目錄 Contents 004 前 言Foreword 030 d.魚湯底Fish Stock 031 e.湯底的貯藏Storage of Stock 第一課　西廚入門Start Cooking 031 f.油麵糊/麵撈Types of Roux 008 I. 廚房分工與權責 032 VII. 醬汁與調味 Division of Labor Precious Sauces and Dressings 008 I.1 西廚職位分工結構表 032 VII.1 不同醬汁的烹煮法 Classic Kitchen Organization Assorted Sauces Chart 032 a法式奶白汁Béhamel Sauce 009 I.2 廚房員工的權責 033 b高湯白汁Velouté Sauce Job Description 034 c基本黃汁 010 II. 餐單設計Menu Designing Basic Brown Sauce 010 II.1 設計餐單的考慮因素 035 VII.2 不同的調味醬 Factors Affecting Menu Design Assorted Dressing 012 II.2 餐牌之種類Types of Menu 035 a牛油醬汁-荷蘭汁 014 III. 西餐的基本烹調方法 Butter Sauce-Basic Hollandaise Basic Cooking Methods of 036 b蛋黃醬汁Mayonnaise Western Cuisine 037 c油醋汁Vinaigrette 第二課　廚房裏的秘密Cooking Basics 038 VIII. 麵糰與麵條的製作 Making Pasta Dough, Rolling 018 I. 工具概覽 and Cutting Pasta Cooking Tools Galleries 038 a麵糰製作 020 I.1 廚刀分類 Making Pasta Dough Classification of Knives 039 b麵條製作 021 I.2 基本刀章法 Rolling and Cutting Pasta Basic Cutting Skills 040 IX. 馬鈴薯蓉與中東粗麥粉 022 II. 材料的選購與烹調關係 Mashed Potatoes & Cous Good Ingredients, Better 040 a馬鈴薯蓉Mashed Potatoes 023 III. 葡萄酒作為烹煮用途 041 b粗麥粉Cous cous Cook with Grape Wine 024 IV. 食材概覽 Grains, Pasta & Vegetables 第三課　繁忙的廚房料理製作 Cooking Workshops 024 IV.1 穀物與麵概覽 Grains and Pasta Galleries I. 湯 Delicious Soups 025 IV.2 蔬菜概覽 044 牛肉清湯Beef Consomm Vegetables Galleries 046 法國洋葱湯French Onion Soup 026 V. 香草與香料的運用 048 甘筍茸湯Puréed Carrot Soup The Use of Herbs & Spices 026 V.1 西餐的基本烹調方法 050 海鮮大燴配蒜頭甜椒醬 Basic Cooking Methods of Creole Bouillabaisse with Rouille Western Cuisine Sauce 028 VI. 基本湯底Basic Stocks 052 英式海鮮周打湯 England Seafood Chowder 028 a. 香草束Bouquet Garni 028 b.白湯底White Stock 029 c.黃湯底Brown Stock II. 沙律及蔬菜類 098 釀雞卷Stuffed Chicken Roll Refreshing Salads and 100 紅酒燴雞Coq au Vin Vegetables 102 雞肝醬Chicken Liver Pâte 054 凱撒沙律Caesar Salad 104 鑊煎鴨胸Pan-fried Duck Breast 056 牛油果香橙沙律 Avocado and Orange Salad 106 野米鵝肝蘑菇釀鵪鶉 058 新式吞拿魚沙律 Boned Quail, Filled with Wild Rice, Foie Gras and Mushroom Modern Salad Nicoise 060 鳳尾蝦喀嗲Shrimp Cocktail VI. 肉類 Meat (Beef, Veal, Lamb and 062 法式燴菜Zesty Ratatouille Pork) 064 菠菜醬糕Spinach Timbale 108 韃靼牛肉Beef Steak Tartare III. 飯，榖物和麵 110 烤牛柳 Rice, Grains and Pasta Roasting Beef Tenderloin 066 腰果香飯Cashew-rice Pilaf 112 焗威靈頓牛柳 068 白菌意大利飯 Mushroom Risotto Baked Beef Wellington 070 西班牙海鮮飯 114 意式煎小牛肉Saltimbocca Spanish Paella with 116 燴牛仔膝Osso Buco Chicken,Prawn and Squid 118 皇冠焗羊排Crown Roast of Lamb 072 玉米糕Polenta 120 釀烤羊髀 074 肉醬意大利粉 Stuffed and Roasting Leg of Spaghetti Bolognese Lamb 076 香草醬扁麵 122 牛奶燴豬排Braising Pork in Milk Linguine with Pesto Sauce VII. 甜品類 Desserts 078 煙肉蛋黃汁螺絲粉 Fusilli Carbonara 124 紅酒蜜桃Peach in Red Wine 126 雜莓糖霜蛋白籃 IV. 魚貝海鮮 Fish and Seafood Berries on Meringue Nest 080 香草醃三文魚 128 法式燉蛋Crème Brûlée Gravadlax with Mustard Dill Sauce 130 朱古力慕士 082 清蒸魚辮Steaming Fish Plaits Brown Chocolate Mousse 132 焗梳芙厘Hot Soufflé 084 炭烤全魚Barbecuing Whole Fish 134 法式水果撻Tarte Tatin 086 紙包焗魚 Baking en Papillote 136 西柚碎雪 088 脆炸魚柳 Iced Coulis of Grapefruit-making Deep-frying Fish in Batter Granita 090 美式煎三文魚 138 脆米紙焗釀蘋果Apple Croustade Broiling Cajun-style Salmon Steak 140 凍忌廉芝士餅 092 龍蝦 “米多”Lobster Thermidor Chilled Cream Cheese Cake 094 香草蒜茸牛油焗青口 142 常用術語 Common Terminology Mussels with Garlic Herb Butter 143 換算表Convention Table V. 家禽野味 Poultry and Game 144 鳴謝Acknowledgements 096 烤全雞 Roasting a Whole Chicken 前 言 我從小便愛烹調料理，只是多 在家中幫忙，不過從幫忙的過程 中，卻給了我很多基本烹調概念 及知識，奠定了日後在學習料理 上的良好基礎。 回顧過去23年的烹調歲月，主要從事於西式 料理的行業，期間也會處理一些東南亞料理，從中得以窺 見各種地方菜式的不同風格及烹調技巧，因而融入到自身做菜特色 之中。 在學徒時代，學習的過程比較辛苦，不過現在回憶起來，仍然令我 十分懷念…第一次調理湯汁，第一次燴肉；印象難忘，有無數的試練失敗， 也有成功的喜悅，回味再三。事實上，從前的師傅廚師大都不會詳細地教你如何烹調， 往往只會責罵不斷，為了學有所成，我只好偷偷從旁學習，由於沒有得到詳細解釋及 仔細教導，只能“知其形而不知其髓”，所以經常招致失敗。不過把失敗的經驗累積下 來的結果，卻構成了個人的烹調風格。 製作西式料理並不太困難，它會有既定的基礎原理：材料與工具認識；基本湯底 和醬汁；餐單編排和食品製作，當然份量換算也是不容忽視的。所以必須徹底的學會 基本烹調原理作基礎，才可把菜式做好。但是沒有把基本菜式弄好，又心多多地學做 其他菜式，只會弄巧反拙，這樣絕不能使你的手藝有所進步；相反地，假如你能精通 基本的烹調原理，日後只要稍加融匯貫通，便能夠製作出變化多端的佳餚。我的忠告： 不要只顧學習新奇花招，必須把基本功學得徹底才是最重要。 謹此希望結集過往烹調經驗，直接告訴大家在西式料理上的基本技巧及秘訣，藉 此幫助各位讀者瞭解和認識西式料理。 鄭雅正 Foreword Cooking has been my interest since I was a child. Mostly I cooked at home during my childhood. I learned cooking concepts and knowledge from the process of cooking. These concepts and knowledge gave me a good foundation of cooking. Looking back to the past 23 years of my chef's days, I have been mainly devoting myself to the western cooking. Sometimes I will cook the South East Asian cuisines. In order to get chances of handling cross-countries cuisines, I found different countries had their own cooking style and methods. These findings benefit me to incite my cooking ideas and promote my cooking skills. Recalling on my apprentice's periods, the learning process was hard but it was over. I miss it very much, especially at the first time I cooked soup and stewed meat. In fact, some cooking experiences were successful but some were not. No matter how good or bad they were, those experiences had deep impressions on my memory. I enjoyed very much. Indeed, chefs in old days did not like teaching the apprentices how to cook the food in detail, in addition, they often scolded young cooks only. Those aggressive apprentices or young cooks who wanted to become chefs at the future would secretly learn from watching besides the chefs. Although the cooks could learn the cooking skills by watching, they did not completely understand. The cooking results were frequently failures because of lack of detailed explanations and delicated teaching from the chefs. Accumulating a series of failing results, I learn more and more that make me build up my cooking style. It is not difficult to cook the western cuisines if you have a good knowledge of their foundation concepts. They are knowledges of ingredients and tools, basic soups and sauces, menu design and food process. You should also pay much attention to convertible measurements. Apparently, you should learn cooking theories thoroughly as a foundation if you want to cook perfect dishes. If you cannot manage your basic dishes very well, your attempt to cook another countries* cuisine will not be successful. Your cooking skills will not improve and you will not be a professional. On the contrary, if you are familiar with the principles of cooking, you can generate more cooking ideas on handling cuisines smartly. You can also create or change the dishes by your own idea. For my advice, "do not focus on changing dishes only. It is more important to learn the foundation of cooking skills than focus on dishes variations." This book collects my past cooking experiences. It directly states how to cook the western cuisines by mastering principles and tips of cooking. The aim is to let the readers understand more about the western cooking. Julian Cheng 課 一 第 西 廚 入 門 S t a r t C o o k i n g I. 廚房分工與權責 Division of Labor 西式廚房的分工相當仔細，現介紹一個標準的西廚分工結構，讓年青 廚師有個初步認知的概念。 Labor of division in western kitchen is detailed. In order to let young cooks have a brief concept of a classic kitchen, its structure is stated as below: I.1 西廚職位分工結構表 Classic Kitchen Organization Chart 行政總廚 Executive Chef 助理主廚 Sous Chef 部門主廚 Chefs de partie (Section Head) 1 4 7 汁醬廚師 菜料理廚師 凍肉、頭盤 The Saucier The Entremetier 料理廚師 The Garde Manger 2 5 8 湯水廚師 燒燴料理廚師 甜品及包類廚師 The Potager The Rotisseur The Patissier 3 6 9 魚料理廚師 煎炸料理廚師 替位廚師 The Poissoner The Grillardin The Tournant 10 助理廚師 Commis Cook 8 I.2 廚房員工的權責 Job Description 行政總廚：是廚房的靈魂人物，負責所有對外及對內之工作，監控整個廚房的運作、設計餐單、 控制成本、與餐廳經理緊密聯繫等。 助理主廚：負責協助總廚日常之運作，監控所有生產過程、出品品質及員工培訓等。 部門主廚：負責各部門之主要日常運作，特別是生產管理。 1. 汁醬廚師：主要負責製作汁醬、湯底、熱頭盤及炒類料理。 2. 湯水廚師：主要負責湯底及湯類之料理製作。 3. 魚料理廚師：主要負責魚類及海鮮類之料理。 4. 菜料理廚師：負責蔬菜、澱粉質類如薯仔及蛋類之料理製作。 5. 燒燴料理廚師：負責燒製之肉類，先燒後燴之料理及肉汁之製作。 6. 煎炸料理廚師：負責所有煎或炸之肉類及海鮮料理製作。 7. 凍肉、頭盤料理廚師：主要負責所有凍肉及菜之料理，包括沙律、沙律汁、凍醬糕、凍頭盤及 自助餐之頭盤料理製作。 8. 甜品及包類廚師：負責所有甜點及麵包類之製作。 9. 替位廚師：負責當其他廚師休息時代替其位置。 10. 助理廚師：初級廚師主要負責協助各部門之廚師製作料理及搬運貨品、清潔地方及用具等工作。 * 大多數的小型酒店及餐廳之中，因成本、人力及物力的關係，當然不能有如此精細的分工，故大多以一人身兼數職 來運作。 Executive Chef: As the soul of a kitchen, the executive chef is responsible for managing internal and external affairs, monitoring the operation of the whole kitchen, designing menus, controlling the cost and keeping close contact with restaurant's managers. Sous Chef: Responsible for helping the executive chef in daily operation, monitoring every production process and quality of products as well as training of staff. Chef de Partie: Responsible for managing each department's daily operation, especially the production. 1) The Saucier: Responsible for making sauces, stocks, hot appetizers and sauté dishes. 2) The Potager: Responsible for making stock and producing dishes from broth. 3) The Poissoner: Responsible for producing dishes of fish and seafood. 4) The Entremetier: Responsible for producing dishes of vegetables, starch (like potatoes) and egg. 99 5) The Rotisseur: Responsible for making roast meat, dishes which are first roasted, and then braised as well as meat sauce. 6) The Grillardin: Responsible for pan-frying and deep-frying meat and seafood. 7) The Garde Manger: Responsible for all cold meat, vegetables dishes,including making salad, salad sauce, cold appetizer and appetizer for buffet. 8) The Patissier: Responsible for making desserts and bread. 9) The Tournant: When the chefs are on leave, the tournant will replace them. 10) Commis Cooks: A junior cook who is responsible for helping the chef of each department to prepare dishes, transport goods, clean the place and tools. * For many motels or restaurants, division of labor is not carried out in such a detailed way because of cost, manpower and resources. In many cases, one has to take different posts at the same time. II. 餐單設計 Menu Designing II.1 設計餐單的考慮因素 Factors Affecting Menu Design 餐單的主要目的是吸引及帶領人客去認識餐廳，從而選擇他們所想要 的食品。要設計一份理想的餐單，當中所需之技巧頗不簡單，以下為 一些須依從的原則： 1. 餐牌必須達到人客所要求：令人客滿意乃整個進餐過程之首要目標，故此餐牌必需迎合人客 的要求。 2. 餐單必須能跟隨市場之方向：市場方向為大勢之所趨，即為大多數人客所想要之食品。 3. 餐單必須達至品質之要求：餐單之設計必須根據餐廳本身之等級定位，由級數及價錢來訂定 食品之品質，當然出品亦必須達到一定的水平。 4. 餐單之設計必須符合成本之要求：每間餐廳均需為其食品作成本定位，成本額通常為銷售額 之20-40%不等，視乎餐廳之定位等級，因為不同等級的餐廳所使用之材料亦大大不同。 5. 餐單必須真確：即餐單中所列出之食品必須為真實用料，例如指明為新鮮的便需為新鮮之食 品，不可使用雪藏品代替。 6. 出品項目必須為能力所及：意指所有之出品必須考慮到廚房員工能否做到，樓面員工又能否達 到奉客時之要求，例如你不能要求普通餐廳之員工出品法國頂級料理。 10