Navigation Tips All bookmarks (on the left side of your screen) are links that will taek you directly to the front matter, chapters, appendices, and bac k matter (moev your mouse oev r a bookmark and click once). All items in the Contents, List of Illustrations, List of Talb es , and iL st of Appendices p( ages iii throgu h iv i ) are directly linek d to the refer- enced text. To access any of these, simply point to the listing with your mouse and click once. To return to the Table of Contents, click on one of the bookmarks on the left. To access the previously vieew d page, press the ATL eK y + the Left Arro. w DYEING FOR A LIVING A History of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists: 1921–1996 Mark Clark, Ph.D. Oregon Institute of Technology A C A T C AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS O. P Box 1221 ,5 eR search Triangle Park, NC 207 , 9 AUS Tel: 19 8/1959-4 14 ; Fax: 9194-/3598 3 9 eW b Site: http:/w .waw atcc.org i Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. No part of this plbu ication may eb reprodcu ed , stored in a retrieav l system , or transmitted in any form without the express permission of the copyright owner. Published by AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS eR search Triangle Park, North Carolina ii Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Contents Page iL st of lI lustrations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .iv iL st of Talb es ........ .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . v iL st of Appendices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vi dE itor’s rP eface. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . iv ii Author’s rP eface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x Part I—The Olney Era (1921–1945) 1. Textile Chemistry in the nU ited tS ates eB fore 129 1 ...... ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2. Louis A . lO ney and the AATCC 1( 29 1–129 )8 ..... . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 . 3 eR search and eD ev lopment 1( 29 1–1)549 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 .4 The Loew ll eY ars 1( 29 –7 1)549 .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 3 Part II—Growth and Independence (1946–1972) .5 yS nthetic iF eb rs and the AATCC 1( –549 1)659... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 6 6 . Getting the oW rd Out: AATCC and the American Dyestuff Reporter 1( 29 1–1)759 ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 9 . 7 Adsuj ting to Change 1( –759 1)369 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109 .8 eN w oG als , eN w tS rategies: The oM ev to North Carolina 1( –859 1)469 . . . . . . . . .129 .9 The oB om eY ars 1( –369 1279 ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 10. Taik ng Charge : nE ding the eR lationship iw th oH ew s lbuP ishing Company 1( –859 1079 ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196 Part III—Coping with Change (1973–1996) 11. Textile Chemist and Colorist 1( –969 1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 12. The Energy Crisis and the nE iv ronment (1–379 1)389 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207 1.3 hS ort Coru ses for the Trade 1( –569 1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221 1.4 eM eting the nI ternational Challenge 1( –489 1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213 Part IV—A Reason for Being (1921–1996) 1.5 Test eM thod eD ev lopment : Three Case tS du ies (129 2–1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 muS mary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256 pE ilogeu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257 Appendices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238 sE say on oS ru ces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 3 iB lb iography. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 7 nI dex .......... . . . .. .. . . .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. .. .. ... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 4 iii Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists List of Illustrations Pictures Page Loiu s A . lO ney , oF nu der of the AATCC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiv i Engineers Club, Boston, Site of the First Meeting of the AATCC, oN ev meb r ,3 129 1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Louis A . Olney with Sir William Henry eP rkin at The Country Club, rB oolk ine , aM ssachsu etts , cO toeb r 11 , 109 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 A . . P Hoew s, publisher of the American Dyestuff Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Earliest Knonw Photo of an AATCC Meeting (Second Annual Meeting) oH tel eP nnsylav nia , eN w oY rk , eD cemeb r 2 , 129 2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 aE rly FademO- eter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 The lO ney Medal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Loew ll Textile School, First Home of the AATCC, Loew ll, Massachusetts c( a . 1049 ) ..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6 AATCC Laob ratory at Loew ll Textile cS hool c( a . 1)649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 07 Harold . W Stiegler, iD rector of eR search (1945 –1069 ). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 eG orge .J aM ndiok s , Technical iD rector 1( 169 –1)589 ...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 lF ammaib lity Test Apparatsu ...... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 8 aB sic tS eps in eD ev loping Test eM thods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 aH rold C . Chapin , Secretary 1( 393 –1)859 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 aH rold Chapin eR ceiiv ng iF rst Aaw rd aN med in iH s oH nor 1( )959 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .127 AATCC Technical Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 64 eD dication of AATCC Technical Center , April 2,4 1469 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174 George . P Paine, Executiev iD rector (1956 –1)379 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 iW lliam .R aM rtin , rJ . , xE ectu iev iD rector 1( 379 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 eJ rry G . Te , w Technical iD rector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Textile Chemist & Colorist , iF rst sI seu , aJ nuary 1, 1969 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 aJ c k iK ssiah , dE itorial iD rector 1( 769 –1)39 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 iW lliam .B aD iv s , Adev rtising iD rector. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 suS an .H eK esee, dE itorial iD rector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 eH nry .E iM llson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 .J iW lliam eW aev r. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 eH rman and yM rtle oG ldstein , iw th tS du ent aP per rP esenters. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 eP ggy iP cek tt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223 aK thy oJ nes eP ndiz aw ter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Changes in AATCC Membership (1921 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 iW lliam .R aM rtin , rJ . , eR ceiiv ng oH norary eM meb rship , aM y 21 , 169 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273 oJ hn . Y aD niels , xE ectu iev iD rector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273 aE rly Lanu dermO- eter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 iF rst Crocmk eter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 eN lson oH su er . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Charles E . aG iv n I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228 oJ hn aD rsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228 iv Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists List of Tables Page 1-3 . eM meb r nI terest in aV riosu eR search Topics Based on a ruS ev y Taek n eF rb au ry 129 9 ........ . .. . . . . .. .. .. . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3 3 -2. New eR search Subcommittees oF rmed (1923 –1039 ) ..... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3 1-4 . aP ttern of AATCC eR search nuF ding from 129 5 to 1649 ... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 2-4 . Articles lbuP ished yb the eR search Committee 1( 29 2 –1)549 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 05 4-3. Intersectional Paper Competition —oB x cS ore as of 1699 ..... . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 5 5 -1. AATCC eR search eP rsonnel at Loew ll Textile Institute (1944 –1069 ) ..... .. . . . . . . . 4 7 11-1. Comparison of Pages ublP ished in ADR vs. TCC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159 121- . Adev rtising aP ges in TCC vs. ADR 1( 969 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 14-1. umN ber of Symposia and oW rkshops (1983 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .283 14-2. Comparison of Types of Exhibitors at General Meetings 1( 079 , 1 ,689 1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 v Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists List of Appendices Organization Page 1. Administratiev fO fices and Committees 1( )69. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258 2. The Presidents (129 1 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278 3. Other Officers (1921 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 4. Councilorsa- t-Large (1921 –1049 ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 1 5. Councilors (1094 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 3 6. eR search Committees (1923 –1)699 ... . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 3 7 . Technology Committees (1963 –1)699 .... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 3 3 . 8 Laob ratory aM nagers of the AATCC Technical Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143 .9 AATCC tS aff rO ganiaz tion (1)699 ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 4 3 Sections 10. Section aD tes.......... . . .. . . . .. .. .. .. . .. .. .. .. ... .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 3 11. Local Section oB nu daries (1)699 .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 3 12. Section Chairmen 1( 923 –1)699 .... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4 3 Membership Profiles 1.3 Types of eM meb r mE ployment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 1.4 oF rmal Edcu ation of eM meb rs ....... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 6 3 1.5 eR gional Affiliation of eM meb rs ....... . . .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 6 3 1.6 tS du ent Chapters ........ .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 3 6 The Association’s Work 17. eG neral Meetings of the Association (1921 –1)699 ..... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 6 3 18. Typical Publications by AATCC eR search eP rsonnel (1922 –1)749 ... .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 3 1.9 AATCC oW rkshops 1( 569 –1)699 .... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 3 20. AATCC Symposia (1966 –1)699 ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7 3 21. AATCC Publications (1921 –1)699.... . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 3 22. AATCC Standard Test Methods (1925 –1)699... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 8 3 23. AATCC aEv luation Procedures (1954 –1)699 ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 9 3 Financial Development of the Association 24. iF nancial Deev lopment of the Association (1922 –1)599 ..... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 9 3 vi Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Awards and Honors Page 25. The Olney Medal (194 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 1 26. The Harold C. Chapin Aaw rd (1959 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 3 27. The Henry E. Millson Aaw rd for Inev ntion (1980 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 5 28. Aaw rd for Best Paper Published in American Dyestuff Reporter (1925 –1)39 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 7 29. Intersectional Technical Paper Competition, 1940 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .04 9 30. The American Dyestuff eR porter Aaw rd (1951 –1)869 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 3 31. The J. William eW aev r Aaw rd (1980 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 5 32. The Herman and Myrtle Goldstein Student Paper Competition (1982 –1)69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 7 .3 oH norary eM meb rs of the Association. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 9 .43 iL fe Memeb rs of the Association 1( )69 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 1 iv i Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Editor’s Preface The title of this history of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), “Dyeing for a Living, ” is based on a common pun often heard in the dyeing trade that is perhaps as old as the English language. The pun came into being before dictionaries of standardized spellings became widely used in the early 1800s, when the ow rds die and dye ew re used interchangealb y to refer to both the application of colorants to textiles and to the process of death. Specifically, the title aw s taek n from a series of business adev rtisements that ew re rnu in a Baltimore, Maryland, newspa- per in 1806 by dyer Charles Williams under the banner , “Dyeing for a Living. ”1 2 As an indsu try , the craft of textile dyeing has, oev r the centuries, provided liev li- hoods for countless thousands and has brought beauty and the joy of aesthetic appreciation to millions upon millions of people. eY t only in the past century or so has textile dyeing been transformed from a craft into a science, with the AATCC and its members playing major roles in that transformation. In particular, the Association is knonw for its consensus deev lopment of test methods relating to the textile ew t finishing industries, which are used ow rldwide. This story of the AATCC told so alb y yb rD . aM r k Clar ,k is one of modified goals, constrcu tiev conflict , and lasting accomplishment . The dream of its fonu der , rP ofessor Loiu s A . lO ney , to iub ld a professional organiaz tion of chemists and colorists that ow lu d , among its other actiiv ties , fnu d theoretical or ab sic research in textile chemis- try and dyeing aw s neev r flu ly realiez d . nK olw edge for nk olw edge ’s saek aw s not a poplu ar casu e among many memeb rs . oH ew ev r , dru ing its first tew ntyf- iev years or so, the Association employed flu lt- ime chemists to deev lop fnu damental nk olw edge in tex- tile chemistry and dyeing and to apply that nk olw edge in the ow rpk lace . A( listing of some plbu ications reslu ting from these research proej cts appears in Appendix 1 ).8 tuB as the infleu nce of the aging Loiu s lO ney aw ned , eev n applied research fell on hard times in the AATCC and yb 1 849 aw s iv rtau lly nonexistent . The paid position of research director aw s aob lished in 1069 . eY t ev stiges of the Association ’s original research mindedness remain , particlu arly in its organiaz tional names . To the reader of this history , these names colu d eb confsu ing at the least and , iw thotu explanation, might eev n misrepresent the Association ’s cru rent mission . Committees of ov lnu teers that do the technical ow r k to deev lop consenssu test methods for the indsu try are called eR search Committees . Collectiev ly , the chairmen of these committees form the Technical Committee on eR search , policy for hw ich is set yb the xE ectu iev Committee on eR search formed originally in 1 ,49 to set research policy and dub gets incldu ing personnel policies and salaries for the paid research staff . oH ew ev r , the present staff employee hw o has oev rsight of a ew ll eiuq pped auq lity control laob ratory in the AATCC Technical Center n( ot eR search Center ) and hw o coordinates ov lnu teer efforts of the research committees to deev lop standard test methods is titled Technical iD rec- tor . muN erical designations for test method committees carry the prefix “RA ” hw ich 1 Hereb rt T . Pratt, “Dyeing for a Living, ” Textile Chemist and Colorist , . v 22, n . 3, aM rch 1909 , pp. 29 –31. 2 As su ed here, the term “textile dyeing” encompasses allied arts and technologies scu h as printing , bleaching , chem- ical finishing , and dry finishing. iv ii Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists means eR search Actiev . Technology Committees , the fnu ction of hw ich is trade edcu a- tion in specific disciplines rather than deev loping test methods , neev rtheless also carry research R(A ) committee designations . To emphasiez these differences in fnu c- tion , eR search Committees and Technology Committees are listed separately in Appen- dices 6 and ,7 althogu h this distinction has neev r eb en made iw thin the Association. In the text, committees and employee positions are referred to by their designa- tions of record . The ow rk of paid research staff before abotu 1095 is referred to as research or applied research, but all ov lunteer ow rk on test methods 1921 –1969 is 3 referred to as technical deev lopment or deev lopment. One other point needing clarification has to do iw th names used for yearly gather- ings of the membership at large as giev n