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Other Marshall Cavendish Offices: Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited. 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196 Marshall Cavendish Ltd. 5th Floor, 32–38 Saffron Hill, London EC1N 8FH, UK Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited ISBN 10: 0-7614-5502-7 eISBN : 978 981 4435 91 8 Please contact the publisher for the Library of Congress catalog number Printed in China by Everbest Printing Co Ltd Photo Credits: All black and white photos from the author except page xii (Corel Stock Photo Library), page 13 (Japan Tourism Bureau). Colour photos from Getty Images pages a, i, j–k; Photolibrary pages b–c, d–e, f–g, h, l–m, n–o, p Cover photo: Corbis All illustrations by TRIGG ABOUT THE SERIES Culture shock is a state of disorientation that can come over anyone who has been thrust into unknown surroundings, away from one’s comfort zone. CultureShock! is a series of trusted and reputed guides which has, for decades, been helping expatriates and long-term visitors to cushion the impact of culture shock whenever they move to a new country. Written by people who have lived in the country and experienced culture shock themselves, the authors share all the information necessary for anyone to cope with these feelings of disorientation more effectively. The guides are written in a style that is easy to read and covers a range of topics that will arm readers with enough advice, hints and tips to make their lives as normal as possible again. Each book is structured in the same manner. It begins with the first impressions that visitors will have of that city or country. To understand a culture, one must first understand the people—where they came from, who they are, the values and traditions they live by, as well as their customs and etiquette. This is covered in the first half of the book. Then on with the practical aspects—how to settle in with the greatest of ease. Authors walk readers through how to find accommodation, get the utilities and telecommunications up and running, enrol the children in school and keep in the pink of health. But that’s not all. Once the essentials are out of the way, venture out and try the food, enjoy more of the culture and travel to other areas. Then be immersed in the language of the country before discovering more about the business side of things. To round off, snippets of basic information are offered before readers are ‘tested’ on customs and etiquette of the country. Useful words and phrases, a comprehensive resource guide and list of books for further research are also included for easy reference. CONTENTS Foreword Acknowledgements Map of Japan Map of Tokyo Chapter 1 First impressions Chapter 2 Overview of Japanese Land and History Geography Tokyo in Japanese History Religion and Beliefs Chapter 3 Tokyoites Stereotypes and Reality Traditional Events in Tokyo Japanese Cultural Values Chapter 4 Socialising With the Locals Communicating Effectively with Japanese People Social Customs and Etiquette Chapter 5 Settling In Visa Requirements Arranging Housing Things to Take and Not to Take Pets Raising Children in Tokyo Handling Finances Shopping Taking Care of Your Health Transportation in Tokyo Exploring Tokyo on Foot Chapter 6 Food and Entertaining Japanised Foods Japanese Food Challenges for Foreigners Table Etiquette Shopping for Food Food Selections Eating Out Chapter 7 Exploring Tokyo and Beyond Places to Visit in Tokyo Travelling Beyond Tokyo One-Day Trips from Tokyo Experiencing Japanese Culture Chapter 8 Learning the Language Overview of the Japanese Language Understanding Non-verbal Cues Chapter 9 Doing Business in Japan Business Etiquette The Japanese Work Force Japanese Business Styles Challenges for Foreigners Job Searches in Tokyo Chapter 10 Tokyo At A Glance Culture Quiz Do’s and Don’ts Glossary Resource Guide Further Reading About the Author Index FOREWORD Tokyo is a place of continuous renewal. Its landscape has been altered several times during the course of its history by fire, war, or natural disaster—but the people of Tokyo (‘Tokyoites’) have turned each occasion into an opportunity for rebirth, and the metropolis has bounced back bigger and better than before. Even during the two centuries when Japan was technically closed off to foreigners and travel within the country was somewhat restricted, people of the capital eagerly adopted new trends in thought, technology and fashion to which they were exposed. Today, Tokyoites are still attentive to changing trends and eager to latch onto them. To fall behind would be unbearable. However, they are apt to grow weary of new trends quickly and constantly seek new targets for their attention. What are the origins of this ability to recover from adversity and this appetite and passion for things new? Perhaps they come from deep within ancient Japanese traditions. Shinto, the country’s indigenous belief system, offers the idea that destruction and rebuilding are rites of purification, like a cleansing of the soul. Buddhism, a religion introduced to Japan from China, offers the idea that life is transitory, so people should not get too attached to the things of everyday life. To this day, Tokyoites appreciate traditional but fleeting seasonal events, and participate in a variety of rituals and celebrations with ancient roots —all with the latest technical gadgets tucked away in their pockets. This contradicting, unique character of the society can be better experienced by people who live in Tokyo than by those who simply visit the city. Residents can easily see what is the leading trend. People dress according to the latest fashion style; ‘in’ restaurants and entertainment spots come and go; the latest electronic gadgets rapidly sell off the shelves; popular actors and actresses appear in every magazine and television show. When one trend changes, everyone shifts to the new one. At the same time, enjoyment of seasonal events gives rhythm to people’s lives and participation in traditional rituals and celebrations connects them with the past. In time, newcomers learn to appreciate both the subtle and not-so-subtle contrasts of this ambivalent culture; this appreciation is a sure sign that Tokyo has become home. AUTHOR’S NOTES As you read through this book, please note the following: Throughout the book, Japanese words are written in romaji (Japanese words transcribed into the English alphabet; also known as ‘romanisation’). The prices mentioned in this book are estimates and are generally stated in Japanese yen. Many of the resources listed in this book include website addresses, all of which have English language pages. If you go to these websites and encounter a Japanese language home page, though, please be patient—look for a little icon that says ‘English’ and click on it. Every effort has been made to ascertain that the information in this book is accurate; my apologies if you find that places and websites mentioned have changed or disappeared. This is just a fact of life in this ever-changing metropolis that is at the same time very international and Japanese. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This book could not have been completed without the help and support of many people. Especially, I owe a great deal to the following people and would like to express my sincere appreciation to them. First and foremost, I would like to thank Lynn Witham, who was courageous enough to suggest me as an author for this book, and who supported me in every step of the creation process from drafting to editing to completion. We discussed ideas openly, and she provided continuous moral support. This would never have come to pass without her. I received much support from Kay Jones who edited several drafts and offered valuable feedback on many topics. Together with Anthony Pan, she enhanced the focus and readability of the sections on history and religion. Tony also gave generously of his time for reviewing and editing the final drafts. Their knowledge and insights about Japanese culture were just impressive. Other fellow interculturalists based in the San Francisco area and who have extensive experience with Japan offered ideas and insights about the unique features of Tokyo. Masahiro Shintani, a Tokyoite himself, was always gracious in answering questions about deep issues, and Chris Brannen shared thoughts and impressions. Dave Dickey and others at Meridian Resources were particularly good sports in offering their observations and intuition. Kristy Buckingham is owed great thanks for being the first reader of the draft and for diligently editing what now seems like just a rough sketch. As for the Japanese support crew, I am especially grateful to Masazumi Akita who kept me informed on current events and trends in Tokyo and who introduced me to a wonderful photographer, Akiko Watanabe. Watanabe-san wandered around every corner of Tokyo in search of good photo opportunities, and the results of her efforts are included in this book. Shu Ikkatai offered some photographs as well, which were much appreciated. In addition, I wish to express gratitude to the expatriates in Tokyo who shared with me their experiences of living in the city. Their comments and stories added depth to the content of the book. Thanks are due to friends and friends of friends who referred me to these expatriates. Hosts of other people were gracious in suggesting ideas, giving information and encouraging me in many ways. Finally, I would like to thank my family for