2 CHAPTER 1 3 CHAPTER 2 HISTORY OF GARMENTS To know about the evolution of anything/event/being is what is known as history. To understand the present and to plan the future, knowledge of the past is a must. Like other trades in the industry the garment industry also has a specific history - The history of how the art of cutting and tailoring evolved over the ages. Unlike many other trades this had a slow but steady evolution over time. In the beginning man was not a social and knowledgeable being, but as time passed his sense of social science developed and along with it came modern thoughts, knowledge and specific rules about eating, dressing up his whole philosophy towards life changed and so changed the way mankind dressed themselves to present their best features to society. INTRODUCTION TO GARMENTS The evolution of garments is associated with the different historic periods it passed through. 1. Ancient period 2. Agricultural period 3. Gupta period 4. Mughal period 5. The British age 6. Modern day. 1. Ancient period: In the beginning, residing in jungles and not being aware of his sense of shame, man used to roam around without any covering for his body. But as the earth started to warm/ get cool and mankind realized the differences in temperature, he started to use the bark of trees, leaves and other natural coverings to protect his body. But as soon as cultivation started and man discovered other means of clothing, this period came to an end. 2. Agricultural period: Cultivation of crops led to an increase in awareness of flax and cotton, which gave mankind the access to fibre and thread. 3. Gupta period: Knowledge of garments underwent a big change in this period. Cloth was being woven by this time but stitching was mainly done by hand. Hence loose garments were the norm of the day. There was no knowledge of button sewing/ button holing, hence tie-ups were used to hold garments together. The popular garments of this period were - lehenga choli, chogas, with tie-ups for women, lungis etc. 4. Mughal period: This was a period when India was being invaded by foreign armies. The influence that these armies brought had many effects on the overall social structure of the country, including garments. The art of weaving saw an increase in knowledge levels. The art of printing, use of zari and other decorative materials became popular. This was mainly a mughal influence as the mughals coming from colder regions were used to wearing tightly knit clothes. This was the age also known as the “Golden Age”. This period witnessed the maximum surge in knowledge levels across various fields. 5. British period: The defeat of the Mughals and the subsequent British rule brought along with it a revolutionary change in garment technology. They came with superior knowledge and were familiar with machines and technol- ogy. Slowly the influence took over the garment industry which also became mechanized as opposed to hand woven cloth. Mr. Wampun started the trend of a standardized method for taking measurements and drafting garments according to standard sizes. The methods introduced by Mr. Wampun form the basis of all modern day garment construction technology and hence he is known as the Father of garment technology. In the year 1866, Sir Charles – II was responsible for introducing the waist coat to the world of fashion. Soon Brugbell evolved this into the ‘long suit coat’. The British period also saw the introduction of specific sports related garments. 6. Modern day or present day: During the British rule mechanized weaving machines had firmly established themselves. Indian populace had also started spending a considerable amount of time and money bothering about the way they dressed and presented themselves to the world. Hence these machines made fabrics and clothes gained rapidly in popularity due to the ease of obtaining and the speed with which they could be made available. Looking at way modern day youngsters are becoming more and more conscious about the way they look, garment and fashion technology is surely one of the more important industries that will see tremendous growth in the years to come. 4 CHAPTER 3 KIT FOR PATTERN MAKING AND SEWING To work efficiently, the patternmaker must have the proper tools and supplies. The following tools should be part of the pattern making kit. 1. French Curves : For shaping armholes and necklines and for a variety of other shaping needs 2. Pencil & Sharpener : Necessary for pattern making. 3. Other Pencils & Pens : Use red and black coloured pencils to identify pattern changes. Use felt-tip pens in green and blue for pattern information. 4. Notcher : Cuts notches on pattern. Indicates guide marks such as seam.allowance, ease and dart intake. 5. Tracing Wheel : Transfers muslin pattern to paper and paper pattern to fabric 6. Straight Metre Scale : For measure / Measuring on fabric 7. Eraser : Non-dust eraser. 8. Weights : To hold pattern in place while making or tracing. Anything that.is heavy will do. 9. Marking Chalk : Used for marking fabric. 10. Tracing Paper : To transfer muslin pattern shapes or to make copies of original.patterns. 11. Paper Scissors : To cut paper patterns 12. Fabric Scissors : To cut fabrics 13. Triangle (Set Square) : Can be with or without measurements. 14. Hip Curve : Shapes hip, hem, elbows and lapels. 15. L Scale : For making the patterns 16. Inseam Curve : Shapes inseams 17. Measuring Tape : For measuring form or figure. 18. Oil Pins : To keep fabrics in place 19. Scotch Tape : To hold the fabric in place 20. Notebook : To make notes 21. Muslin Cloth : To check the pattern before making actual garment 22. Stapler with Pins 23. Board Pins 24. Cutting Table 25. Hand Punch : Punches holes for storing patterns 26. Compass : For drawing circles and arcs 27. Pattern Paper Kit for Sewing 1. Bobbin 2. Machine Sewing Needles 3. Hand Sewing Needles 4. Thimble 5. Seam Opener 6. Thread 7. Oil Pins 8. Measuring Tape 9. Marking Chalk 10. Fabric Scissors 11. Pinking Shears 5 CHAPTER 4 BASIC STITCHING TOOLS PICTURE HEADINGS Hand Machine, Foot Machine, Ordinary scissors, Shears, Marking chalk, Thimble, Hand needles, cruel needle, darning needle, hand needles. 6 BASIC STICHING TOOLS PICTURE HEADINGS Lshape scale, pin cushion, measuring tape, electric iron, tracing wheel, cutting wheel, thread, Dummy, pressing board, French curve, shaping scale. 7 CHAPTER 5 BASIC STITCHES To stitch a beautiful garment various steps have to be undertaken. After taking measurements and cutting the cloth accordingly, we need to stitch the various pieces together with the help of different types of stitches. Attaching two or more pieces of cloth together with the help of a needle and thread, by taking the threaded needle up and down through two pieces of cloth is what forms a stitch. Care should be taken to thread only a requisite amount of thread through the needle so that it does not tangle at the time of forming stitches. Like any other profession, tailoring also has some basic rules and tenets following which is an absolute must, and following are some of these rules: It is necessary to have knowledge about basic stitches before proceeding to construct a garment because: a) To make cut pieces of fabric into a garment one has to attach them with the help of stitches like basting. b) There are various types of fabric available in the market today. To be able to stitch all of them successfully, we need to hold them together temporarily. For e.g. Nylon cloth, silks etc. c) At times the basic stitches are used to give a neat finish to the garment like hemming. TYPES OF STITCHES TEMPORARY STITCHES Temporary stitches are those that are used to loosely attach two pieces of cloth to ensure that pieces fit together, darts are appearing at the right points. These stitches are opened out after stitching the garment. These also help to keep pieces in places while being stitched. These are of various types, like: Basting stitch: This is used to join two pieces of cloth together. This helps to keep slippery material in a straight line together while stitching. Method: Basting is done using a single thread. After threading the needle with an appropriate length of thread, the needle is taken in and out of the two pieces of cloth at some distance, throughout the required length. 1a. Even basting: All stitches are of equal length. This is achieved by taking an equal quantity of thread for the upward as well as downward stitch, at equal distances. 1b. Uneven basting: All the stitches are at varying distance but of the same length, i.e. the length of thread taken for upward and downward stitch is the same but at different distance from each other. 1c. Zigzag basting: When the cloth is slippery or a lining cloth is to be attached, then this zigzag stitch is used to keep the two pieces together. 2. THREAD MARKS: This is a type of temporary stitch, which is removed after the garment is stitched. This is used in situations where you cannot use a pencil or chalk, to mark the cloth. Sewed in a very loose manner, one stitch is small, and the next one larger, Used mainly on garments where many trials etc are required before final fitting. It is usually made with a double thread, but is always made on a double layered cloth. The stitches are adjoining to each other. Made in a loose manner, the needle is taken out from a determined distance and then again inserted in the same position and then the second stitch taken with a certain looseness in the thread 8 PERMANENT STITCHES 1. HEMMING: Used on almost every garment. Can be replaced by a simple running stitch also, but to enhance the beauty of a garment, hemming is used as a most important stitch. This is almost invisible on the right side of the garment and as very small stitches on the wrong side. Method: As single thread is put in the needle and a very small margin of the cloth is taken or a single strand taken from the turned in surface. The needle is passed through the single strand and through the surface of the cloth to give a neat edge and finishing touch. Used on sleeves, neck, skirts etc. 2. SLIP HEM: Similar to simple hemming but the stitches are taken at a little distant from each other. It’s usually used on slippery materials like silk, nylon etc. Method: As the name signifies, this stitch is similar to hemming but in a more lateral (slipping) position. Used to finish cuffs, necklines etc. 3. NARROW HEM: Stitches taken very close together. Usually to finish men’s garments like shirts, coats etc. It is considered to be very strong. Method: Stitches are put very close together using a single thread. The turned in part is firmly stitched in place using this method of taking the needle in and out of the turned in and rest of the garment. 4. BLIND HEM: As the name suggests this stitch is almost invisible to the naked eye. It has to be done with great care to give a neat finish. It is used mainly in men’s wear. Method: The turned in part is so closely stitched to the main body of the garment so as to take only one strand of thread at a time giving it almost an invisible feel. 5. ROLLED HEM: Used on fine materials. Edging of saris, edges of rills, puff sleeves etc are finished using rolled hem. Method : Similar to simple hemming but instead of taking a straight band of cloth as the trend in portion a small edge is rolled between the thumb and forefinger and the stitch is put on the inside surface. 6. CIRCULAR HEM: A type of hem only, but used on bias cut cloth. When one needs to turn a straight edge on a bias cloth, it is difficult to do so, that is when this stitch comes in handy. Used on umbrella cut frocks etc. when the edge of the garment is always cut on bias. Method: Bias cut cloth is once turned inside used. The amount of cloth to be turned is turned and a temporary stitch is put in loosely. The thread is then pulled a little to give small gathers. The gathers are then spread out and then hemmed into place. 7. FINE RUNNING STITCH: One can see only fine dots of this stitch from the right side of the garment. Used mainly for finishing fine garments like sari edges. Method: The needle is taken out from a predetermined distance. The place from where the needle comes out, then determines the point from where a single strand of thread is picked up for the next stitch. The shape of the garment has to be kept in mind while unraveling this stitch 9 8. PADDING STITCH: Used to set layers of cloth. It is used mainly in coats. Method: Put at an angle this stitch resembles a temporary stitch. The first line is taken at a certain angle and in the next line the angle is in the opposite direction. The stitch seems like it is standing up. 9. SAARJOO: Used in materials where the strands of cloth come out. The garment is not stitched in these cases. Used in tricot trousers etc. This stitch is usually not opened. It is used to keep allowance in garments. Method: Used with a single thread in the needle. The needle is taken out at an angle. Stitches are taken at some distance from each other and kept loose. You should keep in mind that the thread does not come out at the time of pulling the thread. 10. BACK STITCH: Used to attach two pieces of cloth together, by using a handmade stitch. It has been used since the time when the machine was not yet in invented. This is believed to have greater flexibility and is very strong. This stitch can also be used easily on a bias cloth. Most important use is on churidar pajamas, the stitch is different from its right and wrong side. Method: A crease is created on the edge of the two pieces of cloth that need to be joined together. A small margin is taken on top and bottom and small stitches taken close together. 11. BUTTON HOLE: Of utmost importance in the tailoring trade, as it is used on almost all types of garments – ladies, men’s and children. There is a need to keep an opening somewhere on the garment for ease of wearing and taking off. Most of such openings are closed with the help of buttonhole stitches. The button hole is always made on the top portion. The buttonhole stitch is used to finish the button hole. It is made on two or more layers of cloth. The button hole has a slight curve on one side known as the fan and an edge on the other known as the bar. Method: First choose the distance between each button hole. Then keeping the diameter of the button in mind, use the tip of a scissor to cut holes in the cloth. To ensure that no, loose strands come out finish the edge with a temporary stitch. Always cut the button hole in the direction of the grain line. Then using a single thread finish the edge with a buttonhole stitch keeping a little extra tension on the ‘fan’ side to make a kind of chain stitch is then pressed down once the buttonhole is finished. 12. HOOK EYE: An opening can be closed with other methods apart from a button and buttonhole. One of these is the hook and eye. There are hooks of different sizes available to suit different purposes and garments like trousers or blouses. The hook is usually fixed half a point behind the edge of the belt. This is fixed using the buttonhole stitch. It is fixed from two edges below and one point above like a bow. The simple hooks are best used with an eye made from thread by hand, using a button hole stitch. The big hooks used for trousers usually come with a ready made eye of metal which is also affixed using a buttonhole stitch. 13. PRESS BUTTONS: These are metal buttons with one part having a hole and the other a nail to fit into the hole. The nail part is always put on the top and the one with the depression on the bottom. This is also affixed using the button hole stitch. 14. BUTTONS: The various types of buttons available in the market differ in that they have different number of holes – 2 or 4. The method for fixing them remains the same. The spot where the button needs to be fixed is determined and then the needle is taken out first from one and then the other to properly fix the button. There should be a little looseness in the stitch so that the button can be easily passed through the button hole. 10 Parts of Sewing Machine: It is important for the beginner to know and recognize the different parts of the sewing machine. Arm : The horizontal upper part of the head which has the mechanism for handling upper thread and driving the needle. Back Stitch Lever : A lever located at the lower right hand side of the machine and its basic function is to form the stitches in reverse direction. Bed : The lower portion of the machine i.e. stands under which the mechanism for handling lower thread including the shuttle and feed are mounted. Bobbin : A small metal spool that holds the lower thread supply. Bobbin Case : The metal case that holds the bobbin. It has the tension spring that controls the pressure on the bobbin thread. Bobbin Winder : It is a simple mechanism for winding the thread on the bobbin and is located at the right hand side near the wheel. Feed Dog : A small metal device under the presser foot which has teeth which carries the material along as it is stitched. It moves the material forward, by one stitch length, after each stitch has been drawn. Hand Wheel : Handel is located on the right side of the machine. It is driven by hand or belt in the domestic achine and with the help of belt in the industrial machine. It controls the movement of the needle bar and drives the machine. Hand Lifter : To lift the presser foot by hand. Head : The upper part of the machine above the stand. It is a complete sewing machine without the bed. Knee Lifter : To life the presser foot by knee. Needle Bar : A bar at the end of which the needle is attached. Pan : It is the metal pan under the head that catches oil, lint, broken threads. Presser Foot : A foot which is used to hold the fabric while stitching. It is detachable and different types of foot are available for different functions e.g. zipper foot, plastic foot. Presser Foot Lifter : A lever attached to the presser bar to lift up & down the presser foot. Shuttle : A device that carries the needle thread around the bobbin and forms the lock on the lock stitch. Stitch Regulator : The length of the stitches is determined by graduation marks on the stitch regulating screw. As you increase the numbers on regulator the number of stitches per inch increases i.e. the size of the stitches decreases and vice-versa. Tension Regulator : It is a mechanism which controls the tension of upper thread and the quality of stitches. The tension of the thread is adjusted with the help of spring and nut which controls the pressure on the disc. Thread Stand or Spool Pin : It is a metal rod fitted either on top or on side of the stand to hold the thread spool. Thread Take Up Lever : A bar/lever which is located above the tension regulator. It moves up and down. It has a hole through which the thread passes. It feeds thread to the needle and it also tightens loop formed and locks it. Throat Plate : A semicircular disc with a hole to allow needle to pass through it and also has marking in some cases which are used as guidelines while stitching. TAKING CARE OF SEWING MACHINE CHAPTER 6 11 Straight Stitch Machine Shuttle System 12 COMMON MACHINE PROBLEMS The student needs to understand the common problems that may be there while sewing and should be able to rectify these as they are common and irritating and slow down the sewing process. A person operating the machine should be able to rectify these and solve the problems. 1. Bobbin 1. Does not wind : � Make sure the thread is wrapped around the bobbin in proper direction. � Check to see if bobbin has been placed properly in the winder. � The rubber ring might be worn out and needs to be replaced. 2. Winds unevenly : � The thread may not be inserted in the thread guide. � You may be running the machine too fast. � The tension spring may need adjustment. 3. The Needle moves up and down during winding : � Needle has not been disengaged 2. Fabric 1. Layers feed unevenly : � Presser foot pressure incorrect � May need to stitch slowly � The fabric may be very light weight use tissue paper while stitching 2. Does not feed in straight line : � Presser foot may be loose or bent � Pressure of the presser foot may be incorrect � Needle may be bent � There may be a defect in the machine feed � You may be pushing or pulling the fabric 3. Puckers when stitched : � Many fabrics pucker when stitch in a single layer � The stitch length may be not in correct relation to the fabric type � If the fabric is sheer or light weight, the presser foot tension may need to be regulated � Thread may be too thick � Needle may be coarse � Bobbin thread may be uneven � Stitch tension may be unbalanced � Feed dog may be worn out 4. Shows feed mark on the underside : � Presser foot pressure may be too heavy. You may need to put tissue paper between the fabric and the feed � The feed may be damaged or set too high 5. Fabric is damaged or holes around the stitches : � Needle may be blunt or too coarse or wrong type for the fabric � Check for the nick in the throat plate, foot or feed 3. Machine Motor does not run : 1. Cord is not plugged. 2. Power stitch off. 3. Knee or foot accelerator may be jammed or improperly attached to power source. 13 Motor runs but hand wheel does not turn : • Thread or lint may be caught or tangled in the bobbin case area. Motor runs, hand wheel turns, but needle does not move : 1. The needle may have been disengaged for bobbin winding and not tightened back to sewing position 2. If needle has been tightened but still does not move, the motor belt is slipping because it is loose or worn. Motor, hand wheel and needle moves but fabric does not feed : 1. Make sure the presser foot is down 2. Check the stitch length regulator 3. The pressure regulator may at the least/ light pressure. If fabric is heavy, more pressure may be necessary for fabric to feed. 4. The feed dog may be in the lowered or “down” position Motor, hand wheel, needle and fabric moves but no stitch is formed : 1. Thread may have come out of the needle. 2. Needle may be threaded in the wrong direction. 3. Needle may be inserted backward or may not be pushed all the way up into the clamp. 4. Needle may be the wrong length for the machine. 5. Machine may be threaded incorrectly 6. Bobbin may be empty 7. Bobbin and / or case may be inserted incorrectly 8. The timing of the machine might be off Runs sluggishly : 1. Bobbin winder may still be engaged 2. Knee or foot control might be improperly positioned 3. Machine may be in need of oiling and / or cleaning Runs noisily : 1. Machine probably needs oiling and / or cleaning 2. The needle could be bent and hitting against foot or throat plate 3. Bobbin and / or case may not be tight enough 4. Bobbin may be almost out of thread. Will not stitch in reverse : 1. If machine is very old, it may not have this capability 2. If it is a recent model, check the stitch control. If may be set for “stretch stitch” or “buttonhole”, sometimes these stitches cannot be reversed manually. 4. Needle Unthreads : 1. Insufficient thread may have been pulled through the needle before the seam was started 2. Machine may be out of top thread Breaks : 1. You may be using the incorrect presser foot 2. Presser foot and / or throat plate may be loose or improperly fastened. 3. Needle might have become bent and hit the presser foot and /or throat plate 4. Needle may be incorrectly inserted 5. Needle might be too fine for the fabric being sewed and for the job being done 6. You may have pulled too hard on fabric while stitching 7. Check machine settings. 8. Needle may be defective 14 5. Stitches Are uneven lengths : 1. You might be pushing or pulling the fabric too much 2. Pressure on the presser foot could be either too light or too heavy for the fabric 3. There could be lint or other clog between the teeth of the feed dog Have loops between them : 1. If the loops are large, the machine is improperly threaded 2. If loops are small tensions are unbalanced 3. Bobbin may be wound unevenly 4. There may not be enough pressure to hold the fabric taut during stitch formation Skip here and there : 1. Needle may be blunt or bent 2. Needle may be inserted backward or it might not be all the way up into the clamp 3. There may be insufficient pressure on the presser foot 4. Throat plate may be wrong for the purpose 5. You may be stitching at an uneven speed 6. While stitching, you may be pulling too hard on the fabric 6. Thread Needle thread breaks : 1. Usually this is caused by the needle being inserted backward or threaded backward 2. Thread may be caught in the spool notch or it could be wrapped around the spindle 3. There may be a rough or burred place on a thread guide 4. The needle may be blunt 5. Needle may not be all the way up into the clamp 6. Needle may be too fine for the thread, causing it to fray-often the case with silk buttonhole twist Bobbin thread breaks : 1. Bobbin case may not be threaded properly and / or the case not inserted properly 2. Bobbin may be too full 3. Check for dirt or clog in the bobbin case 4. Bobbin tension may be too tight Bobbin thread cannot be raised through hole in throat plate : 1. Bobbin case may be improperly threaded. 2. It may not have been properly inserted 15 CHAPTER 7 IMPORTANT TERMS FOR CUTTING & TAILORING 1. BALANCE MARKS: Marks made on the various pieces of the garment to maintain a balance while stitching. Sometimes the pieces not marked may not be matched properly at the time of stitching giving the garment an odd shape. Used mainly to keep a balance when joining knees, waist, hip etc. A balanced garment fits well and hence it is essential to use these marks, even when one has become a master at tailoring. 2. BALANCE NOTCHES: These are small cuts made at the time of tracing the pattern. Made mainly to mark out pleats, darts, overlapping. Also used at times to mark the side seams, waist, and knees. 3. BALANCE MARKING: Points marked with the help of a tracing wheel are known as balance marks. Sometimes one needs to put the marks on the right side of the fabric, putting these marks with tailor chalk or a marking pencil, may spoil the cloth. That is when the tracing wheel is used. The tracing wheel can also be used to mark various layers of cloth at one go – for pocket positions etc. 4. BAGGING: Garments that take the shape of a bag like slacks, pyjamas, which are tight at the knee or elbow. These are always in the danger of the crease opening at the elbow/knee joint due to movement. A small bag like pouch is formed at these places, if the garment is too tight. This is known as bagging. 5. BRIDLE: When the lapel turns outwards in a collar, like in a coat the large fold is cut on bias, and to avoid it flapping a straight tape is attached at the edge. This is known as the bridle. 6. LAPEL: When the collar hangs separately from the over lapping and is folded outwards, it is known as lapel. 7. CUT ON DOUBLE: When the fabric is folded before cutting, it is known as cut on double or on fold. Most parts of the garment –front, sleeve, back are cut in this manner. 8. LAYING: The fabric is first out spread out properly, without any creases or folds and only then is the pattern traced out and the fabric cut. The laying of the fabric properly is known as laying. 9. LAYOUT: To put the different pattern pieces on the cloth is known as layout. This helps in checking if the cloth is enough or if a patterned cloth has different pieces with matching pattern. 10. CLOSING: Means attaching a means of closing an opening – it could be a hook, a button, a zip or a cord. 11. FACING: Finishing an edge of the garment- neckline, armhole, or other opening by attaching a separate piece of cloth (of same or different fabric). This piece is cut in the same shape as that of the opening. 12. FALSE FACING: A broad strip of cloth attached to an edge and turned inside to finish the edge instead of hemming is known as false facing. A thinner strip of cloth being attached is known as false hem. 13. DART: Without spoiling the shape of the garment, and in order to give a perfect fit, a small amount of cloth is folded and stitched with a single strand till the other end. This process is called putting a dart. It is used at various places on the garment like bust dart, waist dart etc. to give fitting or fullness to shape. 14. FISH DART: This is put at the back in lower body garments like shorts, trousers, slacks. Its shape is like a fish, hence the name. It takes an angular shape after being put straight for some distance. 15. PLEATS: A fold taken from the inside of a garment and held in place by a stitch is known as a pleat. These are of many types like straight pleats, inverted pleats etc. These are used either as a design element or to provide fullness or fitting. 16. TUCKS: Folding the cloth a little from the right side and stitching in a straight line is known as putting a tuck. This is also used to enhance the beauty of the garment or to provide a better fit. If these stitched lines appear of the thickness of a pin then they are known as pin tucks. 17. VENT: A type of closing which is stitched at the top but open at the bottom. Generally put at the back. The two pieces of the garment being held together by this seem to overlap each other. The stitch is not visible from outside. 18. SLIT: A type of opening which does not have any overlapping. Used in women’s garments like shirts, skirts etc. 19. WELT: Also known as fich. This is a broad band on the pocket of a coat. This is stitched from both sides. A pocket which has the stitch on the outside is used on shorts, trousers, slacks, T-shirts etc. 20. OPENING: The space kept in the garment for ease of wearing and taking off, generally without any overlapping is known as opening. 16 21. PLACKET: An opening finished by keeping an overlap is known as a placket. Examples are a frock back or a kurta neck. 22. STAND OF COLLAR: When the collar is put against the garment and the place where the fold happens-the part that comes beneath is known as stand of collar. This is the part that touches the neck. 23. FALL OF COLLAR: The part of collar that is attached above the band or the broad part that falls below or outwards from the band or stand is known as the fall of collar. 24. FLAIR: These are of two types – Straight and umbrella cut. The straight flair is attached at the waist by the help of gathers, tucks or pleats and the part that is left loose is called the flair. Also used to describe lower body garments which have a big opening at the bottom and no demarcation for knees. 25. GATHERING: Means to put pleats or to gather a piece of cloth by putting a loose running stitch and then pulling the thread. Look good when used on puff sleeves, skirts, ladies garments and children’s garments according to fashion. 26. JETTING: When an extra piece of cloth is attached to give strength to a pocket and then to hide this extra piece, another piece of the same fabric as that of the main garment is attached, then it is known as Jetting. 27. BUTTON STAND: The piece of band on top of which a button is affixed is known as button stand. 28. BUTTON HOLE: The opening made through which a button can be passed is known as button-hole. 29. POCKET STAY: The straight tape attached to the inside of a pocket opening to keep it upright is known as pocket stay. This tape is the straight selvedge side. 30. YOKE: The part of the garment from the waist upwards, given a particular shape like round, square, triangular and attached separately is known as yoke. 31. LINING: An extra cloth attached under the main garment is known as lining. Used mainly under transparent materials, lining gives the garment extra strength as well as finishing. 32. INTER LINING: An extra layer put in between the main garment and the lining is known as inter lining. For e.g. Buckram, Tetron etc. 33. SHEARING: To shorten a part of a garment, without cutting off the extra piece of material, one can create folds on the top half and then hide them by attaching a trim like lace, piping, or a cord. This process is known as shearing. 34. SMOCKING: Creating a design on a piece of cloth by first putting loose stitches in straight lines with the help of a graph paper, pulling gently on the threads and then embroidering over the gathers thus created, is known as smocking. Used as a decorative stitch. 35. HONEY COMB: A variation of smocking. The amount of material required for this is a little less than that for smocking. The space between stitches in smocking is a little less, whereas here the distances are greater. Embroi- dering over the gathers to hold them in place is done here also. This takes the shape of a honey comb upon finishing. 36. SCYE UP AND SCYE LOWER: Used particularly for coat sleeves. The point where the armhole attaches to the sleeves to maintain the correct balance of a sleeve is known as scye. The point at the back is known as scye up and the front part is known as scye lower. 37. INLAYS: The extra cloth kept after the looseness in a garment is known as inlays. This helps in increasing the size of the garment if so required. . 38. TURNING: The extra margin kept at the edges for turning in and finishing the garment is known as turning. 39. SEAM ALLOWANCE: The margin kept for stitching the garment is known as seam allowance. This means that after drafting the neck, armhole, waist and chest, about 4cm margin is kept and then another line drawn which is the stitching guide – this is known as the seam allowance. 40. MARGIN: The extra cloth kept apart from the turning is known as margin. This helps to increase the length of a garment. 41. FORE PITCH: The notch kept in the forward arm hole before joining a coat sleeve is known as fore pitch.