UUUVVV PPPrrrooottteeeccctttiiivvveee aaannnddd AAAnnntttiiibbbaaacccttteeerrriiiaaalll FFFiiinnniiissshhh ooonnn CCCooottttttooonnn UUUsssiiinnnggg PPPlllaaannnttt EEExxxtttrrraaaccctttsss BBByyy VVVAAANNNDDDAAANNNAAA GGGUUUPPPTTTAAA (((222000111222HHHSSS111333DDD))) TTThhheeesssiiisss sssuuubbbmmmiiitttttteeeddd tttooo CCChhhaaauuudddhhhaaarrryyy CCChhhaaarrraaannn SSSiiinnnggghhh HHHaaarrryyyaaannnaaa AAAgggrrriiicccuuullltttuuurrraaalll UUUnnniiivvveeerrrsssiiitttyyy iiinnn pppaaarrrtttiiiaaalll fffuuulllfffiiilllmmmeeennnttt ooofff ttthhheee rrreeeqqquuuiiirrreeemmmeeennntttsss fffooorrr ttthhheee dddeeegggrrreeeeee ooofff DDDDDDooooooccccccttttttoooooorrrrrr ooooooffffff PPPPPPhhhhhhiiiiiilllllloooooossssssoooooopppppphhhhhhyyyyyy iiiiiinnnnnn TTTTTTeeeeeexxxxxxttttttiiiiiilllllleeeeee aaaaaannnnnndddddd AAAAAAppppppppppppaaaaaarrrrrreeeeeellllll DDDDDDeeeeeessssssiiiiiiggggggnnnnnniiiiiinnnnnngggggg III... CCC... CCCOOOLLLLLLEEEGGGEEE OOOFFF HHHOOOMMMEEE SSSCCCIIIEEENNNCCCEEESSS CCCCCCSSS HHHAAARRRYYYAAANNNAAA AAAGGGRRRIIICCCUUULLLTTTUUURRRAAALLL UUUNNNIIIVVVEEERRRSSSIIITTTYYY HHHIIISSSAAARRR --- 111222555 000000444 222000111666 CERTIFICATE I This is to certify that this thesis entitled, “UV Protective and Antibacterial Finish on Cotton Using Plant Extracts” submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, in the subject ofTextile and Apparel Designing,to Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar is a bonafide research work carried out by Vandana (Admission No. 2012HS13D) under my supervision and that no part of this thesis has been submitted for any other degree. The assistance and help received during the course of investigation have been fully acknowledged. Dr.Nirmal Yadav (Major Advisor) Professorand Head Department of Textile and ApparelDesigning, I.C. College of Home Sciences, CCS Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar-125004, India CERTIFICATE II This is to certify that this thesis entitled, “UV Protective and Antibacterial Finish on Cotton Using Plant Extracts” submitted by Vandana (Admission No. 2012HS13D), to the Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, I.C.College of Home Sciences, Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana Agricultural University, Hisar, in partial fulfilmentof the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, in the subject of Textile and Apparel Designing, has been approved by the Student’s Advisory Committee after an oral examination on the same in collaboration with an External Examiner. MAJORADVISOR EXTERNAL EXAMINER HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENT DEAN, POST-GRADUATE STUDIES CERTIFICATE III FORMAT FOR P. G. THESIS “It is certified that the thesis submitted by Vandana, Adm. No. 2012HS13D, Ph.D. student of this department has been checked and found as per specification of the format circulated by the Dean, PGS vide his Memo No. PGS/A-1/09/6926-90 dated26.08.2009”. MAJOR ADVISOR PROFESSOR AND HEAD Acknowledgements It is the moment of great pleasure and immense satisfaction to acknowledge my debt to my teacher and my mentor Professor & Head, Dr. Nirmal Yadav for her support and guidance at every step. It is because of her priceless intellectual guidance, innovative and constructive ideas for having given me complete independence, a great sense of precision, parental care and ever smiling face are remarkable, affectionate encouragement to put my desire and thought, which paved the way for the successful fulfilment ofthis work. It is indeed my privilege to work under her guidance. With sincerity and immense pleasure, I express my indebtedness and deep sense of gratitude to Dr. Krishna Khambra, Professor, member of my advisory committee whose intellectual guidance, ever-ready help and cooperation gave me afillipto accomplish this manuscript.I would like to express my indebtedness to the other members of my advisory committee Dr. Rajveer, Professor (Chem. & Biochem.), Dr. Seema Rani,Professor(Extension Education & Communication Management)andDr. Manju Dahiya, Pr. Scientist (Extension Education & Communication Management) for their inspiration and critical suggestions foraccomplishmentofthis manuscript successfully. I am extremelygrateful to Dr. Parveen Punia, Dean (I.C.College of Home Sciences).Sincere thanks are also due to the other faculty members and staff of the Department of Textile and Apparel Designingfor their cooperation and timely help. Thanks are also due to Dr. Rakesh Kumar, Assistant Scientist, Department of microbiology, for providing me valuable guidance and providing me the lab facilities during the course of experimental work. I am obliged to Dr. Anshu Sharma, Senior Bacteriologist, College of veterinary scientist, LUWAS) and Bhupender Singh (Lab Technician) for their timely assistance and co- operation. I am extremely thankful to my friendsDeepika, Khushboo and Rashmi for their timely help and co-operation. From the core of my heart, I owe my affectionate gratitude to my parents and my siblings; Nidhi, Saloni, Neha, and Nitin for theirinspiring attitude, constant encouragement, unfailing patience, endless affection, timely suggestions and constructive criticism throughout the pursuit of this study, without which it would have never been possible for me to reach this stage. With all my profound feelings, sentiments and gratitude, I would like to thanks Dr. Savita Singal, Professor, Department of Family Resource Management for her blessings, support and ever- ready help at each and every step. I express my indebtedness and deep sense of gratitude to her from the core of my heart. I gratefully acknowledge the support, whole hearted help and co-operation provided by my dearest friends; Madhavi Chopra, Hemani Puri, Mamta Rana and Suman Sodhi in my difficult times during my research work.It would be wrong if I forget to thank Hoshiyar Singh, Lab Assistantfor his timely help. My sincere thanks to all of them, whom I am not recalling this moment, who helped me in any way during my research work. Last but not the least, I once again thank my parents and my family members for their encouragement andmotivation at every step. Place: Hisar (Vandana) Date:January, 2016 CONTENTS Chapter No. Description Page(s) No. I INTRODUCTION 1-3 II REVIEW OF LITERATURE 4-13 III MATERIALAND METHODS 14-33 IV RESULTS 34-71 V DISCUSSION 72-88 VI SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION 89-94 BIBLIOGRAPHY i-ix ANNEXURE I-VI LIST OF TABLES Table Description Page(s) No. No. 3.1 List of plants selected for the present study 16 3.2 Fresh and dried parts ofselected plants 19 3.3 Dry powder obtained after grinding plant material 19 3.4 Values of EExI used in the calculation of SPF 21 3.5 Range of variables tried foroptimization 23 3.6 The optimized conditions obtained 28 4.1 Preliminary data of theselected cotton fabrics 35 4.2 Effect of pre-treatment process on water absorbency of cotton fabrics 35 4.3 Qualitative phytochemical analysis ofhotmethanolic extract of plants 37 4.4 Comparative analysis of plant species 39 4.5 Antibacterial and UV protective property of control cotton fabrics 41 4.6 Optimization of concentration ofSyzygium cumini(L.) leaves extracton 41 the basis of antibacterial and UV protective properties of woven fabric 4.7 Optimization of concentration ofSyzygium cumini(L.) leaves extract on 42 the basis of antibacterial and UV protective properties of knitted fabric 4.8 Optimization of material to liquor ratio on the basis of antibacterial and 43 UV protective properties of woven fabric 4.9 Optimization of material to liquor ratio on the basis of antibacterial and 44 UV protective properties of knitted fabric 4.10 Optimization of concentration of resin cross linking agent on the basis 45 of antibacterial and UVprotective properties of woven fabric 4.11 Optimization of concentration of resin cross linking agent on the basis 45 of antibacterial and UV protective properties of knitted fabric 4.12 Optimization of concentration of magnesium chloride on the basis of 46 antibacterial and UV protective properties of woven fabric 4.13 Optimization of concentration of magnesium chloride on the basis of 47 antibacterial and UV protective properties of knitted fabric 4.14 Optimization of pH on the basis of antibacterial and UV protective 47 properties of woven fabric 4.15 Optimization of pH on the basis of antibacterial and UV protective 48 properties of knitted fabric 4.16 Optimization of treatment time for on the basis of antibacterial and UV 49 protectiveproperties of woven fabric 4.17 Optimization of treatment time on the basis of antibacterial and UV 49 protective properties of knitted fabric 4.18 Antibacterial and UV protective property of finished fabrics 51 4.19 Wash durability of finishedwoven fabric 53 4.20 Wash durability of finished knitted fabric 54 4.21 Geometrical properties of finished woven fabrics 55 4.22 Mechanical properties of finished woven fabrics 55 4.23 Comfort properties of finished woven fabrics 57 4.24 Comfortproperties of finished woven fabrics 58 4.25 Geometrical properties of finished knitted fabric 59 4.26 Mechanical properties of finished knitted fabrics 59 4.27 Comfort properties of finished knitted fabrics 61 4.28 Comfort properties of finishedknitted fabrics 61 4.29 Effect of washing on geometrical properties of finished woven fabrics 63 4.30 Effect of washing on mechanical properties of finished woven fabric 63 4.31 Effect of washing on comfort properties of finished woven fabric 65 4.32 Effect of washing on comfort properties of finished woven fabric 65 4.33 Effect of washing on geometrical properties of finished knitted fabric 67 4.34 Effect of washing on mechanical properties of finished knitted fabric 67 4.35 Effect of washing oncomfort properties of finished knitted fabric 68 4.36 Effect of washing on comfort properties of finished knitted fabric 68 4.37 Consumers’ awareness regarding the performance finishes applied on 70 cotton fabrics 4.38 Consumers’ opinion regarding thedeveloped finished fabrics 71 LIST OF PLATES Plate Description No. Paramount Pick Glass 1 2 Round cutter 3 Quadrant balance 4 Paramount thickness tester 5 Soxhlet Process 6 Zone of inhibition ofS. aureusagainst different plant extracts 7 Zone of inhibition ofB. subtilisagainst different plant extracts 8 Control and finished cotton fabrics 9 Bacterial count on control and finished cotton fabrics 10 Quantitative bacterial analysis after number of wash cycles (finished woven fabric) 11 Quantitative bacterial analysis after number of wash cycles (finished woven fabric) 12 Quantitative bacterial analysis after number of wash cycles (finished knitted fabric) 13 Quantitative bacterial analysis after number of wash cycles (finished knitted fabric) LIST OFFIGURES Figure Description Page(s) No. No. 1 Yield obtained from plants under study 36 2 Ultraviolet absorption property of plant extracts 37 3 SPF value of plant extracts 38 4 Antibacterial activity of plant extracts 38 5 Optimisation of extraction time forSyzygium cumini(L.) leaves 40 6 Wash durability of antibacterial property of finished woven fabric 53 7 Wash durability of UV protective property of finished woven fabric 53 8 Wash durability of antibacterialproperty of finished knitted fabric 54 9 Wash durability of UV protective property of finished knitted fabric 54 10 Preferred fabric for summer wear by the respondents 69 11 Properties that attracts the respondents to preferred fabric 69 12 Consumers’preferences regarding the utility of the developed finished 71 fabrics for apparel use