DAVID TANIS MARKET COOKING 56980txt_rev_6-8.indd 1 6/12/17 10:53 AM 56980txt.indd 2 5/31/17 1:18 PM DAVID TANIS MARKET COOKI NG Recipes and Revelations Ingredient by Ingredient Photographs by Evan Sung ARTISAN New York | 56980txt.indd 3 5/31/17 1:18 PM Text copyright © 2017 by David Tanis Photographs copyright © 2017 by Evan Sung All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file. ISBN 978-1-57965-628-7 Cover and book design by James Casey Cover photographs by Evan Sung Artisan books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for premiums and sales promotions as well as for fund-raising or educational use. Special editions or book excerpts also can be created to specification. For details, contact the Special Sales Director at the address below, or send an e-mail to [email protected]. Published by Artisan A division of Workman Publishing Company Co., Inc. 225 Varick Street New York, NY 10014-4381 artisanbooks.com Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son, Limited Printed in China First printing, October 2017 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 56980txt.indd 4 5/31/17 1:18 PM Also by David Tanis A Platter of Figs Heart of the Artichoke One Good Dish 56980txt.indd 5 5/31/17 1:18 PM 56980txt.indd 6 5/31/17 1:18 PM CONTENTS Where Cooking Begins 9 ALLIUMS UNITED Garlic, Always 14 • Onions 40 • Leeks 52 Shallots 58 • Scallions 66 Mad for VEGETABLES Lettuces & Leaves 76 • Glorious Herbs 94 • Asparagus 114 Cucumbers 124 • Zucchini & Summer Squash 132 • Peas 140 Fennel 148 • Corn 158 • Greens 172 • Artichokes & Cardoons 184 Fresh Beans 196 • Dried Beans & Legumes 210 • Tomatoes 230 Sweet Peppers 250 • Eggplants 262 • Potatoes 270 • Beets 286 Parsnips 292 • Carrots 300 • Turnips 308 • Radishes 312 Celery & Celeriac 320 • Cauliflower 326 • Cabbage & Co. 336 Winter Squash 346 • Mushrooms 352 The Art of Seasoning Salt to Taste 368 • A Sampling of Fragrant Spices 370 • Hot Chiles 396 KITCHEN ESSENTIALS Oh, for a Good Egg 430 • Home-Cultured Dairy 436 A Pot of Rice 441 • Two Super-Simple Italian Pastas 444 Easy Asian Noodle Dishes 446 • A Few Baked Goods 450 Basic Broths 459 Lingering at the table 462 Acknowledgments 468 Index 469 56980txt_revised_6-22.indd 7 6/26/17 3:11 PM 56980txt.indd 8 5/31/17 1:19 PM WHERE COOKING BEGINS When I say “market cooking,” I’m referring to a common French term. If a French chef (or an acclaimed home cook) is asked which cuisine is his or her specialty, the response may well be “la cuisine du marché.” It would be my response too. It implies a philosophy as much as a style of cooking. Loosely translated, it means: I go to the market, see what looks best, and then decide what will go on the menu. The fresh ingredients provide inspiration for the meal. I don’t go with a fixed idea of what I want; I look for the most sparkly fish, the most tantalizing vegetables. I want them to be fresh, local, and seasonal—hardly a new concept, but a most admirable one. The best cooking I know depends upon it. It’s the age-old, traditional, normal way, even if today’s chefs and foodies lay claim to the farm-to- table moniker. A new generation is discovering the value of foraging, seeking out organic produce, and cooking over live fire. These are ancient practices. And for much of human history, sourcing local and seasonal produce was not a lifestyle choice—it was the only way to cook. A key aspect of market cooking is simplicity—letting the natural flavors of the ingredients shine. Delicious food doesn’t have to be complicated. When tomatoes are truly vine-ripened, a little salt and olive oil are all you need. A roasted head of garlic gives immediate satisfaction; freshly picked asparagus needs just a few minutes of steaming and a good vinaigrette. How did we stray so far from this place-based, seasonal approach? One-stop shopping at big-box stores may be convenient, but several stops at a couple of smaller shops may make a great difference. It means not settling for generic industrial eggs when a side trip from life’s busy thoroughfare will give you a better egg and a better meal. And perhaps a small adventure to boot. There really can be joy in marketing. 9 56980txt_revised_6-22.indd 9 6/26/17 3:11 PM