irish sea with a swim and getting cosy in easier to explore, as you amble past woven into its very heart. Enjoy Dublin, traditional pubs with her mates. Georgian townhouses and Gothic but do it the local way. 6 000044--000055__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 55 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 000066--000077__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 66 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 WELCOME TO THE CITY Liked by the locals “Dublin may look like a city, but it’s got the heart of a village. And that’s what I love about it – everything is right at your fingertips, and you never know what the day will bring.” NICOLA BRADY, TRAVEL WRITER 7 000066--000077__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 77 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 WELCOME TO THE CITY DUBLIN From mass street parties in the summer to festive markets in the winter, there’s a cause for celebration with the dawn of each new season in Dublin. Dublin THROUGH THE YEAR the longer evenings (known locally as the “grand old stretch”), catching up Liked by the locals with friends on the grassy fields. SPRING “Dublin may look like a city, but ST PATRICK’S DAY it’s got the heart of a village. And After a brittle winter, it’s only right that the mother of all parties kicks off spring. This that’s what I love about it – SUMMER national holiday brings high spirits (well, everything is right at your it’s a day off work), and sees locals enjoy FESTIVAL FROLICS fingertips, and you never know the parade, crowd the streets in green Nothing defines Dublin’s convivial hats and mingle with a pint in the pub. nature like its summer festival season. what the day will bring.” Pride sees a riot of colour, Forbidden COUNTRYSIDE WALKS Fruit puts on the biggest music party, Surprisingly, spring is often warmer Vodafone Comedy Festival brings NICOLA BRADY, TRAVEL WRITER than summer, so locals embrace the the craic and The Big Grill provides milder weather by migrating to the tasty BBQ treats. coast or mountains for a walk. SEA SWIMS PARK PICNICS You’re not a proper Dub until you’ve Seduced by the rises in temperature in leapt into the bracing waters of the Irish April, youngsters flock to the city’s parks Sea come summer. Teenagers jump with picnic baskets in tow. They enjoy in at the Forty Foot in Sandycove to 7 8 000066--000077__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 77 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 000088--000099__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 88 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 THROUGH THE YEAR celebrate the end of exams while hardy Dublin Theatre Festival and Fringe, swimmers (some even in the nude) while the curious are drawn to Culture brave Hawk Cliff in Dalkey. Night for free gigs and literary events. OUTDOOR CINEMAS HALLOWEEN HAPPENINGS Free open-air cinemas spring up across Dubliners go all out for Ireland’s most the city as soon as balmy nights hit. ancient festival. They dress up for Locals spread out on blankets and themed nights out, enjoy theatrical enjoy classic films with a bite to eat parades and celebrate with spooky (courtesy of tempting food trucks) in readings at the Bram Stoker Festival. popular Merrion Square. FLEA MARKETS GALORE Antique lovers and fashionistas hit the WINTER flea markets that begin to pop up at the start of June, from the Dublin Flea FESTIVE LIGHTS on Thomas Street to the sustainable Light displays mark the start of the fashion fairs in the Workman’s Club. Christmas season across the city. Workers walk over illuminated bridges on the way home while families admire the projections covering iconic buildings. AUTUMN WEEKEND MARKETS FIRESIDE PINTS Wrapped-up locals swarm to markets When the nights draw in and the rain to pick up locally made pieces for gifts pours, the pubs light their turf fires and – high-end at the RDS Irish Design Fair locals cosy up by the hearth with a pint. and funky at the Christmas Flea. CULTURAL TOURS NEW YEAR’S EVE September sees Dubliners head Dubliners ring in the new year with a indoors for a dose of culture. Theatre knees-up: at the countdown concert, lovers head to both big venues and tiny with a singalong in their local boozer pop-ups to see new plays courtesy of or with family and friends at home. 9 000088--000099__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 99 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 THROUGH THE YEAR DUBLIN celebrate the end of exams while hardy Dublin Theatre Festival and Fringe, There’s an art to being a Dubliner, from the dos and swimmers (some even in the nude) while the curious are drawn to Culture don’ts in the pub to negotiating the city’s medieval brave Hawk Cliff in Dalkey. Night for free gigs and literary events. streets. Here’s a breakdown of all you need to know. OUTDOOR CINEMAS HALLOWEEN HAPPENINGS Free open-air cinemas spring up across Dubliners go all out for Ireland’s most Dublin the city as soon as balmy nights hit. ancient festival. They dress up for Locals spread out on blankets and themed nights out, enjoy theatrical KNOW-HOW enjoy classic films with a bite to eat parades and celebrate with spooky (courtesy of tempting food trucks) in readings at the Bram Stoker Festival. popular Merrion Square. For a directory of health and safety drinks for your group, which each person FLEA MARKETS GALORE resources, safe spaces and accessibility reciprocates – is an unspoken rule. If you Antique lovers and fashionistas hit the information, turn to page 190. For need an extra seat to accommodate your WINTER flea markets that begin to pop up at everything else, read on. party and see a spare stool, don’t just take the start of June, from the Dublin Flea FESTIVE LIGHTS it – ask the people on that table first. on Thomas Street to the sustainable Light displays mark the start of the EAT Last call for bevs is 11:30pm Monday fashion fairs in the Workman’s Club. Christmas season across the city. Dubliners rarely eat breakfast out, so it’s to Thursday, 12:30am on Friday and Workers walk over illuminated bridges unusual for cafés to open before 9:30am. Saturday, and 11pm on Sundays, on the way home while families admire As for brunch? They can’t get enough of always with a half-hour “drinking-up the projections covering iconic buildings. it, and cafés start to buzz from around time”. Don’t expect happy hours (they’re 11am – if you arrive any later, prepare to illegal in Ireland); do expect some AUTUMN WEEKEND MARKETS wait for a table. Dinner, eaten around tourist pubs in Temple Bar to sneakily FIRESIDE PINTS Wrapped-up locals swarm to markets 7:30 or 8pm, is the biggest meal of the raise prices after 11pm. When the nights draw in and the rain to pick up locally made pieces for gifts day and reservations go quickly, so book pours, the pubs light their turf fires and – high-end at the RDS Irish Design Fair ahead. Vegan? Mention this when you SHOP locals cosy up by the hearth with a pint. and funky at the Christmas Flea. book (unless, of course, it’s a vegan spot). Shops – particularly boutiques – open a little later, at around 10 or 11am. On CULTURAL TOURS NEW YEAR’S EVE DRINK Sundays, smaller shops are either closed September sees Dubliners head Dubliners ring in the new year with a Pub culture is big business. After-work or only open for the afternoon. Consider indoors for a dose of culture. Theatre knees-up: at the countdown concert, beers are common, but Dubliners supporting the city’s time-honoured lovers head to both big venues and tiny with a singalong in their local boozer tend to save the serious session for after independent businesses as much as pop-ups to see new plays courtesy of or with family and friends at home. dinner. The culture of a “round”– buying possible (a friendly natter with shop 9 10 000088--000099__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 99 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566 001100--001133__LLAALL__DDuubblliinn..iinndddd 1100 0055//0077//22002211 1155::5566