in Appendix 1 7 nu der the broad term eG n- eral eM etings , hw ich ew re called Annau l eM etings throgu h 1 .959 The term Annau l eM eting no w refers specifically to the legally reuiq red meeting held primarily for the election of officers in connuj ction iw th the fall meeting of eR search and Technology Committees . All names su ed to designate the yearly gatherings and their dates follo.w 1921 –195 Annau l eM eting 1096 –1965 National Conev ntion 1696 –1079 aN tional Technical Conference 1917 oG lden ibuJ lee Conference 1297 –1579 aN tional Technical Conference 1679 nI ternational Technical Conference 1797 –1289 aN tional Technical Conference 1389 aN tional Technical Conference and xE hiib tion 1498 –196 International Conference and Exhibition eR gardless of the name, the pru poses of the General Meeting haev alaw ys been the same: to stimulate thinking, to conduct the Association ’s sub iness , and to proiv de opportunities for professionals to get to kno w one another. I recommend that readers rb osw e throgu h the Appendices as a nu it . The rosters of the history’s main characters—presidents , conu cilors , officers , aaw rd iw nners —iw ll remind them of people long forgotten and acauq int them iw th others they haev neev r nk onw . The lists of test method and technology committees , ow rsk hops , symposia , and aaw rd iw nning papers mirror seev ntyf- iev years of a changing indsu try : ne w technolo- gies , thorny prolb ems , solid grotw h , and ongoing indsu try efforts to deliev r to consmu - ers highauq- lity , fnu ctional prodcu ts . These lists also offer silent tritub e to the hnu dreds of nu named and largely nu snu g committee chairmen and memeb rs hw o spu ported the main characters of the story yb giiv ng faithflu ly of their time , talent , and technical sik lls. Their contritub ions haev eb en priceless . They too ew re “dyeing for a liiv ng. ” Herbert T . Pratt New Castle, Delaaw re luJ y 1989 3 To aov id future confusion, the dE itorial Adiv sory Board for the history has formally reeuq sted that the xE ecutiev Committee on eR search (ECR) deev lop and implement new terminology and position designations consistent with the Association’s current activities. Herbert T . Pratt to oR land L. Connelly Sr., Chairman, ECR, eF bruary 17, 197. ix Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Author’s Preface The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists A( ATCC ,) fonu ded yb Louis Atew ll Olney , professor of textile chemistry and dyeing at Loew ll (Massachu- setts) Textile School, aw s a little more than a year old when, in 1922, the seev nty attendees at the National Conference in New oY r k City posed for its first group pic- tru e on the roof of the oH tel eP nnsylav nia. In the clear noonday light of early Decem- ber , this gathering of all male, all white chemists, dyers, bleachers, finishers, and academics is a prosperous looking bunch —formal , in siu t and tie —the image of the college-educated elite of American society . The Association ’s officers lounge on chairs in front of the others. Olney , the Association ’s president and chairman of its research committee, is just to the left of center. He sits erect, hat perched on his knees, staring at the camera with an enigmatic look —half smile, half intellectual detachment. In time, Olney ow uld be virtually canonized by the members of AATCC, his name giev n to the Association ’s highest aaw rd, and his portrait painted and hnu g as a talisman in AATCC’s headauq rters . tuB on this day , he loosk less liek an icon than a confident man in his prime whose dreams ew re being fulfilled. The Associa- tion’s membership aw s increasing, and the day ’s program aw s full —enough papers to fill the morning session and the afternoon session as ew ll. Olney had found it exciting to found a new professional society , but in many aw ys this meeting aw s more satisfying. The technical papers presented that day ow uld be pbulished oev r the coming months and ow uld enhance the prestige of the Associa- tion as a truly scientific society. Chief among lO ney ’s colleageu s during the past year had been Elvin H. Killheffer, his vice president and president of Newport Chemical Company . Killheffer, who stands just to the right of the officers, had done much of the hard thinking so neces- sary to get the Association going. He had helped hammer out the constitution and bylaws and had led the planning for this meeting. Also it aw s he who had strcu k the bargain with the trade magazine, American Dyestuff Reporter (ADR), to publish the AATCC’s Proceedings, a relationship that continued until the AATCC established its own journal, Textile Chemist and Colorist (TCC) in 1. 69 Killheffer ow uld go on to serev as president of AATCC in 1928 –1390. But one of Killheffer ’s most significant contritub ions to the AATCC had nothing to do iw th his formal role in the Association. nI October 1943 , he conceiev d the idea of writing a rb ief history of the AATCC . eH sent letters to many of those who had been actiev in the Association ’s founding asking for their recollections of their roles. Although Killheffer neev r pbulished his ow rk, a preliminary draft and mcu h of the correspondence related to his projected history is filed in the AATCC archiev s. Most of this material is preserev d nowhere else. Although he neev r held the title, Killheffer aw s, in effect, the AATCC ’s first historian. eOv r the next half century , the Association continued to be ew ll serev d by mem- bers liek Killheffer who ew re interested in preserving its history and that of the industry. In 1956, the AATCC sponsored the American celebration of the centennial of the discoev ry of maeuv , the first synthetic dye, yb William Henry eP rkin. At the x Copyright © 2001 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists